Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2020 i Harper's Bazaar

WELCOME TO MY FIRST ISSUE as editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar. This isn’t my first issue of Bazaar, though. I was a fashion editor at the magazine 20 years ago. My job was to edit and produce the shopping section of the magazine, and the section always opened with a model. Our bookings editor at the time told me that there was a new model who was “going to be a star.” A few days later, I styled Liya Kebede for the April 2001 issue, marking the first time she appeared in Bazaar, and the start of our friendship. In the years since, she has walked for every major designer and covered every major fashion magazine except this one. I’m thrilled that my first issue as editor in chief…

“During this period, music has been very helpful and soothing—I’ve revisited a lot of music from when I was younger, from a lot of different worlds,” says Dev Hynes. When creating his playlist, he referenced a mix of older and newer releases, some that represent literal firsts and others that embody freshness or first-time emotions. “I picked ‘Behold That Star,’ by Marian Anderson, because she was the first Black opera singer to solo at the Met,” he explains. “‘Blue Sky and Yellow Sunflower,’ by Susumu Yokota, feels like spring, or a new day. And ‘It Must Be Love,’ by Labi Siffre, feels like first love.” Listen to Dev’s full playlist exclusively on Apple Music.…

EVERY DECISION we make with what we wear, whether subconscious or intentional, is a method of communicating. It’s primordial. When it comes to buying anything, I try to think of it as a long-term attachment. If it’s not going to last, or if it’s going to fall apart or date too quickly, I try to avoid it. Obviously this doesn’t apply to every last purchase (buying a pair of Converse sneakers doesn’t carry the same weight as a Chanel bag), but I don’t buy for the short term. I inherited my Chanel 2.55 bag from my mother, who herself had been gifted it. Whenever I wear it I’m wearing her history. I know it sounds like an inflated idea, but our attachments to objects and the paths they’ve all taken…

I’m standing in a checkout line at Urban Outfitters in Union Square clutching $44, waiting to pay for a green military jacket. It is a muggy day in the middle of July, and I am on my lunch break from a temp job as a secretary at a doctor’s office in Midtown. I’m wearing a pair of jean shorts and an orange chiffon blouse with a drawstring neckline. Slipping my arms into that jacket moments earlier in the dressing room, I sensed an internal click, the locking in of two different parts, like bike shoes that had finally found a set of pedals. I could feel the momentum beneath me. It was like I was moving a little easier, or faster, or both. I didn’t know where I was going,…

The first-ever Asia Society Triennial, titled “We Do Not Dream Alone” after a Yoko Ono maxim, opened on October 27 at three venues in New York. Among the more than 40 artists and collectives from 21 countries featured is Pakistani American artist Shahzia Sikander, whose work spans mosaics, drawing, animation, and sculpture, and grapples with themes of race and colonialism. Sikander’s solo show, which opens on November 5 at Sean Kelly Gallery, provides a more comprehensive look at her oeuvre.…

The wellness landscape has expanded far beyond wheatgrass shots. In the past few years, there’s been a wave of pills, powders, gummies, and tinctures all touting immunity-boosting benefits, and interest in these products has only surged since the pandemic hit. Goop has created an entire Immunity Shop, and retailers like Net-a-Porter and Sephora are offering health supplements right next to luxury skin care and fragrance. “There are so many concoctions out there, people are constantly asking what’s legitimate,” says Purvi Parikh, M.D., an allergist and immunologist at NYU Langone Health. “To be honest, most immunity-boosting supplements aren’t credible,” she says. Your best bet, says Parikh, is “smart lifestyle choices.” Here, how to best strengthen your defenses—and it doesn’t even have to cost much. AIM FOR BALANCE First, you don’t want…

Paris, via Zoom. Liya Kebede is sitting at a desk in a room where, behind her a wall of dark wood shelves displays a few framed photographs, papers, books. She refers to this room as “just an office that I use.” As for so many of us, I interpret her answer as an effect of this year, the prolonged temporariness of working and living and living and working from home. Any surface has become the desk. Still, even on Zoom, Kebede is very much a model at home—the veneer of commonality suspended by her crisp white shirt. A button-down with a laissez-faire collar, loose exactly where it ought to be. It’s the sort of shirt one buys hoping it will look the way it looks on Kebede but never does.…

RICHARD AVEDON’S April 1965 fashion story with model Donyale Luna introduced the world to a woman who would become the first Black model to grace the cover of a major fashion magazine. In January of that year, Luna, a tall, lanky 19-year-old from Detroit who’d been brought to the attention of Bazaar editors Nancy White and China Machado by photographer David McCabe, actually made her debut on the cover, but in a painterly illustration in which her skin tone appeared lighter. The Avedon story—part of a special edition he guest-edited to mark his 20th year at Bazaar—was meant to be Luna’s official coming out. She would go on to become one the most famous models of the era, appearing on the covers of other prominent magazines as well as in…

