Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2025 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Tom Burson Belgrade welcomes you with open arms — and enormous portions. My trip introduced me to its gloriously meaty dishes and oft-overlooked culinary traditions, now finding a renewed place in diners’ hearts and bellies. BELGRADE P.54 Orla Thomas A keen swimmer, I delighted in exploring Switzerland’s waterways. Lac Léman was a visual knockout, but Bern’s River Aare was the most fun: locals spend the summer leaping in and out of its waters. SWITZERLAND P.90 Lorna Parkes Coral conservation is one of the most pressing marine protection issues of our time — and Raja Ampat’s reefs are world class. It was a huge privilege to join a new liveaboard voyage looking at the challenges faced in this corner of Indonesia. RAJA AMPAT P.102 Richard James Taylor One forgets that Dublin…

Caen has witnessed its fair share of seismic events. Founded in 1025, the city served as the launchpad for William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066. Nine centuries later, it played host to some of the fiercest fighting of the Second World War, with its medieval turrets lying just 10 miles south of the D-Day landing beaches. The liberation of France in 1944 turned much of the city to rubble. Thankfully, several of its prettiest corners either survived or were lovingly rebuilt, giving creative locals a space to set up shop. Today, Caen makes for an absorbing detour from Paris, its compact historical centre eminently cyclable thanks to an easy-to-use bike hire system. Begin by exploring the Chateau de Caen, built around 1060 to consolidate William the Conqueror’s control…

“We serve granny cuisine here,” says chef Stefan Živković, chuckling. His tall body is folded onto a tiny stool at his makeshift restaurant, Koordinata Street, in Belgrade’s historic Zemun farmers’ market. “You know how granny always wants to prepare something fresh and delicious to feed the family? This is what we do — the old-fashioned way.” Together with his wife, Sara, they plate seasonal dishes using ingredients from their garden. Stefan’s and Sara’s mentality is straightforward: serve fresh food to hungry market-goers. If they’re short on their home-grown ingredients, they’ll source from Stefan’s mother’s farm. If by some chance they’re in need of something else, there’s the market. Nothing travels more than an hour-and-a-half, which is the journey Stefan and Sara make from their farmhouse in the gently rolling land…

In the shuffling rhythms of samba, in its defiance and energy and lust for life, lies the soul of Rio de Janeiro. Samba is heard everywhere across the city, from the terraces of the Maracanã football stadium to the popular Copacabana and Ipanema neighbourhoods, where sunseekers sip caipirinhas and where bossa nova — samba’s relaxed, breezy cousin — was born. But the genre’s heart actually lies far from the centre, in Rio’s lesser-visited North Zone. And now, visitors can explore its development on the new Rota do Samba (Samba Route), an organised walking tour through the North Zone’s gritty Oswaldo Cruz neighbourhood. Led by locals, the route celebrates the fact that this is more than a music genre — it’s the core of a community. A major stop is the…

Beyond the bow of my kayak, the world has turned upside down. Half-submerged tree trunks meet their reflections and branch into twin canopies. Clouds floating above are mirrored below, shading our passage and splitting in our wake. I drop a hand in the water and let it trail beside me, knuckle-deep in sky. “Sometimes, the river acts like a mirror,” says Rafael Ferraz from his kayak, speaking with a singsong lilt. He’s a nature guide at Cristalino Lodge, a wilderness reserve set on the Cristalino River, which flows for 70 miles through the southern Amazon basin in mid-western Brazil. It’s a blackwater river, with a characteristic slow current and inky shade caused by leaching from fallen leaves. On a windless day like this, with nothing but our paddles to ripple…

THE EXPERTS I’ll be in South Africa this autumn and would like to spend a few days in the neighbouring nation of Lesotho. Can I drive there from Durban, and what should I do? The mountainous kingdom of Lesotho is laced with sublime Sani Mountain Escape, which has rondavels (circular stone cottages) at the top of Sani Pass, is a good base for a short self-drive trip. From here you can do various pony-treks and hikes, including a one-day walk up rocky grassland slopes to Thabana Ntlenyana, the highest peak in Southern Africa. Home to the Basotho ethnic group, Lesotho has 14 border posts; the closest to Durban is near Himeville. It’s an easy three-hour drive to that town, but once you’ve passed the South African border post, there’s the dramatic…

