Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2019 i GQ Style

FOR HER SPRING-SUMMER 2019 show, Martine Rose skipped the Fashion Week runways and instead staged her show on a sleepy cul-de-sac in northwest London, where neighbors mingled on the sidewalk with the international fashion corps while models clomped about in square-toe loafers embellished with sleazy gold chains. As designers appropriate the anti-fashion of the ’80s and ’90s, the sworn-off angular shoes have made a semi-ironic comeback in menswear. But nobody makes bad taste look as good as Martine Rose. Rose’s billowy trousers and parka-sized button-down shirts appear less extreme today than when she was the star of London’s underground fashion scene a decade ago. But just barely. For Rose, who founded her namesake brand in 2007, exaggerated proportions are how she tells stories about the characters that inspire her—the crusties,…

THERE’S A SILVER TOWN HOUSE on the corner of Chance and Redchurch Streets in London’s Shoreditch, a neighborhood that was once gritty but now boasts apartment developments with breathy taglines promising “luxury-living in an exciting and vibrant urban landscape” and pop-up shops where you can get vitamin IV drips. Amid all this is the metallic novelty that is Blue Mountain School. Arranged across six floors, it is a retail space meets art gallery meets fashion archive meets restaurant meets perfumery meets listening studio. The brainchild of James Brown and Christie Fels of Hostem, Blue Mountain School is one of London’s more experimental fashion stores and has achieved a cult status for highly cultivated bohemia and an obsessiveness around craft. It is the apex of this preoccupation—a mecca for those who…

Page 42. 1) Prop stylist: Stella Rey at Mark Edward Inc. 2) Prop stylist: Trina Ong at Halley Resources. Page 44. Prop stylist: Trina Ong at Halley Resources Page 47. 8) Prop stylist: Stella Rey at Mark Edward Inc. 9) Prop stylist: Trina Ong at Halley Resources. Page 48. Prop stylist: Trina Ong at Halley Resources Pages 51, 53, 56, 59, 60, 63, and 66. Prop stylist: Stella Rey at Mark Edward Inc. Page 55. 18) Prop stylist: Stella Rey at Mark Edward Inc. 19) Prop stylist: Trina Ong at Halley Resources. Page 64. 31) Prop stylist: Trina Ong at Halley Resources. 32) Prop stylist: Stella Rey at Mark Edward Inc. Page 71. From top: courtesy of NBC Universal; Suzanne Tenner/© Showtime/Everett Collection; Merrick Morton/Fox Searchlight Pictures/Everett Collection Pages 72–73.…

“WELL, I’M WATCHING all these sheep walk by,” Caleb Landry Jones is saying, “and I’m thinking, I don’t know if they got it more figured out or less figured out. They seem all right. But unlike the geese, they can’t fly away. And the geese can fly away. I think they just don’t know that they can.” It’s a Tuesday, just after the New Year, and Jones is calling from Texas, where he grew up. Talking to him over a spotty cell-phone connection is a cosmic, enjoyably disorienting experience. His sentences spin out into riffs, one-man dialogues featuring drawling impressions of his piano-teacher mom or his contractor dad, Boomhauer-esque verbal vapor trails. Right now he’s doing his best to answer questions about the craft of acting, about balancing preparation and…

WHEN CAV EMPT was born, in 2011, it was not a bolt of lightning but rather an earthquake that struck Toby Feltwell and his fellow founding partners, the designer known as SK8THING and Hishiyama Yutaka. Quite a large one. Nuclear reactors were shut down, and much of Tokyo, a city of endless, dazzling light, went dark. The result was eye-opening. “You end up in the same place,” Feltwell recalls, “but you see it immediately very differently.” Feltwell and SK8THING were nearing the end of a long stint at A Bathing Ape, after the hugely influential and successful clothing brand was sold by its original owner, Nigo. Feeling disenchanted by mass appeal but eager to work together, the founders had a seed of an idea that was just germinating when the…

WHEN MARNI CREATIVE DIRECTOR Francesco Risso was growing up, he would raid his parents’ and siblings’ closets like a mad scientist in search of parts. His sister would go out and return home to find jackets with sleeves lopped off or a skirt sprouting pant legs. His habit “tragically created dramas,” he laments over the phone from Milan, and earned him the nickname the Virus of the Wardrobe. Risso just wanted to express himself. His childhood home, he recalls, was like a “commune” that bustled with extended-family members and the random architect, artist, or agriculturist whom his dad would bring around. Risso says he wasn’t shy but he wasn’t chatty, either. He preferred to express himself through clothing—slicing up whatever he could find to make it just right. “It was…

THE 12 CARDBOARD boxes are found across the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County, past San Rafael, through a canyon, up the drive, at a house situated on an idyllic green hillside. Then: into the basement, past the meticulously organized antique-radio workshop, and down another set of stairs to the dirt-packed crawl space beneath. Inside the boxes are some several hundred T-shirts, constituting both the vintage-fashion score of this or any year (but especially this one) and an incomparable historical collection. Spread across them, emblazoned in a quarter-century’s worth of gaudy design trends, is the story of the Grateful Dead, Marin County’s psychedelic cowboys and now mythological American legends. Upstairs, the bemused shirt owner watches as they unfold and bloom across the living room, like rainbow spores from cardboard seed…

FIRST CAME THE NEWS that Hedi Slimane was headed to Celine, where he’d be introducing a men’s line for the highly coveted French luxury brand. Then it was announced that Kim Jones was leaving his post as men’s artistic director of Louis Vuitton to oversee the men’s collection at Dior. Finally, the proverbial bomb dropped when Virgil Abloh was tapped to fill the vacancy left by Jones at LV. If all that is a little hard to follow, just know this: Within the course of a couple of months in early 2018, the relatively low-key, reliably stable men’s-fashion universe was reconfigured entirely and three white-hot new energy centers emerged. Abloh, the first African-American designer to lead a European luxury house, did not squander the opportunity. For his debut collection at…

THOUGH IT WAS FAMOUSLY home to Gianni Versace—and the winter nesting place for plenty of New York City designers over the years—Miami never became a fashion capital the way L.A. has. But that’s not to say it doesn’t have style. “Miami is flashy, and we like that about it,” says GQ fashion director Mobolaji Dawodu. “The idea is to show off.” The beach, trap music, Scarface. “Miami is America’s guilty pleasure. And the thing is, in Miami you can always have a good time.” With that in mind, Dawodu and photographer Lou Escobar flew to Miami Beach and hit the streets and clubs in search of subjects for our shoot. “I was looking for people who seemed comfortable with themselves,” Dawodu explains. “It wasn’t about style, it was more about…