Indholdsfortegnelse for No. 605 i Photography Week

Welcome to the world’s No.1 weekly digital photography magazine. If you’re already a reader, thanks for your continued support and involvement; if you’re new to Photography Week, you’ve come to the right place! In addition to expert advice, brilliant tips and step-by-step tutorials, every issue features interactive galleries of brilliant photos, how-to videos on essential shooting and editing techniques, and in-depth reviews of the latest camera kit. But that’s not the whole story. Photography Week is more than a magazine – it’s a community of like-minded people who are passionate about photography. To get involved, just follow any of the links below and share your shots and comments. JOIN THE PHOTOGRAPHY WEEK COMMUNITY AND START SHARING! FACEBOOK http://bit.ly/39py9lg TWITTER http://bit.ly/2vGadLP FLICKR http://bit.ly/2VIgsJO We’re more than just a magazine – read…

The mode dial is one of the most important parts of any advanced camera, but also one of the most underused. Usually found on top of the body as a physical dial or selector, it allows photographers to quickly switch between different shooting modes and adapt to varied conditions, subjects, and even creative preferences. The acronym PASM refers to the four main exposure modes that are found on most DSLR and mirrorless cameras. In Program mode (P), which is semi-automatic, the camera selects the aperture and shutter speed, but leaves you to adjust settings like ISO, exposure compensation and white balance. In Aperture Priority mode (A or Av), you choose the aperture, and the camera adjusts the shutter speed to achieve the ‘correct’ exposure. Similarly in Shutter Priority mode (S,…

Manual exposure bracketing can be used to capture greater tonal detail in scenes with high dynamic range – think sunrises and sunsets, where the sky is much brighter than the foreground. In manual mode, with the camera on a tripod, set up everything for a balanced exposure, shoot at the ‘correct’ metered exposure, then deliberately over and underexpose by enough increments to avoid clipping. Blending these frames when editing provides more highlight and shadow data than just one single shot. Many modern cameras offer automatic exposure bracketing, but manual mode lets you adapt to any lighting by choosing how you bracket.…

In shutter priority mode, your camera sets the ISO as high as it needs to for a ‘proper exposure’. Set the ISO range you’re comfortable with – you’ll find the minimum and maximum ISO range settings in your camera’s menu – to ensure the camera doesn’t leave you with grainy results. Every camera handles ISO differently; ISO800 will look much noisier on an ageing DSLR than a new mirrorless one with up-to-date processing algorithms, so experiment on non-crucial shots to find the usable range.…

Aperture priority mode is used in situations when controlling the depth of field is crucial. It’s popular with professionals who value the aesthetic quality of their images but want to make quick adjustments in changing lighting conditions. Think wildlife or portrait photographers who want to isolate a subject with a shallow depth of field, or landscape pros setting a smaller aperture to ensure maximum sharpness throughout the frame. To set up your camera for aperture priority mode, turn the mode dial to ‘A’ or ‘Av’ and use the control dials to select your desired aperture value. The camera will meter the scene and automatically adjust the shutter speed accordingly. While aperture priority mode is versatile and widely used, it isn’t suited to fast-moving subjects or use in low light, as…

One of the benefits of mirrorless cameras is that you can preview the effects of your chosen aperture settings through the electronic viewfinder or the camera’s LCD screen. This real-time visualisation helps you gauge how much of the scene is in focus at any given aperture setting – and review its creative potential – before taking the shot. Similarly, if your camera features manual focus peaking (an onscreen visual aid), enable it to check that the right parts of the scene are in focus.…

www.sony.co.uk £1,149/$1,098 Sony has been going about its full-frame mirrorless business for over 10 years now, racking up 73 E-mount lenses along the way. New for 2024, the FE 24-50mm F2.8 G standard zoom and the simultaneously released FE 16-25mm F2.8 G wide-angle zoom are designed to be the most compact and lightweight options in the class of full-frame compatible constant-aperture f/2.8 zooms. So-called ‘trinity’ wide-angle, standard and telephoto zooms with a constant f/2.8 aperture are highly popular the world over, but they’re often bulky, heavy lenses that can feel a bit cumbersome. I often prefer zoom lenses with a slower f/4 aperture, especially for shooting with slinky mirrorless cameras rather than chunky DSLRs, as they’re generally more compact and lightweight, as well as being cheaper to buy. The downside…

Insta360 has unveiled the new 8K video-equipped Insta360 X4 – and as well as setting a new benchmark for 360 cameras, the brand is pitching the X4 as the only action camera you’ll ever need. The X4 is the follow-up to the popular Insta360 X3, and arrives packing some notable upgrades. In addition to 8K video, the camera boasts dramatically improved battery life, offering up to 135 minutes of shooting time. This is the company’s first 360 camera that’s capable of shooting 8K video. Utilising two 180-degree (approx) cameras, the X4 is capable of a shoot first, edit later workflow, because you know that all the action around you will be captured – and, thanks to the new camera’s increased resolution, in greater detail. The single-lens mode can now shoot…

Using manual mode demands a thorough knowledge of exposure principles, which can be a hindrance when subjects are moving or opportunities are fleeting. Changing settings manually can be time-consuming, and can cause missed opportunities in fast-paced action or spontaneous moments. And in changeable light, relying on manual mode can yield poorly exposed images. So when should you use manual? When the light isn’t going to change suddenly, and you have time to consider your settings. And, when you’re working with high-contrast scenes containing extreme light and shadow contrasts, such as landscapes with dark foregrounds and bright skies, manual mode allows you to balance exposure and preserve details in the highlights and shadows. If you’re out in the middle of the day, or working under constant lighting in the studio, it’s…

