Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2018 i Getaway

Dawn, Sodwana Bay. A tractor towed our Zodiac through the casuarinas to the beach. I kitted up with a gang of 10 other divers and we were given a briefing by the dive master. Life jackets on, we dragged the inflatable dinghy into the surf. Engines revved and we slithered aboard, jamming toes into the foot straps. ‘Hang on tight, boys!’ shouted our skipper. The boat powered through lines of white water, leaping off the bigger crests, propellers noisily chewing the air. We passed a pair of surfers in the back line and our skipper shouted at them: ‘That’s glorified chumming, boys, bobbing about like that in tiger-shark alley!’ Ha-ha, not funny. It was a 20-minute journey to Seven Mile Reef, cruising just behind the breakers along a beautiful, forested…

We were travelling in pouring rain on the dirt roads somewhere between Jozini and Mabibi in our Land Cruiser. Not one of those fancy new ones you see on magazine covers but a 1984 fj62 station wagon – no air con, no airbags, no rooftop tent, standard except for a winch and snorkel. We were roughing it like in the old days. The one piece of technology we thought we must have was the main reason for us being hopelessly lost. The GPS insisted on taking roads that did not exist. In short, it had more trust in our Cruiser than I had! In the end the GPS identified a navigable route, the rain stopped and we found ourselves in the most beautiful forest. We drove in a tunnel of…

NAMIBIA Don’t you think this would make an eye-catching flag for Namibia? The elegant gemsbok (or oryx) is their national animal and the unmistakable colour of the Sossusvlei dunes is one of our neighbour’s most striking sights. Flag or not, Sossusvlei is certainly an alluring destination for South Africans. Even now, in the height of summer, it’s not a bad place to be as the desert is cooled by a sprinkling of rain in the interior. To add to the attraction of the area, there’s a new lodge that’s sprouted from the desert sands and mimics the shape of the dunes (read about The Desert Grace on page 18). ČESKÝ KRUMLOV, CZECH REPUBLIC Lying in Bohemia’s deep south, Český Krumlov is one of the most picturesque towns you’ll ever chance…

FINALIST The Look Having been on many solo trips, I decided to join a photo safari with a tour company. We came across this hippo in the Chobe River watching us from a distance. With the great support systems installed on the boat, I was able to get a well-focused image, even with such a slow shutter speed. – By John Mullineux, Secunda Canon 7D MkII, Canon 500 f/4 (with converter), ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/200 sec FINALIST Throwing a Tantrum Elephants protect their calves on a 24-hour basis, but when they throw tantrums, as this little one was, they are mostly ignored by the herd. It’s part of their learning curve. It was a treat to watch this calf, at Spekboom Dam in Addo Elephant National Park, go on…

There are several thoroughbreds in the running for best luxury splurge, but the service at Schoone Oordt pips ’em at the post. It starts when you arrive. Guests are ushered to the bar in the Victorian manor house and offered a choice of hot or (homemade) cold beverages, sweet treats and savouries – part of the complementary afternoon tea; a great welcome after you’ve been on the road for a few hours. Then there’s your room (one of 10 dotted around the garden): a luxurious cocoon with every mod con, antique furnishings, a Victorian tub and large walk-in rain shower. The evening turndown reveals goose-down duvets and another delicious treat on your bedside table; in winter your fireplace will be lit. Breakfast is a three-course gourmet affair in the beautiful…

It’s the hosts that separate the good from the great, and Wim Lubbersen and Nicky Appelboom make Babette the latter. It’s a real haven with just three garden suites and one upstairs room, each with private entrance and patio or balcony. This means there’s not many people sharing the large and beautifully manicured garden and saltwater pool. There’s space to grow but Wim won’t – the idea is that each guest has a very personal experience, from route planning to wine-tasting suggestions, best biking trails to booking the right restaurant. Wim loves the region so much he has produced his own guide book; he’s also an experienced wildlife photographer who is happy to advise and show you the best spots. Picnic baskets and mountain bikes can be supplied on request.…

