Indholdsfortegnelse for October - November 2018 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, The cosplay trend is one that’s here to stay and, if you haven’t noticed, more and more specific fabrics and notions are on the market to support this trend. Unfortunately, many of these fabrics are difficult to sew: vinyl, sequins and satin to name a few. I’m grateful to fabric stores for not only featuring these products so they’re readily available, but also offering the education needed to guide sewists of all levels to handle the tricky materials without much frustration. That’s where we come in handy, too. In the pages that follow, we’re focusing on fall-ready fabrics that take your projects to next-level greatness. Faux fur, suede, leather and wool are all good wardrobe-building fabrics for this time of year that elevate simple patterns into fashion must-haves…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Oct 31, 2018. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Meet the Ovo 150GT. It’s an iron. It’s a steamer. It’s both! But don’t be fooled by its charm. This portable powerhouse travels light and takes out wrinkles without taking up space. The Oct/Nov ’18 winners will receive an Ovo 150GT. Retail Value: $49.00. Congratulations to the Aug/Sept ’18 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive…

TEAR REPAIR Unlike holes that need covering with a patch or darning, tears can be fixed with a narrow seam. Reinforce the torn edges by placing 1/2"-wide strips of fusible interfacing as close as possible to both edges on the wrong side. Fuse in place following the manufacturer’s instructions. Fold the fabric to bring the tear edges right sides together; pin. With a short straight stitch, sew a scant 1/4" away from the raw edge. Stitch parallel to the tear, beginning and ending on the fold to form a point 1/4" beyond each tear end, as for a dart point. Backstitch at each end to secure, and then zigzag the raw edges to prevent raveling. Press the seam to one side, pressing the points as flat as possible (1). Disguise…

This top was inspired by the Fall 2018 ready-to-wear runway shows, where we saw a lot of 80s silhouettes and a ton of velvet. I love both of those things very much, so I wanted to create an upscale turtleneck that would turn heads anywhere it was worn. Balenciaga showcased beautiful tops with gathers and pleats that added dimension to the velvet. I had to recreate these techniques using a basic BurdaStyle turtleneck pattern.…

“To really have fun with your wardrobe, you have to dress only for yourself.” DEFINING YOUR STYLE Dressing for yourself is easier with a sense of what you like and what looks good on you. Once you know this, your life will become a lot simpler. You will no longer buy something just because it’s on sale or in a color that’s not flattering or simply shop to feel better. How does one develop a sense of style? Start with some simple questions. • What are your favorite colors? • Which of these colors is best next to your face? • What pant styles are you most comfortable in? • Do you like fitted or loose tops? • Do you prefer prints or solids? • If you prefer…

From sporty to classic to vintage-inspired, jumpsuits make a great alternative for date nights, formal events or everyday wear. There are many pattern options on the market, some designed with comfort and some (maybe surprisingly) upscale and sophisticated. Sallie Jumpsuit by Closet Case Patterns, closetcasepatterns.com This pattern includes multiple versions, but the kimono-style sleeves and tie-neck closure are particularly classy. Stitch up version A for a night on the town and one of the other versions, which include tie spaghetti straps and a maxi dress option, for a less formal occasion. Jumpsuit (Plus Size) 05/2017 #126B by BurdaStyle, burdastyle.com No matter where you stand on the jumpsuit genre, don’t sit out because you feel like it won’t work for your curves This plus-size pattern from BurdaStyle is sewn with drapey…

• A variety of faux fur is available, including heavyweight or lightweight, stiff or flexible and different pile lengths and textures. The knit backing also varies in thickness and stiffness. • The nap indicates the direction of the fur fibers. Always cut and sew with the nap going in the same direction. • Cut faux fur in a single layer using scissors to cut through the knit backing in small, short cuts. Carefully pull the fur fibers apart after cutting. • Pin or use binder clips to secure pieces together, moving the fur fibers away from the raw edges. • Select a 3mm stitch length. During stitching, constantly smooth fur fibers away from the seam edges and needle. • Use a zigzag or hand whip-stitch to secure two fur strips…

