Indholdsfortegnelse for February - March 2018 i Sew News

JOIN US FOR INTERNATIONAL QUILT FESTIVAL IN CHICAGO! SEE more than 500 great quilts and fiber art works in nearly 25 exhibits! SHOP at nearly 300 booths! LEARN in classes for all skill levels! FREE demos and educational exhibits. JUST SOME OF THE EXHIBITS INCLUDE: • A Celebration of Color • HERstory: A Celebration of Strong Women • SAQA: Masterworks: Abstract and Geometric • Creative Stitching • Quilts for Scrap Lovers • Anthems • SAQA: Textile Posters • Traditional Midwest & Canadian Quilts CHICAGO, IL Show Dates April 12-14 Classes begin April 12 Hours 10am-6pm Thurs. & Fri. 10am-5pm Sat. At the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Illinois (Just minutes outside of Chicago) CALL: 713-781-6864 E-MAIL: shows@quilts.com WEBSITE: www.quilts.com MAKE YOUR PLANS NOW! /quiltfestival @quiltfestival @quiltfestival…

Move darts to better suit the fabric or the desired look. Consider the fabric design when deciding where to place darts. Stripes are significantly distorted by the placement of a dart, so decide where to place the distortion or if the distortion can serve as a design element (A). Likewise, if you’re incorporating a border or decorative edge, you might not want to distort the design, so move the dart. Likely places to move bust darts are into the armhole, shoulder and center front (B). To add an additional dart for fitting purposes, move the excess fabric that’s pinched out to a more appropriate location, if desired. Manipulate the fabric into an existing dart. If the dart becomes quite large because of your curves, consider dividing it into two smaller…

Q My curvy-girl garment-sewing group is planning to focus on jackets this spring. Please suggest jacket shapes that flatter different body types. A Spring is a great time to stitch up a new jacket or two, because the fabrics are fun and they don’t need heavy linings or insulation. Consider four body types, labeled for convenience with geometric shape names, and some fashion-forward jacket shapes that are flattering to each type (1). As you choose favorite styles remember that it’s best to pick shapes that draw attention to your best feature. A jacket should always fit smoothly over your curves with room for clothing underneath. Try to avoid over-fitting your smallest features. These jacket shape suggestions will work if you are curvy, thin or somewhere between. In a…

What story are you telling with the clothes you wear? When in school for fashion design, I learned that many fashion designers spend time considering the audience they design for when they create a collection. They ponder and research questions such as: Who is my audience? What are they wearing? What stage is she at in life? What is she hoping to feel when she tries on a garment? What story is she telling others when she puts it on? Most designers go more in-depth and think: How much money is she making? Is she a feminist? Is she in the workplace? Is she a housewife or mother, local socialite, all of the above? What part of the world does she reside? Until I started my blog, RivaLaDiva.com, I never…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Pencil skirt pattern with darts (such as McCall’s 3830)• Barkcloth or similar bottomweight fabric (amount according to pattern envelope)• Scraps of coordinating cotton fabric (pockets)• Lightweight fusible interfacing• Thread: matching all-purpose & contrasting topstitching• 7" coil zipper• Hook & eye• Pattern paper & tracing wheel• Clear tape• French curve ruler• Zipper foot ALTER Trace the skirt front and back onto separate pieces of pattern paper. On the skirt front, mark 2" below the upper edge along the side seam. Mark 4" below the upper edge along the center front. Connect the marks using a straight line (1). Cut along the line, and then add a 5/8" seam allowance to each cut edge. Designate the upper piece as the yoke (2). Cut the yoke along one…

The blouse’s sleeves echo the folkwear tops and chemises of the traditional costumes of rural Romania, Ukraine, parts of Hungary, Slovakia and Poland. These garments were often decorated with elaborate embroidery that takes many months to complete. The blouses were traditionally sewn using only rectangles and triangles, easy-to-cut shapes that use fabric efficiently, and much of the shaping and fitting was achieved with gathers. Because every part of the blouse merited embellishment, rural seamstresses came up with clever folding and stitching methods to create cartridge pleats that matched the embroidery’s decorative nature.…

