Indholdsfortegnelse for August - September 2015 i SAVEUR

@SAVEURMAG Want to throw a great dinner party? Check out saveur.com/entertaining for tips, stories, recipes, and menu plans. We can’t get enough of Hawaii —its food or its landscape (page 24). Visit saveur.com/big-island for a bonus recipe and photos. After perfecting your onigiri technique on page 17, head to saveur.com/onigiri for a guide to Tokyo’s rice balls and scenes from the city. Read about the fresh bounty of Martha’s Vineyard (page 54), and go to saveur.com/marthasvineyard to plan your trip. THE RECIPES Appetizers & Sides Caramelized Onion and Sunchoke Dip 14 Grilled Corn and Ricotta Dip 14 Summer Tomato and Herb Dip 14 Onigiri 17 Herbed Squash Confit 20 Orange-Marinated Gravlax 36 Smoky Baba Ghannouj with Oil-Cured Black Olives 45 Turnip Salad with Green Grape Vinaigrette 47 Grilled Greens and…

The Vietnamese phrase that follows each toast is tram phan tram, which means “100 percent.” After standing up and consuming 100 percent of their drinks, revelers shake hands as a sign of camaraderie. Drunk both ceremoniously and casually, kumis (traditionally made of fermented mare’s milk) is the country’s national drink. It’s customary to pour whatever is not finished back into the communal jug, so that nothing is wasted. At feasts in this former Soviet republic, a tamada, the official toast master, leads a series of 20 or more toasts . For each round, the tamada gives a rousing speech before anyone can drink. Miners commonly drink sugarcanebased cocoroco, which is more than 90 percent alcohol. They also leave it in the tunnels for El Tio, the lord of the underground,…

WHERE TO EAT ’Ulu Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Head here for one of the most spectacular oceanfront dining spots on the Kona-Kohala coast. Try the ahi tuna poke, prepared tableside, or the passionfruitglazed wild boar barbecue in steamed bao buns. At breakfast, have the shellfish moco: crab cakes and fried eggs over shrimp fried rice. 72-100 Ka’upulehu Drive, Kailua-Kona; fourseasons.com/hualalai Lava Lava Beach Club Sit on the sand with a “Big Boy” mai tai and watch the sun set at this laid-back joint on Anaeho’omalu Bay. 69-1081 Ku’uali’i Place, Waikoloa; lavalavabeachclub.com/bigisland Gramma’s Kitchen Located southeast of Waimea on the way to the Waipi’o Valley, where the Mock Chew farm is located, this Portuguese-Hawaiian café serves hearty Hawaiian paniolo (cowboy) dishes like oxtail soup…

For this issue our test kitchen discovered the joys of garlic milk, learned that not all clams are equal, and mastered the making of Cairo’s beloved bread We were surprised to learn that for her summer garage party (see page 38), Amy Thielen included milk in the parsley bagna cauda she made to accompany her tender roast pork shoulder (see page 52 for recipe). Turns out it’s not that untraditional —northern Italians sometimes add cream to the anchovy, garlic, and olive oil sauce before serving it as a dip for raw vegetables and toast. In Thielen’s recipe, the concentrated milk, cooked down slowly with garlic cloves, makes the bagna cauda a perfect balance for the roast pork, but we love the sauce on other meats as well, like chicken and…

Coming from the word balad, meaning “my country” or “my people,” aish baladi (“the people’s bread”) is such a staple in modern Cairo that the government subsidizes it. (Politicians have even used it to court votes.) Similar to pita but made with whole-wheat flour, traditional aish baladi is baked on the floors of giant scorching-hot ovens in the city’s bustling market bakeries. You can achieve similar results at home by placing a baking stone in your oven and letting it heat until it’s scorching. This ensures that the stone is hot enough to instantly steam the water in the dough, a crucial factor in the bread’s puffing up. Equally important is the thinness of the dough, which should be rolled out to 1⁄6-inch thick. A thin skin forms, which traps…