PERFECT PATCHWORK The Seminole tribe, located in south Florida, is the originator of this stunning style of patchwork. Dating back to the early 20th century, as sewing machines became widely available, Seminole patchwork began as simple sawtooth shapes created from fabric strips and grew more intricate. Luckily, the patchwork is easier than it looks; it’s created by piecing strips, cutting them into smaller pieces and stitching them together in specific ways. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 1/4 yard each of five coordinating 56"-wide faux suede fabrics (such as rust, blue, gray, cream & red)• 3/4 yard of coordinating 56"-wide faux suede (such as taupe)• 5/8 yard of 45"-wide fusible fleece interfacing• 11/4 yards of 3/16"-diameter cording• 18"-long regular nylon zipper• All-purpose thread• 6"×20" bolster pillow form (See “Sources.”)• Zipper or…

"BRAS 101: BASIC FITTING" COURSE WITH MONICA BRAVO: ACADEMY.BURDASTYLE.COM. PART TWO: TIPS & TECHNIQUES Sewing your own lingerie can be intimidating because of the combination of materials and techniques, but with expert guidance and knowledge it’s fun and rewarding, especially when the fit is perfect. Read on to learn how to easily sew lingerie fabrics that are notoriously stretchy and slippery to work with and discover essential tools that help achieve a professional finish. NEEDLES It’s important to use the right needle for the task at hand. Stretch needles are used for very stretchy fabrics and designed to easily pierce the fabric and prevent skipped stitches. Ballpoint needles are used for very fine fabrics that snag or easily break fibers. The needle tip is rounded in a ball shape, allowing…

• Alter the pattern to simplify the construction steps, turning darts into style lines and removing hem allowances. • Add style lines and create smaller pattern pieces that are easier to place on a suede skin. For instance, turn darts into princess seams. • When buying suede skins, bring all your pattern pieces to the store to ensure you get the right quantities. Inspect each skin as it’s common to find holes or irregularities in random spots. • Cut each pattern piece in a single layer using a rotary cutter and a cutting mat. • Don’t pin suede, as holes will remain visible. • Use fusible interfacing where needed, and press the seams using a dry iron set on medium heat and a press cloth. • Consider using a specialty…

Making the wrong shoulder pad choice ruins the overall look and hang of the garment. Here are some guidelines to consider: • Evaluate the weight and drape of the garment fabric. The pads shouldn’t be visible on the garment exterior. Therefore, they’re poorly suited to garments made with very lightweight or sheer fabrics. • The materials used to make shoulder pads should be commensurate with the garment fabric in terms of weight and care. If the garment is one that can be laundered, use padding materials that are laundered the same way. • When adding shoulder pads to an unlined garment, use the same garment fabric to cover the shoulder pads so they blend in with the garment. If that fabric is too heavy or stiff, consider a lighter, lining-weight…

A sewing journal can take many forms. Find what works for you. Here are some ideas to get you started: Pen & Paper Options 1. A blank notebook (lined, unlined or graph paper): Use it like a scrapbook or make it into a bullet journal. Paste swatches, draw, color, paste pictures from magazines and jot down notes. 2. A specialty journal designed specifically for sewing such as the Colette Sewing Planner, the Quilter’s Planner or the Cashmerette Curvy Sketchbook: These products are preformatted, making it easy to just turn the page each time you start a new project. 3. Manila envelopes: Store the pattern along with notes, sketches and swatches all together in an envelope. Digital Options 1. A blog: The combination of photos, longer-form written reflections and a community…

Recreate a comfortable but put-together look that’s suitable for business-casual events. Make a cropped formal jacket, a ruffle-detail button-down and jeans that fit perfectly to achieve this ensemble. Experiment with classic tweed patterns and color combinations for the jacket and darker, subtle colors for a more professional look. For a more youthful look, try bright and bold hues that have an abstract pattern. JACKET PATTERNS Look for a hip-length pattern that features a high, round neckline, button-down closure and hard-to-find-but-so-fun storm flaps. TIP Pick a woven tweed print that features one bold color and one neutral. SHIRT PATTERNS Look for a partial or fully button-down placket, mandarin collar and long sleeve. JEAN PATTERNS Look for a straight-to-wide pant leg in a boyfriend style and cropped length, with an optional seam…