A place where epic landscapes meet the warmest of welcomes, and where history and Gaelic traditions come vividly to life, the Hebrides — located off Scotland’s west coast — are steeped in culture. The archipelago can be divided into two main groups, Outer and Inner. Across the 50-odd inhabited islands, food is as deeply rooted in the land and sea as the local myths and legends. Crofting, a traditional form of small-scale farming, has shaped the landscape for centuries. Sheep — cheviots, Hebrideans and blackface — graze on heather-covered hills, producing lamb with a rich and distinctive flavour. The cold, clear waters of the Atlantic provide an unparalleled harvest. Langoustines, once an export delicacy, are now a staple on island tables, alongside hand-dived scallops, rope-grown mussels and lobsters. Stornoway, the…

Spooky season in Transylvania Average temperature highs: 13C Flight time from the UK: 3h20m In central Romania, medieval Bran Castle fires the imagination in macabre ways, particularly around Halloween when it plays heavily on its Dracula links. But away from fiction, Transylvania is a bucolic region of time-capsule villages, pastel-hued old towns and activities to inspire kids. Try hiking, scrambling and zip-lining in the Jurassic-era gorges and waterfalls of Seven Ladder Canyon outside Brașov. Or visit the boating lake and fairground rides at Turda, which are hidden in the cavernous chambers of a 13th-century salt mine. bran-castle.com canionul7scari.ro salinaturda.eu BOOK IT: Families Worldwide’s eight-day Transylvania Halloween Adventure trip costs from £965 per person, excluding flights. familiesworldwide.co.uk Sri Lanka’s beaches, temples & jungle Average temperature highs: 30C  Flight time from the…

1 SALOMON SENSE AERO TANK Lightweight, quick-drying and breathable — this tank top from running heavyweight Salomon ticks all the boxes for keeping fit in hot weather. Glued seams reduce chafing and bulk, antimicrobial, odour-resistant fabric makes it long-lasting, and there’s also reflective details for visibility after dark. Available for both men and women. £55. salomon.com 2 SENNHEISER MOMENTUM SPORT Resistant to shock, dust, sweat and water, these in-ear buds can handle any activity. They’re fully adjustable, with different ear fin and tip sizes for a secure fit, and have adaptive active noise cancelling. Best of all, they feature a heart rate and body temperature tracker, compatible with smart watches, apps and other fitness equipment. £279.99. sennheiser-hearing.com 3 BLACK + BLUM INSULATED BOTTLE BAG For hiking, easy-access hydration is a…

Bumba Meu Boi Parintins Translating as ‘dance my ox’, Bumba Meu Boi is a vibrant folk ritual revolving around the performance of a play in which a dancing ox is killed by cowboys and then resurrected by Indigenous healers — a satire of Brazil’s history of colonialism. The most prominent Bumba Meu Boi performance is held at the Parintins Folklore Festival across the Amazonas city of Parintins in the last weekend of June. It features fireworks, lavish costumes and competing performances of the story by different Indigenous groups. The Parintins festival is the biggest, but traditional Bumba Meu Boi celebrations are held all over Brazil twice a year, in late December as well as June. Bloco de Lama Paraty This unique festival, held in the photogenic Costa Verde town of…

Lençóis Maranhenses National Park In the rainy season, this national park offers one of the most remarkable sights in Brazil. The valleys between its towering white sand dunes fill with water creating a raspberry-ripple ocean of white sand and emerald water. This phenomenon occurs between May and September, during which time many of the lagoons are deep enough to swim in. Take a dip, and you may even find yourself with company in the form of wolf fish, which burrow into the ground during the dry season and re-emerge during each year’s flood. Iguazu Falls The Indigenous Tupi name for Iguazu Falls, ‘Y Ûasu’, means ‘big water’, which pretty much nails it — this is the biggest waterfall system in the world, and one of the most spectacular. Thundering columns…

County Dublin’s coastline offers cliff walks, protected wildlife, historic harbours and a bounty of seafood restaurants and traditional pubs. The 40 mile Dublin Coastal Trail connects them all and lies just a few miles from Dublin city centre. Starting in Skerries, to the north of the city, the trail runs to Killiney, some 30 miles south, and can be followed by rail, road or via the walking trails that link its seaside towns and villages. Most hikers set off from the bustling community of Skerries, with its two sandy beaches and busy port filled with fishing boats that provide much of Dublin’s seafood. The town retains an authentic feel, with people hard at work repairing boats or heading down to the beach for a rowing work out. Hardy coastal plants,…

The view from the Ursa Observatory at Kaivopuisto park, on the southern tip of Helsinki, encapsulates the ruggedness of the Finnish capital. Beyond a wisp of beach, the Gulf of Finland stretches to the horizon, splashed with low-lying islands green with pines. As the evening light wanes, I reach for my phone and tap ‘play’, triggering a soundscape of flitting piano notes. I can’t perceive any particular melody, but there’s reason to their rhyme. Each is assigned to a historic lighthouse in the archipelago, matching their respective tempos as they flash on and off. The notes play together, then taper off, crescendo and dwindle, like a symphony of fireflies. The sound installation, called ‘A Scene II’ and accessible via a dedicated web page, is the brainchild of Mark Niskanen and…

