Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2024 i Olive Magazine

It’s good to have a bit of colour in your life, even if, truth be told, we are big fans of #brownfood, a speciality of February. This month, we bring you ultra-comforting, crisp, crunchy or squishy, deeply satisfying brown with seasonal highlights of green and yellow, through to bright pink-red. Look out for blood orange with crab toasts in our seasonal feature (p20) and Saltine’s duck (p55), or vitamin C-packed pink grapefruit in the wellness feature on p94, and effortless boozy cherries in a croissant bostock (p36). Plus there’s the sweetcorn in the cover recipe for brunch udon noodles (p38), a beetroot soup with smoked eel and horseradish (p22) or fragrant and startling pink rose with rhubarb in the pavlova on p30, and in the nougat on p70 and Omani…

Cardamom, marzipan and cherry bundt I’ve put all my favourite flavours together in one beautiful velvety cake with buttery crisp edges. Cherries and marzipan are a classic union, only enhanced by the sweet floral edge of green cardamom. This is a glorious cake for a gathering, though leftovers are no hardship as it keeps well in a tin for quite a few days, getting squidgier rather than drying out. It also works with the quantities cut down to a third and cooked for 20-30 minutes in a 20cm round cake tin for a more everyday affair. You can also switch the spices by exchanging the cardamom for 2 tsp of vanilla extract and 2 tsp of ground allspice. SERVES 12 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 55 MINS | EASY…

Ham and sauerkraut croque Based on the classic croque monsieur, this is a great way to use up cooked ham, but shredded turkey or chicken would be great, too. I’ve introduced sauerkraut because I love the flavour thwack it adds to the rich cheese and salty ham combo – kimchi would also work well, and you could pop a fried egg on top to make it a croque madame. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 20g butter, plus extra for spreading1 garlic clove, peeled and bruised with the side of a knife20g plain flour200ml whole milk1 tbsp white wine¼ tsp dijon mustardpinch of ground nutmeg80g grated strong cheese – cheddar, gruyère or a mixture2 large slices of country-style or sourdough bread100g sauerkraut150g ham, chopped…

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day, but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here. Our pro says I feel context is important. Like that time I came home and told my mum I came top in a spelling test but didn’t tell her I was mistakenly put in a class for kids who were learning English as a second language. So with that in mind, Lórian is a deli – but a lovely one and, if it was your local, you’d be thrilled. Head chef Emily Dobbs, and owners Taz Fustok and Jonathan Krauss, have created a supremely welcoming and comfortable space where…

wine Bordeaux Among France’s most well known wine regions, Bordeaux is named after the port city at its centre and encompasses over 60 appellations on either side of the Gironde estuary. Bordeaux and the Brits have a long history, going back some 900 years when King Henry II married Eleanor of Aquitaine and the area fell under English rule. Exports of its red wine, known in England as claret, flourished, and the UK is still one of Bordeaux’s most important markets today. It is home to some of the world’s most prestigious and expensive wines, from famous châteaux including Margaux, Petrus, Latour, Mouton Rothschild and d’Yquem, which few of us will be fortunate (or rich) enough to taste. But it’s a huge area, with more than 8,000 producers making around…

Whether you’re cooking for someone special or sitting down for dinner with your whole family, sharing food is often seen as an expression of love. Princess Cruises understands this, which is why its ships offer so many brilliant dining options that are designed to bring you and your loved ones together for countless memorable meals. A culinary voyage What makes the food on every Princess Cruises ship so special? For a start, it’s all made from scratch – including fresh pastries, steaks that are aged and cut on board, and homemade pasta that’s rolled and shaped by hand every day. And wherever you choose to cruise, you’ll be able to dine like a local thanks to the on-board chefs, who cook up regional dishes that connect you to the culture…

SOME GREAT NATURAL SOURCES OF VITAMIN C blackcurrants | tomatoes | broccoli | peppers | guava | kale | kiwi | citrus | papaya | strawberries HOW DOES VITAMIN C BENEFIT YOUR SKIN? It’s a hugely popular ingredient in skincare – from luxury brands through to dermatologist prescriptions – with many swearing by its brightening and pigmentation-banishing properties. But packing your diet with fresh fruit and vegetables can also help your skin reap the benefits of this essential nutrient. Vitamin C is an antioxidant, so helps protect cells from oxidative stress – which can increase the appearance of ageing. It also contributes to helping your body build more collagen, which is important for healthy skin, and encourages wound healing. Consistency is the key as the body can’t store vitamin C,…

