Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2019 i go!

A traffic jam is never fun, but there’s one place in Cape Town where I don’t mind crawling along: the section of the N2 next to the Black River where you can often see flocks of greater flamingos making wide turns above the river as they search for a landing spot. They’re spectacular birds in flight (long, graceful necks held perfectly steady), but their landings are less elegant: thin legs clawing at the air, wings flapping rapidly, followed by a comical crash into the shallows next to the highway. It’s so entertaining that I have to keep reminding myself to focus on the road so I don’t drive off the verge or into the back of a minibus taxi! Other mornings, across the road from the old Athlone power station,…

Earth is the third rock from the sun. Bearing this in mind, it makes sense that the two inner planets, Mercury and Venus, should move over the face of the sun every now and then. This phenomenon is called a “transit”. Mercury is positioned closest to the sun and therefore transits most frequently – an average of 13 times per century. Transits of Venus are more rare – only eight times since the discovery of the telescope 400 years ago. In space terms, we’re currently experiencing quite a “busy” time as far as Mercury is concerned. There were transits in November 1999, May 2003, November 2006 and May 2016. The May/November pattern continues: The next transit is on 11 November 2019. Make sure you don’t miss it, otherwise you’ll have…

Anne Vicente, Johannesburg “The drought is devastating, but I was amazed to see how the people of Namaqualand accept their lot with humility and perseverance. They are wonderful!” Sarah Mackay, Nottingham Road “I can’t get that one Worsie Visser song out of my head! “Boesmanland, vat my hand! Lei my oor die rant se kant!”The region reached out to me and it hasn’t let me go.” Tanya Sturgeon, Johannesburg “I enjoyed the camaraderie of the group. Even when I walked on my own, I never felt alone. It was a beautiful form of meditation.” Barbara Smit, Pretoria “It was unbelievable! The silence grounds you.”…

Have you been somewhere you think other go! readers would enjoy? Write about the experience and we might publish your story. Please keep it short (1 500 words maximum) and send us some sample photos. If we do decide to publish, we’ll need the original, high-resolution photos so make sure your camera is on the right setting. E-mail your story to editor@ gomag.co.za. We reserve the right to edit and shorten your text, and use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and in our marketing material.…

COMPILED BY SHELLEY CHRISTIANS Sam Reinders’ love for Mongolia started when she first visited nearly 18 years ago. These days she visits annually, as a photographic tour leader with Oryx Photo Tours. “Our tour coincides with the annual Golden Eagle Festival, which takes place in the north-western province of Bayan-Ölgii,” she says. “There, like in much of Mongolia, the population is largely nomadic, moving homes twice or three times a year in search of grazing for their herds of yaks, goats, horses and other animals. We usually visit in October and stay with host families at the base of the Altai Mountains. The days are achingly cold, even though the full wrath of winter has not yet arrived.” Sam is a freelance photographer who bides her time between the Karoo…

SHADY TECHNOLOGY Do you really need polarised lenses? The honest answer: You don’t have to pay the extra cash for it (sometimes up to 30 % more), but polarisation does offer more than normal lenses. Polarised lenses block out more UV light and they’ve been proven to reduce sight degeneration and the chance of developing future cataracts. They can also help with reducing eye strain, which can lead to migraines. Most importantly, from an outdoor perspective, they cut through glare. This works especially well when you’re on or near water – you can see into the depths when you’re kayaking and better avoid rocks and other obstacles, and you can see where the trout are lurking when you’re fly-fishing. Here are some facts about polarised lenses: It’s not an external…

This off-the-grid pop-up camp is the perfect place to recharge your tired batteries: It is within easy reach of five Blue Flag beaches, several Marine Protected Areas, world-renowned hiking trails and the magical Knysna Forest. Exchange the sounds of taxis or tractors for the snuffling of a bushbuck and the call of a fish-eagle. At this family getaway, all you are required to do is relax and immerse yourself in the natural environment, while you enjoy creature comforts like a luxury tent, comfortable beds and crisp linen. And you won’t even need to cook: You’ll be served three meals a day around the campfire, on the banks of the Bitou River. Paddle on the river or visit the bird hide to observe the many bird species found in the woody…

I drive slowly along Soutpan Road, adjacent to Soshanguve, easing my small car over speed bumps and manoeuvring through the township’s many stop streets. The sun has just come up; I left Joburg early to make sure I could get a good view of the crater in the clear morning light. The road is called Soutpan for a reason. I’m approaching the Tswaing Meteorite Crater reserve, and Tswaing means “Place of Salt” in Setswana. About 220 000 years ago, a meteorite the size of a soccer field smashed into the earth here, leaving a salty crater lake behind – 13 times saltier than the Dead Sea. Humans collected salt from the lake for millennia, up until the middle of the 20th century, when supplies dwindled. Today, the crater lake and…

