Indholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2020 i Scotland Magazine

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

Editor’s letter

Welcome to the latest issue of Scotland, where we’re excited about the longer days that spring brings and are eager to make the most of them. Scotland is synonymous with golf, so if you like to fit in a few rounds on your travels, or indeed if that’s the main reason you come to Scotland, then you’ll want to read our feature on some of the best golfing hotels in Scotland (page 40), where you can more often than not see the green from your room. If literature is more your thing, then why not make spring the time you follow the Robert Burns trail into the rolling farmland of Ayrshire (page 18) and discover a much-overlooked part of the country. When I think of spring, I think of new…

1 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

READER SNAPSHOT

Anne says: “I was on the Isle of Skye leading a photography workshop. For most of the week we had torrents of rain and wind, which made for dramatic photography but under difficult shooting conditions. The weather did not look promising yet again for our trip to Talisker Bay, but we forged on anyway and waited on the beach to see what would develop for us. A slight sliver of light began to peek through the clouds and, as the light broadened, the sky became brilliantly hued with intense colour that lasted until the sun disappeared at the horizon.” “Scotland’s soulfully deep beauty never fails to astound me. As an American with Scottish ancestry, I feel a kinship with the country, both with her magnificent landscapes and her magnanimous, spirited…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

PLAN YOUR VISIT

BLAIRQUHAN CASTLE, MAYBOLE Though this grand castle, just outside the village of Straiton and a short drive from Maybole, is only available for exclusive use hire, smaller groups or couples can stay in one of eight lovely and well-equipped cottages set within the sprawling grounds. blairquhan.co.uk DUNURE CASTLE, DUNURE Once the main castle for the ruling Kennedy clan (the Earls of Cassilis), who built Culzean, this ruined castle perched on a cliff’s edge may not have Culzean’s grandeur but it may just rival its history – Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here in 1563 – and it is every bit as atmospheric. visitscotland.com/info/towns-villages/dunure-p244621 CULZEAN CASTLE, MAYBOLE A beautiful castle with original Robert Adam features and stunning grounds that are home to an orangery, walled garden, and deer park. nts.org.uk/visit/places/culzean A…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

Suits you to a TEE

It’s not for nothing that Scotland is known as the home of golf: as well as the game originating here, it offers some of the most challenging courses, many of which have hosted major golf championships and put the world’s best players through their paces. That said, there are many picturesque greens that are equally suited to beginners wanting to enjoy a relaxing round while taking in the views and buckets of fresh air. And after a day battling the Scottish elements, what could be better than returning to a welcoming hotel where you can eat well in front of a crackling log fire? Whether you are looking for a hotel with history or one that feels like a home from home, these golfing boltholes are the perfect post-round refuges.…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

PLAN YOUR VISIT

Elgin Mill, Elgin Mill tours are available every day at 10am, 11am, 12pm, 1pm, 2pm and 3pm. Please note that areas of the mill do not operate from Friday afternoon to Sunday evening, so you may not see all processes in action. Please book in advance. +44 (0)1343 554088 johnstonsofelgin.com Eastfield Mills, Hawick Mill tours are available Monday to Thursday at 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm and on Friday at 10am. They are conducted by experienced guides who can cater for more specific needs, if notified. Please book in advance. +44 (0)1450 360549 johnstonsofelgin.com…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

DIG A LITTLE DEEPER

Last issue I explained how to locate post-1855 registered birth, marriage and death (BMD) records through ScotlandsPeople (scotlandspeople.gov.uk). The civil registration system was historically administered through the office of the General Register Office for Scotland, now part of the National Records of Scotland (nrscotland.gov.uk), but in addition to these BMD records, there are other civil records that can help with your research, not all of which are online. One of the least obvious resources for those getting started are entries made within the historical Register of Corrected Entries (RCE). If a birth, marriage or death was registered, and then an error found, or a subsequent alteration needed, it was not possible to simply amend the original entry. Instead, a correction was recorded within the RCE, a separate register entirely. If…

3 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

MACPHERSON’S RANT

You may have heard MacPherson’s Rant, sometimes called MacPherson’s Farewell or Lament, played in a Scottish pub or at a family gathering – if not, seek out the fine rendition by the late, lamented Hamish Imlach and fiddler Bobby Campbell – but how well do you know the story behind the song? The story goes that James MacPherson (1675-1700) – undoubtedly a real person – was the illegitimate son of MacPherson, Laird of Invereshie, born to a Gypsy mother. It is said that on his father’s death he was disinherited by a cousin, exiled from Feshie Castle near Kincraig, and went to live with his mother’s family, the Browns, well known around the Kingussie area for their dubious approach to the ownership of livestock, and possibly under the protection of…

