Indholdsfortegnelse for Fall 2021 i L'Officiel Monaco

The french designer Aurelia Belliti has broken new ground in May 2021, by creating the tailor suit “smocking swimsuit”: The parisian designer pushes elegance to its paroxysm! We can see charismatic figures, with square collar naked-back, sharp or “Art deco” lines. Aurelia Belliti, has the idea of a smocking swimsuit with its tiny buttons, its flat pockets, wrap-collar; we can also see a polo-shirt collar swimsuit, as well as an officer-collar with a thin belt, and “military paws”. “Blazer” version is about to come out. An amazing outfit might be to wear it by itself, as well as with a little skurt or silk pant. Elegant in any occasion!…

“A Future Together” is the name of the two-minute and 33-second short film by Wim Wenders, which hints at the love story of a director and a sound engineer alongside the current collection by Salvatore Ferragamo. What was your first reaction when you were offered the opportunity to shoot a fashion short film? When the first request came, I was quite excited. I have not shot anything for a long time because of the pandemic, but I had good experiences with fashion topics in the past. Ferragamo’s proposal was interesting and gave me the freedom to bring in something of my own. A few years ago I read the book about the founder Salvatore Ferragamo and his life story, which took him from Naples to the East Coast and then…

Review For a long time, the so-called lipstick index was considered a reliable economic indicator. Despite the fact that the pandemic has subsided, however, Leonard Lauder‘s thesis that lipstick sales increase in times of crisis will have to be adjusted by compulsion. Clearly, it is thanks to the mandatory use of masks that the focus of decorative cosmetics has shifted to the upper half of the face, thus giving overall attention to the eye area. Eyecatcher From geometric cat eyes in neon pink and electrifying turquoise, which Pat McGrath came up with for the Versace show, to futuristic silver accents at Coperni, which Fara Homidi set with applied crystals – gloss, vsible from a distance! Hélène Vasnier, who was inspired by the “Galleria Borghese” for the make-up of Giambattista Valli‘s…

Pumps with Janelle buckle from the Autumn/Winter 2021/22 collection, Bally.…

Your brand has been on the market for almost 20 years now and you have been working in the industry quite a bit longer. How do you think the industry has changed over the last two decades? The remarkable changes in the last two decades are that the rates of production, collections, and content have accelerated and intensified considerably! We have also witnessed the birth of large conglomerates with extraordinary financial means, which have professionalised as much as they have killed the creativity of our industry... The result is a very high degree of complexity in activities, diversification of players, customers, with an increasing marketing. We must multiply ourselves while maintaining consistency! We also observe a real ecological awareness, but it is really not enough and too marketed. One almost…

Unlike any other brand, Vhernier manages to capture the spirit of the times and yet the pieces never just a trend... Vhernier was born with the clear intention of creating “the jewel that does not exist yet”: contemporary, distinct from anything else existing, and with an exceptional fit. We have always refused to follow the conventional codes of traditional jewelry design and have created our own recognisable style: bold volumes, clear shapes built around the body, and always with a certain idea of movement. In the new “Coucher du Soleil” collection, the focus is on bronze – if you go by sport, only the third choice? The use of bronze continues that innovative experimentation for which Vhernier is renowned and which led us to pave the way for the use…

THE GOLDEN 1920S ARE BACK! It may be due to the economically and politically turbulent times or simply to the fact that society has a festive spirit again after a period of lockdown. One thing is for sure: The (at least fashionably) glamorous decade is experiencing a revival. Charleston dresses, headbands, and even garters – just like here at CHANEL decorated with rhinestones – are celebrating a comeback. Bruno Sialelli, a successor of Alber Elbaz at LANVIN, is speaking of himself, as Nicolas Ghesquière speaks of LOUIS VUITTON. “The uncompromising commitment to glamour feels almost radical,” says Sialelli, for instance. – Provocatively beautiful! GRUNGE GIRLS: Rebellious, was a part of the 90’s good reputation. The oversize sweater becomes the main statement piece. Combined with a leopard-print skirt, MAX MARA aims…

MARY KATRANTZOU The 38-year-old born in Greece designer is a graduate of the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and a citizen of London. Mary Katrantzou founded her label 12 years ago – with an ultimate success. Graphic prints and feminine silhouettes are typical of her style. Katrantzou loves to play with trompe l’oeil effects and symmetry, also introduces her fine avant-garde into all areas of her own universe. After collaborations with interior producers, she stroke a bargain for collaboration with Roman jeweler Bulgari. For the Italian jewelry house she designed three bag models and subsequently the bottle of the new fragrance “Omnia”, which was conceived by Alberto Morillas. Back then, when Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel shared the Paris fashion scene, female designers have not had a…