Having driven about 5 000 km through Ethiopia, along some of the worst roads of our trip so far, we were dusty and tired. We were looking forward to Kenya for two reasons: a luxury six-night break on Lamu Island, and watching frolicking wildebeest while sipping a G&T. The great migration was in full swing. First things first, though: another border. We crossed from Ethiopia into Kenya at Moyale, and the Ethiopian side was a total non-event, even though we only got there at 6 pm. “You’re my first vehicle this week!” the immigration official told us. Unfortunately, on the Kenyan side, we were informed that the immigration office had closed. “Hakuna matata!” said a security guard, indicating a spot where we could set up camp for the night within…

What do you do? I work in public health. My job involves finding out which health programmes and services work for different types of people. My focus is on the health of mothers, babies and people with disabilities – in East Africa and southern Africa. I work for the Institute for Life Course Health Research (ILCHR) at the medical campus of Stellenbosch University; I also do some work for the World Health Organisation. I was in Musoma in the Mara region of Tanzania recently; next up is Geneva. What’s so special about Kenya? The Kenyans. The people of Kisumu, especially, embody the kind of national personality that travellers find so welcoming. Many international organisations and agencies are based in Kisumu. As a consequence, the city is full of doctors, engineers…

Highest points in SA’s provinces North West: Nooitgedacht (1 816 m), the highest point of the Magaliesberg Gauteng: Toringkop (1 913 m) in Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve Limpopo: Iron Crown (2 126 m) near Haenertsburg Northern Cape: Murch Point (2 156 m) in the Karoo Western Cape: Seweweekspoort Peak (2 325 m) in the Groot Swartberg Nature Reserve Mpumalanga: De Berg (2 331 m) near Lydenburg Eastern Cape: KwaDuma (3 019 m) in the Drakensberg Free State: Namahadi (3 291 m) in the Drakensberg KwaZulu-Natal: Mafadi (3 451 m), the highest peak in South Africa in the Drakensberg WOMEN-ONLY TEAM SETS 9 PEAKS RECORD Imagine hiking 141 km, climbing 7 888 m and driving 5 298 km – in eight days, 19 hours and 12 minutes. That’s exactly what Tumi Mphahlehle…

Coetzee (42) lost his leg in a waterskiing accident more than 20 years ago. To cope with the trauma, he decided then and there that his dream was to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. In September this year, he became the fastest disabled climber to summit the mountain – covering the final section in six hours and 30 minutes. His wife Danielle (39) was by his side every step of the way. Why Kilimanjaro? C: When I lost my leg many years ago, I said that I wanted to conquer Africa’s highest peak. A few of my friends had their doubts and said it would be a tough climb, even for guys with two legs. At the beginning of this year I said to my wife, “Let’s get out of our comfort…

Sophia travelled with Eco Ventures. Hikers are collected from Cape Town International Airport the day before the hike begins, and dropped off there afterwards. You spend two days on the road and five days on the trail. The daily distances vary, with a maximum of 20 km per day. Make sure you’re fit and that your shoes are worn in. If you can comfortably walk 10 km, you’ll be able to do the longer distances with ease. Cost: R11 000 per person. The rate includes transport, accommodation, meals, snacks and park fees. Contact: 082 343 7853 (Frik Olwage); ecoventures.co.za Visit the website for other slackpacking trails in the Kalahari, Little Karoo, Baviaanskloof, Winelands, Cederberg and Fish River Canyon.…

STAY HERE Semonkong Lodge Various accommodation options, including a campsite, backpacker-style rooms and en suite double rooms. We stayed in the Thaba Tséhla Bunkhouse: two rondavels with bunk beds and a shared bathroom. There is a communal kitchen and braai facilities. Rates: Camping R150 per person; dorm R250 per person; en suite rooms from R685 per person sharing, including breakfast. Where? Semonkong Lodge is 130 km south-east of Maseru. It takes about three hours to drive from the capital. 00 266 2700 6037; semonkonglodge.com Steepside Guest Farm Two units, Rock Retreat Cottage and Oudestal Cottage, both with three bedrooms, a living area with a fireplace, and a spacious outside area. Both sleep six people. Rates: From R1 200 per night. Where? The turn-off to the guest farm is on the…

