IT’S AN UNUSUAL MUSEUM DIRECTOR who wears camouflage clothing and combat boots to work, but Maj. Gen. Atef Moftah isn’t your typical museum director, and the Grand Egyptian Museum isn’t your typical museum. Seen from a distance, the sprawling, postmodern GEM, as it’s called, is so huge that it’s hard to make sense of. Its jutting, prowlike lines resemble an enormous ship run aground in the desert. Closer up, the museum’s exterior is covered in pyramid motifs, echoing the Pyramids at Giza that rise little more than a mile away. The design may be disorienting, but the message is clear: This is a museum fit for a pharaoh.
An engineer by training, General Moftah is compact and erect, with close-cropped hair, a swift gait, and a take-charge manner, though his…