Indholdsfortegnelse for October 20223 i Olive Magazine

Olive is 20. Yes, we’ve been making every meal special since 2003, when small plates, sourdough and sriracha were ‘new’, and snapping your supper was certifiable! I love how we continue to evolve and play in the world’s greatest food scene – developing our effortless! recipes using smart ingredients and shortcuts to make entertaining easy; bringing you the most up-to-date recipes from independently owned restaurants; and giving a platform to passionate producers, chefs and authors on our twice-weekly podcast. Most of all, I’ve enjoyed your contributions – hearing you share your thoughts and opinions in our unique pro vs punter reviews, and learning from your ratings and comments on recipes at Olivemagazine.com. Now, we’re looking forward to what’s next. Check out Olivemagazine.com and our social channels this month to join…

These three party dishes can easily be doubled to feed an even bigger crowd Aubergine lasagne SERVES 8-10 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 50 MINS | EASY Spread a thin layer of aubergine pasta sauce (from two 280-300g jars, available at shop.Omagazine.com) into the bottom of a 22cm x 32cm baking dish, lay enough fresh lasagne sheets to cover, add a layer of béchamel sauce (from two 500ml cartons) and dot over some more pasta sauce. Grate over a medium courgette (see tip, below), season and add a few more spoons of béchamel. Add another layer of lasagne sheets, a layer of grilled aubergines (from a 400g jar) plus more pasta sauce, followed by another layer of lasagne sheets. Repeat the béchamel, sauce and courgette layer, using up the…

1 Crispy rice squares with sushi-style topping MAKES 24 SQUARES | PREP 45 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING | COOK 55 MINS | EASY | V 250g sushi rice1 tbsp rice wine vinegarvegetable oil, for frying TOPPINGS 100g sriracha mayo½ a large avocado, cut into small slices ponzu seasoning30g pickled ginger, cut into small strips1 nori sheet, cut into 24 small squares mixed sesame seeds 1 Put the rice in a bowl and cover with water. Use your fingers to swirl the rice, then pour away the water – repeat this three times until the water is clear. Transfer to a pan with 400ml of water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 15 mins until all the water is absorbed. Remove from the heat and…

No one does comfort like a five-star hotel, and French chef Yannick Alléno has settled into the Four Seasons in London with the full weight of his 15 Michelin stars. Pavyllon (an outpost of the Paris restaurant of the same name) is run by executive chef Andy Cook when Yannick is away. There’s a huge counter overlooking the open kitchen – sit here for the drama. Try the curry man’ouché; the warm potatoes glazed with lovage mayo, with kombu broth, seaweed and cucumber; and the lamb (recipe, right). Plus, Bar Antoine’s cocktail list by Michele Lombardi can be enjoyed with a bar menu. pavyllonlondon.com Lamb, shiso sauce and anchoïade SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING COOK 20 MINS | MORE EFFORT 4 lamb cutlets, bones trimmed of…

Lemony panna cotta with toasted milk crumbs SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING COOK 20 MINS | EASY 2½ platinum gelatine sheets425ml double cream150ml whole milk1½ tsp vanilla bean paste120g caster sugar1 large unwaxed lemon75g milk powder65g plain flour75g unsalted butter, softened and cubed4 tbsp lemon curd 1 Put the gelatine into a bowl of cold water to soften. Combine the cream, milk, vanilla and 70g of the sugar in a pan, and very gently warm for 5 mins to a simmer – do not let it boil. Remove from the heat and grate in the zest of the lemon, getting the flavourful oils into the cream. Squeeze all the water out of the gelatine and stir into the cream until fully dissolved. Pour into four ramekins and…

Mexico is a rich country. I’m not talking just about the biodiversity but its cultural diversity – geographically there are many different microclimates that enrich the local cuisines. Most Mexicans are very rooted in their local traditions, which helps preserve the flavours, utensils and culinary techniques. One of my favourite things about the food culture of my country is the markets – this is where you can see its history in the food on offer. The markets are full of spices from all over the world including cinnamon, cloves and bay leaves, as well as local fruits and vegetables adapted to this land. The aroma of the Mexican market is like no other, from fresh cut fruits served with lime and chilli to the aroma of freshly cooked barbacoa served…

