Indholdsfortegnelse for Fall/Winter 2025 i SAVEUR

THIS LATEST ISSUE of SAVEUR is full of memory, but that doesn’t mean we’re stuck in the past. Andy Warhol is said to have switched up his cologne every few months, keeping retired bottles on hand so he could revisit moments in time with a single whiff. Clearly scent—like its sister sense, taste—is biologically hardwired to memory. That’s what writer Paul Richardson invokes in his ode to marmalade, stirred by the fug of his British grandmother’s kitchen. It’s also what senior editor Benjamin Kemper captures in his celebration of quince, an ancient orchard fruit so potent you have to smell it to understand its millennia-old appeal. That’s why we worked with indie perfumer Imaginary Authors to create a custom scratch-and-sniff varnish for the story. Some things (masterful photography, the turn…

EARLIER THIS YEAR, the SAVEUR team headed to the home state of editor-in-chief Kat Craddock for four food-filled days at the first-ever Providence Culinary Collective Festival. The week-end showcased Rhode Island’s top culinary and beverage talent through splashy wine dinners, charitable events (supporting R.I. Public Media, Feed the Children, and the Jacques Pépin Foundation), cooking classes led by Johnson & Wales University chefs, and even a food truck drag brunch. And to close it all out, SAVEUR hosted an industry after party in the most “Rhody” way possible: with pizza for days and buckets of ice-cold craft beer at Fox Point’s Narragansett brewery. PIZZA, BEER, AND A WHOLE LOT OF ZEPPOLE Inside the brewery, platters overflowed with local pizza, including LaSalle Bakery’s iconic red strips. Meanwhile, out on the patio, Providence…

WE HAVE OFFICIALLY ENTERED the era of unserious tabletop décor. From tiger head salt cellars to glass prawn-rimmed coupes to all manner of kooky candles that look like food—in these uncertain times, whimsy has become a coping mechanism. And what could be more whimsical and silly than a fish-shaped pitcher that glugs and gurgles when you tip it? The good old “gluggle jug” is back in vogue, filling Pinterest mood boards and TikTok feeds. And this time around, it might be here to stay. The first gluggle as we know it was manufactured in 1870 in Stoke-on-Trent, England, by Thomas Forester & Sons. The playful design fit neatly into the era’s Aestheticism, a cultural movement that rejected utilitarianism and embraced beauty and art for art’s sake. It didn’t take long…

IN HONG KONG CANTONESE, you don’t say you’re hungry; you say my stomach is beating drums. And after sunset, to follow the metaphor, that drumroll ushers in a late-night food scene unlike any other: curry fish ball skewers on the streets of Kowloon, beef brisket noodles in eclectic Sheung Wan, and hot milk tea from any stall that beckons. Feasting after dark is in the city’s DNA. I learned quickly that my adoptive home of eight years wasn’t kind to morning people, as anyone who’s tried to buy a coffee before 9:00 a.m. can attest. Night is when the island lights up, literally and figuratively, with gaggles of trendsters, fanny pack-sporting grandmas, and party-hearty expats all pushing their way into noodle bars and cha chaan tengs (our local diner equivalent).…

FROM THE MOMENT I MET CRISTINA SALAS-PORRAS HUDSON, I was drawn into her beautiful and generous orbit. It was 2017, and we sat next to each other on a bus in rural Rajasthan during a month-long group trip to India. She immediately took my hand and asked thoughtful questions. Before long, we were chatting as if we’d known each other for years, instantly bonding over a love of food and travel. Since then, I’ve visited Cristina’s breathtaking home on Hudson Ranch, in the Carneros region of Napa Valley, many times. The property spans 2,000 acres, and her husband, Lee, has been cultivating it for more than 40 years, transforming it into a working ranch and award-winning winery. Cristina has spent more than three decades working in food, hospitality, and the…

PULLING INTO THE PARKING LOT OF KIRK FISH COMPANY in the tiny town of Goodland, Florida, the first thing I notice is the sound: rhythmic clacks of crab claws tossed into bins, the scrape of ice, the hum of idling boat engines. The sun has barely burned through the morning fog as I cross the pier. I find Kelly Kirk at the grading table, her black gloves a blur as she sorts through a mountain of stone crab claws. A strand of dark blond hair escapes her baseball cap as she lifts her head, sensing my presence. “You think you know everything about stone crabs,” she says with half a smile, eyes still scanning the pile. “Then you realize you don’t.” Stone crabs, a Florida delicacy, may only be harvested from…