SANDRA BETZINA Clothes Minded: Elevate Your Look — page 30 My very favorite pant pattern is Vogue 1411 (above). I have a tummy and a flat butt and this is the only close-fitting pant that’s actually flattering. The secret is the diagonal placed on the back pattern piece. I’ve made eight pairs in rayon ponte double knit and love every one. DELPHINE COLBEAU Suede to Measure — page 66 Make Waist Pants — page 48 sewingtidbits.com SARA COUGILL Taos Tote — page 34 RAE CUMBIE Curve Appeal: Great Pants that Fit — page 22 My favorite pant pattern is my Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern (at right). fitforartpatterns.com ABBY GLASSENBERG Common Thread: Take Note — page 79 whileshenaps.com; craftindustryalliance.org MEG HEALY Pattern Play: Turtleneck Twist — page 18 My favorite…

Even if you followed the manufacturer’s instructions, fusible interfacing can look bubbled or blistered, especially after a few launderings. To undo the damage, first try re-pressing. Often a little more heat, steam and pressure will force the fusible resins into the fabric and eliminate the bubbles. If re-pressing doesn’t work, try pulling apart the layers. Press the interfacing to soften the resins, and then quickly and carefully pull the layers apart. Allow to cool and don’t re-press; the interfacing will now behave like a sew-in. If the blistered look persists, try quilting or topstitching the area with decorative thread. Rows or grids of straight or simple utility stitches, scattered embroidered motifs or free-motion swirls sewn with a darning foot will make the problem look intentional (A).…

Q Everyone in my sewing circle finds it impossible to buy pants that fit, so we want to begin sewing pants. Could you suggest which styles work best on which bodies so we can each find a pattern that flatters our figure? A It’s terrific to begin your pants sewing adventures with a group of sewing friends who can help you assess your mock-ups and nuance your fit. A simple tapered pant with no pockets and a back zipper flatters every body shape and is a good place to begin. Keeping your fitting samples simple will assure you find the correct crotch curve, which is essential for the pants fitting process (1). Once you develop a pattern that’s comfortable, style them in a number of ways by…

LEATHERWORK BASICS Learn two techniques that are a perfect introduction to leatherworking: a saddle stitch and peening copper rivets. SADDLE STITCH A saddle stitch incorporates two needles, one on each end of a thread length. When sewing leather, use the most heavyweight cotton or cotton/ polyester thread available. Cut a thread length that measures from your nose to the end of your arm. Any longer thread length tends to be difficult to work with and often tangles. Choose two yarn darning or leather needles that correspond to the chosen leather punch size. Run the thread length across beeswax several time to lubricate the thread and prevent tangles. To create a saddle stitch, weave both thread ends through the leather holes in a figure-eight shape. Thread one needle on each thread…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Long jacket pattern with princess seams & high collar (such as BurdaStyle 6461, View A)• Coat fabric & notions (according to the pattern guidesheet; excluding the button and snaps)• 1/4 yard of at least 58"-wide soft, flexible faux fur with a medium length and dense pile (See “Sources.”)• 3"-diameter cardboard circle template• Four 63/4" sew-on toggle closures• Needles: 90/14 universal & 100/16 leather• Heavyweight thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Basting glue PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. Remove 10” from the front, side front, side back, back, lining front and lining back lower…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one large, medium and small pumpkin. • 1/2 yard of print cotton fabric (A)• 3/8 yard of coordinating print cotton fabric (B)• 1/4 yard of coordinating print cotton fabric (C)• 13/4 yards of 21/2"-wide burlap ribbon• Thread: matching all-purpose & upholstery or topstitching• Hand-sewing needle• Polyester fiberfill• Hot glue gun & glue sticks PREPARE Download the Gingham Gourds patterns at sewnews.com/web_extrasuntil Nov. 30, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print, and then cut out. Press each fabric piece. Using the large-pumpkin circle template, cut one circle close to one fabric A corner (1). Fold the remaining fabric A in half lengthwise with right sides together, and then fold again in half widthwise. Cut a total of eight segments using…