I’m Sophie Robinson, interior designer, TV presenter and podcast host, and I live outside Lewes in East Sussex with my husband, Tom, who’s a builder, and our son, Arthur. We live in a rural setting surrounded by woodland. When we bought the house we planned to do an extension at the south end which included a large open-plan kitchen-dining room added to the living room. The kitchen was small and dark, situated at the north-facing end of the house, a long walk away from the sunny south-facing views of the garden. But recently we had to shelve our ambitious build. So we simply switched the rooms around instead. Our small kitchen is now a cosy TV snug, and the living room has become a generous family kitchen. Tom set to…

show off DON’T MISS THE NOVEMBER ISSUE OF Olive FOR PART TWO OF OUR 20TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS, INCLUDING A NEW SERIES, HAPPY TO HOST – ON SALE 5 OCTOBER. Halibut com piri-piri At the restaurant this is served with batatas a murro, ‘punched’ potatoes, caramelised onions, parsley and olive oil – we’ve suggested pairing it with sautéed potatoes for ease. SERVES 3-4 | PREP 40 MINS | COOK 1 HR 50 MINS MORE EFFORT 400-500g skin-on halibut fillet 2 tbsp olive oil 25g butter PIRI-PIRI SAUCE 4 small onions, 2 left whole and unpeeled, 2 finely sliced2 large tomatoes2 tbsp olive oil6 large garlic cloves, skins left on2 red chillies ¼ tsp smoked paprika 2 tbsp brandy 2 tbsp Licor Beirão or white port50g butter, melted½ large lemon, zested…

Trendspotting DRY-AGED FISH Dry aging fish, as with meat, changes both the flavour, adding depth and complexity, and texture. Himalayan salt-clad dry-ageing rooms can now be found in restaurants serving a variety of cuisines, like Maru’s omakase menu, where fish such as tuna, brill and trout, and seafood such as squid, are aged for three to eight days; Scully in St James ages fish such as halibut (seven to 10 days); and Ynyshir in Snowdonia where mackerel is a favourite. Restaurant-cum-fishmonger The Sea, The Sea is a specialist in dry aging, where fish from trout and chutoro (fatty tuna, pictured) to bass are hung for use at Leo Carreira’s 14-seat chef’s table in Hackney and his seafood bar in Chelsea as well as for other clients. theseathesea.net BUDGET VS…

effortless! Tomato and vermouth risotto The simplicity of these flavours is so comforting. This is a dish everyone will want a share of. SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY | V 30g butter2 shallots, finely chopped1 garlic clove, crushed250g risotto rice100ml vermouth400g tin of chopped tomatoes2 vegetable stock cubes, dissolved in 1.2 litres of boiling water1 tbsp balsamic vinegar50g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), grated2 tbsp of shredded basil 1 Melt the butter in a large pan and cook the shallots and garlic for 5 mins until softened. Stir in the rice and continue cooking, stirring, for 2-3 mins or until the rice is hot. Add the vermouth and let it cook until absorbed, followed by the tomatoes, pressing down with the back of a…

Hospitality is a turbulent business and never more so than in 2023. Yet select restaurants manage to thrive, not for a year or five but many, many decades. Think of institutions including The Ritz, the seemingly immortal Bentley’s or Le Gavroche, but also once-scrappy upstarts, such as Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant (established in 1975), Northcote (1984) or Le Champignon Sauvage (1987). Which of our current faves will endure in that way? It’s an intriguing question. To celebrate Olive’s 20th anniversary, we gazed into our crystal ball and, with a panel of industry experts, predict 20 restaurants we think could rock it for another 20 years – to 2043 and beyond. MÝSE, HOVINGHAM, NORTH YORKSHIRE Having proven their chops at York’s Le Cochon Aveugle, the Overingtons – Joshua and Victoria –…

HOME BAR HACKS Mix and match martinis Making cocktails when entertaining is time-consuming and takes you away from valuable time with guests. Pre-batching drinks is a lifesaver and works particularly well with simple cocktails including the martini. Take a 700-750ml bottle and fill with two parts gin or vodka to one part dry vermouth and one part water (this replaces the dilution you get from ice). Use a 4:1:1 ratio for a drier martini. Add a few dashes of orange bitters and stash in the freezer ready for icy martinis at the drop of a hat. For parties, make a few different variations and let guests help themselves (keep the frozen bottles in buckets of ice). Up the vermouth to a 50:50 ratio for wet martinis; use a mix of…