MODEL: Emily Liptow, Modelwerk. ASSISTENCE: Hendrik Soeren Horn.…

You have often collaborated with Maripol, but never before in such a close partnership. How did you meet and how was this collection born? MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI (MGC): I was obsessed with (Maripol) back in the day. I had all of her books. I wanted to know her since my time at Valentino. When I arrived in New York, my only goal was to meet her, but I didn’t know how. By chance, at a dinner with Blondie [Deborah Harry], I was speaking about my passion for Fiorucci, for Maripol, and for her outfits, and she said to me: “I'm a friend of Maripol's!” and called her immediately. We spoke to each other on the phone, and we met the next day. I was a super fan—she was a great…

What is your definition of power woman? History lists many women who have led great people. I could define “power woman” as an active woman who is free to make her own choices. Today women play an important role in Monaco, some hold important positions, run companies, are at the head of certain Monegasque institutions. There is a genuine equity between men and women here. What is special about being a woman in Monaco? It’s a real privilege to be Monegasque! Monaco is a multicultural country and I like it a lot. Women from different cultural backgrounds bring diversity and a different approach to trends or beauty and therefore are the reason for constant evolution. What I like about my team in “Cool Bay” is that we have 11 different…

“FLAMINGO ROOM BY TASHAS”, DUBAI “The ideal place for a nice evening with the girls,” Daria Romanenko explains about the restaurant located in Jumeirah Al Naseem. The name says it all, as retro-style interior is decorated in the soft shades of pink and is entirely Instagram-worthy. The same goes for the artfully arranged dishes, which are served alongside cocktails and relaxing lounge music. Culinary recommendation: “You have to try the tuna tartare and cauliflower with truffle sauce!” “WHITE RABBIT”, MOSCOW The next recommendation takes over one of the first places: “On the 16th floor, in the middle of the historic centre of Moscow, you can enjoy Haute Cuisine as well as a magnificent sight of the city.” Chef Vladimir Mukhin, a fifth-generation chef, is responsible for the innovative menu, interpreting…

Creative potential, international networking and intersections – sounds like the mantras of a teambuilding seminar, put exaggeratedly, but are indeed great challenges for the luxury industry. A segment that would benefit from a little more balance, especially when confronted with a pressure to succeed on a creative and – to be honest – on an economic level. In the past months, we have asked ourselves the question of the golden mean in all areas. Where are the synergies between art and fashion (p. 148), the interface between luxury and comfort (p. 56) or a balance between trends and craftsmanship (p. 120 )? The nearly 200 impressive pages of this issue are our answer and show the grandiose teams who form the supposed opposites. The result – and this is where…

What is the inspiration behind your collaboration? Tommy Hilfiger (TH): New York City was a big inspiration. It’s a collaboration that brings our two worlds together – my Manhattan signature look and Romeo’s Brooklyn street style. Romeo Hunte (RH): We celebrate the creative intersection of Tommy’s design heritage and my deconstruction technique. It was also very important to us to design a collection that challenges the status quo and that anyone can wear, so we put a strong focus on gender-neutral designs. How did you go about designing the collection? TH: Romeo and I share a passion for detail. We wanted to work together to design pieces that showcase great craftsmanship, exceptional fabrics and strong style elements. RH: It was an exciting challenge to take iconic pieces from the archives…

1) ON THE GO: In addition to the launch of the first “Bridal Couture” line, ASHI STUDIOS is once again making a name for itself with its Haute Couture collection. This season’s muse is South African model Georgina Grenville, to whom designer Mohammed Ashi dedicates his collection and who was the model for both the lookbook and the Luigi & Iango campaign. Look from the latest Haute Couture collection, ASHI STUDIO. 2) FESTIVE SPIRIT: designer MICHAEL KORS celebrates the 40th anniversary of his brand. The festivities kicked off with a show in New York’s Times Square with models like Bella Hadid and Naomi Campbell on the catwalk. The American’s signature is all about wearability mixed with a dash of glamour – characteristics of his aesthetic from the very beginning. Trench…

