Indholdsfortegnelse for April/May 2020 i Great Walks

WILDFIRES, viruses, global conflicts, climate change... sometimes it feels like the world’s going to hell in a HiLux, however wrapping yourself up in a blanket of fear and never leaving your house is not the way. American philosopher Ralph Waldo Emerson said ‘Fear defeats more people than any other one thing in the world’ which got me thinking about this concept of fear which lead me to discovering US psychology professor Barbara Fredrickson’s wonderful book simply called Positivity. In it she offers five golden rules to push away fear and embrace positivity and here they are: PRACTICE GRATITUDE. Recognising and appreciating the good aspects of your life, no matter how small, can have a tremendous impact on your emotional wellbeing. How you decide to practice gratitude is up to you…

On the right path Hello, just reading your article on the Bondi to Manly Walk (Hiking the harbour city, GRW Dec-Jan 2020). Thanks for keeping us updated on new walks. The new walk can in fact be extended south from Bondi down to Malabar and beyond along the Eastern Beaches Coastal Walk, see randwick.nsw.gov.au. Perhaps an idea for a future article? Keep up the great work with the magazine which plugs a big hole in sources of up to date walking information these days. Mick Ogrizek Thanks for the update Mick. It’s nice to know our beautiful harbour walk can be extended – Ed…

WITH many of the Australian national parks either burning or burnt, I faced a hiker’s nightmare, of being on holidays but nowhere to go. Making plans was meaningless when each new proposal came another fire and another road closure. A complete review of plans brought me to an old favourite right on my doorstep – Dorrigo NP, World Heritage listed and part of the ancient Gondwana forests, remnants from the supercontinent. I camped nearby as you are not permitted to camp in the park. You can however, access the park at all hours, so this meant that I could walk from dawn to dusk if I chose. Early mornings in the park means you share the forest only with the native inhabitants. This forest is alive with the birdsong of…

AS you know many communities are struggling to get on their feet after the bushfires and the overall message coming from these towns and wilderness areas is that they need people to come back and visit; to spend money and to see how the regrowth and rebuild is going. With this in mind three walking tour operators are donating the profits from several guided walks to charities that are helping with the rebuild and rehabilitation of our wilderness areas. Park Trek First up is Park Trek who have organised a Victorian Alps Bushfire Charity Walk to take place over this Easter long weekend. “Many of our beloved wilderness areas have been devastated in the recent bushfires. In the aftermath of fire there is a significant ongoing cost to local communities…

WHEN I was a kid, the founding of the scouting movement, Baden Powell, had a very strong influence on me. Scouts reinforced my desire to have contact with nature and fed my thirst for adventure and being in the mountains. For the first 20 years of my adult life I worked in IT as a project manager then in 2004 I realised I needed to change my career path and do something where I could really feel fulfilled like I was when I was a scout. Adventure tourism was a natural choice, given my fond memories of the time I had spent hiking and discovering the joys of the outdoors. That was a turning point and a time of great excitement in my life, which saw me go back to…

ONE hundred and six years ago the first Australian and New Zealand troops to fight in WWI assembled in WA. Soon to be named Anzacs, they were transported to Egypt in a convoy of ships sailing from the port of Albany. This scenic coastal town, surrounded by hills, headlands and national parks offers a number of walks exploring Albany’s rich Anzac history. Albany’s large sheltered harbour made it the first choice for assembling the convoy, with ships starting to arrive in October 1914. Carrying thousands of new recruits that embarked from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Hobart, Adelaide and Wellington, all voyagers were eager to defend the ‘mother country’ of Great Britain. Each ship resupplied with water and coal before taking an assigned anchorage after the troops landed for their ten mile…

IF you’re heading north for the winter break you should consider doing one of these wonderful day walks that showcase the Cairns region. Kahlpahlim Rock Trail Circuit This is a 600m climb through the rainforest to huge, impressive, granite boulders, about 1300m high, which have expansive views to Copperlode Dam, the Coral Sea and Cairns. It’s then a further 45 minutes to the edge of Lamb’s Head for more wonderful views and, in September and October, a display of orchids and vivid orange resurrection grass. Grade: Hard. Time: 6-7hr. Distance: 14 km circuit (plus 2½ km car shuffle or return walk). Ascent/descent: 600m. Conditions: Mostly steep, partly shaded, slippery, often cold in rain. Getting there: No public transport, some Cairns operators in Cairns do day trips. Finding the track Turn…