There are several reasons to measure the exposure difference between two subjects in the frame. One is to ensure they’re both properly exposed (one isn’t significantly brighter or darker), or you might compose your shot more effectively by balancing the exposure between them. To measure the exposure difference, the easiest approach is in manual mode with spot metering selected. First, point the lens at one subject, depress the shutter halfway to take a reading, and then use exposure lock, which allows you to reframe the scene, but maintain the current exposure settings, to focus on the second subject. You can also measure the reflected light by observing the stop difference on the exposure scale at the bottom of the viewfinder, and use this information to select an appropriate ND grad…

A key reason why photographers choose shutter priority mode is for the quickest reactivity with active targets. By linking your chosen autofocus point to spot metering mode, as the focus point moves in order to make your subject sharp, the metering point moves with it. Ideally, this means you’ll get the perfect exposure on your subject every time. Some cameras have the metering point linked to your chosen AF point automatically. If not, check the AF/MF settings in your menu.…

On days when the lighting is changing quickly, such as sunlight passing behind fast-moving clouds, capturing multiple frames rapidly with burst mode increases your chances of a sharp image. This is especially helpful in aperture priority mode, where the shutter speed isn’t the most important part of the equation. For wildlife, burst mode combined with aperture priority can freeze the action and keep motion blur to a minimum, but it relies on having a fast camera buffer and plenty of storage. Simply fire off a burst at the peak of the action.…

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The human eye has the ability to see an extraordinary amount of colour and detail, but we’re only able to see one part of the electromagnetic spectrum. Just outside our visible light range is infrared, and while we can’t see these light waves, we can capture them to create striking images. If you’re serious about infrared photography you’d probably opt for a permanent camera conversion, but the method we’re going to show you is a much more affordable way of shooting infrared, and doesn’t require you to tamper with your camera, so it’s the perfect solution if you want to have a go at this niche genre. All you need is a DSLR or mirrorless camera, and an infrared filter that’s compatible with the filter thread of your lens. Cheap…

Sony has announced the FE 16-25mm f/2.8 G, the companion lens to the recently released Sony FE 24-50mm f/2.8 G (see this issue’s review). In both cases, Sony has taken popular trinity lenses – the 16-35mm and 24-70mm – and preserved their widest focal length while trimming the long end of the zoom range in order to maintain the speed but drastically reduce the size – and cost. In the case of the Sony FE 16-25mm f/2.8 G, that results in a lens that measures just 91mm in length, weighs 409g and costs £1,249 /$1,199. Compare that to the full-fat Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM II – which measures 111.5mm, weighs 547g and costs £2,299 /$2,299 – and you can see that there are immediate advantages to this new ‘mini…

When you lose aperture control, you may end up with a greater depth of field than you anticipated. It’s important to keep an eye on your backdrop, and consider recomposing the frame to avoid clutter or unsightly elements – no one wants a branch or piece of litter ruining their otherwise perfect composition, even if it’s possible to remove it in post-production. Conversely, if you end up with a shallower depth of field but want to incorporate certain elements behind your main subject, you may need to move closer or, if possible, reposition them.…

In aperture priority mode, setting a minimum shutter speed range allows you to prioritise the shutter speed as a variable in exposure control. This way, you still benefit from the semi-automatic exposure adjustments, but the shutter speed won’t fall too low for optimal sharpness. In lower light, setting a minimum shutter speed range can prevent motion blur. Some lenses have image stabilisation built-in, while others require you to use faster minimum shutter speeds to avoid camera shake. Set the minimum shutter speed from your camera menu, and experiment with your gear’s limitations.…

Many pro hybrid cameras have a dedicated video mode, such as Panasonic’s ‘Manual Video mode’, where you can manually set the shutter speed, aperture value and ISO for recording. A general rule is to use a specific shutter speed around double the frame rate you’re filming at – for example, 1/50 sec at 25fps. If your camera doesn’t have a video-specific mode, use manual mode for the most control. Manual white balance will also keep your content consistent, and make any colour grading when editing footage smoother.…

CURLED UP FLAMINGO TOM DRESSEL “When I’m visiting the National Aviary in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania I always try to get interesting shots of the flamingos, as they like to twist themselves into odd poses. I was fortunate enough to catch this one curled up with its neck and head close to its body.” https://bit.ly/3HmfTJV LAYERS OF A MOODY SEA RUBEN ALEXANDER “I’ve been working on a project titled ‘Photos with Intentional Camera Movement’. This is an ICM photo made at Quilon beach in Kerala, India, showing the moods of the sea on an overcast day, much like revealing layers.” https://bit.ly/4a0dqnC ORANGE JUSTINE GORDON “I was at the Barbican in London, looking to get an edgy shot of the brutalist architecture, and this man happened to be walking up the steps with…

When it comes to enhancing your portraits, a few simple techniques can take your images in all kinds of interesting directions, and in this issue’s video tutorial we’ll explore a range of edits you can make in Affinity Photo. Most of these are carried out in the Develop Persona, which is the workspace for raw editing. This is where you process and enhance your raw images before taking them into the main Photo Persona for further editing, if necessary. Raw images tend to look a little flat straight out of the camera – this is because raw is designed to give you the best possible starting point for editing. Raw files contain greater dynamic range and more colour data than JPEGs, and we can use the tools in the Affinity…

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