“Blue Sky and Yellow Sunflower” —Susumu Yokota “For a Reason” —Lifetones “It Must Be Love” —Labi Siffre “Every N**** Is a Star” —KeiyaA “Don’t You See It?” —Loraine James (featuring Jonnine) “Behold That Star” —Marian Anderson (featuring Franz Rupp) “Transition East” —Angel Bat Dawid…

On any given day, United States Postal Service carrier Nicole Schloss could be on her feet anywhere from 12 to 14 hours. “Because of the pandemic, we’re working more than ever,” says the Brooklyn resident. “But I love getting to talk to everybody on my route. Anything they need, we’re here for them.” Schloss has become an expert on comfortable walking shoes, naming New Balance’s Postal style (she goes through two pairs a year) as her go-to. “We’re on our feet so long, we sometimes come home in pain,” she says. “So something nice and soft with insoles, I’d say that’s the perfect walking shoe.” PRO PICKS…

I used to teach a writing workshop for teenagers who had just been released from detention—a few who had recently left Rikers. My workshop was not loved. It was, in fact, hated. Only one student showed up regularly to the Lower East Side youth center for sessions. One time, I made him read the William Carlos Williams poem “This Is Just to Say.” Then we had to write our own versions. Mine was addressed to a child stealing plums. “You’d yell at a hungry kid?” was his input during constructive criticism time. “This class is worse than Rikers.” Despite myself, I laughed. I laughed at almost everything this kid said or wrote, even when it was off-color. Especially then. One day, I brought in a recording of nature sounds—rain falling,…

THE CLIMATE CRISIS has loomed large lately, with wildfires and superstorms becoming more frequent, while the months of lockdown and social distancing are showing the impact of changed behaviors on the environment. According to an August consumer survey by Coresight Research, shoppers have become more focused on sustainability during the coronavirus pandemic, with 29 percent of respondents saying that it’s become more of a priority in their purchasing decisions. That sounds like good news for the planet, but the reality is more complicated. “Plot twist: There is no such thing as ‘sustainable fashion,’” says Maxine Bédat, founder and director of the New Standard Institute (NSI), a New York-based fashion policy think tank. “We need to move away from this sort of wishy-washy sustainability—which can mean anything to anybody—to measurable, concrete,…

HOW MUCH OF THESE HILLS IS GOLD By C Pam Zhang (Riverhead Books) Riverhead Books) “I didn’t decide to write this book; it haunted me,” says C Pam Zhang of her powerful freshman novel. “It speaks, in a queered language, of many hurts I carried around for years, unable to address them while I lived in the thick of them.” Set during the American Gold Rush, it recounts the harrowing journey of two newly orphaned Chinese-American children who travel through California’s unforgiving terrain with their father’s corpse in search of a worthy burial place. Addressing grief, loss, loneliness, race, immigration, and environmental devastation, it’s a stunningly complex read inspired by Zhang’s lived reality as a Beijing-born immigrant who was raised in different cities throughout the U.S. “I have always lived…

One of the most exciting stories in beauty right now isn’t about the next big ingredient but about new access to information. “Artificial intelligence makes the beauty space way more interesting because it has finally given brands—even heritage ones—the ability to use data in a way that removes doubt for consumers who typically walk down a cosmetic aisle with zero explanation and guidance,” says Ranella Hirsch, M.D., a dermatologist in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and a cofounder of Atolla. The custom skin-care brand, which Hirsch launched in 2019 with a designer and data scientist from MIT, uses AI to formulate personalized serums based on your skin type and concerns, along with factors like diet and environmental stressors. Monthly at-home skin assessments measure information like pH levels and moisture to adapt the formula.…

MY MOTHER always taught me, “You may be the first to do many things, never be the last.” I’ve always carried that with me. It’s an honor to be on the Democratic presidential ticket as the first Black woman and first Indian American woman. One of my proudest “firsts” was when I became the attorney general of California, the first Black woman to become attorney general in the state. But I didn’t set out to be the “first.” When I decided to pursue a career in public service, it was—and still is—about making people’s lives better. I’ve always asked myself how I could help better our communities and keep our children safe. My only client has always been the People. I will never forget stepping into the courtroom and saying,…

COLLIER SCHORR PHOTOGRAPHER “A Study in Contrasts,” page 86 “Writing about the hardcore scene for The Village Voice in college. It was the first creative work I got paid for and the first time someone in a position of power told me that someone my age had a worthy opinion.” GERARD SANTOS SET DESIGNER “A Study in Contrasts,” page 86 “During quarantine, I walked across the Williamsburg Bridge for the very first time. Despite all that the city’s been through these last few months, I took in the beautiful view and thought, ‘I still love New York.’” ERICA GONZALES CULTURE & CONTENT STRATEGY EDITOR, Bazaar.com “My first time voting, I trekked from Manhattan to my polling place in New Jersey. On the way back, my bus got stuck in traffic, hit another…