Today, beer lovers can’t turn a corner without discovering yet another small craft brewery. It takes a lot to stand out and impress the most seasoned connoisseurs. As the world’s first dry-hopped and unfiltered non-alcoholic beer, Clausthaler Amber is an absolute game-changer. Seeking out the finest hops, the Clausthaler brewers hand-selected the exceptional Cascade Hops, which makes Clausthaler Amber an all-natural product, redefining nonalcoholic beers. Known for their fresh, spicy character, the Cascade Hops add crisp citrus notes to Clausthaler Amber’s rich, naturally dark aroma. The zesty spikes of these hops perfectly complement the brew’s full- bodied taste; hints of malty caramel make for a truly colorful taste profile that is a well-suited match for any meat or fish. As consumers embrace higher standards of refreshment, from artisanal iced teas…

1 MAKE A THREEBOTTLE COCKTAIL You won’t find a simpler drink in the world than pouring three bottles into a bowl for a large-batch Negroni Sbagliato —a combination of Campari, sweet vermouth, and prosecco (which takes the place of the traditional gin). Jeffrey Morgenthaler, bar manager of Clyde Common in Portland, is known for barrel-aging cocktails and other fancy bartender tricks. But when he throws a party, he makes this easy, lightly bitter drink. Here’s how: Chill one bottle each of Campari, Cinzano sweet vermouth, and good, inexpensive prosecco. Dump all three in a serving bowl with a hefty block of ice and serve with big ice cubes . 2 SQUEEZE CITRUS THE NIGHT BEFORE If you decide to go the sour-mixed-drinks route, the conventional wisdom on citrus juice is…

SNACK PACK As a portrait and travel photographer, I’ve visited and lived in many countries, but Japan is an exceptional place to me. So exceptional, in fact, that I made Tokyo my home earlier this year. In daily life, there is a near reverence for detail and quality that I have not seen elsewhere. This is apparent in almost everything, but for me it’s most poetically expressed in the simple rice ball snacks called onigiri. I love their versatility, their minimalism, and the fact that even in the humblest of places, onigiri are made with attention and care. Onigiri are portable parcels that fit in the palm of your hand (nigiri means “to squeeze”). They are sold in tiny rice shops, izakayas, department-store food halls, and convenience stores, like 7-Eleven.…

Entertaining. As much as I love to do it, I dislike the word itself. It sounds so matronly—saying it out loud makes me break out in polka dots of cold deviled quail eggs. Hospitality is just as buttoned up, but a step better because it contains the suggestion of generosity, which is really what throwing a party is about. My social contract is pretty simple: I make way too much food and invite too many people, and in turn they bring too much wine and we stay up too late. I provide the dinner, and they, en masse, provide the din that soothes my excess-loving soul. When my husband, Aaron Spangler, and I moved back home to rural Minnesota after nearly ten years of living in Brooklyn—swapping a small apartment…

Lunch here in Egypt is a big deal. Bigger, indeed, than dinner, which is typically just some meze (finger foods) and drinks. On Fridays, especially, the beginning of the Islamic Sabbath, we bring out our nice china and cook a lunchtime feast. Making more food than your guests can possibly eat is the Egyptian way. That’s why I’ve gathered family and friends for lunch on a hot day at my house in Abusir, a town just south of Cairo. We’ve been cooking for hours. The night before, I made mango sorbet spiced with anise, cardamom, and clove, and baked pistachio tuiles to serve with it. It’s a more stylish way of using the country’s fine mangoes— we have more than 20 varieties—which are usually served simply sliced for dessert. My…

Chef Chris Fischer (see “A Gathering by the Sea,” page 54) loves using topneck clams (1), a medium-size variety with a lot of liquor, in his clams and mussels dish (see page 59 for recipe). But there are many other types of clams, each with its own attributes and ideal uses: Large chowder clams (2) are best in their namesake New England stew, while cherrystones (3) are perfect grilled or eaten raw in sushi. Manilas (4), a Pacific Coast variety similar in taste to littlenecks, and tiny green-flecked cockles (5) pair well in spaghetti with garlic and chile flakes. Littlenecks (6) are ideal in a raw bar, while the meat of gargantuan Atlantic surf clams (7) is typically cut into strips, breaded, and fried. And razor clams (8), easily recognizable…