“There’s nothing more magical than finding a shiny shell and knowing you’re the first person to have seen it for 150 million years.” – Sir David Attenborough WHILE hiking the Overland Track in Tasmania, I came across a little creek at the foot of a mountain that was literally covered in seashell fossils captured in mudstone. It was amazing. All their ancient stories fascinated me. I wanted to know more about who they were, when they lived, what life had been like for them. And, more to the point, what the hell salty old seashells were doing in a fresh-water creek at the base of a mountain. After some investigation I discovered that my fossil finds were an incredible 250-300 million years old. They had lived during the Permian age…

There's been so much news about the bushfires in our beautiful wilderness areas you might think there’s no where to bushwalk at the moment. But you couldn't be more wrong! The NSW Blue Mountains is a great example of an area open for business – and waiting for you to return to. Yes, some walking tracks are still closed but many have either reopened or were never affected by the wildfires. Visit nationalparks.nsw.gov.au to find out where you can bushwalk. In January, the Blue Mountains City Council (bmcc.nsw.gov.au) launched its 'Love Local' campaign encouraging residents and visitors to spend a little extra in the area to help with the financial loss the bushfires have caused businesses and we reckon that's a brilliant idea. So please make sure you explore these…

TASMANIA PARKS AND Wildlife Services wants bushwalkers to think twice about picking up walking sticks. “People’s small actions can have a very large impact over time,” the Parks and Wildlife Service’s Tracey-Ann Hooley said. A walking stick is much more than just a stick, she said, it could be material for an eagle nest, an ant highway, a sunbed for a skink, or a home for fungi. Staff at Freycinet NP noticed a large number of sticks being discarded in the carpark at the Wineglass Bay Lookout. The popular lookout attracts 271,000 visitors each year. The staff decided to collect the sticks over three months and display them to demonstrate to visitors how quickly they pile up. parks.tas.gov.au THE FIRST GOVERNMENT funded rail trail for NSW will open on Friday,…

HIKERS think of the South Island when they consider a walking tour of NZ and yet there’s so much more to the country to experience on foot. Which is why we accepted Nature and Nosh’s invitation to experience their 7-day Coastal Charm walking tour showcasing the pristine coastline and rugged landscapes of the Coromandel Peninsula, southeast of Auckland on the North Island. Over the week we got to know this area intimately – from its gorgeous beaches, beautiful waterfalls, inviting vineyards, charming towns and boutique accommodation. Meet and greet On the first day our guide Irene met us at our Auckland hotel and within a few minutes we were on the southern motorway heading to our first stop, Karangahake Gorge, 90 minutes away. Karangahake Gorge lies between The Coromandel and…

WHILE bushfires have naturally been a part of the Australian environment, every bushfire season still has a grave effect on the Australian landscape, native wildlife and its people. Vegetation is destroyed – promoting new growth, however, the natural habitats of wildlife and lives can be lost, leaving people tirelessly working hard to rebuild what they once had. This season has currently claimed 33 lives, more than 1,500 homes and at least 11 million hectares destroyed – an area larger than Germany. Each state and their National Parks personnel are relentlessly planning and working on the recovery of walking tracks, campsites and infrastructure demolished by the fires and collaboratively working to open their doors to tourism as quickly as possible. Here’s a lowdown on what’s been going on in South Australia,…

THE recent bushfires across Victoria’s High Country have devastated the region and left a trail of destruction that is truly unbelievable. Lives were lost, houses were gutted, farmland and forests were scorched, and hordes of native wildlife and livestock were killed. The fires caused mass evacuations across the region during one of its busiest periods, leaving many without jobs and income usually generated by tourists. Many villages became ghost-towns when they would normally be swarming with holidaymakers. It’s important to know there are still hundreds of parks, towns and regions across Victoria that have not been directly impacted by bushfire. These areas are open for business and need your support now more than ever. Looking for ideas on where to go? Now is the time to plan your next trip…

STEVE and I stand before a cluster of bush studiously eyeing the map. Surely we’re not in the right spot, although we’re in agreement: this is definitely the point we leave the Overland Track. It’d be helpful now if we had a superpower that could turn us into wombats. The terrain ahead is a scrubby scoparia swamp. We plunge in and it’s not long until my feet are sinking at random intervals. I wobble, instinctively clutching scoparia to steady myself, but it’s too spiky to hold. We’re approaching the Du Cane Range, hauling ourselves up towards the aptly named Falling Mountain. This rocky stack looks prone to imminent collapse. This is the only bush bashing section we have (pending navigational disaster). I use branches for leverage. My backpack periodically snags…