SERVES:2 INSPIRED BY the classic French combo of radishes and butter, this Japanese riff opts for daikon, gently pan-fried until hoku-hoku, yieldingly soft and steamy (see “Definition,” p. 33). Combined with toasty, savory shoyu, the result makes an excellent side dishor otsumami, a snack to serve with drinks. Peel 2 medium daikon (12 oz.), halve lengthwise, and cut into 1-inch half-moons. In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, melt 1½ Tbsp. unsalted butter. Add the daikon in a single layer and sprinkle evenly with 1 Tbsp. shoyu. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the radish is tender and both sides are deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add tsp. fresh lemon juice and 2 tsp. shoyu, and toss gently. Serve hot.…

Makes: Nine 8-oz. jars LEMONS BRING A PUCKERING liveliness to this traditional preserve (see “The Marmalade Lesson,” p. 27). Should you be blessed with unwaxed fruit, skip step 1. The jars, lids, ladle, and funnel must be sterilized; to do this in your dish-run them on the hottest cycle, then keep the door closed until you’re ready to use them. 2 lb. Seville oranges (about 12–16)3 medium lemons6 cups sugar 1 Bring a large, nonreactive pot of water to a boil. Working in batches, lower the citrus into the water for 10–15 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a cutting board. Once cool, under warm running water, use a kitchen towel to scrub off the wax coating. 2 Pour out the water and place a fine-mesh strainer over the pot.…

Camelia Pham Illustrator (Hanoi, Vietnam) My Quang Thu Suong in Hanoi specializes in central Vietnamese dishes, including my favorite, bun thit nuong: rice noodles with grilled pork, peanuts, and fried onions. Juicy meat, sweet sauce, and the perfect chile jelly. Doaa Elkady Photographer (Queens, New York City) Laut, a Malaysian restaurant on 17th Street, just off Union Square in Manhattan, is one of my absolute favorites. I love their curries; my go-to is the laksa. I consider it to be last-meal-on-earth worthy! James Jackman Photographer (Miami, Florida) Midorie 79th in Miami. I usually order their namesake bowl, which has salmon, tuna, blue crab, tobiko, and shiitake mushrooms. While many like rice as a base, I prefer cha soba (green tea-infused buckwheat) noodles. Mike Rogge Editor-in-Chief, Mountain Gazette (North Lake Tahoe,…

MEAD, THE MILLENNIA-OLD beverage of Viking warriors and Renaissance fairs, is enjoying a revival. Now in a variety of formats, flavors, and alcohol levels, it’s taken a modern tack and has found new fans as a result. It all begins with honey: Mead’s main ingredient is diluted with water, inoculated with yeast, then fermented. This honey “wine,” a broad category including Ethiopia’s gesho-flavored tej and Poland’s miód pitny, can be sweet or dry, still or sparkling. Jeff Herbert, cofounder of Superstition Meadery in Arizona, says the beverage is picking up steam. This year, he flew to Italy, Denmark, and Norway to pour his mead at festivals and bars. The enthusiasm, he believes, is due to “the hard work of mead makers worldwide in elevating awareness.” Stateside, the scene is blossoming,…

WAKASA BAY, ALONG THE Sea of Japan, is rich with oysters, mackerel, and pufferfish. These delicacies are best enjoyed using nuribashi, handmade chopsticks adorned with pearlescent abalone shell, gold foil, and pine needles. The craft began 400 years ago in the city of Obama, where, even today, most Japanese lacquered chopsticks originate. Yet almost none of these are made the ancestral way. Koichi Hada is a 14th-generation artisan whose pedigree dates back to nuribashi’s origin. He works alone, his eyes and silvering hair as lustrous as the raw materials he handles. Each chopstick takes up to a year to complete: He sources tapered rods of mountain cherry wood, then coats them in 15 layers of lacquer, each one taking a week to dry. Decorative elements are painstakingly applied throughout the…

HEALTH AND CULINARY travel used to be worlds apart. Aside from the occasional weight-loss retreat, few trips catered to both appetite and well-being. But as food and wellness become pillars of luxury travel, the lines between the two have begun to blur. Destination spas have long drawn on edible ingredients for their treatments—red wine in skin-softening baths, coffee grounds in exfoliating scrubs, or agave in repairing body wraps. Now, that same philosophy is finding its way back to the table. Castle Hot Springs ARIZONA  castlehotsprings.com Fed by mineral-rich springs that have drawn travelers and Indigenous people for centuries, this desert oasis sources 80 percent of its produce from a regenerative garden on the grounds. The new Sonoran Epicurean Escape includes farm tours, cooking classes, and mezcal pairings—plus plenty of downtime…