In the best company Ever since designer Maria Grazia Chiuri took over the creative control at Dior, fashion lovers have had a hard time following the time trends. The Italian-born designer has been creating new desirability and It-bags almost on a regular basis. In addition to the revitalization of the “Saddle Bag”, creations such as the “Bobby”, the “Book Tote” or most recently the “Caro Bag” have become indispensable everyday companions. The “St Honoré” model also joins the (wish)list seamlessly since its premiere during the Cruise Collection 2021. Noble origin The model can score points through its unagitated elegance, originally in two different sizes and five colors. Whether made of grained calfskin or smooth box leather, the purist design is convincing, revealing its origins only through the metal snap. Inspired…

Lips are usually the focus of make-up. Why is that so? Peter Philips: Lips stand for sensuality. But over the decades this has changed: It is not only about what attracts men, but also creates a barrier. A woman wearing a perfectly drawn red lipstick attracts attention – she is seductive, attractive, but also intimidating. It’s a very fascinating concept how lipstick has evolved. It used to be all about being pretty and having nothing to say. Today, red lips mean: look at me and listen to what I have to say! Your latest creation, the “Rouge Dior Forever Liquid”, also focuses on the lips. What is so special about it? We have tried to achieve the ultimate: comfort and long life. Because when the pandemic started, we saw that…

Let’s go back in time: As a little girl, you made your first watch as a present fo your parents – out of aluminium foil? Even before I knew the alphabet, my father taught me how to read the watch – on a Mickey Mouse watch he brough me from America. That was my first contac with watches. Then I took all sorts of thing – including paper and aluminium foil – to make my own timepiece. I only made one mistake, which had to do with my piano lessons: I wrote “Chopin” and not Chopard on the dial! Chopard is one of the few family-owned companies in the watch industry today What influence did your family have on you becoming the woman you are today? What I love most…

TALENT: Frida Aasen. MAKEUP & HAIR: Asya Yureva. PRODUCTION: Elena Burini. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: Vera Kamenkova. RETOUCH: Feel Good Creative. LOCATION: “Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat.”…

“We need to follow our instincts more than ever” Together with the well-known influencer Chloe Lecareux, Samy Samandjeu built up the agency “V Management”, which is growing rapidly with the success of its top influencers. High time to talk to “Mr. V” about today’s TV channels. Since founding “V Management” in 2017, you have created a strong impact in the fashion world. Is there a formula for success in the digital era? It’s difficult to analyse a moment you are living in, so there is no blueprint for success in the digital world. We, therefore, have to follow our instincts more than ever. However, if there is a formula, it would be the passion to create the best content every day. Some might think that founding a digital agency in…

You once said that perfumes are like a fingerprint of their time. What do you aim to express about the present? It is difficult to define what you want to express when you are just experiencing it. I always work with the triangle of name, bottle and fragrance. These elements are interwoven and have to find each other. When Guerlain created “Shalimar”, he invented the category “Oriental” at the same time. His vision was to express this emotion – from the bottle to the name. I also try to do this with my “Liquors Collection.” I use liqueurs as a muse, but always take a step back and see them as inspiration. After all, no one wants to smell like a drink. (laughs) So you always think about marketing right…

Floral phrases describe the partly floral fragrances with sonorous names such as “Dancing Blossom” or “Cosmic Cloud”. After a long break (the first fragrance “Heures d’Absence” was presented in 1927 and re-launched again in 2020), the French luxury house Louis Vuitton is a latecomer to the lucrative perfume business with the launch of the “Les Parfums” series in 2016, but it has made a name for itself in the olfactory segment several times in the past year. After the launch of “On the Beach”, “Imagination” and “Étoile Filante” as well as the Haute Parfumerie line, the house's perfumer, Jacques Cavallier-Belletrude, is now once again causing a sensation with the five-part series. Eye-catcher The compositions, which combine seemingly contrasting notes such as tobacco and jasmine or tea and amber, are not…

A word that sends bag connoisseurs into raptures: “Birkin”. This bag, designed by the British actress Jane Birkin together with the then Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas in 1983, is in a class of its own and stands for everything that has made Hermès the Holy Grail of luxury bags: Exclusivity. From the customer selection process to the waiting list – the ritual of owning – or should we call it “being allowed to own”– an Hermès is “part of the game” and also the process that the Parisian Maison perfects down to the smallest detail. The “Himalaya Birkin”, dubbed the “rarest handbag in the world”, and its little sister, the even rarer “Himalaya Kelly”, are even more rigorous. It is only the unique art of processing the crocodile leather in…