JENNIFER KEMPLER @peppermintcreek jennifersewsagain.blogspot.com I decided to sew jeans because I have trouble finding ready-to-wear jeans that fit me. The length is the biggest problem. The first pair of jeans I ever made was a Calvin Klein pattern in the 80’s—wow, that was a great pair of jeans! I could finally stop buying Levis 501s and pegging the leg. While you can find longer jeans these days, it’s easier to sew a new pair of jeans from scratch. The most interesting part of sewing something new is finding out how it's done. I’m pretty much an engineer at heart, so figuring out how jeans (or whatever else) are made is fascinating. FAVE PATTERN: Mid-Rise Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns JEN BEEMAN, GRAINLINE STUDIO @grainlinestudio grainlinestudio.com/blog I was waiting for…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Pencil skirt pattern (such as Burda-Style Jenny Basic Skirt #6058)• 2 or 3 suede skins (or about 11/2" yards of synthetic suede)• Lightweight fusible interfacing• One 19/16" inner-diameter curtain grommet• Sew-on snaps• Matching all-purpose thread• Leather sewing machine needle & PTFE presser foot (optional)• Pattern paper & tracing wheel ALTER Trace the pencil skirt pattern front and back. Remove any pegging at the hem by straightening the side seam between the hip and the hem. For skirts that rest at the natural waist, lower the waistline by 1" on both the front and back view. On the skirt pattern front, replace the front dart with two darts placed to divide the waistline in thirds. The depth of each dart should measure half of the initial…

SHOULDER PAD BASICS Shoulder pads are almost always used in tailored garments, such as jackets, coats and blazers, but they have a place in almost any type of garment. Any top, shirt or dress that needs a bit of support or shaping at the shoulder area calls for a shoulder pad. There are three main structural reasons shoulder pads are used, though they’re also commonly used as a design element. In tailored garments, typically made from substantial fabrics like wool, shoulder pads help to lift and support the shoulder area along the shoulder seamline so it doesn’t collapse or droop from the garment weight. Second, they help to shape and add structure around the shoulder area so the garment hangs without gaps or puckers. The padding helps create a smooth,…

October 9: Color Blocking & Layout Options October 18: Sewing a Lapped Zipper October 23: Adding a Lining THE PATTERN The A-Frame Skirt is inspired by the iconic A-frame house and features a pencil or A-line silhouette. The design features triangular seaming, pockets, a center-back zipper and buttoned waistband. The skirt sits at the natural waist and ends just below the knee. The pencil skirt version features a kick pleat at the center-back seam. The instructions include alterations for proportion adjustment as well as shorten/lengthen adjustments. Recommended fabrics for version 1 include medium to heavy bottomweight fabrics like denim, twill, sateen, linen and corduroy. For version 2, choose lighter bottomweight fabrics with body and drape, such as rayon, linen blends and other opaque fabrics. MEET THE DESIGNER: TAYLOR MCVAY, BLUEPRINTS…

MY DOLL MY STYLE by Anna Allen Discover how fun and easy it is to make custom, on-trend doll fashions the child in your life will love. Designer and Doll It Up blogger Anna Allen shows you how to create runway-worthy looks for 18" dolls. From jeggings and dresses to shorts and tees, each pattern is designed for today’s fashion fabrics with a modern aesthetic and fit. shopsewitall.com A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DYEING & SEWING by Clémentine Lubin Customize, modernize and transform fabrics with this easy guide to dyeing and sewing. Learn to create 12 different dye effects by hand, in the washing machine or even in the microwave. Follow the clear instructions for each technique, and then show off the result by making one of 21 gorgeous, colorful projects…

