Indholdsfortegnelse for August - September 2018 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, I’m not sure the phrase “Dress for the job you want, not for the job you have” is still true today. Office culture has changed dramatically over the years as companies have expanded casual Fridays to include “casual every days.” I think women have an even harder time dressing the part, as we take into account what exactly our ensemble might convey. I work in a casual setting, where the employees are all very creative in their thinking as well as their dress. It’s comforting to know I can wear a suit one day and sundress the next, without being judged solely on my appearance. I know I’m lucky in that regard, and many women aren’t. That being said, I do think it’s important to say something with…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Aug. 31, 2018. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The Aug/Sept ’18 winners will receive a bundle of sewing books. Congratulations to the June/July ’18 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive a fabulous sewing prize. Buffie V., Earlville, NY Yvonne C., Liberty, TX Holly C., Orlando, FL Regina T., Oakdale, CA Tommie H., Quinton, AL…

SPEEDY SERGING Even though a serger doesn’t replace a sewing machine and won’t perform certain techniques, such as buttonholes and topstitching, it’s extremely valuable in garment making. Serger stitches and techniques that are useful for constructing clothing are slightly different than those on a sewing machine. This article refers to the most common type of serger that has a right and left needle, upper looper and lower looper to form stitches with two, three or four threads, such as the Janome 1110DX. There are many reasons that sewing with a serger is faster than a sewing machine. First, the motor typically runs faster and produces more stitches in the same amount of time, usually about 50% to 60% more stitches per minute. Another reason is that a serger performs more…

If you don’t have the time to sew every garment from scratch, secondhand clothes are a great option to create a more sustainable wardrobe. Here are three strategies for adding thrifted garments into your fall clothing rotation: 1. Search for sweaters in the summer. Thrift stores are a goldmine of unwanted sweaters, especially in the summer months. Start hunting for sweaters in June, as you’ll get the best deals then. Don’t worry about finding sweaters in your size. If you have a serger you can easily take in the side seams and arms. Or wear it oversized with a pair of fitted jeans for a casual fall look. 2. Size down men’s button-up shirts. If you’re not keen on shirt making, thrifting men’s button-up shirts is a great alternative. The…

BRAS BEFORE TIME Women have probably always worn some form of garment for breast support. In ancient times, this took the form of a cloth band across the chest, or a ribbon or decorative chain tied beneath the breasts. Then corsets were invented; yes, they were waist-whittlers extraordinaire, but they also supported the breasts. During these corset-wearing years, many people created bra-like garments to wear alongside or instead of corsets. The garment most resembling the modern bra was patented in 1893 by a woman named Marie Tucek. It had shoulder straps, a hook closure and held the breasts in two separate pockets. Still, Tucek’s bra wasn’t exactly popular. In fact, pretty much nobody wore it. Fast forward to 1913. Mary Phelps Jacob, a young New York socialite, loved trendy “lingerie…

Follow these tips when fabric painting to achieve best results. Fabric Select an absorbent, natural fiber fabric, such as cotton sateen, cotton twill, rayon, rayon blends or linen. Paint If using a fabric dye, select dye in small, re-sealable squeeze tubes to easily mix colors. Choose a dye that’s set using an iron. If using paint, select paint that’s easily applied to fabric and doesn’t create a stiff drape. Mix colors for unique shades to match any project. Use the paint in very thin layers for the best results. Combine both dye and fabric to create a unique texture on the fabric. When combining dye and paint, apply and set the dye first before applying the paint. Brushes To create large brush strokes, use paintbrushes specifically used for wall and…

Always begin with much less dye than needed. More dye can be added to achieve a darker or more intense color. Fabric dye uses chemicals that shouldn’t be ingested; so don’t use any pot for food after it’s used for dyeing notions. Different products absorb dye at different speeds. Fold-over elastic and bra hooks are thin and soak up dye very quickly, while rings and slides take longer. Place hooks, rings and slides in a mesh bag to easily check the dyeing process separately from other notions.…

