Indholdsfortegnelse for January 2023 i Gourmet Traveller

Perhaps the only thing I love more than a tropical island getaway, is a tropical island nap. Forget spa treatments and guided meditation, for a restorative boost, I will take an afternoon siesta in the shade of a fluttering palm tree any day. Just thinking about it now warms my skin and slows my mind. Which is the same feeling we wanted to bring to this issue, easing you gently into 2023. You’ll find no New Year, New You affirmations in these pages. Rather, we invite you to sink into the comfort of island life, feasting on tropical recipes and refreshing drinks (the watermelon and ginger shrub on p90 will be my signature drink this summer). Grab a good book – as recommended by the marvellous Hannah-Rose Yee – and…

Sydney Modern Project, NSW Expect to see this bright Yayoi Kusama sculpture blooming on Instagram feeds all throughout summer, with the arrival of Sydney’s newest gallery. Kusama’s piece might be the most eye-catching work on display but the world-class gallery has plenty of exhibitions worth carving a summer afternoon to see. Lauren de Sousa, art director Osborn House, Southern Highlands, NSW The Southern Highlands isn’t just a winter destination and this bright octopus with confit Robertson potatoes, tomato aïoli and paprika shows exactly why. Fireside cooking and whisky can be enjoyed in any season. Dominic Smith, senior food editor The Bower, Byron Bay, NSW The sprawling double daybeds, well-stocked bar and jungle-like garden surrounding this pool make a compelling case to lounge around like a lizard all day. But Byron’s…

1 Kariton Sorbetes, Melbourne CBD Taking Italian gelato bases and smashing them up with bold Asian flavours makes for distinctive scoops at Kariton’s second outpost. Chefs John Rivera and Minh Duong bring creative thinking to each creation: be it coffee gelato with milk crumb and toasted pandesal (Filipino bread); or watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew ice candies. karitonsorbetes.com 2 Pidapipó Laboratorio, Fitzroy Much-loved Melbourne gelato brand Pidapipó is steeped in history, but also is breaking new ground with the launch of its hybrid retail and production space. The spectacle of crafting gelato is on show, alongside Neapolitan bombe Alaskas and handmade chocolates. pidapipo.com 3 Frankies Gelato, Byron Bay Set a block back from Byron Bay’s main beach, Frankies sees co-owner Franco Giordano scooping gelato from pozzetti tubs. Where this scoop shop…

One of Australia’s most iconic island getaways has levelled up its luxury offering with the arrival of 12 private beachfront pavilions, secluded away from the main resort at Hayman Island Intercontinental. The new adults-only accommodation offers guests direct beach access, as well as their own heated private plunge pool and exclusive access to the My Concierge service, which sees a dedicated team on call to cater to any and all special requests. Inside, each pavilion features a separate lounge and spacious bathroom, including a deep soaking tub with views of the idyllic, palm-fringed beach. But while the temptation to stay secluded and make the most of the private retreats is strong, there is one very good reason to venture further afield and into the main resort complex – the food.…

I’ll be returning to the Australian Open in January, this time not as a player. Without a doubt it will feel strange. The whole lead-up to the Australian Open: December, Christmas, the start of January. Usually I’m in my own bubble, where there’s so much desire and want. You’re thinking, “Is it my year? Is it time?”. This year, I won’t have that super intense preseason. I’m excited because it allows me to enjoy it in a different way – it doesn’t make it any better or worse, it’s just different. I’m excited to enjoy it as a spectator and fan. Before, I never went up and went outside – it was always through the tunnels, practice court, locker room, car, home. I’ve spent a lot of time in Melbourne…

Clare Valley is widely regarded as the home of Australia’s best riesling. And there’s no shortage of it. Measuring in at 5093 hectares of vineyards, Clare Valley is larger than the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Tasmania’s vineyards combined. Much of the credit belongs to the weather (or more specifically the diurnal temperature variation that sees warm days for ripening fruit combine with cool nights to capture acidity when grapes are sleeping). And yet, the true origin story for the country’s zippiest whites can be traced to a night at the local pub in 2000 when 14 Clare Valley winemakers met to plot the great cork-to-screw revolution. It had been attempted before. In 1968 Stelvin screw top closures were trialled at Pewsey Vale, which were notoriously badly received. It wasn’t…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Charred chicken wings in hot ancho and honey SERVES 6 //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 20 MINS (PLUS SOAKING, PICKLING) 1 dried ancho chilli, coarsely torn (see note)1 garlic clove, crushed2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted1 tsp sweet paprika175 gm honey, plus extra honey for brushing125 ml (½ cup) red wine vinegar1.2 kg chicken wingettes Vegetable oil, for brushing500 gm watermelon, peeled, cut into rough 2cm pieces1 small red onion, thinly sliced Micro coriander, to serve 1 Place ancho chilli in a small heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and set aside to soften (15 minutes). Drain water, reserving ¼ cup. Place chilli, reserved water, garlic, 1 tsp coriander seeds, paprika, 115gm honey and 1 tbsp vinegar in a small blender and blend until smooth; season…