On a quiet residential street that traverses the highest point above town, Hilltop comprises eight options (four spacious rooms, two family suites and two houses) and is an ideal choice for those who prefer to stay in. Aside from the usual basics, you’re supplied with Swellendam canola oil, Worcestershire sauce, spices, plunger coffee etc. For R80 pp, breakfast ingredients can be supplied (eggs, bacon, yoghurt, muesli, fruit etc); staff take care of the dirty dishes. You can also pre-order heat-and-eat dinners from Lana Groenewald, the very welcoming manager, who also knows a lot about the area. These are prepared and delivered by a local caterer and are, by all accounts, delicious. All the accommodation has a kitchen and patio, Wi-Fi and TV, a choice of king or twin beds; some…

Day 1: Joburg to Magaliesburg DISTANCE 86km ALLOW 1½ hour Leave the city just after lunch on a Thursday, heading to Krugersdorp (we took Beyers Naude M5 to Drift Boulevard in Krugersdorp). Take the R24 to Magaliesburg and check in at Mount Grace Country House (1), where you can start winding down with a picnic or spa treatment. You can also choose to stay at Black Horse Estate (see Day 2) for two nights. Day 2: Magaliesburg to Skeerpoort and back DISTANCE 76km ALLOW 1½ hour It’s an early wake-up call for a hot-air balloon ride (2) – in summer, this means 4.45am. Transfers can be arranged, or take the R24 north out of Magaliesburg and turn right on the R560–the launch site in Skeerpoort is 15km away. Afterwards, return…

Table Mountain is a treasure trove of wild and wonderful walks. In fact, you could do a different hike on it every week of the year. Yet most of us stick to the same handful of well-trodden paths, little realising the adventure and beauty we’re missing out on – often just around the corner. Don’t get me wrong. Those old, familiar paths are a great introduction to the mountain, and you should definitely do them all. Just don’t stop there. Keep exploring. You may find that a love affair with this mountain becomes a lifelong passion that brings a bounty of bruises, barked shins and muddy bottoms. Oh yes, and boundless joy. Are you with me? Right, let’s get lost! 1 EXPLORER LEVEL SICK OF SKELETON GORGE? NOW TRY... Constantia…

GETTING THERE On the N2 from Durban, take the Hluhluwe off-ramp, go through town and take the R22 for 80km to Mbazwana. From here turn right off the R22; the Sodwana Bay National Park gate is 16km further. There are often animals on the roads so avoid driving after dark. WHEN TO GO Sodwana is a year-round diving destination – the water is always above 21˚C. November to April is great for mantas, ragged-tooth sharks and turtles; avoid the December holiday crush if you can. The Sodwana Bay Festival is in April. Sea conditions are best between May and June; catch the whale migration from June to October. NEED TO KNOW All divers pay R50 pp for a once-off permit to dive in the reserve, available from the post office…

Two hippos come crashing into a bar… It may sound like the start of a joke, but it really happened. The bar was at Shakawe River Lodge in northwestern Botswana, on the Kavango River. We’d arrived there after a marathon four-day drive from Cape Town and, as we stepped onto the deck of the lodge, we were greeted by a magnificent view of the broad, papyrus-fringed river – along with a sign warning guests not to interfere with ‘our hippopotamus’ roaming the lawn because, well, he is a hippo and therefore dangerous. Testimony to this was the skull of a small hippo bull he’d killed a couple of years before, now mounted at the lodge entrance. The story, according to our waiter, is that they came crashing through the bar…

KINGS WALDEN GARDEN MANOR This historic garden and century-old guest house overlooks the Letsitele Valley and the Drakensberg. Its famous lightning tree (above) stands out – legend has it the blue-gum was struck on the same night the owner’s wife passed away. 079-396-7830 MODJADJI CYCAD NATURE RESERVE Modjadji resembles a scene from Jurassic Park – some of the plants date back to the era of dinosaurs. Some cycads reach 13 metres, others grow in contorted clumps; the braai spots are enveloped by the flora. R20 pp. 015-311-7009 CHAMPION BAOBAB The Sunland Baobab toppled over in 2017, but it’s still a worthwhile drive north of town to see it. The tree is more than 1 000 years old. Before it fell, its trunk circumference was 33,63 metres and…