WHY LINE? A lining adds body and structure, comfort and longevity to the garment. At the same time, it conceals unsightly seams and the inner construction of the garment, giving the inside a clean, finished appearance. Linings help to prolong the life of the garment by separating the outer fabric from a person’s skin, thus preventing it from absorbing any of the body’s natural oils or perspiration, which with time degrade the fabric. In the case of lining an outerwear garment, it also prevents the underside of the outer fabric from the general wear and tear of repeated wearing. As a bonus, coat linings can play an important aesthetic role when incorporating luxurious or dramatic choices, such as faux fur or beautiful brocades. Options for coat and jacket lining materials…

August 14: Fabric Selection August 21: Yoke Assembly Tips August 28: Tying Options THE PATTERN Flattering, easy to wear and style and with unique design features, the Tea House Dress by Sew House Seven is a great pattern with a variety of options for different looks in a wide variety of drapey fabrics. The design features a V-neckline with front and back neck yokes, in-seam angled pockets (for the dress versions), a back neck box pleat, cuffed dolman short sleeves and two tie options. Choose from three different lengths: a hip-length blouse, an above-the-knee dress and a tea-length dress. Even better: There are no closures to sew as the dress simply slips on. The pattern comes in sizes 0-20 and lightweight fabrics are recommended, including rayon challis, wool challis, silk…

BLAZER PATTERNS Look for a pattern that features a higher-neck lapel collar, straight sleeve and hits below the waist. FABRIC COLOR PALETTE FINAL TOUCHES When accessorizing a print suit set, keep simplicity in mind. The matching suit is the statement, and the accessories should be solid tonal colors. Choose one color from the fabric print to coordinate with shoes and purse. For a work-appropriate look, choose a close-toed shoe and structured satchel bag. SHORT PATTERNS Look for a tailored mid-rise short that’s not too short and features minimal pockets. TIP: Pick a printed fabric that has many elements to it so the print doesn’t need to match up.…

DANA BONTRAGER DIY Textiles: Painterly Plastic — page 57 RAE CUMBIE Curve Appeal: Fit for Fall — page 22 fitforartpatterns.com ABBY GLASSENBERG The Common Thread: The New Age of Sewing — page 78 I really only sew stuffed animals, dolls and the occasional quilt, rather than garments. I’m hoping to start embroidering a map of Boston quilt from Haptic Labs, and I’m pretty excited about it. whileshenaps.com craftindustryalliance.org MEG HEALY Pattern Play: Bubble Duster — page 18 I want to incorporate the 80s revival trend that Harper's Bazaar reported on and appeared on the runways of designers Givenchy, Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs and Versace. Lots of faux leather, big shoulders and jumpsuits — I love it all! I’m going to sew up BurdaStyle’s 80s Jumpsuit 12/2010 #118 pattern to…

1. The BRYCE CARGO PANTS from Hey June Handmade are a must-have for fall. Make up in stretch twill for comfort and durability.The design features classic cargo styling updated with a slim-fit leg for a modern, feminine feel. heyjunehandmade.com 2. Perfect your hand sewing or hand embroidery with the SEWING NEEDLE POCKET GUIDE FOR HAND STITCHING. This visual guide features a variety of hand-sewing needles with full-size photos, explaining the characteristics that make each needle different and helping you identify which needles you already have and what to use them for. ctpub.com 3. Sip and sew with a group of friends with these SEW CHARMING! WINE CHARMS. These six wine charms will jazz up any wine glass with fun sayings.. If you’re not a wine drinker, add them to a…

SUPPLIES • Cardigan sewing pattern (such as BurdaStyle #131 02/2016) • 3 yards of sweater-knit fabric • Fusible knit interfacing • 1 yard of 1"-wide elastic • All-purpose thread • Ballpoint or stretch sewing machine needle • Clear gridded ruler • Pattern or tracing paper PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. If using the featured BurdaStyle pattern, prepare all the pattern pieces. Measure around the bust to find the correct pattern size from the best-matching bust circumference. Note: This is a plus-sized pattern. If you wear a standard size, use the smallest size line for an oversized silhouette. ALTER Crop the hemline to your preferred length. For the featured cardigan, measure 24" below the waist notch on the side seam. Mark the…