Saffron butter guinea fowl with celeriac and greens Saffron and celeriac are an earthy match made in heaven. The celeriac picks up the golden hue and gently poaches in the fragrant, buttery roasting juices. Grains and pulses such as Puy or green lentils, quinoa, spelt or barley all work well. Use cooked pouches or cook your own and add to the dish. SERVES 3 (OR 2 WITH LEFTOVERS) PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY large pinch of saffron50g butter, softened1 guinea fowl 1 celeriac, peeled and cubed1 tbsp olive oil500g cooked mixed grains or lentils 150g kale, cavolo nero or greens½ lemon, juiced 1 Grind the saffron to a powder with a pestle and mortar. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the butter and…

effortless! MAKES 8 x 500ML JARS | PREP 15 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 55 MINS | EASY 2kg damsons2kg granulated sugar1 tbsp butter 1 Sterilise the jars and any other equipment before you start. Put a couple of small plates in the freezer, as you’ll need these later for testing whether the jam is ready (or use a sugar thermometer). 2 Put the damsons into a jam pan or a large, wide, heavy-based pan, leaving the stones in. Add 300ml of water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10-15 mins or until the fruit is soft. 3 Tip in the sugar and stir over a very low heat for 10 mins until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat, bring to a rolling boil,…

Our pro says Naturally, I keep a running Crispy Potato Chart in my head, ranking northern restaurants that have excelled in the field of twice- and thrice-cooked potatoes. Madre’s papas potatoes with garlic crema: steamed, dried, crushed and fried to create crunchy, winningly buttery uber-chips, bear comparison with my No 1, the superlative spuds previously served at Norland’s The Moorcock Inn. Compared to its elegantly seasoned guacamole or the distinctive, authentic nixtamalized corn flavour of its tacos, they may seem peripheral in assessing Madre’s Mexican cred. But finished with roasted habanero vinegar, they are testament to the kitchen’s fastidiousness. A chic space with a warm energy (its design channelling a certain upscale 70s beachside nightclub feel), Madre, abuzz even on Wednesday night, could coast on vibe. But, no. In its…

You’ve probably seen drink pros perform what looks like a preposterous ritual when they taste wine: sniff, swirl, sniff again, sip, suck, swoosh then spit extravagantly into a spittoon. It may seem absurdly ostentatious but there is method in its apparent madness which allows the taster to get the full nuances of everything going on in the glass. The first sniff is to detect primary aromas that leap from the wine when it’s first poured. These may be fruity (citric, tropical, orchard fruits or berries – oddly, grapes are rarely detected), floral or herbaceous, and cover a huge spectrum. The swirl allows other aromatics to make contact with the air and into your nasal cavity when you take a second, deeper sniff – you may get buttery, earthy, spicy, leathery…

Baked St Marcellin, sultanas and red chicory SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT INFUSING COOK 7 MINS | EASY | GF 4 St Marcellin cheeses in ceramic pots (80g each, available at Waitrose)1 large red chicory, leaves separatedhandful of watercresstoast or warm bread, to serve SULTANA PURÉE 100g caster sugar1 earl grey tea bag½ lemon, juiced5g rosemary, finely chopped5g thyme100g sultanas 1 For the sultana purée, bring 100ml of water and the sugar to the boil in a pan until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat, then add the teabag, lemon juice, rosemary and thyme. Infuse for 15 mins, then strain and add the sultanas. Leave to cool and infuse overnight. Drain the sultanas and blitz to a purée in a blender, adding 1-2 tbsp of…

Autumn is a time when my kitchen comes alive once more in earnest and I fall back in love with those slow, careful kitchen crafts like tart making. Seasonal produce at this time of year lends itself to the gentle rhythm of kitchen pottering and asks you to work a little harder than the ripe, showy goods of high summer, but rewards you richly for your efforts. Among the stars of this season are gourds and squashes, whose sweet, nutty flavours are a key part of my autumnal cooking repertoire. The allure of squashes lies in their versatility. From comforting soups that hug the soul on chilly evenings to hearty stews that beg to be shared with loved ones around a candlelit table, these humble gourds inspire creativity and nourish…