3 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

HOMELAND

Where were you born? I was born in Edinburgh. I was the first direct heir to the Chiefship of Clan Macnab since the old line died out in the 1800s and a pipe band greeted my arrival when I was taken home to Killin in Highland Perthshire, where the Macnabs once dominated. My great uncle re-established the Chiefship in the 1950s and it had passed to my father and then to me. What do you remember most vividly from your childhood? I remember a very rural childhood with my brother and sisters in Killin with lots of dogs and ponies. My parents were very social and had lots of house parties. We went to Killin Primary School and had many friends there. It was tough being sent away to boarding…

3 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

CLAN COURIER

[STATELY HOMES] TAKE TO THE FLOORS This year’s Massed Pipe Band Day at Floors Castle will take on added poignancy as it is the first since the late 10th Duke of Roxburghe died. Guy Innes-Ker, who had held his title since 1974, died in August 2019 at his ancestral home of Floors Castle in the Scottish Borders, following a lengthy battle with cancer. The Duke is survived by his wife Virginia, the Duchess of Roxburghe, his five children and five grandchildren. The Duke’s eldest son, Charles Innes-Ker, now succeeds his father as the 11th Duke of Roxburghe. The Massed Pipe Band Day, which takes place in August, is an annual extravaganza in which pipe bands from across the Scottish Borders perform. There will also be music and dance performances, children’s…

4 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

THE LIBRARY

When it comes to Scotland, context is everything: the more armed you are with background knowledge, the more enriched your travels will be. From Scotland’s monarchy to its complex system of land ownership, here are some of the best history books to add to your reading list. EVENTS THE DECLARATION OF ARBROATH 1320: “FOR FREEDOM ALONE” Edward J Cowan To mark the 700th anniversary of the important moment in Scottish history, in which dozens of Scottish nobles sealed a document confirming Scotland’s status as an independent sovereign state (see page 54), a new edition of this book has been released. Here, Cowan, former Professor of Scottish History and Director of the Crichton Campus, examines the origins of the Declaration and the ideas upon which it was based. In his book-length…

5 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

INSIDE INVERARAY

“There are millions of Campbells around the world and Inveraray is their spiritual home” Torquhil Ian Campbell, 13th (Peerage of Scotland) and 6th (Peerage of UK) Duke of Argyll holds so many ancestral titles and historic offices that it sometimes becomes confusing to know what they could all possibly mean in the 21st century. Among them, for example, he is Master of the Royal Household in Scotland, Admiral of the Western Coasts and Argyll, and he is the Hereditary Keeper of the Royal Castles of Carrick, Dunoon, Dunstaffnage and Tarbert. However, at Inveraray, his spectacular turreted castle on Loch Fyne in Argyll, there is only one honour that matters to him: MacCailean Mór, ‘Son of the Great Colin’ a dignity acquired from his ancestor, the mighty Sir Colin Campbell of…

6 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

WIN A Great British holiday

YOUR ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME TRIP INCLUDES: ■ Free international flights (if applicable) ■ Two-night London stay ■ Tickets on Caledonian Sleeper to Edinburgh ■ Two-night stay in Edinburgh ■ A British food tour ■ Tickets to Blenheim Palace ■ A night in a Cotswolds hotel ■ Afternoon tea ■ West End tickets with dinner What would your dream holiday to Britain include? A five-star stay in London and tickets to a West End show? A trip to historic Edinburgh? How about a stay in the Cotswolds, including a visit to one of Britain’s finest stately homes? Well, with our Great British holiday competition, you can win all of this and more. LONDON LUXURY Starting with free flights (for overseas entrants), the winner and their guest will travel to London for two nights…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

The DECLARATION of ARBROATH

This April marks the 700th anniversary of the sealing of one of the most famous documents in Scotland’s history: the Declaration of Arbroath. The lead up to and story behind the declaration is as captivating as ever and was awarded ‘Memory of the World’ status by UNESCO in 2016 for its international importance. Here, we journey through the events preceding the declaration’s creation with a look at its purpose and legacy to try and understand the lasting significance of this fascinating artefact. THE WARS OF SCOTTISH INDEPENDENCE The year 1286 sparked a series of unfortunate events that spiralled into a succession crisis in Scotland. It began with the sudden death of Alexander III, who had ruled since 1249. He sadly outlived his three children and his only legitimate heir, granddaughter Margaret,…

