Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2019 i Getaway

February is, we are reliably told, the month of romance. I’m not very partial to Valentine’s Day and don’t subscribe to the hype. But I do have a mildly romantic streak and make some sort of effort each year. Not necessarily roses and bubbly, but a gesture nonetheless. However, being a travel journalist means that more often than not I’m far from home on Valentine’s Day. Some years ago, 14 February found fellow journalist Khumo Ntoane and me in a dusty Karoo dorp. We booked a table at a posh(ish) restaurant … and you could have heard a pin drop when we entered. We may well have been the first ‘mixed couple’ to grace the establishment. Patrons couldn’t help staring, and the waitrons treated us as though we’d just stepped…

I love Land Rovers and travelling to remote destinations. The two naturally go hand-in-hand, although not without the occasional hiccup. Highlands Mountain Retreat at Golden Gate lured us in with the promise of dramatic views, a cosy cabin and scenic hikes. The national park did not disappoint, and we thoroughly enjoyed our short stay tucked away in the mountains. Our vehicle, however, a Land Rover Defender christened ‘George’, enjoyed it more than we did. When the time came for us to leave, the regal vehicle simply refused to start. Without warning, the car-remote’s battery ran out and, thanks to Land Rover’s ‘intelligent’ design, there was no way of disarming the immobiliser without the electronic gadget! We still had a four-hour drive ahead  of us and a plane to catch. We…

Tintswalo at Boulders SIMON’S TOWN, WESTERN CAPE I admit there’s a feeling of delicious superiority that comes with staying at Boulders. While the tourist masses visiting the penguin colony pass by on the boardwalk, and stay for maybe half an hour before getting back on their buses, you, the ‘local’, can take a quick shot-left through a garden gate and up to your villa for tea. In the morning, before said masses arrive, you can pop down to the beach – around 630 steps (I counted) in the opposite direction – for a swim in relative privacy, and to stake your claim on the small patch of sand, because if the weather’s good you’ll want to stay a while at this most charming of Cape Town’s beaches. In contrast to…

WHAT Samango Slackpacking Trail WHERE Midlands, KwaZulu-Natal WHO Melanie van Zyl ‘The R103 is not the only Midlands Meander,’ said Julia Colvin as we – a group of 10 hikers of various backgrounds and fitness levels – sat together in the shade, digging into her delicious homemade trail mix. The R103 is the well-trodden Midlands Meander route of crafts, cuisine and country comforts, but there’s a different kind of saunter on offer in these misty hills. A luxury hike, the Samango Trail, is Julia’s latest offering from her travel company, Spekboom Tours. Inspired by the big impact this little succulent plant has on its environment, Howick-local Julia specialises in making adventure a little easier in (and on) KwaZulu-Natal. Working closely with the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Biodiversity Stewardship Programme, five landowners…

FINALIST Nocturnal Drink On the morning game drive, at Zimanga Game Reserve in KZN, the resident lion pride was lying in a drainage line about 600 metres away from the Umgodi overnight hide. I knew there was a good chance they’d come to the waterhole later, especially as they had a kill with them. Sure enough, soon after sunset, the female arrived for a drink. The thrill of photographing a lioness just a few metres away from me at eye level was incredible. – By Seyms Brugger, Johannesburg Nikon D810, Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/2.8, 1/160 sec Flamingo Ballerinas On a misty morning in Walvis Bay, the sky and mirror-smooth ocean were virtually indistinguishable. The result was an unbroken grey tablet on which flamingoes glided in choreographed unison in…

Cuban food, with its many layers of flavours, is a tribute to the people, their passion and their past. The country has had a complicated history, and through it all food kept families and communities together – even when there wasn’t much to go around. One thing that’s never been in short supply is rum, which pairs perfectly with Cuban cigars. The Menu MAIN A sandwich so delicious it made its way across the sea to Miami. DESSERT A Spanish-inspired custard with a tropical twist. DRINK Could it be anything other than a Mojito? Cubano Sandwich with Chunky Herb Oil Originally eaten by workers in the cigar factories of Havana, who call it a mixto , this robust sandwich is packed with flavour. Cubans eat plantains instead…