SUPPLIES • Serger (such as the Janome 1110DX; see “Source”) • 2 knit fabric rectangles (See “Cutting Directions.”) • 4 cones of serger thread • Removable fabric marker PREPARE Cut the rectangles for the desired size according to the Cutting Directions chart below. Fold one rectangle in half lengthwise. Mark the upper edge 5" from the fold. Mark the fold 3" from the upper edge. Draw a gently curved line connecting the two marks to create the neckline. Draw a slight diagonal line connecting the neckline to the long open edge to create the shoulder seam. Mark the long open edge 10" below the upper edge to denote the armscye. Mark the lower edge 2" in from the long open edge. Draw a gently curved line connecting the two marks…

STEP 1 GET TO KNOW YOUR COLOR PALETTE. Understanding my personal color palette has been a game changer, especially in fall and winter sewing. In summer, I tend to wear brighter colors, but it took a few years for me to understand that my fall color palette is more muted. In the colder months, I like to wear neutral colors, so I’m always looking for navy, gray and brown bottomweight fabrics. The prints I choose typically follow that color palette too, with a little bit of red thrown in. STEP 2 BUILD YOUR WISH LIST IN EARLY SUMMER. Indiesew has a great wish list tool that makes it easy to keep tabs on what you want to make. You can add comments next to each item to note what kind…

BOW WELT POCKET Add a cute bow to a basic welt pocket for a sweet accent. SUPPLIES • Fabric • Fusible interfacing • All-purpose thread • Tailor’s chalk, 100% cotton hand basting thread or removable fabric marker CUT From the fabric, cut one 4"×8" rectangle for the bow, one 2"×5" rectangle for the bow knot, one 6"×8" rectangle for the upper pocket and one 41/2"×8" rectangle for the lower pocket. CONSTRUCT Mark a 11/2"×6" rectangle at the desired pocket location on the base fabric right side. Designate as the welt box. Center a rectangle of fusible interfacing slightly larger than the welt box on the base fabric wrong side; fuse following the manufacturer’s instructions. Draw a straight line through the welt box lengthwise center, ending 3/4" before each box short…

SUPPLIES • Tote bag pattern (See "Sources.") • Cotton broadcloth or duck canvas & notions (amount according to the pattern envelope) • 2 cups of all-purpose flour & cold water • Putty knife or wide spatula • Wire whisk • Fabric paint (See “Sources.”) • Round stippling sponges • Small dish • Tarp • Apron • Painter’s tape (optional) PREPARE Combine the flour and water in a 1:1 ratio. Whisk the mixture until there are no lumps and it resembles melted ice cream. Cover the work surface with a tarp. Position the fabric yardage right side up over the tarp. If desired, apply painter’s tape to the fabric to create stripes. Smooth the paste over the fabric; allow to air dry. Note: The drying process is slow because the tarp…

PAINTING BASICS Select a solid-colored fabric or a fabric that reads as a solid, such as small, dense or tone-on-tone prints. Position the fabric yardage or cut out pattern pieces right side up on a covered work surface. Use a plastic plate to mix the chosen fabric paint. If mixing colors to match a certain shade, mix more than enough for the project. It’s easier than trying to mix the exact color again if more paint is needed. Always start with a light color, and then mix darker shades to obtain the desired shade. If using a dark color first, a lot of lighter paint needs to be mixed in to obtain the same shade. Purchase a box of thin disposable gloves at a home improvement, drugstore or beauty supply…