MELVILL & MOON THE KILI CARRY ON A stylish carry-on bag that conforms to airline requirements. For planes and boats and trains … styled for urban safaris, or otherwise. Portable, practical and simply does the job. Two side pockets useful for travel documents such as boarding passes. A carry strap and two generous pockets on each end. Available in sand, black and leather. Dimensions: Height: 28cmWidth: 23cmLength: 47cmR3 000 (Sand/Black) R5 400 (Leather)melvillandmoon.com ADVENTURE INC HYDRO FLASK Hydro Flask keeps your drinks icy cold on a hot sunny beach, or serves up a piping hot coffee in sub-zero temperatures. Even after driving to the trailhead and reaching the summit, you’ll still have ice and water while you enjoy the view. Hydro Flask will sit patiently at your camp chair with frosty cold…

Ken Barris Zambezi Region, page 90 Ken is a writer, retired academic, book critic and photographer. He has won various literary awards (sadly, none for cooking or photography). He recently spent three weeks driving 6 000 kilometres in the company of good friends from Cape Town to the Zambezi Region (previously named the Caprivi Strip), and the article he wrote for us is a reflection of the wetter part of it. Karl Beath Southern Drakensberg, page 84 Karl has been shooting mountain scenery since about 1991 when the Berg bug first bit. Since then, he has traversed much of it, chasing the dragon’s tail in search of good light and new trails. Last summer, he focused on the tarns (small lakes) of the Southern Drakensberg. He also met some strange…

The Desert Grace BETWEEN SOLITAIRE AND SESRIEM, NAMIBIA A modern lodge in an ancient place, the newest member of the Gondwana Collection is trendy, eco-friendly and just around the corner from world-famous Sossusvlei. Inspired by Old Hollywood glamour and the pink hues of the Namib, The Desert Grace has 24 bungalows decorated with a whole lot of style, and a communal area that features an irresistible gelato and pizza bar. You’d be forgiven for thinking you were in a chic, urban hotel, but the view outside is unmistakable: an endless vista of sand and sky. The Desert Grace not only blends beautifully into the surroundings but also honours them with its eco-friendly structure. The position of the rooms echoes the sloping wave-shapes of the nearby dunes, but the landscape inspiration…

Floating away Fan Yang has spent his life perfecting the science of bubble making. He has several Guinness World Records, including the biggest bubble (2,3m circumference), largest bubble wall (47,4m wide) and putting 100 people inside a bubble. During his Billions Bubble Show, audiences can expect to be blown away by a fantastical combination of lights, lasers, smoke effects and bubbles – small ones, enormous ones, bubbles within bubbles, bouncing, floating and dancing bubbles… Kids will be able to make their own giant bubbles in the play ring, or buy Fan Yang’s Ultimate Bubble Toy and secret formula. Three shows a day at the Sun Arena in Pretoria. Tickets from R120 pp. 20 December–7 January. webtickets.co.za Let there be light The new Spier Light Art Show will…

Take it yourself On overcast or dreary days, slow down the shutter speed to capture dramatic movement in clouds or water. EQUIPMENT You will need a strong, sturdy tripod – you can’t take long exposures without one. Use a wide-angle lens and a set of neutral density filters (see Know Your Stuff on the next page). Instead of the camera’s built-in timer, you can use a cable release to trigger the shutter remotely. A rain cover for your camera and waterproof poncho for you and your camera bag will keep things dry in mist or drizzle. SETTINGS Set the ISO at 100 or, better still, drop it to 50 if your camera allows. Use a small aperture, between f/11 and f/18. Both these settings will enable you to get the…