6 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

THE ROYAL MILE

Edinburgh is one of those cities that just has it all: character, mystery, history around every corner (or should that be under every footstep?), a burgeoning food scene… it even has its own Highland park. All of these attributes can be found in spades in and around the oldest part of the city, the Old Town, where medieval wynds and lanes trickle off the famous Royal Mile, which links two of the city’s biggest attractions: Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Though this thoroughfare can get stiflingly busy in the height of summer when thousands upon thousands of visitors descend on the capital for its annual extravaganza, the Edinburgh Festival (when five festivals meet across the city in one explosive month), it’s nevertheless the nucleus of the city. At…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

FORESTS THEN & NOW

Scotland used to be a forest. The landscape was dominated by ancient oaks and Scots pines. The more sheltered glens had birch, hazel and cherry trees. Scottish cultural history shows how vital trees once were to the Scots. Gaelic folktales have many stories of trees and forests, and the Gaelic alphabet has a plant to represent each letter. Place names such as Crieff (tree place), Aikenhead (oak area), and Birkenshaw (birch wood), are inspired by trees, yet today, the quintessential image of Scotland is the vast open hills of heather and grass. What happened to the forests? CALEDONIAN FORESTS Scotland’s ancient Caledonian forests grew at the end of the last Ice Age. When the ice retreated enough for trees to grow, they slowly colonised the land. Anywhere that wasn’t too…

5 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

MAXWELL’S TEMPLE

Back in the early 1980s, my parents used to take us camping at Kenmore in Perthshire. The village sits at the eastern end of Loch Tay, beside an old bridge that crosses the River Tay as it leaves the loch. We spent our days playing in the loch and climbing the surrounding hills. One of our favourite family walks took us along the northern bank of the river and into the woodland that surrounds the village. There, sitting on its own in a clearing, was a mysterious 30-foot-tall gothic tower. We had recently discovered the works of Tolkien, and here was one of the Two Towers. At any minute, we expected to be overrun by orcs and goblins… Thirty-five years later, my wife and I took the same walk along…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

WE’VE GOT MAIL

IN AWE OF LOCH AWE I’m just on my way home to Lancashire following my first visit to Scotland. Absolutely blown away with the beautiful rugged landscapes and can’t believe I’ve never ventured here before now. I’ve attached two photos. The first being the gorgeous Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe. The second is the lost valley area in Glencoe. Katie Grishakov, by email MORE MAPS PLEASE Where are the maps? Scots may know where everything is, but, as an American, I don’t. The previous version of the magazine had lots of good maps. Why don’t you print a geological map of Scotland? Also, the pages and pictures are huge, but the print is tiny for my old eyes. Finally, might you consider an article on Dr Archie Cochrane, who promoted…

2 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

BURNS COUNTRY

Robert Burns, or ‘Rabbie’ as he is more affectionately known, is Scotland’s answer to William Shakespeare. Though his writing, largely written in Scots dialect, was indisputably beautiful, his enduring charm is probably down to the fact that he spoke to the common man and for them. Burns was born in the little village of Alloway, just a couple of miles from the Ayrshire coast, in 1759. Though educated, Burns’ early life was humble: his father, William, was a gardener on a local estate (later a tenant farmer) and his mother, Agnes, managed the family’s smallholding. Burns spent the first seven years of his life in Alloway, in a two-bed but and ben house with a thatched roof, built by his father. The cottage still stands, though it has been extended…

6 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

RAISING THE STANDARD

In the summer of 1745 Great Britain was fighting France, on this occasion an episode in the War of the Austrian Succession. It suited France to shelter the ousted Stuart dynasty. Already there had been four attempts to reinstall it on the British throne and the government in London could never ignore the threat it created. But it was accepted that an insurrection needed the support of, perhaps, 6,000 French troops and a supply of arms to have any chance of success. And France could threaten this when it pleased to keep Britain from concentrating all its attention on the Continent where the Duke of Cumberland had just lost the Battle of Fontenoy. Then on 25 July, the ‘Young Pretender’, Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charles) turned up on Eriskay…