Although the terms are often used synonymously, a flounce isn’t the same as a ruffle; it’s constructed quite differently and offers a softer, wavy flutter effect on a hem, neckline or other seamline. A ruffle is a piece of straight fabric that’s gathered along the seamline to create the fullness. A flounce is smooth at the seamline and cut on a curve to create fullness. Add curved or circular flounces to any straight or curved edge or seamline on a garment. All flounces have an upper edge that corresponds to the garment seamline length where the flounce is attached.…

MELTON CLOTH Traditionally made of wool using a twill weave, the fabric is fulled and then heavily brushed to give it a smooth, napped finish. The cloth is dense and has a felt-like texture that frays minimally or not at all. It is both wind and water-resistant. Melton is well known for its use in military uniforms and dates back to the early 19th century. Its name is derived from the English town of Melton Mowbray, where the cloth was first developed. LODEN CLOTH A heavy, dense wool fabric with a short pile similar to melton cloth, this fabric was first produced by peasants from the Austrian Tyrol and dates back to the early 16th century. The fabric is made from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep that has…

LACE BUNNY PILLOWS SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 20" square pillow. • 2/3 yard of linen or cotton fabric• Fat quarter of white cotton lace• Paper-backed fusible adhesive• Matching all-purpose thread• 20" square pillow form• 22" invisible zipper• Zipper foot• 3" pom-pom maker• White yarn• Hand-sewing needle PREPARE Download the Sitting Bunny template free from sewnews.com/web_extras until March 31, 2018. Find the template at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print and cut out. From the linen fabric, cut two 20" squares. Trace the bunny image onto to the paper-backed fusible adhesive. Cut around the image. CONSTRUCT Place the fusible side of the paper-backed adhesive bunny shape over the lace wrong side, aligning the pattern as desired. Fuse, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Let cool, leaving the paper in…

What are your sewing goals for the new year? By sketching potential future garments, drawing and recreating prints from your stash or drawing out your wardrobe plans, fashion sketching helps you set your intentions and stick to them, no matter your goals. Sew a pattern that’s always intimidated you by sketching out design possibilities and determining a plan. Work only from patterns you already own by sketching and displaying them to keep them top of mind. This is particularly useful for digital patterns, which are easy to forget once stored in your computer. Expand the use of your existing-pattern library by sketching out easy hacks and design options. Sew more from your stash this year by recreating fabric patterns and trying them out as future garments through sketches. Plan a…

CRAFTING FOR CAT LADIES by Kat Roberts Bring some cat-titude to your sewing with this fun collection of 35 unique projects. The book is divided into four sections — accessories, fashion, home and entertaining — all with an extensive range of techniques including sewing, appliqué, embroidery, jewelry-making and more. There’s something purr-fect here for any cat lover. larkcrafts.com PLEATING by Leon Kalajian & George Kalajian This book offers the basic needed to understand and take fabric pleating to the next level. Throughout, step-by-step instructions guide you through the types of pleats and their requirements in terms of fabric, grain, bias and other factors. This is an essential reference for designers, seamstresses, pattern makers, costumers and students. schifferbooks.com FABRIGAMI by Jill Stovall, Scott Stern & Florence Temko Fabrigami is the art…

DEAR READERS, There’s a fair amount of controversy surrounding Barbie’s influence on young children, despite recent efforts to ensure a more realistic body type; the advent of career-minded Barbie; and the addition of different skin tones, facial features and hair colors to the doll line. I haven’t yet been swayed by Mattel’s effort to make Barbie more universally accepted. But I have to admit: Growing up, I had tons of Barbies! I gave my Barbies haircuts, I took my Barbies to the swimming pool, I made my Barbies clothes using scraps from my mom’s sewing bin. Even though my feminist ideals are strong, I’ll never deprive my children of having Barbies so I can encourage conversations about self-image—plus we can use her as a muse for starter sewing projects. So…

SN: Describe your perfect day. SJ: A perfect (and totally unrealistic) day would be to start off working with my sewing machine for a few hours, and then end it spending time with my family. Also, not having to make anyone any meals! All my meals would be made for me. SN: What’s the last hobby you picked up? SJ: Sewing (9 years ago)! I spend any of my free time sewing to the point that I haven’t had time to pick up a new hobby, and I’m okay with that! SN: What is your must-have tool in your studio? SJ: My BERNINA 560 sewing machine is my must-have tool. I couldn’t do anything without it! It’s such an amazing and reliable machine. SN: Which talent would you most like…