Trendspotting XO SAUCE This is a secret weapon of many chefs, classically made with dried scallops and shrimps along with Jinhua ham, garlic, shallots and chilli. It’s an umami cheerleader, adding pep to many dishes. We’ve seen it in XO duck meat egg fried rice at Hakkasan, on tuna with hazelnut cream and ponzu sauce at Fallow, tried the My Neighbours the Dumplings vegan version and Poon’s WO dish, an old family recipe, and eaten a version made with beef jus and katsuobushi (dried tuna flakes) at Rondo at The Hoxton Holborn in the beef short rib dish shown here. thehoxton.com BUDGET VS BLOWOUT Buy the best, whatever your budget – this month, bean-to-cup coffee machines BREVILLE BARISTA MAX This compact machine brews excellent coffee and comes with all the…

Grilled goat’s cheese with hot honey and pink peppercorns SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | V GF 150g goat’s cheese log with rind (this helps hold the shape when grilling)1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil½ tbsp white wine vinegar1/4 tsp hot honey, plus a drizzle to serve2 handfuls of baby leaf or herb saladbig handful of red grapes, halvedsmall handful of roasted pecans or walnuts, broken in half2 pinches of pink peppercorns, gently crushed 1 Cut the goat’s cheese into 6 small discs and put on a baking tray. 2 Whisk together the oil, vinegar and 1/4 tsp of the honey, then toss with the salad, grapes and pecans. Divide between two plates. 3 Flash the goat’s cheese under a hot grill until golden.…

We keep things traditional in my house on Shrove Tuesday. I don’t think lemon and sugar on thin, soft, buttery crêpes can be bettered, so that’s what we’ll be eating in the evening. But around this time I always host a decadent, pancake-themed weekend brunch for friends, where I like to get a bit more creative with the offering, serve a cocktail and coffee, and make a fun, relaxed morning of it. When we lived in Vancouver, there was a neighbourhood spot not far from our basement flat that made the loveliest, fluffiest stacks of thick pancakes, topped with crispy bacon and served with a jug of maple syrup for drizzling. We queued many a time to get our fill of these delightful creations and it instilled in me a…

There is no more delicious end to a meal than, rather than having to faff about with taxis, the tube or a long drive home, simply walking upstairs to bed. Falling asleep cocooned in luxury, before waking to a stellar breakfast the next morning: this is how life should be lived, right? To aid you in that quest, O has rounded up some of the UK’s most desirable restaurants-with-rooms; dream stays to whet appetites and fire imaginations. Book in, tuck in, chill out. You’re a guest now. COASTAL COOL The Suffolk, Suffolk Be it colour palettes and decorative touches inspired by the Suffolk countryside or a guest pantry where you can pour yourself a complimentary cocktail, every detail of this six-bedroom property has been carefully considered. Enjoy the rooftop sea-view…

Rose ripple and lemon nougat MAKES 20-26 PIECES | PREP 25 MINS PLUS SETTING COOK 20 MINS | MORE EFFORT | V GF oil, for the tin icing sugar, for dusting2 sheets of edible wafer paper, each cut to fit the tin275g roasted almonds100g roasted pistachios1 tbsp dried rose petals, crushed to a powder1 large lemon, zested125g egg whites, room temperature½ tsp cream of tartar 500g granulated sugar500g honey6 tbsp rose syrup (see below) 1 Prepare a 22cm square baking tin by brushing the sides with oil and dusting the bottom with a generous layer of icing sugar. Put one of the wafer papers on top. 2 Tip the nuts, rose petal powder and lemon zest in a bowl and mix well. 3 Put the egg whites and cream of…

COOK LIKE A LOCAL Located on the south-east of the Arabian Peninsula, Oman is nestled in between Iran, India, Pakistan and the East African coast. Being surrounded by such culturally diverse countries and looking out onto the Indian Ocean, Oman’s maritime history has brought us the warm spices of India, such as chillies, cinnamon, turmeric and ginger. Migration from Iran has brought us the essence of colour, as well as sweet and tart flavours from saffron, roses, pomegranates and figs. Oman’s home-grown ingredients are dried limes, also known as black limes or loomi, and dates. Much of our cooking incorporates dried limes, as the practice of drying ingredients to preserve in hot and arid conditions is vital. Dried limes mostly play a role in slow cooking and in dishes where…

PROBIOTICS The definition of a probiotic is that it’s a microorganism that has been proven to have a beneficial effect on your gut health. It occurs naturally in fermented food, like live yogurt or kombucha, kimchi and sauerkraut, or you can find it in a supplement or pill. PREBIOTICS AND FIBRE We also have prebiotics, which are actually the food that the good bacteria are going to thrive on. So, if you want to really help the beneficial bacteria, these are the foods that you want to eat. What they love is plant-based food, and especially dietary fibre. Dietary fibre is a type of carbohydrate we cannot digest. When we eat food, we typically break it down into nutrients that we can absorb. We can’t break down dietary fibre, so…