Marizaan Els, Pretoria “The food was delicious. The salmon and caper salad, the starter on the first night, stood out.” Glenda Stevens, Cape Town “Travelling by train is a much nicer experience than travelling by plane. It’s more relaxing, especially if you don’t have to be at a specific place at a specific time.” Marcus & Nomfundo Mbatha, Johannesburg Marcus: “This trip is something we’ve always wanted to do – we’re celebrating our ten-year wedding anniversary. It’s a different experience to something like a cruise ship. I’m impressed by the quality of the service.” Nomfundo: “It’s more elegant than a cruise ship! I love the personal touches, like having a butler to tend to your needs.”…

Cheddar melt burgers Makes 4 Preparation time 40 minutes Cooking time 15 minutes Use medium-hot chillies to make the smoky tomato sauce. You need • 1 red pepper • 2 big red chillies • 125 ml tinned tomato-and-onion mix • 2 tablespoons fresh coriander • salt and pepper, to taste • 500 g mince • 1 teaspoon braai spices • 2 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs • 8 slices of salami • 4 thick slices of cheddar • ½ red onion, finely chopped • 4 vetkoek or bread rolls • mayonnaise or mustard • 1 avocado, sliced • baby spinach Here’s how 1 Roast the red pepper and chillies directly over the flames until charred all over and tender. Put the whole pepper and chillies, tomato-and-onion mix, and coriander in a food processer and pulse until you have a coarse braai sauce. Add the sauce to a…

The Namib is the world’s oldest desert and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Experience this unique landscape for yourself on one of two 4x4 tours. The Namib is an everchanging dune landscape – unspoilt, vast and mesmerizing. It might seem like an inhospitable place, but look carefully you’ll find animals and plants completely adapted to the environment. You’ll also discover remnants of the desert’s rich diamond mining history, as well as haunting shipwrecks. Out there, it’s you and your 4x4 surrounded by a sea of sand. It’s easy to imagine you’re the only person on this planet. Since this is a concession area only a limited number of tours are offered every year. Make sure you are one of the fortunate few who get to experience this ultimate journey. Faces…

Inhambane, Barra, Tofo… The names alone sound exotic. All of them are holiday destinations on a peninsula in southern Mozambique where island clichés are born: white beaches, turquoise water, palm trees swaying in the breeze… As soon as you cross the border at Komatipoort, it’s obvious you’re in another country. Mozambique has a different atmosphere, helped along by the mild weather, the shush of Portuguese, cashew nuts sold next to the road and the bountiful 2M beer. But it’s only once you’re about 100 km beyond Xai-Xai that the palm trees start appearing, and there are thousands of them. Welcome to the Inhambane province and its focal point: a narrow peninsula that curls away from the mainland with the breakers of the Indian Ocean on one side and a sheltered…

NGORONGORO, TANZANIA In May 2019, I visited two of the great reserves in Tanzania: Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. We saved the Ngorongoro Crater for last, and the photo opportunities were excellent. Ngorongoro always feels like a delicious dessert after the Serengeti main course. After breakfast on this particular morning, we went looking for big-tusked elephant bulls. Along the way we spotted a serval on the prowl. We found the ellies and I took photos, but while we were there our guide heard on the radio that a clan of hyenas was hunting buffalo calves nearby 1 . We rushed to the scene and saw the whole thing play out. The buffalo cows did their best to protect their young against the big clan of hyenas, and…

I’m writing this in a Kenya Airways aeroplane, high above Tanzania. I left Kisumu in Kenya this morning, after spending a week there for work – the umpteenth time I’ve done so in the past three years. While trying not to look down (I’m afraid of heights), I’m also thinking about how travel writers often say that towns and cities “hug” the natural body to which they approximate. Durban hugs the coast. Cape Town hugs the mountain. Other cities might sit, nestle or squat. Pietermaritzburg squats. I grew up there: It’s hot, contemplative and situated in a dip – squatly. Kisumu, to my mind, runs and fetches. Kisumu is Kenya’s inland port city. Lake Victoria has bitten a big, beautiful chunk out of East Africa, and Kisumu takes up space…

The name Oudtshoorn usually brings to mind images of the Swartberg, ostriches, the Cango Caves, arid landscapes… the last thing you’ll expect to see is a waterfall in a dark cool ravine. However, that’s exactly what you’ll find about 30 km north-east of town on the R328 – surprise! After paying the entry fee, you drive through the veld along a dirt road for about 2,5 km to the ravine in the foothills of the Swartberg. From here it’s a short walk (about 10 minutes) along walkways and bridges to the waterfall on the Groot River. The river has water year-round. Unfortunately, swimming is not allowed as the river supplies drinking water to the town. There are picnic facilities underneath huge bluegum trees near the entrance gate, but they need…