SUPPLIES • Basic T-shirt pattern (See “Source.”) • Knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope) • 1 yard of 3/8"-wide velvet ribbon • All-purpose thread • Size 80/11 ballpoint needle • Pattern or tracing paper ALTER Trace the back and sleeve patterns onto new paper; cut out. Trace the front pattern onto new paper, and then flip it along the center-front line; trace to create a full front pattern. Place the full front pattern on a flat work surface. To determine the point the wrap intersects with the side seam, measure from your shoulder to your natural waistline. Mark from the right shoulder seam to the right side seam according to the measurement. Draw a diagonal line from the left shoulder/neckline intersection to the marking on the right side…

Making a fall or winter coat is quite a commitment, and best pondered before the onset of cool weather. Aside from choosing the ideal outer fabric, determine upfront the desired warmth for the coat. There are multiple components that, when combined, determine a coat’s ultimate warmth: the outer fabric, the lining material and optional underlining and/or interlining materials. Each element adds a layer of insulation that collectively enhances the coat’s overall warmth. While the chosen outer fabric will, in most cases, determine the general warmth of the garment, careful attention to the choice of lining materials and possible underlinings/interlinings help make any coat withstand frigid temperatures.…

Southwest The rugged look of the Southwest brings rich earthtones and softened geometrics together, creating a space that's warm and exudes comfort. Textiles feature diamond-patterned wovens with symbolic Native American imagery. The color palette includes shades of turquoise, reds, oranges and yellows, with indigo blue, sage green and hammered silver. Decorations include terracotta pottery, suns, dried Indian corn, feathers, horses, buffaloes and lizards, and the look wouldn’t be complete without Kokopelli. This home décor style is perfect for anyone who dreams of quiet desert living, the warmth of the sun and a deep appreciation for the earth.…

FLOSSIE TEACAKES’ GUIDE TO ENGLISH PAPER PIECING by Florence Knapp Blogger Florence Knapp shares her love of this hand-sewn patchwork technique through step-by-step tutorials and inspiring articles. From fussy-cutting fabric and sewing curves to creating unique rosettes and a gorgeous quilt top, you’ll learn the fundamentals of English paper piecing, time-tested tips, tools for achieving great results and what to look for when choosing fabric. quiltingcompany.com EMBROIDERED GARDEN FLOWERS by Kazuko Aoki Sixty-three flower varieties are presented featuring buds, blooms and roots in stunning detail and charming color combinations. Kazuko Aoki blends her twin passions of gardening and embroidery through these designs. Artistic photographs, clear instructions and detailed diagrams create a treasure trove to be enjoyed by novice and experienced embroiderers alike. roostbooks.com EASY HOME SEWING PROJECTS by Charlie Moorby…

SUPPLIES • Clutch purse • Leather-belting strip • 3 button studs with screw backs • Round drive punch • Rubber mallet • Precision knife • Scrap ribbon • Hand-sewing needle • All-purpose thread Purchase a clutch or large wallet that features a large fold-over flap and coordinating leather belting strip. The length of the leather-belting strip will be determined by your waist measurements, plus a 4"–6" overlap section for securing the belt. The width of the belting should be determined by style preference and space available on the inside flap of the clutch. Mark the overlapped portions of the belting in three evenly divided sections for button stud placement. Using a round hole punch and rubber mallet, punch out the marked areas, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Screw on the button…

1. The Sewing Machine Song—Frank Loesser 2. Coat of Many Colors—Dolly Parton 3. Fashion—David Bowie 4. Velvet Pants—Propeller Heads 5. Material Girl—Madonna 6. Black Velvet—Alannah Myles 7. Raspberry Beret—Prince 8. He’s So Fine—The Chiffons 9. The Girl in the Yellow Dress—David Gilmour 10. Take Your Momma Out Tonight—Scissor Sisters 11. The Hardest Button to Button—The White Stripes 12. Forever in Blue Jeans—Neil Diamond 13. Chantilly Lace—Big Bopper 14. The Work Song—Mack David, Cinderella 15. No Disco—Depeche Mode Search the Ultimate Sewing Playlist on the Sew News You Tube channel to hear all the songs featured here!…