SKOMER ISLAND, WALES Just off the Pembrokeshire coast, Skomer hosts thousands of puffins from April to July. It gets busy with day-trippers, but overnight guests have the island to themselves. Skomer Island Hostel, converted from the barn of an abandoned farmstead, offers simple accommodation. At dusk, the calls of manx shearwaters returning to their burrows create an unforgettable natural symphony. HOW TO DO IT: Stays at Skomer Island Hostel start from £55 per person. welshwildlife.org YORKSHIRE DALES, ENGLAND Broughton Sanctuary near Skipton has transformed over 740 acres of heavily grazed pasture into a thriving ecosystem in just five years; all five species of British owl are now present. The rewilding project has recently introduced two beavers, creating wetland habitats that attract even more birdlife. The sanctuary offers free guided ‘nature…

PLUS A FREE HYDRO FLASK WORTH £38 This special offer includes 10 issues of National Geographic Traveller (UK) for £30 delivered straight to your door, plus a complimentary Hydro Flask worth £38. Visit CHECKOUT.NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/OFFERS and use code ‘DOCT25’ or call 01858 438787 and quote code ‘DOCT25’ T&Cs: Closing date for orders is 1 November 2025. The price shown is a UK Direct Debit offer. Your subscription will begin with the next available issue. If you do not cancel at the end of the subscription period, the subscription will auto-renew by Direct Debit annually at £38. All subscriptions are non-refundable. The Hydro Flasks are subject to availability and for UK subscribers only. Please allow up to four weeks for delivery of the Hydro Flask. This is a limited offer and may…

Tell us about this image. This shot was taken on the way to Bhutan’s Royal Highland Festival, held 3,960m (13,000ft) above sea level near the beautiful village of Laya, close to the Tibetan border. With mountains covering almost 99% of the nation’s territory, the journey there was a long one. It took two days, involved numerous winding roads and ended with a steep hike up to our camp in Laya. Here, we’re driving between Punakha, Bhutan’s former capital, and Gasa, a remote town surrounded by vast peaks in Jigme Dorji National Park. How did you get the shot? I wanted to convey the sense of adventure I felt being driven through Bhutan: the thrill of passing all those mist-covered rivers, forested mountains and ancient monasteries. Hoping to transport readers inside…

ON THE RADAR • WHAT’S NEW • FOOD • EXPERIENCE • INSIDE GUIDE • FAMILY • UK BREAK • BOOKS • KIT LIST Ridha Guedifi, Tunisia Perched on a promontory overlooking Tunisia’s Mediterranean coast, the small town of Sidi Bou Saïd is a labyrinth of blue-shuttered houses and narrow lanes. While wandering its cobbled streets one day, I spotted Ridha selling small bouquets of jasmine and narcissi known as machmoum. He’s been crafting the floral decorations for several years now, bunching together colourful petals for people to pin to their clothes or tuck behind their ears. After I took his portrait beneath one of the town’s azure doorways, he revealed the significance behind jasmine’s delicate white flowers — they’re said to symbolise serenity, purity and happiness. jeremyflintphotography.com @jeremyflintphotography…

Sleep in the shadow of Uluru The Anangu people, who won back control of Uluru in 1985, are poised to launch a hiking tour through the national park that sits around the sacred rock monolith in Australia’s Red Centre. A decade in the making, the five-day, 33-mile guided Uluru-Kata Tjuta Signature Walk has been developed in partnership with the Tasmanian Walking Company. The route passes between Uluru and the sacred rock domes of Kata Tjuta, allowing travellers to camp inside the park for the first time and experience Anangu painting and storytelling. Bookings are open for tours from April 2026. taswalkingco.com.au Follow the northern stars In the tropical Top End, visitors can explore Kakadu National Park’s celestial wonders by boat as part of Indigenous-owned Yellow Water’s new Algohgarrng Night Tours.…

The scene Stretching between the Atlantic and the Spanish border, the province of Alentejo has been hard at work since the 1980s restoring a winemaking inheritance handed down from the Romans. In the face of rivalry (and a little snobbery) from established producers in the northerly Douro region, over 280 wineries and 1,800 growers are today creating Alentejo wines that sing of its rich soil, timeless villages and undulating, sunbaked plains. This is pioneer country when it comes to wine. Many makers experiment wildly with blends. Others have reached back to their Roman roots, resurrecting clay amphora fermentation. A speciality of Alentejo, the winemaking technique has been regulated by the Vinho de Talha DOC since 2010. Vineyards can be visited as part of the Alentejo Wine Route, a tourism project…