1 The Baobab Restaurant This eatery overlooks the Glencoe tree and specialises in pancakes. Try a cinnamon and sugar (R25), venison (R60) or banana-and-caramel (R50) treat. 082-332-7887 2 Zvakanaka Farm Just outside Louis Trichardt, Zvakanaka has secluded cottages and a campsite. We stayed in Madala’s Cottage, which has an outside bath, pool and indoor fireplace. Birds are abundant and the hosts are lovely. Camp for R150 pp; cottages cost R425 pp. 084-400-4595, zka.co.za 3 Pafuri Section, Kruger National Park There are some impressive baobabs between the Pafuri Gate and the Luvuvhu River. Park entry is R93 pp; there’s a shop, restaurant and petrol station at Punda Maria Rest Camp, 76km from the gate. Campsites from R243 pp (max six) and bungalows from R370 pp. sanparks.org 4 Pafuri River Camp Lantern-lit…

ZIETSIES Take in a cabaret, old chums Singer, actress and Brixton community stalwart Elzabé Zietsman hosts a legendary dinner and show at her guest house, Zietsies, on 14 February every year. As Valentine’s Day falls on a Thursday this year, there’ll be a repeat on the weekend to cater for those couples who prefer not to razzle-dazzle on a school night. There’s also the option to stay over. Zietsies’ dining area, The Glass Cage, has floor-to-ceiling windows to showcase the incredible views over the north of Joburg from the hillside. Although Elzabé is happy to cater for special diets (vegan and so on) the menu is decided on the day depending on what’s fresh and available. DO IT To comply with bylaws (The Glass Cage is not a restaurant) Zietsies…

My first visit to Mauritius was with a friend, on the cheap and on a whim. He had frequent-flyer miles to burn. I had wanderlust. Days were leisurely, spent mostly on the beach, exploring Grand Baie and Pereybere in the north. At night? It was low season and in 2012 few venues stayed open late in this popular tourist hotspot. Even my three-star-hotel bar closed early, so I was confined in my floor-to-ceiling-coral-pink room with three channels of French TV for entertainment. My travelling companion went out on dates he’d set up online. I had no idea. His saving grace, however, was his willingness to drive me south for a day at Shanti Maurice, where we enjoyed one of the most unforgettable spa treatments ever. That was my first taste…

Lisa Johnston Johannesburg, page 74 Lisa loves (almost) everything about Joburg, from the grand to the gritty to creative pursuits in between. She recently co-authored Secret Johannesburg with Claire Bell, which sparked her continuing mission to learn more about this fascinating city and the stories behind it. By scratching beneath the surface of its history and places of interest, she’s met interesting people and unearthed treasures that are well worth exploring. Jazz Kuschke Mossel Bay, page 104 Jazz is a Garden Route-based fly fisherman disguised as a freelance wordsmith. He began his career at Getaway as a photojournalist, where he spent four years turning every assignment into a fishing trip, before joining Men’s Health as a features writer. After a stint in the crazy-paced world of sports marketing, he went…

I booked a weekend away at Lake Eland in KwaZulu-Natal to celebrate my husband’s birthday. When we arrived, we spotted a pregnant zebra, which is not that unusual, but we were especially privileged to witness her giving birth. We watched the calf pop out just his head, and saw the sac breaking following the ejection of embryonic fluids. It was touching to see the inherent instinct of other zebras to congregate and protect the mother and her child. She stood up almost immediately after giving birth, and the tenacious calf just wouldn’t give up until he’d mastered standing. It just knows that by standing it’ll learn to walk, and by walking it’ll grow to run, so that it can survive. I was completely in awe. My husband felt that this…

Jock Safari Lodge KRUGER NATIONAL PARK, MPUMALANGA ‘So, have you ever seen this on a trip from an airport?’ asked head ranger Lazarus Mkhonto, stopping the vehicle in a dry riverbed. He pointed to a leopard sitting on a shady rock. Not just a leopard, we soon noticed – a leopard with a cub. Lazarus added a herd of ellies mud-bathing and two rhinos before we pulled up outside Jock Safari Lodge. And this was just the midday transfer from Skukuza Airport. What a pleasure it was to fly in from Cape Town, touching down directly on hallowed Kruger soil. Jock was the first private concession granted in the national park back in 1982. Now under new ownership, the lodge underwent a major refurbishment by international design company Luxury Frontiers…