MEET THE AUTHOR Don Pinnock is a respected South African author, photographer and investigative journalist. Along with Colin Bell, he compiled The Last Elephants, which features 42 chapters by some of Africa’s top experts, conservationists and other interested parties, alongside some exceptional photography. The book has been published worldwide and it’s already making a positive contribution towards elephant conservation. You and Colin were inspired by the Great Elephant Census of 2016… Yes. We knew elephants were being poached in Africa, but the census gave us hard data of the horrific scale of the problem. From three to four million a century ago, there were only 350 000 savannah elephants left, and around 100 000 forest elephants. The poaching rate was around three killed an hour. At the rate they’re being…

PEDROSKLOOF The farm has five units; two are self-catering. Some units sleep two to three people, others sleep up to five. Owner Sulene Archer is a formidable cook and serves breakfast (from R70) and dinners featuring regional cuisine (from R150) – book beforehand. De Kuilen is a renovated farmhouse that sleeps up to five, with a gas stove and a gas fridge. There’s no Eskom power but there are lamps and candles for atmosphere, and you can charge your cellphone and camera batteries using a solar system. Where? About 26 km east of Kamieskroon, via the Kamiesberg Pass. Rates: R350 per person at Pedroskloof; R300 per person (minimum two nights) at De Kuilen. Contact: 087 095 0523; sulene.archer@gmail.com GARIES SELF-CATERING Eight self-catering units, each of which sleeps two to four…

WHY? We publish a selection of reader pictures every month. Don’t be shy, haul out those shots you’ve been hoarding on your computer and send them to us! We like just about anything: wildlife, landscapes, portraits, holiday snaps or bugs in your garden. HOW? Send your best photos to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za Don’t send files bigger than 4 MB – if we need a bigger version, we’ll ask for it. Give the name, surname, home town and contact number of the photographer. Also include info about where and how the shot was taken, and what equipment was used. If you manipulated your photo in any way, tell us what you did. THE FINE PRINT We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and marketing material.…

The recipes this month are all stuffed full of surprises. With that in mind, here are three wines, each with an unexpected twist. Van Loveren is an institution in the South African wine world, and it looks like they’re about to become a legend in the non-alcoholic world, too. The Van Loveren Almost Zero White NV (R70) is on point when it comes to the worldwide trend of trying to reduce alcohol intake. It’s made using spinning cone technology, which separates the alcohol and the flavour from the liquid, but adds the latter back to ensure the wine still tastes great, despite being alcohol-free. The biggest surprise about Tokara in Stellenbosch is that this esteemed winery has only been in existence for 20 years! In my opinion, their success has…

Explore the Okavango Delta, the great rivers of the Caprivi region, and mighty Victoria Falls, while our experts make sure you’re safe, well fed and comfortable at all times. This self-drive tour is one of the most popular on the Bhejane itinerary, for good reason: It allows you to have a true African adventure at a reasonable price, and you don’t need any technical off-road driving skills. Travel from the vast Makgadikgadi Pans around the Okavango Delta and up the Panhandle, pausing at the mysterious Tsodilo Hills – a world-renowned rock art site. You’ll travel east through the Caprivi in Namibia, and back to Botswana via the ever-impressive Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The tour ends with a cruise on the Chobe River, where you can toast the sunset while elephants…

SIMON STREICHER, knife and cabanossi maker My wife Antjies and I moved to Clarens from Kestell in 1998 – Clarens was still a small, quiet town back then. We left in 2003 because it became too commercialised. When we arrived in Rosendal, it felt like we were living on a farm. When the road grader comes by, I ask the driver to not grade the road in front of my house because I like the grass; the veld running up to the wall. We like the rhythm of Rosendal. We have friends, but we see each other about once every six weeks. And it’s not like we have nothing to do the rest of the time: I make knives, smoke warthog wors and build and restore things; Antjies does needlework.…

“The Ngorongoro Crater is like a big zoo. It’s about 300 km² in size and the soil has a high mineral content so there’s lots of grass and beautiful fever trees to support a variety of game. “You might be photographing an elephant, and there will be Thomson’s gazelle, Grant’s gazelle, zebras and eland grazing in the same frame. For bird lovers, there are flamingos, grey crowned cranes, pelicans, augur buzzards and Abdim’s storks in the crater. There’s no other place in the world where you can see such a wide variety of animals in one day and get good photos. “I took about 100 photos in total to capture this scene, using a Canon EOS7D Mark II camera and a Canon EF200 – 400 mm lens with an extender.…