SUPPLIES • Sports bra pattern (such as BurdaStyle #107 01/2017)• 1/4 yard each of printed nylon/ spandex fabric & black supplex fabric• 1/8 yard of nude stretch lining fabric• 1 yard of 1"- to 2"-wide elastic• All-purpose thread• 90/14 stretch or ballpoint sewing machine needle• Clear gridded ruler• Tape• Tracing paper• Paper scissors PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape together the pattern pieces. Measure your bust circumference to best determine your size. If the chosen fabric is quite stretchy, consider going down one size; if it isn’t very stretchy, consider going up one size. ALTER To rotate the dart into the center, locate the mid-point of the center-front seam and draw a straight line from there to the dart point (1). Using paper scissors, cut from…

Last year, I participated and created a small collection for the McCall’s Style Show at the Sewing & Stitchery Expo in Washington. At the time, I was living in Seattle and was enduring one of the gloomiest winters the area has experienced in over 150 years. But, at the same time, I was going to Paris for the first time three days after the expo. Paris was my inspiration. This time around, my mood board was a little more interactive. I constantly listened to “learn to speak French” podcasts, I made French food, listened to French music and watched movies based in Paris. It would be early spring when I got there so I focused on creating my own take on “Parisian spring style.” When I sewed, I listened to…

Barkcloth historically was exactly what it sounds like: fabric made from processing and weaving the fibrous inner bark from a number of different trees found throughout Africa, Asia, Indonesia and the Pacific islands. Its warp thread is almost invisible, but there’s an uneven, nubby texture in the weft. Most barkcloth available now is actually made from cotton that’s densely woven to produce the same texture. The fabric was extremely popular in the 1940s through the 1960s, often featuring atomic or boomerang prints. Even now, barkcloth is usually found in vivid prints that complement the fabric. While this skirt is easily sewn up in any bottomweight fabric, using barkcloth gives it a fun and unique vintage vibe.…

SUPPLIES • Shift dress pattern (such as New Look 6500)• Denim fabric & notions (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard)• 1/2 yard of print cotton fabric (pocket lining)• Thread: matching all-purpose & contrasting topstitching• Size 100/16 denim needle• Removable fabric marker• 10mm fashion studs with prongs (amount according to pocket size)• Pliers or stud attachment tool• Fabric starch PREPARE Download the Statement Studs pocket patterns at sewnews.com/web_extras until March 31, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Select the small or large pocket based on the project size. Prewash, dry and press the denim and lining. From the denim, cut out the dress according to the pattern instructions. From the denim and lining, cut one pocket on the fold. CONSTRUCT Install a denim needle…

COTTON SWAB This technique is the most basic and only requires a few household items. SUPPLIES • Denim fabric• Cotton swabs• Liquid bleach• Small cup or container• Small plastic lid TECHNIQUE Press denim fabric flat to remove any wrinkles. Pour a small amount of liquid bleach into a cup. Position a small plastic lid over the fabric. Dip a cotton swab into the bleach. Trace the lid perimeter with the swab. The more bleach used, the lighter the denim results. Reposition the lid over the fabric as desired to create an interesting pattern. Repeat to trace the perimeter. Add dots to embellish in and around each circle. If desired, add circles without a lid template (1). Once more comfortable with the technique, use a cotton swab to create freehand drawings…

MANAGING BULK The primary challenge to sewing with no-fray coatings is managing bulk. As such, careful consideration must be made at every stage of construction to help minimize or eliminate as much bulk as possible. Regular and intersecting seams, collars and other added styling details can be problematic due to the thickness of the fabric. Dealing with this issue starts with selecting the right style or pattern. Consider uncomplicated designs with limited style lines — thus fewer seams. Fit first with a muslin prototype made of inexpensive felt or heavyweight flannel to reduce over-handling the fashion fabric. Limit or eliminate facings and interfacing where possible. To reduce excessive bulk, use thinner materials like lining fabrics to face collars, pockets and cuffs. Consider eliminating the lining entirely. Since the seams require…

