Are chillies interchangeable? I never know which variety to use, and when to go for fresh, dried, powder or flakes.
Emily, London, England, UK
“We have hundreds of varieties of chillies in Mexico,” says Adriana Cavita, chef-owner of Cavita in London. And that’s before considering those grown in other parts of the world (India, Thailand, Spain, for example). It’s no wonder Emily is confused.
Different chillies perform different roles in cooking, and they’re not just about heat; chillies bring sweet, sour, fruity, earthy and smoky notes, too. “Look at the dish as a whole and assess,” says Noor Murad, head of the OTK (that’s the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen). “For stews and broths, you can generally go with whatever dried chillies you like,” she adds. “If, for example, the recipe calls…