THIS YEAR’S PRIZE The first prize is worth more than R100 000! The winner and a partner are in for a spectacular trip (and with new Canon photographic gear) to one of Africa’s most photogenic destinations: Madagascar. They will fly to Nosy Be and stay at Sakatia Lodge on Sakatia Island for a quintessential island holiday. Arranged by MadagasCaT Charters & Travel, specialists in all travel to Nosy Be. Flights courtesy of Airlink. THE 2019 GETAWAY GALLERY You can still submit your images! All entries from now on are automatically entered into the 2019 Getaway Gallery Competition – watch this space for details on the prizes. Email your images (about 1MB in size, maximum five per month) with your name and contact details to…

Wow. This is a jaw-dropping location – at the end of a dirt track that peters out amid pines carpeting the lower slopes of a perpendicular mountain, two bungalows overlook a small dam. There’s no sound but twittering birds and tumbling water. Marilouise van der Merwe has totally transformed the log cabins, opening them up to the glorious views of the Hermitage Valley, cladding them in river stone and furnishing them with contemporary and upcycled furniture; Fazenda could easily grace the pages of a design magazine. Marilouise is also the creative force behind De Companjie, one of the top restaurants in Swellendam, and her guests (she also has three rooms in town) get a discount on meals there. But why tear yourself away from heaven? No TV or Wi-Fi; this…

1 Mount Grace Country House & Spa. Picnics from R320 pp; a 30-minute back, neck and shoulder massage is R425 pp, including access to the flotation pool. MTB trails and bikes are free for guests and day visitors. From R1 298 pp B&B. There are two restaurants on site. 014-577-5600, marriott.com 2 Bill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safari. Rise with the sun, with a magnificent view over the Magaliesberg. Flights last about an hour. R2 595 pp, including buffet breakfast with bubbly. 011-705-3201 3 Barbus Haven. Flyfishing Adventures is a founding member of the Magalies River Conservancy. Enjoy the outdoors and learn how to fly fish in their small dam (experienced anglers can fish in the river). An intro to fly-fishing is 2,5 hours and costs R400 pp, gear hire from…

We’d heard high-pitched squeaks throughout our 50-minute dive on Five Mile Reef. But the large cetacean shape looming above us during our regulation decompression stop took us completely by surprise. Almost choking on my regulator, I grabbed the fin of every diver I could reach and gesticulated wildly upwards. A 30-ton humpback whale on its annual migration was crossing our path. Fortunately my son Liam, who had the GoPro, created two seconds of footage to immortalise our once-in-a-lifetime encounter, before the whale moved effortlessly into the gloomy blue ocean. For the Rogers family ‘the whale at the safety stop’ is now the crowning glory in a set of legendary tales acquired during more than 30 dives, and told with glee around fires and dinner tables. Our humpback features alongside other…

tjörn, tjern, tjärn or tärn. The word is derived from the Old Norse language and means a small natural lake, often in a forest or with vegetation surrounding or protruding into the water. In time, it came to refer to any mountain lake, as ‘tarn’ was commonly used for all ponds in the upland areas of northern England. From there it migrated to the Drakensberg, particularly the Mkhomazi Wilderness Area, probably courtesy of early English adventurers hankering for the Lake District back home. Northern hemisphere tarns are mostly the result of snow and ice accumulating in hollows during various Ice Ages. The afromontane tarns in the Drakensberg are not the result of classic glacial ice action, but what exactly formed them seems to be a bit of a mystery. The…

GETTING THERE Northwestern Botswana can be accessed via Gaborone and Ghanzi on the Trans-Kalahari highway (A2 and A3) or from Maun. Take the A35 to Shakawe from the turn-off at Sehithwa. Cross via the Mohembo border post into Namibia and straight into Bwabwata National Park. Cross the Kavango River at Divundu to get onto the regional highway (B8). Ngoma border post takes you back into Botswana and Chobe Park. NEED TO KNOW The road between Ghanzi and Shakawe was in bad condition; consider coming from northern Namibia into the Zambezi Region or from Kasane in the east. Border crossings were quick and painless; a vehicle permit is R200 into Namibia and R238 into Botswana (keep it as you may be asked for it when you exit). We drove two Land…