Take these basic steps for machine-sewing success on no-fray coatings. • Use a universal size 80-100 sharp needle. • Increase the stitch length slightly from the usual length. • Use a walking foot to prevent thick, bulky seams from shifting during sewing. • Use all-purpose polyester thread, which is durable enough to withstand wear and tear. • When sewing layers of thick, bulky fabric, getting the presser foot to sit horizontally at the start of a seam can be an issue. To raise the back portion of the presser foot so it is even, use a “stitch starter.” This is nothing more than a piece of scrap fabric that acts as a running board to help the presser foot smoothly transition onto the seam. • Keep a flat-head screwdriver or…

While the featured pillows are fairly traditional with their neutral, solid colors, there are endless opportunities to make these cuties match any décor or taste. Appliqué a bunny in a print on a solid fabric or vice versa, experiment with seasonal fabrics or substitute a shimmery metallic lace. Fill a bunny outline with faux flowers, sequins, buttons or beads. Add a touch of sparkle using a glittery iron-on transfer sheet. Or fill the bunny with decorative stitching in a variegated thread, either freehand or using lines of decorative stitching.…

Grab the pattern at shopsewitall.com and join us for the following special topics on the Sew News blog: February 5: Inspiration Behind the Design February 12: Fabric Recommendations February 19: Bound Buttonholes THE PATTERN The Luzerne Trench offers a feminine, French-inspired take on the classic trench coat, with plenty of high-end details. Featuring princess seams, this double-breasted trench is designed to be unlined and close-fitting. Pleats at the front and back provide shaping, and the pattern features a two-piece sleeve. The pattern is available for European sizes 34 to 46 in print and up to size 52 available as a PDF download. Recommended fabrics include light- to mediumweight twill or gabardine and coating fabric. Extra fabric is needed if matching stripes or plaids. MEET THE DESIGNER: ELÉONORE KLEIN, DEER AND…

BLOUSE PATTERNS Look for a pattern that features a high neck and flowing sleeve. Turn to page 42 for a bohemian-style top that will also work with this style. PANT PATTERNS Start with a cropped wide-leg trouser pattern. Visit burdastyle.com  to find the featured patterns. FABRIC COLOR PALETTE FINAL TOUCHES Finish the look with a wide belt, bulky bracelets and a low heel. If heels aren’t your thing, this silhouette pairs nicely with booties or closed-toed flats.…

1.Your house is now a fabric storage closet. 2. You could sew something every day for a year with your fabric stash and still have enough to cover the Empire State Building. 3. You have fabric that’s older than your kids or grandkids. 4. You find yourself putting your fabric purchases in grocery sacks rather than the tell-tale fabric store bag. 5. Looking at your fabric stash relaxes you more than yoga. 6. You’ve been featured on an episode of Hoarders and you’re not embarrassed. 7. Number One on your speed dial is your local fabric store. 8. When making travel arrangements you first check what fabric stores are in town. 9. You’d rather buy fabric than chocolate. 10. You really believe that the person with the most fabric wins.…

DELPHINE COLBEAU 10×10 Fashion Challenge — page 66 In 1994, a French magazine was advertising a doll named Tatiana. You could get her by mail order and certain issues of the magazine included sewing and knitting patterns to make Tatiana an entire wardrobe. After much begging, I convinced my mom to buy Tatiana, and at 9 years old, I picked up a needle, thread and fabric for the first time to hand stitch a “skirt” for my doll (a cylinder with one seam). I come from a family of makers, as one of my grandmothers was a professional seamstress and the other one a professional knitter. Within a couple of months, Tatiana was the best-dressed doll by three generations of women. sewingtidbits.wordpress.com RAE CUMBIE Curve Appeal: Jacket Focus — page…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Feb 28, 2018. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The Feb/Mar ’18 winners will receive a wonderful prize! Congratulations To the Dec '17/Jan ’18 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive a fabulous prize. Lamona A., Portland, OR Beth S., Toledo, OH Dorothy C., East Setauket, NY Donna D., Cedar Rapids, IA Joyce M., Vadnais Heights, MN…

