August 25, Saturday, 8 am. It’s cloudy, cool and surprisingly quiet outside the East Gate of the Taj Mahal: no queue, no scuffle, no fainting tourists, no ‘next to hell’ experience. A man in casual clothes tears the ticket in two. Ask him why he is not in uniform, when will digital ticketing start, should one leave the Taj in three hours, as has been announced, and he gives you a withering look. Inside, tourists drift all over Charbagh, frolic with selfie sticks and get shouted at for dipping their feet into the fountain streams. A VIP from an African republic graces the marble platform alone, smiling at multiple cameras, while rifle-toting jawans shoo everyone out of the way. He is a minor VIP, so the Taj won’t be closed…