Campmaster Ultralight hammock R169, campmaster.co.za Supporting a weight of 110kg, this hammock (260cm x 150cm) comfortably cocoons one person. The ropes are included and it folds easily into the small bag attached to the hammock. Packed, it weighs just 0,5kg. Vango inflatable sofa R995, picnicspot.co.za Take your lounge with you on your next camping mission with this comfortable couch that can be used outside. Made from tough PVC material, the flocked surface is soft and feels like suede. It takes a maximum load of 250kg, and seats two happy campers. AfriTrail Ezy-Pitch 3 pop-up tent R999, takealot.com It’s easy to love the convenience of a pop-up tent (especially if you’ve experienced tent-erecting trauma in the past), and the Ezy-Pitch 3 is…

GRAB A COFFEE ‘As far as I know, we’re the only cafe in Newlands serving Rosetta Roastery coffee, and I truly believe they roast the best in Cape Town. We select each new batch to suit our ice cream and complement our menu.’ LOCAL CUISINE ‘El Burro never disappoints. Grab a seat by the window or in the courtyard and order the ceviche starter, the build-your-own fish tacos and a horchata (a Mexican rice milk) to drink. The new small-plates menu, exclusive to the Newlands branch, is the perfect way to graze your way through their menu in one meal!’ 37A Dean Street, 021-201-1421 CO-OWNER OF THE CREAMERY ‘We make and sell handmade, natural and seasonal ice creams. Newlands is our flagship cafe – when we opened in 2013, it…

The Thornybush Collection comprises 11 luxury game lodges in Thornybush Nature Reserve, one in northern Sabi Sands and a new tented camp on the banks of the dry Monwana River, due to open in March 2019. The 27-kilometre eastern boundary fence between Thornybush and Timbavati was removed in 2017 and the reserve is now open to Greater Kruger, resulting in a much wider variety of game to spot. thornybush.co.za The prize includes: a two-night stay with all meals, tea, coffee, snacks, dawn & dusk safaris in open game vehicles and optional bushveld walks. How to enter Fill in the entry form for Thornybush online at getaway.co.za/competitions . Entries close on 31 December 2018. TERMS AND CONDITIONS The prize is valid from 15…

HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 20 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Swellendam, she created a longlist of 29 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT I FOUND ABOUT ACCOMMODATION HERE • Variety. The ideal halfway stop on the road between Cape Town and the Garden Route, and at the crossroads into the interior (for Route 62 and the Klein Karoo), Swellendam has an extremely well-developed offering across all…

When English poet William Blake wrote that ‘great things are done when men and mountains meet’, I suspect he was referring to the respite mountains offer from daily menial tasks that gnaw at our zeal for life. And so it was with some awe that my eyes were drawn to the Magaliesberg, bathed in ethereal afternoon light. My friend Mvuyo and I were on a short break from the city and as we drew nearer, there was something about the vast landscape that served as a reminder that I am but a mere speck of dust in the grandeur of the cosmos. This humbling thought seemed to dissolve my problems and kick-start the trip on the desired note. Our first stop was Mount Grace Country House, where we could shrug…

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHS We admire their majesty, are in awe of the lengths they go to survive and sometimes fear their ferocity, but nothing makes us feel quite as warm and fuzzy inside as when animals fall off their proverbial perch. Recognising this, wildlife photographers Tom Sullam and Paul Joyson-Hicks founded the Comedy Wildlife Photography competition four years ago. These photos by some of the finalists will make you LOL but the competition has a serious purpose – to raise awareness of the plight of the disappearing comedians of the natural world, while working alongside the Born Free Foundation. For more photos and to find out who the winner is, see comedywildlifephoto.com.…