A dart is a stitched-down fold in fabric ending in a point that molds fabric to the shape of the body. Darts smoothly taper out excess fabric created as the body curves from fuller to smaller areas. Adding darts is an invaluable way to shape a piece of flat fabric to the body’s contours. Darts are commonly found radiating from the hip to the waist, from the bust to the waist or from the bust to the side seam. Darts are also used to shape the shoulder area in the front and back, the small of the back, the sleeve at the shoulder and the bend of the arm. There are three basic types of darts: single-pointed, double-pointed and curved. Each type has a different shape in order to achieve…

It’s time to starting hitting the gym again, and that means we need a new workout wardrobe! One of the most expensive pieces of a workout outfit is the bra, so why not sew your own? For this BurdaStyle sports bra pattern, I eliminated the dart and created pleats instead for more visual interest and to better accommodate a larger bust. Instead of having the pleat under the bust, I rotated the dart to the center front. I sewed the sports bra in a trendy galaxy-printed spandex. I love this pattern because of the wide band and the crossed straps that add support and style.…

SUPPLIES • Pair of jeans• Beading thread (size D)• Size 10/13 hand beading needles• Pearl beads (approximately 25 for each leg) Double thread a needle with a 50" length of beading thread tied with a double overhand knot (1). Working from the fabric wrong side, pull the needle and thread to the right side, through one bead and insert the needle close to the starting point. Pull the needle to the wrong side. Repeat to sew on the remaining pearls, placing closely set pearl beads toward the hem and spacing the beads more widely as you work up the pant leg to create a cascading effect. Connect pearl beads by looping thread on the pant-leg wrong side (2). After placing the last pearl bead, tie off the thread with a…

“When I share a bit of myself, it makes my creations special. It reminds me of who I want to be, where I am going and where I have been.” If you struggle with minimalism and the less-is-more concept, embrace your inner maximalist. Play with prints. Find your favorite and use it as a neutral. Embrace color. Don’t be afraid to play with the color wheel. Bold details. Experiment with textures, gold accessories, zippers, buttons and fun thread options. Edit. Don’t throw taste out the window. Going overboard is a risk we all take as we experiment with “more is better.” The same can be said with the opposite, however. If less is more and you do too little, you risk being flat and boring.…

SUPPLIES • Skinny jeans pattern (such as Closet Case Pattern’s Ginger Skinny Jeans)• Denim (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard)• Lining, interfacing & notions (according to pattern envelope)• Four 5"-long metal zippers• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: clear & curved• Removable fabric marker• Heavyweight cardstock PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER On the front pattern, measure 5" from the lower edge seamline along the side seamline; mark. Designate as the zipper opening. Draw a horizontal line parallel to the lower edge at the knee. Draw a parallel line 3" above and below the…

FLOUNCE FINISH A flounce is a focal point on a garment, and therefore must have precise hemming for best results. A narrow hem is the best choice to finish flounces, although it’s challenging because of the small folds and precise straight stitching near the edge. To compound the challenge, all flounces have a curved hem edge, creating hem portions both on the bias and the straight of grain. Bias edges always fold easily around the curves, but the straight grain edges are more difficult to manipulate during hemming. Create a narrow hem by hand or use a specialty rolled-hem presser foot or narrow-rolled hem setting on a serger for a quick and accurate finish. If working with a fabric that doesn’t fray, such as a knit, leave the hem edge…

Whether you’re a devotee of the capsule wardrobe or you just want to make the most of your closet, the 10×10 challenge will help you push your style boundaries. It's extremely simple: Choose 10 items in your closet and wear them exclusively for 10 days. Prepare for it in less than an hour and garner valuable lessons about your style that will transform the way you approach sewing for yourself. Sustainable fashion blogger Lee Vosburgh, aka Style Bee, began documenting her 10×10 challenges back in 2015, and although the effort primarily attracted minimalist fashion enthusiasts on Instagram, it’s quickly gathering interest from the online sewing community. The challenge now takes place four times per year, with hundreds of people from all over the world sharing their outfits for 10 dedicated…