For decades, Somerset was chiefly famous for cider, cheddar and ‘scrumpy and western’ band The Wurzels. Glastonbury Festival’s rise gradually shifted the dial on the county’s profile — from agricultural to alternative and, latterly, decidedly cool. Those who visit today will find it a delightful mix of all three. The county’s northern half borders Bristol but also offers dramatic rural landscapes. Cheddar Gorge is the closest thing England has to the Grand Canyon, while the Somerset Wetlands National Nature Reserve extends from the coast at Bridgwater Bay to the atmospheric Avalon Marshes. Somerset is thought to have its roots in the Old English word Somersæte, meaning ‘summerlands’ — historically, flooding meant it was mostly uninhabitable over winter. But since the Middle Ages, honey-hued villages, thriving market towns like Frome and…

As the string of carriages thumped out of Ventimiglia station, I lifted the blind, squinting in the sunlight towards the Ligurian Alps. In the foreground, red-roofed houses were dotted around the cliff face, skinny cypress trees squeezed in between. A regional train drew alongside, our windows sliding past one another. Curious commuters peered into our low-lit dining car, named ‘Côte d’Azur’ — with its scalloped-edge table lamps, crystal and royal blue armchairs, it appeared to onlookers as a time machine, a moment from the 1920s winding along the Italian coast. Cutting into a pearly chunk of John Dory on risotto, my dad closed his eyes in contentment, nodding as a waiter topped up a glass of Pinot Bianco. The previous afternoon, we’d boarded the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond train at…

The mention of Bavaria tends to conjure up certain images: of fairytale-like Neuschwanstein Castle rising against snowy peaks, and beer gardens in Munich where locals sip cloudy weissbier and eat weisswurst sausage. Head to the northern half of the German state and you’ll encounter a subtly different scene. As the Alps retreat, forests and rivers take over. The classic beer here is copper-hued rotbier, accompanied by miniature bratwurst. This distinct region, Franconia, receives comparatively fewer visitors than spots to the south, but it’s no less compelling a candidate for a weekend away. Franconia’s unofficial capital is Nuremberg, one of the republic’s most quietly beautiful cities, surrounded on three sides by forests, its red rooftops enclosed by a horseshoe of greenery. You could lose days wandering the city’s walls and pacing…

As my eyes adjust to the half-light, I discern through a veil of incense a line-up of objects fixed to the temple wall: axe heads, a hollow armadillo shell, a hare pelt. The acolytes, dressed in white, begin to clap slowly, and I join in. As the pace quickens, an elderly woman in front of me starts to spin around in a trance, her eyes rolling, before she collapses. Several others follow — most similarly elderly — but none of the spectators seem concerned. Instead, they raise their palms, believing the elders to be possessed by the spirit of Xangô, the justice orixá (deity) of the Candomblé religion. This is just another Wednesday at Ilê Axé Opó Afonjá, a prominent Candomblé terreiro (temple) in Salvador, the capital of Brazil’s eastern…

“This is food for the soul, not the body.” So says Pili Ramos, owner of Los Pomares, a neighbourhood restaurant and cider house in the coastal city of Gijón. We’re sitting among crowded pavement tables, the scent of cider misting the air as her brother Jorge lifts a bottle at arm’s length above his head to pour sweet-sharp amber fluid into a glass. “He’s a cider-pouring champion,” says Pili. Cider is somewhat of a religion here; Asturias produces 40 million bottles a year. The northwesterly province on Spain’s lush green Costa Verde is a rural region revered for its slow-food practices and hearty cuisine. And its culinary excellence is led by a special group of women. Pili, wearing a white chef’s jacket emblazoned with the logo Club de Guisanderas, is…

Less well known than its wild-child sister — Dubai, which lies 80 miles north east along the coast — the capital of the United Arab Emirates is rapidly becoming one of the region’s most exciting cities. While it’s still the cradle of the Emirates’ oil industry, with all the glass towers, designer-filled malls and corporate headquarters to match, lately it has built a reputation for offering travellers an authentic glimpse of Emirati heritage. And now is the time to plan a visit, with a glittering crop of new galleries and museums set to open soon — and plenty more adventurous options for those keen to explore. The beach is never far away here. Spread across several isles in a natural archipelago, the city offers the chance to kick off your…