People today live in a world where they can have everything if they put their mind to it. This costs time and energy, which they gladly spend in order to be able to shape and enjoy their lives as they imagine them. The only premise is that every person needs phases of rest and relaxation to recharge their batteries and allow body and soul to come to rest. The best way to achieve this is to leave the familiar surroundings and visit a place of longing. Magic in Cyprus Often, when it comes to finding the right accommodation, the choice falls on a luxury hotel, as at first glance these places offer exactly what people looking for peace and quiet need. But often they simply want more. This is exactly…

SVITLANA LAVRYNOVYCH Publisher and CEO It always takes a little courage to dream big. Fortunately, L‘Officiel Monaco publisher and CEO Svitlana Lavrynovych not only has plenty of it, but as a business graduate she also brings the requisite entrepreneurial instinct and interpersonal sensitivity to transform them into reality. With the founding of L‘Officiel Monaco she successfully established the 100-year-old brand together with publsiher and managing director Daria Romanenko on the domestic market and has led it to the top in both print and digital sectors in the recent year. However, since the cosmopolitan‘s vision is not limited to the national level, the countries of Austria and Cyprus have also enriched the portfolio. A success story that many would never have dreamed of! FRIDA AASEN Model A big name graces the…

Signal effect A powerful (over-)sign of life, as such the fall/winter 2021/22 collections could be summarized in their entirety. Vivid colors, audacious styles, and expressive designs as far as the eye can see. After giving priority to function for too long, aesthetics are taking now over its place in the everyday wardrobe. Classic example A special attention deserves the latest collection by the fashion pioneers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who have been working together for about a year and a half. While the visionary duo had to start their collaboration in the shadow of the pandemic, the creative cooperation began to blossom due to the positive developments. Optimism is the order of the day, and it runs through all 46 looks, as well as through the characteristic style elements,…

You were born in the post-industrial Belgian city of Charleroi. How has architecture influenced you? It’s not the architecture of Charleroi that inspires me, but rather its harsh, dark side, which is also popular and very lively. I love this city for its contrasts. What inspires me in my work is precisely the contrast between Charleroi and Paris. If I had to keep an image of my childhood, it would be those car trips where we went from a field as far as the eye can see to a club in a hangar whose façade was lit up with bright neon pink. El Dorado, in a Las Vegas spirit. Did your interest in fashion originate with MTV? We didn’t have access to fashion magazines. There were no billboards. So between…

Creative mind The person behind the topical collection – how could it be otherwise – designer Nicolas Ghesquière, who has been responsible for the brand‘s women‘s collection since 2013 and has come up with a special twist for fall/winter 2021/22: the collaboration with the design brand Fornasetti, which is particularly well known to interior connoisseurs for its humorous use of historical motifs. “With this collaboration, I wanted to use the creations to highlight the ongoing modernity of Fornasetti‘s artistic world,” says the Frenchman. Historical collaborations Collaborations with other brands and concepts are nothing new for the Maison, whose founder Louis Vuitton († 1892) would celebrate his 200th birthday this year. Ghesquière‘s predecessor, the U.S. designer Marc Jacobs, regularly delights the creative support of prominent artists such as Takashi Murakami and…

History lesson We have to go back in time in order to follow the genuine worship of the iconic model. The legend says, the history of the “Pasha de Cartier” dates back to 1943, when a special order for the Pasha of Marrakech was made. However, at that time, the model had no name and was not a part of the mass-production until 1985. Soon afterwards it became a wanted collector‘s item. Living legend The passed by year has remodeled the distinctive style of the model with its round shape and square minute track into a trendy variation. Features such as the screw cap for the crown with cabochon sapphire or the bow-shaped lugs, which left and right are in the shape of a pyramid, have of course remained. New…

PRODUCTION: Stephane Blanc. MODEL: Myriem Boukadida, Le Bureau Booking. CASTING: Julien Peltier, Casting Company. MAKE UP: Marina Fialkina. HAIR: David Vincent Marotta. PHOTO ASSISTANT: Amélie Ganot und David Lamb. STYLING ASSISTANT: Michelle Peloso und Elodie Babeu. RETOUCH: Amélie Ganot.…

PETAR PETROV, Austria Petar Petrov’s designs provoke emotion, while still being chic and ultra-wearable. A balance of fluid cuts, boxy shapes, and sumptuous fabrics, his pieces have found fans in numerous celebrities and style stars. Petrov draws inspiration from those surrounding him in Vienna, creating his clothes with precise thoughtfulness. His collections are versatile, well-made, and fit for the modern woman. CONNER IVES, USA Conner Ives has captured his ideal of The American Dream in his collection of the same name. Ives’ graduate collection from Central Saint Martins takes inspiration from the women he grew up around in Bedford, New York. From “The L.A. Crystal Girl” to “The Valedictorian,” these archetypes form a picture of 2010s Americana. The designer maneuvers vintage fabrics and recycled clothes into new pieces in a…