What do you get when you combine the most coveted boot features of the season? Our exclusive Hero from emerging brand Labucq. Handcrafted in Italy, the hybrid Chelsea features a chunky lug sole that will withstand any precipitation and an elastic gore, which allows for a struggle-free pull-on. Walk, stomp, dance, explore—what you will—in these boots.…

IN THE HIGH-BROW, gatekept world of fine art and literature, artist Toyin Ojih Odutola’s and novelist Yaa Gyasi’s names keep coming up. They aren’t just part of the cultural dialogue; they’re helping to shift it, bringing their unique perspectives to the staid and traditional formulations for making novels and art. As young Black women from West Africa (Ojih Odutola was born in Nigeria, Gyasi in Ghana) who grew up in Huntsville, Alabama, they often find themselves representing the first or only voice in the room. The 35-year-old Ojih Odutola’s distinctive pen-and-charcoal portraits—at once monumental and impressionistic, and known for their particular attention to the texture and topography of skin—have been shown at the Whitney Museum of American Art, the Brooklyn Museum, and the Studio Museum in Harlem, and are in…

HARRIS REED—who stands six feet nine in five-inch platform boots—dreams big. The 24-year-old designer, who identifies as gender-fluid, outfitted Harry Styles with a world tour’s worth of lamé pussy-bow blouses and worked on Gucci’s design team, all while he was a student at the London art and design school Central Saint Martins. When the pandemic canceled the graduate showcase this past May, he found a way to reach an even bigger audience by creating a giant disc hat filter on Instagram, “worn” by Kaia Gerber, Jeremy O. Harris, Kiernan Shipka, and more than a million other fans. “I’d like to eradicate the categories of menswear and womenswear,” Reed says. “Fluidity offers an alternate way of being, crossing and merging masculine and feminine.” Reed’s design philosophy takes further ideas about gender…

RULE ONE TAKE A FEW PICTURES To see what you’re working with, start by taking a selfie with a relaxed, natural expression. “The camera does not lie,” says Sania Vucetaj, founder of Sania’s Brow Bar in New York. A photo will show you exactly where there’s asymmetry, something that’s difficult to spot when you’re looking in a mirror (where we tend to focus on one brow at a time). And while eyebrows don’t have to be identical, they should be as symmetrical as possible, particularly if they’re on the fuller side. “Otherwise they’ll look heavy and overwhelming, especially above a face mask,” Vucetaj says. RULE TWO DON’T FIGHT YOUR NATURAL SHAPE When doing your own brows, it’s risky to attempt a major transformation. Instead “aim for maintenance,” says Chanel Brow…

Michelle Wong’s love affair with skin care started when she was getting her Ph.D. in medicinal and supramolecular chemistry, and she wanted to find products that performed on a budget. As a grad student in Sydney poring over the latest ingredient research, Wong quickly realized that most other skin-care buffs without her background didn’t have access to scientific studies. From there the Lab Muffin Beauty Science blog was born, in which she simplifies the language of skin care. Unsurprisingly, Lab Muffin wisdom includes wearing sunscreen. “So many anti-aging products make skin more susceptible to sun damage, so SPF is essential,” says Wong. Her favorite brand: Ultraceuticals. She also includes product reviews (“Paula’s Choice liquid exfoliant is the best I’ve ever tried”), and offers science-backed takes on industry trends. On clean…

Face-Off Page 41 Patek Philippe watch, $34,065. Piaget Vintage Inspiration watch, $27,300. Portrait Mode Page 42 Polo Ralph Lauren shirt, $145. ralphlauren.com. Valani Atelier x Gemfields earrings (on shoulders), price upon request. valaniatelier.com. Valani Atelier x Gemfields earrings (top right), price upon request. valaniatelier.com. Cartier Coloratura High Jewelry ring (above pocket), price upon request. 800-CARTIER. Valani Atelier x Gemfields ring (center), price upon request. valaniatelier.com. Pomellato earrings (on pocket, top), $26,900. pomellato.com. James Ganh x Fabergé heart earring (top, on pocket), price upon request. 832-940-0188. Valani Atelier x Gemfields earrings, price upon request. valaniatelier.com. Buccellati necklace (top), $160,000. buccellati.com. Pomellato bracelet (middle), $72,600. pomellato.com. Cartier Coloratura High Jewelry necklace (bottom), price upon request. 800-CARTIER. Re/Done shirt, $290. shopredone.com. Chanel High Jewelry brooch, price upon request. 800-550-0005. Harry Winston earrings (on collar), prices…