SUYING PLASKETT IS in Vinh Phat, her sprawling South Sacramento grocery store, inspecting a spray of lilies bound for a local temple. It’s the Chinese goddess Guanyin’s birthday, and the shopkeeper has a sliver of time to talk before sprinting off to pay her respects. As we walk along, Plaskett, a straight-backed 77-year-old in hoop earrings and a denim jumpsuit, stops to softly pat the elbows of regulars pushing carts full of vegetables. Half a dozen staffers work the meat counter alone, and even niche items such as mam tom (fermented shrimp paste) command multiple shelves. In my favorite corner, staff stack banh mi beside hanging roast pork belly and barbecued ducks, meaty stalactites leaking droplets of their golden fat. Vinh Phat is, in more ways than one, an oasis.…

CLAUDIO CECCHETTI SETS an empty table. His materials are simple: paper or canvas, graphite or oil paint. The Italian-born, New York City-based artist studied the human form at the New York Academy of Art (NYAA), but his most recent works, a haunting series of rumpled tablescapes, speak to its absence. Half-empty glasses, bare plates, and the quiet clutter of everyday life—a blister pack of pills, an open notebook teetering at the edge—recall Daniel Spoerri’s chaotic Eat Art installations, but rendered in somber monochrome. The effect, particularly for those of us who look to mealtimes for comfort, is bittersweet. A former veterinary student who also studied psychology, the 48-year-old found his way to painting in Italy at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Firenze. He supported his early work by busing…

MY GRANDMOTHER, Tita Susana, used to tell me that one day I would write a book about her family from Pátzcuaro, a city in the western Mexican state of Michoacán. I never took her seriously, but always hoped that one day we could travel there together. Sadly, she passed away in 2019, but her prophecy came true: Last year, I visited Pátzcuaro for the first time to research our family history for my book, Mexico’s Day of the Dead, out this September. While customs vary across Mexico, there are certain Día de Muertos traditions that everyone is familiar with. One is the use of marigolds, or cempasúchiles, the ceremonial flowers that are said to guide the souls of loved ones home with their strong aroma and bright color. Another is…

VANILLA IS A PANTRY STAPLE, yet few realize each bean tells a centuries-old tale. Cultivated in places as geographi-scattered as Madagascar, Mexico, cally and the United States (an emerging player), the plant requires a precise balance of temperature, humidity, and shade to thrive. Those environmental demands may limit yields, but they result in a remarkable diversity of flavors, ranging from floral to piquant to smoky. Most “vanilla” today is, in fact, imitation vanillin, cheap and lacking depth. True vanilla, like wine or coffee, reflects its terroir. The vanilla orchid, native to the lush forests of Mexico and Central America, has deep Indigenous roots. The Totonacs likely first planted it for use in perfume and medicine, and the Aztecs later added the ingredient to cacahuatl, the chile-laced ancestor of hot chocolate.…

AT FIRST, I ONLY WENT TO ZOLTAN BOGATHY’S shop to buy gifts for other people. A kind of deli and grocer, it seemed to stock almost every delicious thing imaginable, from French cheeses to Sardinian artichokes, from fresh cinnamon rolls to miso paste. When it opened up a few streets away from where I live, I saw it as a fairy land of delights. I learned from a friend who also frequented the shop that Zoltan grew up in Hungary and that this Cambridge food store was based on a similar one he had in Budapest. When I went to the shop, I would choose such things as tins of tea, little jars of jam made from rare fruits, special spices in tiny silver canisters, fine chocolates that I had…

WHETHER YOU’RE USING ORNATE lacquered chopsticks (see “Pickup Sticks,” p. 25) or a simpler pair, keep them in place—and the tips elegantly elevated—with a chopstick rest. Not only is it functional, but it also brings a sense of occasion and a touch of beauty or whimsy to the table. These landing pads come in many shapes, patterns, colors, and materials. Here are a few of our favorites.…

While exploring wine openers for Bee Wilson’s “The Corkscrew Collection” (see p. 146), visuals director Thomas Payne found this antique in a kitchen drawer. Dedicated researchers that we are, we opened a bottle (or three) to give it a whirl. A bit unwieldy at first, the collapsible hinges provided surprisingly good leverage—and a touch of retro theater. Look for an old-school Zig Zag—originally designed by Jules Bart in France in 1919—at vintage shops, or snag a new one from bostongeneralstore.com.…

Serves: 2 Gogl-mogl is a fanciful alliterative name for an old shtetl standby. Similar to eggnog but lighter, the drink was embraced in Eastern European Jewish communities as a cure-all long before commercial cough syrups became widely available (see “A World of Culinary Curatives,” p. 34). Over time, as Jewish immigrants settled in the U.S., Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup found its way into the mix. This version comes from the old country by way of Crown Heights, Brooklyn; to make it nonalcoholic, skip the brandy. Using a whisk or hand mixer, beat 2 large egg yolks, 2 tsp. sugar, 1 Tbsp. brandy, schnapps, or other eau de vie (optional), and 1 Tbsp. chocolate syrup (optional) until pale and frothy, 3–5 (minutes. Gradually add 1 cup lukewarm milk and continue beating…

