AS A CHILD, Hussein Rafih watched as his father, Joe, tried to create the perfect community restaurant, constantly reinventing his menu and aesthetic for the widest appeal. First, there was Elmer’s, his sub and pizza shop, then Casablanca, a fine-dining restaurant inspired by the classic 1942 film.
In the early 1990s, the elder Rafih opened Joe’s Food Emporium, a family-style joint serving a broad selection of pizza, pasta, steaks, local brews, Lebanese fare and potato skins roasted in a top-secret family spice mix. “My dad would say, ‘Have something for as many different customers as you can,’” says Rafih. “What worked was to be versatile.”
In 2019, Hussein teamed up with a group of Halifax investors and bought Joe’s from his father. But then came the pandemic, and he began…