1. SMOOTH SEWING Use an emery board to file rough edges on thread spools to prevent the thread from snagging. Eli F., email 2. BUTTON BACKUP When sewing men’s dress shirts, sew extra buttons to the lower inner front placket, mimicking ready-to-wear. When a button’s lost, there’s no need to search for one that matches. Barbara B., letter 3. CLEAVER CLIPS When making a garment that uses boning, use nail clippers to cut and trim the pieces. The clippers are easy to handle and produce a cleaner cut. Barb F., letter 4. BOBBIN RECYCLING Recycle unused bobbin thread for hand sewing. Secure the bobbin to a pincushion using a large-head straight pin for security. As you pull the thread the pin acts as a spindle, making for easy stitching. Gail…

Hi, I’m SN: Describe your perfect day. MF: Puh-lease! How is this even a question? Sewing. Duh! My perfect day includes heading into my office/sewing room bright and early and making a bra, bralette or lingerie set. I’d have no tension issues, the needle would be the exact type and size needed for my project, the thread would match perfectly and so would the seams. All pieces would come together, and the seam ripper wouldn’t appear at any point. SN: What’s the last hobby you picked up? MF: Sewing. Twelve years ago. I’m still hooked. SN: What’s your spirit animal? MF: I’m going to be cliché and say wolf. I’m very intuitive, waking up early every day to run, cycle and/or meditate. I also use my intuition and instincts to…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Turtleneck sewing pattern (such as BurdaStyle #121 09/2010)• 21/2-3 yards of 55"-wide stretch velvet knit fabric (amount according to measurements)• 1 yard of 1"-wide elastic• Ballpoint or stretch sewing machine needle• Clear gridded ruler• Tracing or pattern paper• Tracing wheel• All-purpose thread PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. For this style, use the front, back and sleeve patterns. Choose your pattern size based on the bust and waist measurements. If they indicate different sizes, blend a line using a straight or curved ruler to create a custom size line. Use the waist notch along the side seam as a waistline reference and the underarm point as the bustline reference. If you have a short torso, measure the…

THE BASICS Sergers, also known as overlock machines, use multiple thread strands to construct a strong seam that encloses the raw fabric edge, eliminating fraying and the need for an additional seam finish. Check out the interior of almost any ready-to-wear garment, and you’ll find that the seams are most likely finished by a serger. Serged seams contain more stretch than a conventional sewing machine seam, so sergers come in handy when working with knits or other stretchy fabrics. Because a serged seam is comprised of multiple thread strands, serger thread differs from standard all-purpose sewing thread. Basic serger thread isn’t as strong as all-purpose thread, and is spun onto a cone in a much larger amount than a cylindrical spool. Most sergers vary from conventional sewing machines because they…

JUMPSUIT STYLING The key to making a jumpsuit work for you is appropriate accessories. Follow these tips to add killer jewelry, cool shades and, of course, the right shoes. 1. Sporty & Casual Choose a short sleeve, belted waist and loosely fitted leg. Use a bold printed fabric and pair with: • Top knot• Round-frame sunglasses• Drawstring backpack• Tennis shoes 2. Downtown Layers Look for spaghetti strap, faux wrap top and a wide pant leg. Style accordingly: • Wide brim hat• Reflective sunglasses• Cotton knit turtleneck• Saddlebag• Platform booties 3. Boss Lady Pick a dropped shoulder sleeve, collar, lapels, and tie waist sewn up in a classic pinstripe, then add: • Metallic jewelry (large hoop earrings, boyfriend watch)• Minimal chain bag• Wedge heels or wedge mules 4. Simple Wow Factor…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make four 63/4"-long toggles. • Toggle tab pattern• 7"×10" rectangle of suede• Four 2"-long toggles• Size 100/16 leather needle• Heavyweight thread• Glue: fabric & super or leather glue PREPARE Download the toggle tab pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until Nov. 30, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print, and then cut out. Using the tab pattern, trace and cut out eight tabs on the suede rectangle wrong side. From the suede, cut eight 1/4"×7" strips. CONSTRUCT Thread each strip through each toggle button, making sure the strip short ends are even. Position one tab wrong side up on a flat work surface. Position one strip with a toggle over the tab, centering the strip short ends within the tab. Make sure the…