Makes: Two 9-inch or twenty 4-inch pies or tarts THIS FRAGRANT GRAHAM CRACKER crust is adapted from (my old boss) Chicago pastry chef Mindy Segal’s legendary graham shortbread cookie recipe. Leagues beyond store-bought graham pie shells, this easy, no-roll dough is my go-to foundation for elevating any cheesecake, lemon bar, or custard pie (see “Dominick’s Lemon Meringue Pie,” p. 127). Feel free to brown and chill the butter ahead of time, but don’t walk away from the stove while it’s cooking; it can jump from perfectly toasted to blackened in an instant. In a small, heavy pot over medium heat, melt 10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot with a silicone spatula, until it’s lightly browned and smells nutty, 6–10 minutes. Immediately pour it into a…

WHEN TESTING Creole-Sicilian chef Dominick Lee’s lemon meringue pie (see p. 127), I encountered an ingredient I was unfamiliar with—a surprise for me as a former professional baker. Fiori di Sicilia, or “flowers of Sicily,” is a fragrant extract inspired by the Italian island’s abundant citrus groves, accented with a hint of vanilla. It’s highly concentrated, so a little goes a long way toward adding complex fruit and floral notes to baked goods and desserts. Look for it in the baking aisle at your local specialty grocer, or buy it online at kingarthurbaking.com.…

THE FIRST COOKBOOK I EVER WROTE was with Naomi Pomeroy, a self-taught chef whose French-inspired dishes were so elegant, you’d swear she trained under Paul Bocuse himself. Taste & Technique is heavy on instruction, but its most enduring lesson comes in the intro: Cooking should feel like a pleasure, not a chore. Naomi delivers this message with near-evangelical zeal, insisting that your mindset matters. Walk into the kitchen in a miserable mood, and chances are, your food will follow suit. Our book is nearly 10 years old, but I’ve been thinking about that notion a lot lately—partly because Naomi passed away last year, and partly because it’s been hard to hold on to joy at all. Every day, the news destroys me. I am anxious, angry, and exhausted, often all…

A dozen festive desserts from acclaimed bakers, pastry chefs, and cookbook authors. Recipes from: BRYAN FORD • CAMARI MICK • CAMILLA WYNNE • CAROLINE SCHIFF CRYSTAL KASS • FADI KAT TAN • GABRIELLA MARTINEZ • HANNAH ZISKIN MINDY SEGAL • NATASHA PICKOWICZ • PAOLA VELEZ • ROSE LEVY BERANBAUM Lovingly printed in Rhode Island in a compact and giftable softcover. Holiday preorders open through Cyber Monday…

Our independently owned publication is created by eight real human beings who all love hearing from you! Send your questions, compliments, critiques, requests, recipes, poems, snapshots, and jokes to us at editorial@saveur.com or P.O. Box 1223, New York, NY 10009. You can also DM or tag us on Instagram (@saveurmag), Facebook (@saveurmagazine), or Bluesky (@saveur.com). Peeling the Past Re: ‘My Mama Loved Mangoes. When She Died, I Learned to Love Them, Too’ saveur.com/miami-mangoes Jane Z. Such a lovely piece of writing, with mangoes and their sweet, juicy mess as the connective tissues of culture, family, place, pleasure, and love. @eileenxkang Too much sun or not enough? Midas’ Bird Re: ‘Fennel Pollen Roasted Chicken’ saveur.com/fennel-pollen-roasted-chicken Rob N. Really lovely chicken. But it comes at a cost! Fennel pollen ain’t cheap… If…

THE PECULIAR GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS certification for “most beautiful milk shop in the world” goes to this dizzyingly ornate 19th-century establishment founded by brothers Paul and Friedrich Pfund. The business opened at a time when food contamination was rampant. Paul, a farmer, and Friedrich, a merchant, prided themselves on selling pure, wholesome dairy, and designed the store to attract affluent customers. They lined the interior from floor to ceiling with hand-painted Villeroy & Boch tiles for beauty, hygiene, and easy cleaning. The shop survived the World War II bombing of Dresden, and remains a beloved landmark in the eclectic Äussere Neustadt neighborhood. Inside, the air holds a faint nuttiness from the roughly 140 cheeses behind the glass counter, where patrons sip buttermilk—straight or flavored with banana, peach, or mango.…