OWNER OF LIVING THE DREAM SURF SCHOOL ‘There is something about Durban that people gravitate to – there’s a feeling here like no other. I remember childhood visits to South Beach to watch the netters bringing in sardines or visiting the funfair rides at the paddling pools. There is a real beach culture here and the promenade is busy from as early as 4am in summer, buzzing with a mixed bag of people all starting their day on the right foot: watching the sunrise over a cup of coffee, running, cycling, skateboarding, SUP boarding, surfing…’ Three years ago, Matt and his partner Kim (pictured above) started with a gazebo, camping chairs and a few boards on Vetch’s Beach, taking people surfing. A few months later they moved their school onto…

1 Respect the different countries and cultures you encounter and learn some of the customs before arriving. 2 Where language will be a barrier, get help from a local guide to negotiate any fees or permission prior to taking any images. In traditional communities, get permission from a local chief. 3 Be extra-sensitive around children, babies, women and animals. 4 Take an interest in the people and engage with them, thus gauging how they feel about you taking their picture. Children, in particular, are intrigued by cameras and most love the interaction and attention. Show them the images on the back of your camera for greater engagement. 5 Be courteous and don’t push when you can see your subject is tired or uncomfortable. 6 Consider the long-term effect of any…

2019’s Getaway Gallery winner is in for a luxury tropical-island treat at a particularly photogenic destination off the coast of Mozambique. The winner and a parter will fly from Joburg to Vilanculos, courtesy of Airlink. From there they’ll be transferred by boat to Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort, a private paradise in the Bazaruto Archipelago. The winner also bags two specialist Tamron lenses sponsored by Singer Photographic. THE FIRST PRIZE INCLUDES: * Two return air tickets on Airlink from Joburg to Vilanculos * Full-board accommodation for two people for four nights in a beach villa at Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort * Select beverages, including complimentary in-room mini bar * Horse riding along the beach * Non-motorised watersports * A Tamron 150-600mm G2 super-telezoom lens * A Tamron…

It’s twice as big as any other of its kind in the region and looks as if someone took six massive trees and welded them together to form a super baobab. The bark is like ancient lava, melted and warped from centuries of African sun. It’s 22 metres high and 46 metres in circumference, making it the second-thickest tree in the world, after a cypress in Mexico, and requires at least 20 people to fully embrace it. I’m standing in front of the world’s biggest baobab. There’s just my mother and me here in Venda in Limpopo, and the conditions – low clouds, no wind, only the occasional bird call – create an air of intimacy. It feels like a private meeting with a 1 200-year-old celebrity. Like great bodies…

The first time I saw Lake Como was while dog-sitting a university friend’s unruly French bulldog. Hanging on the wall of his entrance hall was a blown-up panoramic photo of said friend with his bride on their wedding day. They looked dazzling, standing on a manicured lawn next to an Italian fountain and a villa above a vast lake. It struck me as the sort of place reserved for celebrities. A year-and-a-half later, when I arrived on these very shores, I was surprised. There is indeed glamour all around – convoys of convertible Ferraris, motorboats topped with tanned Italians and, of course, George Clooney’s villa – but there’s another more down-to-earth side too. My husband and I arrived at Milano Malpensa Airport in the early evening and caught a taxi…

VENICE, ITALY Venice in its prime was the pleasure capital of Europe, and at its most debauched during Carnival. Gambling in public was legal during the festivities, people could dress as they wanted and not according to their social class or gender, and masks were worn widely. With concealed identities, the citizens of the ‘Floating City’ grew even more decadent. Gondoliers provided discreet door-to-door transport for secret trysts (this was the time and city of Casanova, after all) while the grand balls were the envy of Europe. Even nuns and monks wore masks and engaged in many activities usually reserved for secular citizens. Much has changed since those times but the masks and balls remain in the City of Love. The Venice Carnival will once again run for two weeks…