Sylvie Utudjian, also known as Influencer (@uberchique), is not only a Breitling Ambassador, but also a lover of Haute Couture and an Austrian member of the international fashion parade that forms around the Fashion Weeks every year. This time she took L’Officiel Monaco with to the Valentino Haute Couture Days and had a conversation with us during the travel. Her daughter Victoria was also present. She contributes to the preservation of the fashion tradition in Sylvie’s family as well; after all, her grandmother, who is a L’Officiel reader, speaks for the first time. “My first real dress, which I received from my mother for my high school graduation, was a white silk shantung dress from Dolce&Gabbana. It is very Jacky O and from Dolce’s best era, their Heydays. I still…

From natural to expressive – this season variety dominates the trends when it comes to hair & make-up. Classics such as French braids or smokey eyes are reinterpreted and offer plenty of inspiration for varied looks that find their way from the catwalk of Paris, London, Copenhagen New York and Milan into our everyday lives. Sensual moments Wine red, deep violet or cranberry – when it comes to lip colour, this season we’re going for luscious berry and red tones in rich nuances. Important beauty tip: wear the statement lipsticks without a lip liner, as the delicate gradient creates additional tension. The rest of the make-up can be kept simple, with fashion-conscious wearers adding a curved eyeliner to the sensual lip colour – whether classic in black, futuristic in silver…

“GUERLAIN SPA”, PARIS Edisa Shahini enthuses about a “multisensory and overall experience” when she speaks of one of the first spas in the world. Inside heritage-protected walls and at a prime location on the Champs-Élysées, the Maison, founded in 1828, has created a temple of beauty here, the first floor of which has attracted beauty aficionados since 1939. “Every detail is designed to enhance the well-being of body and mind,” says the Austrian who has roots in Kosovo. (6) “LE SPA ROYAL MANSOUR”, MARRAKECH “Like a fairy tale from the 1001 Nights”, this jewel hidden behind the high mud walls, appears in the heart of Marrakech. On 2,500 square metres, you can give yourself over completely to relaxation and enjoy “unique treatments that take you on a divine sensory journey”.…

“ALICE: CURIOSER AND CURIOSER” Those who answer the call of the “Victoria & Albert Museum” can expect an imaginary journey into the fairy tale world of “Alice in Wonderland” according to the promising title. The theatrical show traces its evolution from manuscript to global phenomenon, exploring its 157-year history and its influence on all aspects of life, through to fashion. The exhibits include photographs by Tim Walker, costumes for the “Royal Ballet” and designs by Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. (1) Until December 31, 2021, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, United Kingdom “ROYAL STYLE IN THE MAKING” A more convenient location could hardly have been found for the temporary exhibition: Since the summer, the orangery of “Kensington Palace” has served as a scene for the examination of royal fashion.…

The invisible presence of one of the most beautiful women of the 20th century, Princess Grace of Monaco, is felt in the halls of Monaco’s most historic restaurant, which began its legacy in 1946. In keeping with royal standards, “Rampoldi” made a commitment to put quality right over the top of its priorities. This year, October 16 takes on even greater significance than usual, as the restaurant will organise the ultimate celebration party for their guests and a limited edition “Book of Rampoldi” will be released. Established in 1946, “Rampoldi” quickly became the place to be, especially considering its key location right in the historic Carré d’Or of Monte Carlo. Celebrities from all around the world would come to live the authentic Monegasque experience. With a bit of luck, nowadays…

In defence of the hotel restaurants – often and unjustly, in an international comparison, the Viennese hotel industry is not being praised as much as its culinary concepts. As an exception to the norm, the “Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna” may boast about its own gourmet restaurant, “Edvard”. Despite changing chefs, the luxury temple with its neo-Renais-sance facade near the stock exchange has always succeeded in keeping its standards where they should be: at the very top! With the culinary genius Thomas Pedevilla, however, all previous achievements were surpassed. At some renowned locations, such as the “Ikarus” or “Vila Joya”, the native South Tyrolean, despite his young years, not only brings plenty of experience, but also a fraction of his homeland. Culinary compositions “I like to be inspired by nature and…