5 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

Smooth OPERATOR

Tucked into a bend of the winding River Lossie in Moray, is the town of Elgin. On the large side as Scottish towns go, it was once a Royal Burgh, complete with a motte and bailey castle and a Cathedral City. What remains, other than not much of the 13th-century cathedral and 12th-century castle (both now in ruin), is something that has far outlasted the material wealth and prestige the town once had: its heritage. Elgin has, for 223 years now, been home to Johnstons of Elgin, a brand known the world over as experts in cashmere and fine woollens. Today it is the driving force behind some of the world’s most famous and beloved luxury brands: Barbour, Hackett, Two Danes, Masai, Joules, Aigle, Meyer, Nomads, Fairfax & Favor; the…

4 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

ANNIVERSARY EVENTS

■ The Declaration of Arbroath will be on display for the first time in 15 years at the National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh from 27 March to 26 April 2020. nms.ac.uk/declaration ■ The town of Arbroath will also host a lively festival programme to mark the anniversary, which will run for six months from April to September 2020. Events will include the Declaration of Arbroath Pageant Procession from Arbroath Abbey to Arbroath Harbour on 5 April and the 13.20-mile Arbroath 2020 Declaration Run on 11 April. arbroath2020.com ■ For further analysis, attend a lecture on the Declaration of Arbroath at The Battle of Bannockburn Visitor Centre on 7 April. nts.org.uk ■ In New York, USA, Tartan Day Observance will take place on 3 April. In addition, Tartan Week will be…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

PLAN YOUR VISIT

STAY Abbey Strand Apartments Restored medieval apartments in the shadow of the palace. History never felt so close to home. lateralcity.com BOOK The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo Don’t miss this colourful and traditional spectacle at the castle in its 70th anniversary year. edintattoo.co.uk EAT Wedgwood Enjoy relaxed, seasonal fine dining, including the Wee Tour of Scotland tasting menu, at this small Royal Mile restaurant. wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk SHOP Cranachan & Crowdie Buy delicious and well-sourced Scottish food and drink at this fine shop on the Royal Mile. cranachanandcrowdie.com SEE Arthur’s Seat Arthur’s Seat can be viewed from the apartments. For a closer look, take a hike to its peak through the glorious Holyrood Park and enjoy a different perspective of the city. www.walkhighlands.co.uk…

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Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

THE REAL MACBETH

In Scottish clans, tanistry was the system of succession that elected the worthiest member of eligible families as ruler. Unlike the feudal system of primogeniture, where the heir was the eldest son of the previous leader, it meant that no child could inherit. The chosen successor was therefore likely to be sufficiently mature, wise and ruthless to govern effectively. Though it had its advantages, there was one major disadvantage. Those who thought they should have been selected had their noses put out of joint and often rebelled and tried to oust the new leader. So, the new overlord tended to slaughter all those who might threaten his regime. The power of a leader depended on his war band – those young men he could attract to his banner to fight…

5 min

Scotland Magazine|March/April 2020

Scotland’s Best Hotels

SPONSORED BY ARGYLL & LOMOND 1. ARDANAISEIG HOTEL ARGYLL, PA35 1HE +44 (0)1866 833333 ardanaiseig.com 2. BRIDGE OF ORCHY HOTEL ARGYLL, PA36 4AD +44 (0)1838 400208 bridgeoforchy.co.uk 3. THE GEORGE HOTEL ARGYLL, PA32 8TT +44 (0)1499 302111 thegeorgehotel.co.uk 4. THE PIERHOUSE HOTEL PORT APPIN, PA36 4AD +44 (0)1631 730302 pierhousehotel.co.uk 5. LOCH MELFORT HOTEL ARGYLL, PA34 4XG +44 (0)1852 200233 lochmelfort.co.uk 6. THE LODGE ON LOCH LOMOND ARGYLL, G83 8PA +44 (0)1436 860201 loch-lomond.co.uk 7. STONEFIELD CASTLE HOTEL TARBERT, PA29 6YJ +44 (0)1880 820836 bespokehotels.com BORDERS 1. THE BORDER HOTEL KIRK YETHOLM, TD5 8PQ +44 (0)1573 420237 borderhotel.co.uk 2. BUCCLEUCH ARMS ROXBURGHSHIRE, TD6 0EW +44 (0)1835 822243 buccleucharms.com 3. CROSS KEYS HOTEL ROXBURGHSHIRE, TD5 7HL +44 (0)1573 223303 cross-keys-hotel.co.uk 4. DRYBURGH ABBEY HOTEL MELROSE, TD6 0RQ +44 (0)1835 822261 dryburghhotel.co.uk…

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