1. COPPER COOL Use “As Seen on TV” copper grill/baking sheets as pressing sheets for appliqué and fusible interfacings. The copper sheets help distribute the heat without the worry of the fusible adhesive sticking to them. Teresa C., email 2. BRIGHT IDEA Use an adjustable headlamp when removing hard-to-see stitches. Elaine O., email 3. DOT YOUR EYES When sewing felt animals, use the tip of a seam ripper to poke holes in the fabric for the plastic eye placement. Patricia B., letter 4. STRETCH RECYCLING Sew ends of scrap elastic together to create a band to use as a hair tie, in the kitchen around bags of dry goods, around rolls of interfacing, to secure pins boxes from opening and so much more. Joan R., email 5. ON THE MEND…

SN: Describe your perfect day. EB: My perfect day would start with a run along the river, followed by a hot bath, then a whole day in my sewing room making clothing for myself and listening to podcasts. In the evening, I’d meet my husband for a session at our favorite cocktail bar. SN: What’s the last hobby you picked up? EB: I started loom knitting last spring, and so far I’ve made eight pairs of socks. I still have no idea what to do with a pair of knitting needles, but I’ve got warm feet now and that’s what matters. SN: What’s your spirit animal? EB: I think I’d probably be a cheetah – dedicated and driven, but can pivot at a moment’s notice and still find time for…

DENIM RE-DO You’ve probably seen a wide range of garments, accessories and bags made from taking apart and reusing old jeans. There are some amazing patchwork denim creations out there. This tutorial takes you step-by-step through how to create an intricately pieced denim blazer with a basic log cabin pattern — it’s easier than it looks! For the most striking final product, look for jeans in large sizes (they have more fabric!) in similar weights and stretch but different shades or even different colors altogether. The more contrast you can create between each piece, the easier it is to see the care and work that goes into this statement piece. SUPPLIES • Tuxedo blazer pattern (such as BurdaStyle 11/2012 #127A) • Approximately six pairs of XXL or XL men’s or…

Follow these key elements to ensure welt pocket success: • Traditional welt pockets are a maximum of 1/2"×6", any longer and the pocket may gap. Welts are at least 11/2"×8". • Stabilize the fabric with fusible interfacing to prevent raveling. • Draw welt boxes on base fabric using a removable fabric marker, tailor’s chalk, tailor’s tacks or hand-basted lines using 100% cotton basting thread. Always test any marking method on scrap fabric to ensure it’s completely removable. Some tailor’s chalk and fabric markers disappear with heat or steam from an iron. • Always use a ruler to draw accurate measurements and straight lines. • Carefully and slowly cut welt pocket openings using small, sharp scissors. • Construct samples to practice the technique before working on the final project.…

SUPPLIES • Basic A-line skirt pattern with waistband • Cotton sateen fabric & notions (amount according to pattern envelope) • Fabric dye or paint (see “Sources.”) • All-purpose thread • Towels • Wall or furniture paintbrushes: 1" round, 11/2" square angle & 2" regular PREPARE From the fabric, cut one front, two backs and two waistbands. With right sides together, stitch the backs to the front along the side seams. PAINT Select the desired color and number of dyes or paints. Position the skirt flat and right side up on a flat work surface covered with absorbent towels. Determine a rough brush stroke layout for the skirt. Dip a 2" paintbrush into the dye or paint. Beginning at one skirt side, paint single brushstrokes across the skirt as desired; allow…

PART ONE: FABRIC & NOTIONS Sewing your own lingerie is a seemingly intimidating experience because of the new materials and techniques out there. With expert guidance and knowledge, making your own bras and underwear is actually fun and rewarding, especially when the fit is perfect. Read on to learn all about the fabric and notions most commonly used for lingerie projects. FABRIC CHOICE Some lingerie sewing patterns are designed for woven fabric; however, it’s much easier to achieve a perfect fit with stretch fabrics that move with your body. Most knit fabrics with stretch are suitable for lingerie. Choose a mostly natural fiber, such as cotton, or a blend, such as bamboo rayon with a 3% to 10% Lycra content. The Lycra gives the fabric good stretch and recovery, while…