What would you do to follow your passion? It took the four authors of this hefty 1216-page book 12 years to complete their research, undertaking 22 expeditions while on leave from their day jobs (a farmer, reserve manager, horticulturist and botanist), entirely at their own expense, to document all the trees and shrubs of Mozambique. Imagine it: a large country (almost 800 000-square-kilometres, with a 2 900-kilometre coastline), which has remained relatively botanically unexplored. In most of the country there are no visitor facilities, roads are bad and breakdown services non-existent. Add to this the still-real threat of land mines, as well as malaria and a mostly hot, humid and rainy climate, and the enormity of the task becomes clear. The last book about Mozambique’s trees was published in 1966,…

HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 20 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph ,  scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Darling, she created a longlist of 21 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT I FOUND ABOUT ACCOMMODATION HERE • Given that Darling offers delicious wines and craft beers, rolling views, seasonal flower carpets and is home to ‘national treasure’ Pieter-Dirk Uys’s theatre, you’d expect it to be overflowing with accommodation, but I found surprisingly little stock.…

ABOUT THE COMPETITION We are in awe of these brilliant celestial skyscapes and photographic musings connecting us with what lies beyond and seemingly above, but is really all around us. The Astronomy Photographer of the Year competition is run by the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London, in association with Insight Investment and the BBC’s Sky at Night Magazine. It’s one of the largest international competitions of its kind, showcasing the best space images shot by astrophotographers worldwide (who use ordinary cameras as well as telescopes, special lenses and filters). Entries are split into eight main categories, including People and Space, Aurorae, Skyscapes and Galaxies. Last year the competition celebrated a decade of enthusiasts capturing our starry skies, and more than 4000 entries were submitted by photographers from 91 countries. A…

GETTING THERE Alitalia flies from Joburg to Milan with a stopover in Rome (from R11 400 pp, alitalia.com). The taxi to Lake Como (which can be pre-booked, milanomalpensaairport.com ) takes up to 90 minutes and costs around R1 450 (€90). Or catch a train from the airport for R160 pp (€10) to the city of Como, and take a taxi or boat from there. See welcomepickups.com for info. WHEN TO GO Any time between March and November is good; sunshine (and crowds) are guaranteed in July and August. NEED TO KNOW Ferries connect Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio and Cadenabbia. Single trips cost R74 pp (€4,60); a one-day pass costs R240 (€15), a six-day pass is R725 (€45). navigazionelaghi.it Our bus fare from our hotel in Cadenabbia to Menaggio cost around R20…

‘When you return to your mundane lives on Monday,’ beamed Sean Megannon to the eclectic mix of locals and tourists assembled around the wooden tables of his seaside eatery, ‘remember these four words: This. Is. My. Office.’ The locals and returning clientele smiled knowingly and continued their conversations. They’d heard it before, many times, yet it had not lost its charm. An insider joke of sorts. It was somewhere after 1 pm on a Friday afternoon, some of the locals had come for a quick bite before heading back to the office for the obligatory few hours of the working week. Others were installed for the longer haul. As offices go, Kaai 4 Braai restaurant is not a bad place to toil. Weather-dependant, it’s often my office too (the Wi-Fi’s…

GETTING THERE Mossel Bay is halfway between Cape Town and PE on the N2, around 400km from both. WHEN TO GO It’s temperate climate makes it a year-round destination. December holidays are packed; February to March is perfect. visitmosselbay.co.za STAY HERE Point Village manages self-catering accommodation at The Point, Santos and Dias beaches. From R1 100 (sleeps two). 044-690-7782. pointvillage.co.za The Lookout Apartment is funky mezzanine living in a quiet back street with bay views. Host Kristin McGachy also manages other properties in the area. From R700 (sleeps two). airbnb.com Point Caravan Park Be in the thick of the action in this perennially popular grassed and shaded site overlooking the sea. From R210 a site for six. 044-690-3501, mosselbay.gov.za Hotel Portao Diaz in the suburb of D’Almeida has views over…