It was still dark as Nora and I hiked through Mather Campground on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, winding through campsites as we made our way back to the Arizona Trail (AZT). Just 37 days prior we had stood at the southern terminus of the AZT, setting our sights north towards the Arizona-Utah border. Many things lay between Mexico and Utah: 9,000 foot peaks, hillsides covered in saguaro cacti, rattlesnakes, the Gila River, scorching days and freezing nights, fields of wildflowers growing in burn scars, the Mogollon Rim and, perhaps most exciting, the Grand Canyon.
Nora (my girlfriend and now hiking partner) had never seen the Grand Canyon. So that morning, when she would stare into its depths for the first time, was a very special moment. And…