BROWN BAGGING IT “Paper-bag” in terms of garments usually refers to high-waisted skirts or pants with extra fabric above and around the waist. While adding volume around your waistline might initially sound like a bad idea, with the right proportions and adequate styling, paper-bag waist pants are very flattering on most figures. In ready-to-wear garments, paper bag waists will often feature extra pleats at the waist, which often results in too much bulk in an area that doesn’t need it. In the featured pant, the waistband is a straight rectangle that allows for a cinched effect, and the higher-positioned waist visually elongates the leg and creates the illusion of a smaller waist. In terms of balancing this silhouette, steer clear from too much volume on the upper body. The pants…

Have you sewn jeans? What’s the most intimidating part of making your own jeans? (Multiple selections allowed.) Fit — 59% Fly Front – 28% Topstitching – 13% Picking the right style – 13% Sourcing fabric – 12% Dealing with stretch – 7% Other – 6% Which rise do you prefer? Do you plan to sew jeans? What's the major factor in keeping you from sewing jeans? Possible fit issues – 55% Intimidating techniques – 34% Readymade jeans work – 18% Time investment – 13% Other – 20% What’s your favorite jean style? What’s your favorite denim wash? Deep indigo – 50% Medium indigo – 31% Black denim – 7% Bleached denim – 5% Colored denim – 4% Other – 3%…

Sitting at the natural waist, this asymmetrical wrap skirt is universally flattering and looks particularly great on curvy figures by accentuating the waistline. Experiment with the length to find what suits you best, and consider alternative closure options, such as an exposed metal zipper, loops and a tie for a corseted look, big buttons or hidden snaps for a more subtle option. On warmer days, pair it with a white or denim button-up shirt and flats. For cooler weather, wear it with a cozy knit sweater, buffalo check flannel or a thin turtleneck, ankle boots and opaque tights.…

When it comes to sewing, it’s easy to get lost in the process. Often we’re sewing for someone else or have to meet a deadline, and we feel pressure to create a perfect project or to finish fast. Choosing to document what we’re making can help us appreciate our progress and connect with the joy of sewing. The best way to do this is to keep some kind of journal that’s devoted just to our sewing passion. Taking notes helps you fully integrate what you’ve learned in two ways. First, the process of writing something down helps you learn and retain new information. And second, looking back at your notes helps to solidify your understanding. Producing the notes and reviewing them are both beneficial to the learning process. If learning…

Soft and comfortable, the Shabby Chic look is one of the most inviting home-décor styles. Colors range from all shades of white and creams to light and dusty pastels. Toile, floral and gingham are the most common textile patterns. The textiles often create a feminine tone with ruffles, pleats and slipcovered furniture. Furnishings take on a vintage vibe with mixtures of painted, stained and distressed woods, along with metallic patinas and ironwork. This airy and extra-cozy look is the home-décor style of someone who loves to make everyone feel at home.…

SUPPLIES • Mesh rhinestone fabric (approx. 51/2"×26"; see “Source.”)• Knit fabric (approx. 51/2"×27")• Hook-and-loop tape• Hand-sewing needle• Invisible thread• Wire cutter• Binding clips• Paint-like marker Download the headband template from sewnews.com. Measure template around head circumference, adding or removing any necessary length at the template long ends. Trace the template on the mesh fabric wrong side using an opaque marker. Trace the template on the knit fabric, adding 1/4" around all edges. Using wire cutters, carefully cut between the rhinestones on the traced template, avoiding cutting any rhinestones. Cut out the traced knit template. Cut two 2"×13/4" rectangles from the hook-and-loop tape. Attach the hook-side of the tape to the right side of one long-end of the rhinestone mesh, and the loop-side to the right side of one knit-fabric long…