“I wanted you to see what real courage is, instead of getting the idea that courage is a man with a gun in his hand. It’s when you know you’re licked before you begin but you begin anyway and you see it through no matter what.” – Harper Lee, To Kill a Mockingbird “There is an ecstasy that marks the summit of life, and beyond which life cannot rise. And such is the paradox of living, this ecstasy comes when one is most alive, and it comes as a complete forgetfulness that one is alive. This ecstasy, this orgetfulness of living, comes to the artist, caught up and out of himself in a sheet of flame; it comes to the soldier, war-mad in a stricken field and refusing quarter; and…

RENOWNED as a true wilderness walk, the 65km Overland Track will take me north to south from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair through the rugged Tasmanian highlands. I’m carrying all my own gear and food, and sleeping in a tent, so I’m packing reliable, compact, lightweight and waterproof items. The weather can change quickly and dramatically in this remote alpine area, and there are no phone reception or charging facilities. Whenever possible, I’m supporting outdoor brands that are trying to minimise their footprint and produce products more sustainably. Need to know: For info on walking the Overland Track visit parks.tas.gov.au Salomon women’s X-Ultra Mid GTX hiking boots Supportive waterproof boots with good traction are essential for the Overland Track. With creek beds, rocks, slippery moss, and some steep ascents…

1 A tribute to the reptiles and amphibians of Australia and NZ Come along on the adventure of 25 of the best herpetological photographers as they do what they do best. To create this book, each photographer chose five of their most inspiring images and submitted a story alongside each shot. It reads like an adventurer’s diary; experience their hardships and sacrifices, celebrate in the good luck, and understand the skills required to capture the final image. Hop through 125 photographs showcasing the Cape York graceful tree frog to the amethystine python – a book for the reptile and photography lover alike. RRP: $49.99 Web: au.newhollandpublishers.com 2 Insects of the world If you love your creepy crawlies, then pay close attention. Featuring 1000 images from ants, bees and beetles, to…

Sarah Stackman’s boast of sneaking in cheese past Aussie quarantine (Say Cheese, Feb-Mar 2020) is not something bushwalkers and adventurers should be part of. Generally if cheese is declared the Customs people usually let it in. But the point is in the principle that is made. Customs and Quarantine are there to help us protect our environment. They are not the enemy to be beaten. Mark Ridgeway Hi Mark, I’m sorry my article caused you concern – you are correct I did overdo the hyperbole. It was not meant to be in the final version but slipped my notice. I can assure you I did declare it, and it was delicious. I too am very concerned about quarantine, I have written several articles for GRW about boot disease safety, I…

WE’D booked a December trip to world heritage listed Fraser Island (K’Gari), off the southern coast of Queensland, accessible via barge trip from Inskip Point. We enjoy completing walks as a family and find them great bonding experiences with the added bonuses of exercise, fresh air and nature thrown in. Fraser also boasts one of the state’s Great Walks, covering over 100km of GPSmarked, signposted walking tracks including ‘walker only’ campsites. The security of the clearly marked and mapped tracks, plus the exclusively developed camping sites give peace of mind that you’ll be catered for whether completing a short day hike, or embarking on an epic trek. To say we were looking forward to going was an understatement. We spent much of 2019 planning for our trip. However in October…

Annapurna, Nepal Dawn Keirle, Coonabarabran, NSW Camera: Samsung S5 phone Dawn: “Whilst trekking in the Annapurna region of Nepal, we stopped beside a small, murky-looking and insignificant lake for a short break. We walked to the opposite side of the lake to check out a small overgrown stupa. What we discovered, when looking back, was this stunning view and reflections.” Abisko National Park, Swedish Lapland Cathy Hennessey, Castle Hill, NSW | Camera: Canon EOS 200D II Cathy: “I recently took my four children aged 12, 16, 18 and 20 to Abisko National Park in Swedish Lapland. We spent three days exploring the wilderness in – 6°C, witnessing snow covered mountains, frozen waterfalls and lakes, spectacular sunsets and even the northern lights. A truly amazing bucket list experience!”…