Watermelon, ginger and makrut lime shrub SERVES 10 //PREP TIME 10 MINS //COOK 5 MINS (PLUS INFUSING) BEGIN THIS RECIPE 2 DAYS AHEAD 200 gm caster sugar2 tbsp finely grated ginger6 makrut lime leaves, plus extra to serve500 gm watermelon flesh, plus extra wedges to serve200 ml white balsamic vinegar2 tbsp makrut lime juice Chilled soda water, to serve 1 Place sugar, ginger, makrut lime leaves and 250ml water in a small saucepan; bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced slightly (5 minutes). Set aside to infuse for 1 hour then strain syrup.  2 Blend watermelon in a high-speed blender until smooth; pass through a fine sieve over a bowl. 3 Place sugar syrup, vinegar and lime juice in bowl with watermelon purée and stir to combine.…

Can you hear it? The gentle crash of foamy waves lapping at the shore. The warm rustle of a summer breeze as it rushes through the wild bougainvillea. This is the soundtrack to your bellissimo summer escape on Italy’s Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri. An hour’s drive through the rugged scenery from Naples lands you in Amalfi. From there, Capri is but a 50-minute boat ride away, punctuated by rocky limestone behemoths emerging from the crystal sea. This is where wine and seafood are devoured with relish and life plays out in glorious sea-brined bliss. In these pages, Australian photographer Taryn Peck has lovingly captured these landscapes for us to enjoy, to marvel, and to elicit dreams of holidays to come.…

KitchenAid Hibiscus Move over millennial pink, there’s a new colour in town and it is hot, hot, hot! Hibiscus is the Colour of the Year according to KitchenAid, with the blazing pink range promising to bring tropical flair to any kitchen counter. kitchenaid.com.au Maison de Sabré Jelligrain Designed to mimic the look and feel of full-grain leather, all-new Jelligrain is made from biocompatible silicone, to deliver both style and sustainability. Available in six tropical colours, to keep your phone safe and stylish. maisondesabre.com Summer Siesta by The Raconteur The Raconteur has captured the scent of summer with its new range of candles, inspired by three of Australia’s best loved wine regions: Margaret River, Mornington and the Barossa. theraconteur.co Oliver James Lilos Whether it’s in a pool, on the lawn, or…

How did you get your start as a pastry chef? I didn’t really mean to get into baking. I worked at Harrods Food Halls in London during my gap year before starting physiotherapy at university. While I was there I saw all of the amazing pastry creations and chocolates on display and I knew I needed to learn more. I met one of the pastry chefs there and started hassling him everyday until he agreed to let me do an apprenticeship with him. What’s been the highlight of becoming head pastry chef at The Charles? Curating the dessert trolley has been so fun. It was really exciting to have an opportunity to do à la carte service as well as a trolley, because I feel like as a pastry chef,…

You either love coriander, or hate it. The first time I tasted coriander leaves, I thought they tasted like crushed insects. It turns out I wasn’t the first person to think this, as “coriander” derives from the Greek word “koris”, meaning a bed bug. Coriander is an essential flavour in cuisines from around the world, from Europe and the Middle East, to Asia and Latin America. Surely the majority of humanity couldn’t be wrong about this herb being delicious. Some people appear to have a genetic predisposition to disliking coriander, but I was not convinced I was one of them. Perhaps I just needed more practice. The more I ate coriander, the more I came to enjoy its unique, zingy flavour. Nowadays I’m quite addicted to it. Coriander originated in…