In season this month: blood oranges • crab • potatoes • carrots • swedes • beetroot • rhubarb Potato, pancetta and taleggio galette SERVES 6 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING COOK 1 HR | EASY 800g waxy potatoes2 large brown onions, finely sliced50g butter2 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, finely grated3 tbsp crème fraîchebunch of thyme, leaves picked galette pastry (see recipe below)plain flour, for dusting150-200g taleggio, thinly sliced150g thinly sliced pancetta 1 egg, beaten1 tsp fennel seeds 1 Peel the potatoes and thinly slice using a mandoline. Put in a colander and rinse away the excess starch, then leave to drain. Put the onions, butter and half of the olive oil in a pan over a medium heat, season well with salt and cook slowly for 10-15…

effortless! 1 Sweetcorn, egg and bacon brunch udon Use frozen sweetcorn for this, then you can scoop out only what you need. Swap in a fried or poached egg for the boiled egg, if you prefer. SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 1 eggsmall pack of udon noodles½ tsp oil2 rashers of streaky bacon1 large or 2-3 small oyster mushrooms11/2 tbsp instant noodle broth (I used Clearspring tsuyu)5-6 tbsp frozen or tinned sweetcorn1 spring onion, finely shreddeddried chilli flakes or shichimi togarashi, to serve 1 Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the egg for 6 mins, cool until warm and then peel. Meanwhile cook the noodles following pack instructions and drain. Put the oil in a frying pan, then fry…

SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS COOK 1 HR 50 MINS | EASY 8-10 cannelloni tubes25g parmesan, finely grated RAGU 2 tbsp olive oil1 carrot, finely chopped1 onion, finely chopped1 celery stick, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed2 tbsp tomato purée500g beef mince1 glass of red wine1 bay leaf400g tin chopped tomatoes200ml beef stock100ml whole milk WHITE SAUCE 25g unsalted butter25g plain flour400ml whole milkgrating of nutmeg 1 First, make the ragu. Heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat and fry the carrot, onion and celery for 15 mins until very tender. Stir in the garlic and tomato purée, and fry for another minute. Add the mince and fry for 6-8 mins or until browned. 2 Pour in the wine and bubble for a few mins, then add…

HOME BAR HACKS Make the fizz go further in February Without the fresh peaches and berries of summer, sparkling wine cocktails can be trickier to create in the colder months. But don’t let that knock your February get-togethers or ‘Palentines’ celebrations on the head. Instead, lean on tropical and citrus fruits that can still be found in good supply. Muddle 1/2 ripe kiwi fruit and 3/4 tbsp elderflower cordial per person, then pass through a sieve into a chilled coupe glass and top with 150ml sparkling wine for a fresh and vibrant kiwi bellini. Alternatively, make your buck’s fizz (orange juice and champagne) using half regular orange juice and half blood orange juice. If you want to keep it local, seek out some forced rhubarb. Raw, thin ribbons of rhubarb…

1 ROTI Crispy, golden and sweet, Thai roti are stuffed with different fruits such as bananas, coconut, raisins and even corn. Once golden and buttery, they are served with little pots of sugar and condensed milk for dipping – you can find these sugary snacks on many roadsides and markets, great to satisfy a sudden sweet craving. 2 HOT & SOUR SOUP Tom yam soup is probably the most famous Thai soup. A common theme throughout Thai cuisine is that of a balance of hot, sweet, sour and salty, and this soup is very characteristic of those. Different versions include prawns or chicken but all have the base flavours of fragrant lemongrass and Makrut lime leaves, and fiery bird’s-eye chillies. Often served at our family and friends get-togethers, it is…

I am a food/travel writer and culinary trends consultant, as well as olive’s monthly trends columnist. I live alone in a small studio flat in Hackney, east London, a few minutes from both Broadway Market and Columbia Road, which are wonderful hot spots for gourmet delis, artisan bakeries and craft coffee. My studio is my own little sanctuary. It’s the place I develop all my recipes, where I do a lot of writing, where I entertain, and also where I chill out in the evenings. A lot happens in this very small space. My kitchen is a galley that forms one side of my main living space, with open shelving at the top and cupboards that hide most of my appliances at the bottom. In the middle is my induction…

Save all your treasured recipes in one place, see reviews before trying something new and add your own comments and ratings at olive magazine.com Cauliflower and chickpea curry SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 30 MINS | EASY | Got a tin of chickpeas in your cupboard? Add them to this protein-rich vegan cauliflower curry for a nutritious meal the whole family will enjoy. 1 cauliflower, broken into small florets1 large onion, roughly chopped4cm piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped2 tbsp groundnut oil1 tbsp madras curry powder2 tsp black mustard seeds2 tsp cumin seeds1 tsp ground turmeric400g tin coconut milk200ml vegetable stock400g tin chickpeas, drainedhandful of coriander, leaves pickedbasmati rice and naans, to serve 1 Bring a pan of salted water to the…