LONG AGO, the Fedorables, as they were known, gathered at 239 West 4th Street, under a neon sign saluting their patroness, for red-sauce prix fixe on the tables and Wheel of Fortune on the TV. Fedora, which opened in 1952, remained for nearly 60 years an unspoiled, if overripening, institution, christened not for the hat but for its owner, Fedora Dorato, one of three Florentine sisters named for opera heroines. (Fedora, in Umberto Giordano’s opera of 1898, is a Russian princess out to avenge her lover’s murder.) The Fedorables seem to have been girls in the camp, pre-Stonewall sense who, according to a later news item, passed the time placing quarter bets on the color of Vanna White’s dress. Much of the restaurant’s early success was credited to the efforts…