Great cocktails hinge on bringing divergent flavours into perfect balance. That becomes an especially tall order when the flavours in question are Campari’s bracing bitterness, the tartness of grapefruit and lime, and tequila’s unmistakeable vegetal sweetness. It’s a peculiar combination, but the Siesta gets it right. Now widely considered a modern classic, the drink was developed in 2006 by New York bartender Katie Stipe as a spin on the Hemingway Daiquiri. It wasn’t until some years later that it gained widespread attention, becoming one of a handful of cocktails used in Speed Rack – a high-speed, all-female bartending competition designed to raise money to combat breast cancer. “The first time I made the drink was actually during the Speed Rack Australia national final in 2018, and it’s been on my…

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Golden hour on Sydney Harbour is a magical thing. When that final flare of sunlight sets the world aglow, everyone and everything becomes just a little bit more radiant. And this summer, there’s no better place to experience that magic than aboard Australia’s newest private charter experience, Sea Raes. Of course, sunset cruises on the harbour are nothing new. But this is no Prosecco in plastic and deli meats situation. Instead, the team behind Raes on Wategos is raising the bar and creating what is set to become one of the country’s most sought-after golden hour experiences. The day Gourmet Traveller jumped aboard, joined by a host of friends, Perrier-Jouet Champagne flowed freely alongside a first-class menu of seasonal snacks, including zucchini flowers stuffed with handpicked spanner crab; scallops with…

Salmon meets citrus in this summer breeze of a dish, which is substantial enough to star outright. Shawarma-spiced chicken with pomegranate tabbouleh SERVES 4-6 //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 50 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, RESTING) Labanieh takes this sharwarma dish to a luxurious new level. Begin this recipe a day ahead. 2 tbsp baharat spice2 tsp smoked salt500 gm chicken thigh fillets, trimmed200 gm (1 cup) whole freekeh, soaked overnight in cold water, drained1 Lebanese cucumber, seeds removed, cut into 5mm pieces1 cup each (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley, coriander and mint leaves, coarsely chopped1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced, fronds reserved1 pomegranate, arils removed Charred pita bread, to serve MAPLE DRESSING 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice1 tbsp maple syrup½ tsp sumac CUMIN LABANIEH 1…

The name alone conjures up all the clichés of tropical island bliss. White sand beaches. Crystal clear waters. Lush gardens and palm groves. Craggy volcanic peaks. Fiji has all this in abundance. But what stays with visitors long after they’ve returned home is the warmth of the Fijian welcome. It’s hard to overstate it. Fijians are generous, gregarious and fiercely proud of their culture. “Welcome home” is the universal greeting and they’re delighted to share their little piece of paradise with you. With 300 islands and more than 50 resorts and hotels spread across a pristine swathe of the South Pacific, there are multiple holiday options, from exclusive, tiny castaway islands to big, family-friendly resorts where children are looked after with doting affection. Fiji is vulnerable to climate change and…

CLARE MAGUIRE chef and recipe developer Island life, p88 After working at Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurant and private cheffing in Europe, Clare Maguire made the move to sunny Australia. For this issue she looked to the tropical produce and flavour-forward techniques of Thailand, Sri Lanka and Tonga for a summer-ready spread. “I took inspiration from places I’ve travelled to and worked in,” she says. So grab some ripe mangoes; char your pineapples; and challenge yourself to barbecue coral trout, wrapped in banana leaves for a tropical summer feast. BELINDA LUKSIC writer Bodacious beauty, p134 For Australian writer Belinda Luksic, food is inextricably bound to history; every dish a map of conquerors past. For this issue, she travelled to the Bodrum Peninsula in Turkey to delve into the heart of Ottoman cuisine.…

REEF ENCOUNTER The best way to stop that end-of-holiday feeling is to book your next one. Now open to book for the mid-year season, Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef brings luxury safari lodgings to Western Australia’s Cape Range National Park, home to one of the world’s longest fringing reefs. July is prime time for humpbacks, whale sharks and temperate weather. Add clear waters and sprawling gorges, and this will be a trip you’re counting down to. salsalis.com.au After a sold-out debut Lennox Hastie is joining forces with The Balvenie to host another whisky culinary experience at Firedoor in February. The intimate evening includes a five-course menu – with Hastie’s signature fire-driven cooking – paired with single malts, and two never-before released cask samples direct from the Balvenie Distillery in Scotland. Guests…

