Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2016 i SAVEUR

Is there anything better at around four in the afternoon than a warm little scone with a bit of cold clotted cream and a dot of jam? No, there isn’t. As an American baker working in London, I fell in love with the teatime ritual the day I landed here. After the fog of jet lag, I threw myself into studying the world of British pastries. I was familiar with scones from America, the big triangular doorstop-sized kind my mom used to make in California, shot through with chocolate chips or dried fruit or even wisps of cheese—more cake-like than biscuit-like, really—but what I found in Britain was something altogether different, altogether more refined and intriguing: smaller rounds, not too rich, not too sweet, with a smattering of raisins perhaps…

Every lentil, every chickpea, even every sunflower seed, has a secret green salad hidden deep within it. Dried up and left for soaking, souping, or sprinkling, legumes and seeds can come back to life. With just a few days of moisture and warmth, they transform into sometimes-crunchy, sometimesdelicate, nutrient-packed sprouts. “Homegrown sprouts add a welcome brightness to everything,” says Jessica Koslow, chef-owner of Los Angeles’ Sqirl restaurant. Koslow has had lines out the door for her rice bowls and fresh salads ever since she opened the “bacon-serving but vegan-friendly” spot in 2012. “I always have buckets of soaking legumes around the restaurant, and I love waiting for the little sprout stems to poke out.” A sprout is simply a germinated seed, a little newborn plant at most a few inches…

In a large bowl, whisk 10 oz. (2 1⁄2 cups) light buckwheat flour (not whole-grain) and 2 1⁄2 oz. (1⁄2 cup) all-purpose flour until evenly combined. Pour 3⁄4 cup lukewarm water over the flours and, using your fingers, toss and rub the flours with the water until crumbly, like muddy sand. Scrape the dough onto a work surface and press and knead until smooth, about 6 minutes. Press the dough into a disk, then rotate the disk clockwise as you pinch portions of the dough on top of the disk and fold them over in a counterclockwise motion to form pleats. Arrange the dough pleated-side-down and mold into a cone. Flatten the dough around its perimeter until it is 1⁄2-inch thick, keeping a slight bump in the center of the…

With a little bit of planning and patience, you can grow your own sprouts at home quite easily, without much effort or equipment. Start with 2 cups of any seed or dried legume—chickpeas, lentils, black-eyed peas, or sunflower seeds—and soak them in water for 8 to 12 hours or overnight. The next day, drain the legumes almost completely, leaving the last few trickles of water behind. Transfer them to a large, cylindrical container and cover the opening with cheesecloth secured with a rubber band or string. Lay the container on its side on a rimmed baking sheet, propping the bottom of the container on the rim of the baking sheet so it gently slopes downward and the legumes fall naturally into a shallow, even layer in the container. Allow the…

L ee Bailey was the original food-and-lifestyle guru. Writing and photographing in a pre–Martha Stewart world, he was a pioneer in suggesting that a meal’s setting was just as important as the food, that the way you layered sliced tomatoes on a plate mattered, and that a bandana might be used to cradle bread, fruit, and cheese on the way to a picnic, then do double duty as a place mat. He was, as The New York Times summed it up in his 2003 obituary, “an expert in the stylish life.” I write cookbooks for a living, and no one has influenced or inspired me more than Lee—even though, it pains me to say, it’s likely you’ve never heard of him. While his legacy isn’t quite as imprinted on the…

There was never any question of what we would eat for dinner. The Yildirim family has been raising sheep for as long as anyone can remember, and lamb—roasted whole in a wood-burning oven, then served chopped to bits on communal plates—is how they greet every guest. But first, the animal would have to be killed. After a late breakfast of fire-baked flatbread and fresh cheese, the shepherd, Dursun Yildirim, led the animal into the dusty courtyard outside his home. He cradled it in his arms and stroked its neck so gently that, for a moment, it seemed as if he might pet it to death. But it was a knife that actually did the job, and it wasn’t long before Yildirim had sheared the animal, removed its organs, and cleaned…

Someday soon, perhaps, lumache alla romana (plump snails braised in a spicy tomato sauce with mint) will disappear entirely from menus across Rome. At one time, snails were the centerpiece of a local ritual: Hungry Romans headed to suburban fields and vineyards to collect them in late June and cook them into this earthy, mildly piquant dish celebrating the feast day of Saint John the Baptist. It was a tradition unique to Rome, and snails were one of the things that defined cucina romana. But Romans don’t seem to care for snails anymore. Or liver and sweet caramelized onions. Or noodle soup with delicate hunks of tough-to-clean skate. Or many of the staple ingredients that once made Roman cuisine distinct. The city’s trinity of traditional dining venues—the elegant ristorante, the…

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