Great Walks spoke to Snowy Mountains tour guide Mike Edmondson about the situation on the ground in the Kosciuszko region. GRW: What’s your impression of the bushfire damage in Kosciuszko NP? It’s been devastating up the northern end of the park with a huge firestorm with 170+ kph winds and 70°C+ temperatures in early January, just after the park was closed for safety. Much wildlife and vegetation, historic huts (including one of my favourites, Four Mile Hut) and Mt. Selwyn Ski resort severely burnt. GRW: What would you say to people who are hesitant to return to the area to bushwalk? The park is open at moment in the unburnt areas for hiking, so please come back and support the local businesses that have been dormant since the park and…

MOST people lucky enough to have walked all or part of the 223km Larapinta Trail in the West MacDonnell Ranges, near Alice Springs, would agree it’s the combination of stunning scenery and the rich Indigenous history that combine to make the Larapinta one of the most popular multi-day walks in Australia today. Home to the Arrernte (pron: Ah-runda) people, whose ancestors have inhabited the region for around 40,000 years, the Larapinta is part of Tyurrentye (as the area is known to the Traditional Owners) and is a living landscape with deep spiritual significance to the 16 traditional estates that make up the area. The whole area abounds with sacred sites and archaeological sites and many dreaming tracks (or songlines as they are commonly known), such as the taye (moon man)…

PATAGONIA is well documented as a top hiking destination, but most of the coverage you’ll see is around Torres del Paine NP and Los Glaciares NP in Chile and Argentina respectively. While these excellent circuits are generally considered to be pretty far south, and they certainly feel like it on a cold night, they are actually only roughly half way between the Equator and the South Pole. There is a whole lot more rugged and less explored territory even further into the high latitudes. Great Walks donned its thermals and went to investigate some of the best hiking at the ends of the earth. Tierra del Fuego National Park Just outside the Argentine city of Ushuaia, heavily marketed as the ‘Southernmost city in the world’, is the national park named…

HIKING with a group is a great way to push your cooking boundaries with the support of your friends, and there is nothing like coming together at the end of a long day to debrief and share a meal. After a recent multi-day bushwalk Great Walks worked out a few tips to dining in the outdoors with a group. Allergies/preferences Work out everyone’s food allergies. Nut allergies? Lactose free? Gluten free? Vegan? Vegetarian? Preferences? Anyone hate scroggin (if that is even a possibility)? Make sure you cater for everyone. If most of your group is vegetarian, why not give it a go too? Vegetarian options: Campers Pantry Pea and Cauliflower Dahl was a hit with us, even with the meat eaters of our group. The Back Country Cuisine Pasta Veg…

1 Your toothbrush is a feather 2 You use soap for toothpaste 3 You wear a newspaper hat 4 Your sleeping mat is piece of cardboard 5 Your tent pegs are chopsticks 6 You cut all the tags off your clothes 7 You’ve replaced your shoelaces with dental floss 8 You leave your heavy thoughts at home 9 You’ve ditched the first aid kit and just blow kisses on any injury 10 Your rucksack is an empty beer case reinforced with duct tape 11 Speaking of duct tape, that’s how you made your gaiters 12 Speaking of gaiters, they make pretty good plates 13 You’ve ditched the filter and just suck water through your teeth 14 If you need gloves you use your one other pair of socks 15 You…

IT was winter 1982 when I tagged along on a weekend walk with my old schoolmate Michael and his new fiancée Gilda. I was a young Army officer and Michael a tough Army Reserve Commando. We were west of Mittagong in steep, rugged country around Tomat Creek, a tributary of the Wollondilly River. We’d parked close to river and set off early on Saturday up into the country behind Tomat Creek Falls, venturing into the foreboding Murderer’s Gully, the exit point of which provided a suitable compact campsite. Up went Michael’s Paddymade Jenolan Japara pup tent, while I pitched my hoochie and we settled to a satisfying meal as the sun set. After a blissful sleep and tasty breakfast, we set off along the confined gully of Tomat Creek heading…

NZ’S iconic Hollyford Track 3-day guided walk shows why Fiordland NP is the gem in the South Island’s crown. Following your experienced guide you’ll traverse this historic valley by foot, jet boat and finally helicopter as your guide brings to life the diversity of the landscape, vegetation, wildlife and history. Need to know For info on the Hollyford Track guided walk visit hollyfordtrack. com. For info on doing the walk independently and staying in the DOC public huts visit doc.govt.nz…