GT TEAM FAVOURITE 1. ORTIZ BOQUERONES These silky-textured white anchovies (which are preserved in vinegar and oil soon after being caught, rather than being salted and aged) possess a sharp citrus punch. The garlicky marinade and bright flavour would go well chopped through a salad or as part of a tapas spread. $16.99 for 110gm, harrisfarm.com.au 2. OLASAGASTI CANTABRIAN ANCHOVIES A favourite with chefs, these clean, salt-forward bites are a great all-rounder anchovy to keep in the pantry for entertaining. Olasagasti (in their words, “hard to say but easy to eat”) anchovies would go beautifully atop oxheart tomatoes with a crack of pepper or served in a classic Caesar salad. $12 for 48gm, pnvmerchants.com 3. CONSERVAS NARDIN SMOKED ANCHOVIES At this family-owned Sicilian fishery, the fine art of salting and…

In May last year, I met Professor Megan Davis at a First Nations gathering and exhibition in Sydney. Megan spoke about The Uluru Statement from the Heart with such clarity, wisdom and generosity that her words and energy touched me deeply. In her words, “First Nations people simply want a seat at the table, we’ve never had a seat at the table. Despite more than 60,000 years of speaking, we still have no Voice to Parliament.” Lucky and I can’t wait to vote “yes”, because it’s very clear that a Voice is good for all Australians and will create a better future for everyone. The colours of Uluru are ever changing. Over the course of a single day, the rock goes from a rusty gold to bright red and a…

There’s a snowy line of salt crystals encircling the rim of my Margarita glass but out beyond the big foldback windows the evening is balmy, a sinking sun daubing the brimming Noosa River with ribbons of orange and gold. On Bandita’s undercover deck, diners lounge on stylish timber-and-rope couches and organise another round of sundowners, relishing the last of the rays. It’s hard to imagine a setting that’s less like the one where I last saw the handiwork of Jason Jones, Bandita’s chef-owner. That was more than |a decade ago at Melbourne’s cult-hit Mamasita, where queues besieged the stairwell and diners were crammed in closer than chargrilled corn kernels. Jones has been keeping busy in the interim, including a stint in Singapore as culinary director of Super Loco. His first…

The road from Adelaide to the coastal town of Victor Harbor is framed by rolling green hills dotted with sheep, bovines and towering gum trees. It is undeniably evocative and when chefs Andre Ursini and Will Doak passed Hindmarsh Valley, they saw potential. The hour-long drive from the CBD is packed with pastoral eye candy but beyond the McLaren Vale wine region, the area begged for a picturesque long lunch option. Cue Lost Phoenix Farm, a joint venture between Ursini (Andre’s Cucina, now closed, Orso restaurant and Villetta Porcini) and Doak (formerly Press Food & Wine, Orso and Fugazzi,) which aims to bring “cool, easy-going” vibes (Doak’s words) to the countryside location. While laid-back as planned, there’s thoughtfulness behind the layout, décor and service. The building itself (all white) was…

Traditionally this mayonnaise sauce is made with boiled egg yolks and the addition of onion, spring onion or chives; finely chopped pickles, capers; and fine herbs; and was one of the originally prescribed sauces in Auguste Escoffier’s Guide to Modern Cookery. These days, it’s a pitch-perfect accompaniment for seafood, and making your own will elevate the humble fish and chips to a new level. In this modernised version, we’ve swapped boiled eggs for silky raw yolks, added anchovies for extra oomph, and subbed in saffron to give it an extra sunny hue. Step by step 1 For mayonnaise, place a pinch of saffron in a heatproof bowl and cover with 2 tbsp boiling water; soak for 10 minutes. Place 3 egg yolks and 1 tbsp Dijon mustard in a bowl…

The Icebergs Dining Room and Bar legacy doesn’t get old. It just becomes more quintessentially Sydney. As we go to print, restaurateur Maurice Terzini and his crew are amid renovations, preparing for a mid-summer reopening 20 years after its doors first opened. And, as the milestone approaches, a new book reflects on the beachfront venue’s journey to icon status. Careers have been catapulted along the way. Starting with Terzini who has a hand in South Everleigh cocktail bar Re and Belongil Beach Italian, among other projects. Then there are the chefs who rose to prominence here including Karen Martini, Orazio D’Elia and Monty Koludrovic. Still the magic, Terzini admits, belongs to the sparkling blue water of Bondi Icebergs Winter Swimming Club and the vast ocean. “I think that may be…