IN TUCSON, ARIZONA, work is underway on a surprising piece of public art: two giant mosaic sausages. It’s a fitting symbol for the Chinese Chorizo Project, the brainchild of locally born chef and artist Feng-Feng Yeh. It all began in the 1880s, when Chinese immigrants settled in Tucson’s barrios during the era of the Chinese Exclusion Act. Many opened neighborhood groceries and adapted to the region’s Mexican-inflected cuisine by selling a curious Tucsonian creation: Chinese chorizo. Similar to Mexican fresh chorizo, the style was often spiced with ancho or guajillo chiles and folded into burritos or scrambled eggs. “I was shocked I never learned this local history,” Yeh says. In 2022, she founded the Chinese Chorizo Festival, drawing on an archival recipe to make more than 600 pounds of the…

LIKE MANY in Karakalpakstan, an autonomous republic in western Uzbekistan, Klishbay Jumanyazov learned to cook while fishing. He spent his days on the Amu Darya delta, where Central Asia’s most important river meets the Aral Sea, once the world’s fourth-largest lake. Born under Soviet rule in 1948 near the fishing town of Moynaq, Jumanyazov spent weekends on the water catching sturgeon and bream, which he’d boil into soups, stew with flour into a porridge called qarma, or simmer with rice, carrots, and onions for fish plov, a local variant of the emblematic dish. Like most outsiders, I came to Moynaq to understand the tragedy of the Aral Sea, which has lost 90 percent of its surface area since the 1960s. For generations, the Sea had been the lifeblood of the…

IN TURKEY, WHEN YOU’VE GOTTEN yourself into a bind, you say “ayvayi yedim”—“I ate the quince.” Anyone who’s ever bitten into this fruit raw needs no further explanation: Uncooked, it’s gustatory punishment, all sandpapery tannins and face-squinching pucker. But with patience comes transformation. As quince cooks, its flesh turns from wan white to a rich, glistening garnet. The kitchen fills with scents akin to roses and baked apples. What was hard and astringent turns lush, spoonable, and gumdrop-like—ready for desserts, jams, stews, or to be savored on its own. People have revered the quince since antiquity, prescribing it as medicine, celebrating it in art and literature, and feasting on it like fruit from the gods. Early American cookbooks, such as Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery (1796) and Miss Beecher’s Domestic Receipt-Book…

Standing in an alley outside a low-slung courtyard home, I dial the number taped to the door and place my order. It’s a chilly Beijing morning, and several minutes pass before a woman emerges cupping a bowl of mian cha, thick millet porridge topped with toasted sesame paste and seeds. Literally “flour tea,” mian cha makes for a satisfying breakfast: nutty, mild, and especially welcome at this early hour. When I lived in Beijing in the late 2010s, the hutongs—narrow passages that snake through the city—were my favorite places to wander. More than just an architectural byproduct, they were the kind of shared spaces where life unfolded in all its richness and mundanity: folks hanging laundry, neighbors gossiping over mahjong, wok smoke drifting through open doors. Yet the hutongs I…

BACK IN MY RESTAURANT days, I worked at Sofra, a Middle Eastern-inspired bakery and café in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Alongside date molasses-drizzled sweets and za’atar flatbreads, the breakfast hotspot serves a rotating menu of floral teas, Turkish coffee, and Persian sharbats: sweet cordials flavored with seasonal fruit, dried flowers, spices, and herbs. My favorite was the electric pink quince flavor that showed up when the fragrant, fuzzy orbs arrived in the fall. When a mountain of quince trimmings piled up at the photo shoot for Benjamin Kemper’s “Golden Globes” (p. 64), I knew I had to recreate it at home. Spiced Quince Sharbat Makes: 2 cups syrup Quince skin contains a high concentration of the fruit’s complex aromas, and the core is loaded with pectin that gives the drink its silky…

WHILE TESTING RECIPES inspired by Beijing’s hutong dishes (see “Between the Walls,” p. 86), I wanted home cooks to be able to replicate the flavors exactly. But for those who can’t read Chinese, tracking down the correct versions of the ingredients for zha jiang mian (see recipe, p. 96) and lao Beijing baodu (see recipe, p. 91) poses a challenge. Here are five of the harder-to-decipher pantry items required. Find them at your local Asian market or online at sayweee.com an independently owned delivery app for Asian grocery stores. 1 Chive Paste 韭花酱 (jiu hua jiang) Sometimes labeled “leek flower sauce,” this condiment is made by fermenting garlic and chive blossoms, and is commonly used in hot pot dipping sauces. Store the garlicky, umami paste in an airtight container in…