STUDY YOUR ROUTE Do this beforehand, but carry your map and copy of the route description with you. It’s best to take the more technical route on the way up and find an easier way down. Allow more than enough time to complete the entire route in daylight. Let someone know your intended route and expected return time. IF YOU GET LOST, DON’T PANIC Don’t carry on blindly or take a short cut. As soon as you realise you’re off route, backtrack carefully to the last place you knew you were on the right path, and try again. If you still can’t find the way safely, turn around and head home. There’s less shame in an unfinished exploration than having to be rescued. CHOOSE YOUR GROUP Wilderness Search & Rescue…

GETTING THERE From Underberg, take the signposted gravel roads to Bushman’s Nek border post and park at the KZN wildlife office, where you fill in the mountain-rescue register. Hike through or around the border post (you could take passports, but are technically always in SA). Cross over the Ngwangwane River on your left and then follow the trail in a south-westerly direction. You’ll reach Tarn Cave and its surrounding tarns along this trail up Bushman’s Pass, or by continuing along the Ngwangwane River Valley. Both are very scenic, but the first route is much less steep. WHEN TO GO Summer guarantees water in the tarns, but also afternoon thunderstorms. In autumn, there may be less water but the weather is stable and the grasses are changing colour. In spring, snow…

gentle because there’s nothing aggressive about Bali – the physical effect it has is instantaneous. From the moment I stepped out of the doors of Denpasar’s Ngurah Rai Airport, I was hit by a wave of heat and humidity so intense it was palpable. In that moment I realised how completely unequipped I was for the climate, having parted ways with my luggage somewhere in Dubai. Late at night, with no shops open and clad in plane-friendly jeans and sneakers, it was the first of many lessons in the Indonesian art of going with the flow. Despite the discomfort, I couldn’t help but be swept up in the sheer tropicality of my surroundings – something I had gone specifically in search of. Deciding to escape the South African winter and…

The true meaning is basket,’ Andre Thomas replied when I asked him about his hometown’s name. ‘It comes from the Northern Sotho word tsana, and it’s pretty obvious when you look at the location – Tzaneen lies nestled in a hamper of hills.’ We were tucked away on a secluded patio at the Fairview Hotel; Marinda had ordered us a bottle of red wine while we watched the monkeys playing in the canopy above. Andre knows a lot about Tzaneen’s name. As a lawyer, he was involved in an interdict against its proposed name change to Mark Shope in the early 2000s. The lawsuit came to a halt with a march supported by folks from all walks of life who gathered to keep a name which isn’t completely African, nor…

GETTING THERE It’s 354km from Pretoria; take the N1 to Polokwane and the R71 via Haenertsburg and Magoebaskloof. STAY HERE The Fairview Collection is a 26ha estate with a choice of rooms, chalets, luxury suites and spa. From R880 pp sharing B&B. 015-307-2679, fairviewtzaneen.co.za Granny Dot’s Country Spot overlooks the hills of the Agatha farming district. There are six double rooms, all with patios. R475 pp sharing B&B. 015-307-5149, grannydots.co.za Christie’s Inn is a guest house in town, offering 10 en-suite rooms with views of the garden and pool. R595 pp sharing B&B. 015-306-0243, christiesinn.com DO THIS See African pole carvings at the Tzaneen Museum – it has a large collection and is crammed full of artefacts from the local Tsonga and North Sotho people. 015-004-0923 Enjoy a canopy tour…

Companion Kids LED animal headlamp R150, outdoorwarehouse.co.za A useful tool for animal-loving youngsters, this basic headlamp flashes or shines at the press of a button. The strap is adjustable and you can choose between a lion, dog, frog or monkey. Aerobie orbiter boomerang R199, capeunionmart.co.za Get practising your throws – this boomerang flies about 28 metres and will come back with a little fine tuning. Bend the corners up slightly and find an open area to let rip. If you’re on the beach, remember it doesn’t float. Quiddler R299, hamleys.co.za Think of this as Scrabble with cards. Players form words from the cards they draw and count the points allotted to each card as they go. There are two bonuses in…