Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2018 - January 2019 i Sew News

1. STICKY PICKUP Make your own lint roller using an empty toilet paper roll wrapped with sticky-side-up packaging tape to pick up threads on fabric yardage. Bonnie S., email 2. SLICK THREADING Instead of moistening the end of the thread before threading it through the needle eye, try moistening the backside of the needle instead. The thread is attracted to the moisture and glides right through. Sue H., email 3. CRAFTY CARDS Save fabric scraps and use them to make holiday cards. Glue the scraps to card stock, and then stitch the perimeter. Fold the card in half and write a special greeting inside. Deborah R., letter 4. BOBBIN ORGANIZING If you have multiple sewing machine brands and types, store the bobbins in a color-coordinated craft box to easily sort…

Hi, I’m SN: Describe your perfect day. BJJ: My perfect day would involve having a Netflix marathon on my couch and eating pizza... the whole day! I'd be sick the next day but it'd be totally worth it! SN: What’s the last hobby you picked up? BJJ: Fishing! My husband loves to fish, and we decided we'd teach each other a little bit of our favorite hobbies. I went fishing and loved it but he hasn't come to the sewing machine yet. SN: What’s your spirit animal? BJJ: A bear! And I say that because of my family. I literally turn into a mama bear over them. SN: What’s your best way to decompress? BJJ: Cleaning. When I get really stressed or overwhelmed, I reach for the cleaning supplies. By…

Q How can I update an old pair of silk pants for the holidays? They’re made with lovely fabric and fit in the waist and hips but have unfashionably shapeless legs. A Here are two different ideas for giving your old silk pants a new lift: • If you’re drawn to wide-leg pants, add a full layer or two of chiffon over the silk pants to dress them up; see "Fancy Pants," page 24. Choose a pattern for wide pants with a fuller leg than the old pants. Lay the pattern on the existing pants or take some measurements to compare the crotch curve and the crotch length (1). Adjust the new pattern if necessary to reflect the shape of the original pants. Cut and construct the…

Create an upscale, embellished sweatshirt and celebrate the holidays without compromising on comfort. Paired with a dressy skirt or slacks, these blouses fit the bill for festive occasions. JUST BEAD IT Skill level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Sweatshirt pattern with a relaxed fit (such as Grainline Studio Linden Sweatshirt)• Sweatshirt knit fabric (amount according to pattern envelope)• Ribbing (amount according to pattern envelope; optional)• Thread: matching, all-purpose & contrasting (for the quilting)• Hand sewing needle• Removable fabric marker• Ruler• Pearl beads (30 to 40) CONSTRUCT After cutting the pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions, use the removable fabric marker to draw a grid of diagonal quilting lines on the sweatshirt front. On the finished sample at right, the quilting lines are spaced 2" apart. Stitch along each drawn line, using…

RUFFLE Skill level: Intermediate Create an elbow-length sleeve with a custom ruffle. SUPPLIES • Drop-shoulder sweater pattern (such as Itch To Stitch Uvita Top)• Sweater fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard)• All-purpose thread• Straight ruler• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker• Rotary cutting system PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace the sleeve pattern onto new pattern paper, transferring all markings. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the grainline and 3" below the sleeve cap. Cut along the line; discard the lower sleeve piece. Trace the neckline-facing pattern onto new pattern paper. Double…

In Part Three of our Bra Basics series, you’ll learn how to tackle fit issues and easily adjust finished pieces and patterns for custom lingerie that fits you like a glove. Once you know what fit problems to look for, they’re easy to correct. In addition, learn three basic strap application techniques. LARGE UNDERBUST BAND The underbust band should be evenly horizontal all around the chest. If the underbust band is sliding up in the back, it means the band is too large, and therefore not providing as much support as needed. To correct the issue, size down the band. Leave the cups the correct size, but shorten the band to allow it to sit snugly and smoothly without riding up. If you construct the bra again, make the bra…

Collars play a significant role in the overall look of a garment. They frame the face and neck and enhance the overall finished silhouette. Since they generally draw the eye upwards toward the face and neck, collars are often the style detail noticed first. Therefore, knowing how to properly sew them is important. Learn the tips and techniques the pros use to create collars that aren’t only beautiful but sit properly around the neckline. COLLAR TYPES There are a seemingly endless number of collar styles. Just do a simple internet search and the range of beautiful and interesting designs is both inspiring and mind boggling. Just one article can hardly scratch the surface of the information necessary to master the techniques for sewing collars. Rather than being all inclusive, this…

January 8: Seam Finishing Options January 15: Perfect Utility Pockets January 22: Installing a Separating Zipper THE PATTERN No me-made wardrobe is complete without a stylish anorak-style jacket. The Lonetree Jacket and Vest by Allie Olson fills that slot perfectly. A lightweight outer layer designed for chilly weather, View A features a full-length, two-piece sleeve with cuff while View B is a vest with armhole facings. Both views include a collar, front and back facings, optional hood and patch pockets with snap or button closures for a casual, utilitarian look. Recommended fabrics include canvas, corduroy, stretch twill, twill and chino. This intermediate pattern offers sizes XS through XXXXL. MEET THE DESIGNER: ALLIE OLSON Allie’s mom taught her to sew at age seven. Twenty-some years later, it’s all she can think…

JACKET PATTERNS Give the classic cape a modern update with dramatic volume. SKIRT PATTERNS Pick a basic shape with gathers, then up the impact with a bold print or metallic fabric. FINAL TOUCHES Mix metallic and neutrals for a modern look. Then add bright pumps that pop and a handbag or clutch with interesting textures, avoiding styles that need to be worn over the shoulder. Keep jewelry minimal — let that cape do the talking! FABRIC COLOR PALETTE TIP: With a dramatic shape like this cape, keep the colors muted.…

LET'S PARTY! Another year is coming to a close, and it’s time to kick up our heels and celebrate all of our sewing achievements in 2018. It’s good to reflect back on what you’ve made and what’s still in the queue, in order to set goals for the year ahead. I find I sew much more when I have a plan, even if it’s very general, such as “use that great jersey fabric in my stash,” or “finally sew a pair of jeans that fit.” Maybe you’re more organized than me and can plot your makes even further, setting monthly goals that will get you out of the stores trying on endless outfits and into your sewing room stitching up some new favorites. Get inspired by how other sewists set…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Dec. 31, 2018. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Meet the Ovo 150GT. It’s an iron. It’s a steamer. It’s both! But don’t be fooled by its charm. This portable powerhouse travels light and takes out wrinkles without taking up space. The Dec '18/Jan '19 winners will receive an Ovo 150GT. Retail Value: $49.00. Congratulations to the Oct/Nov ’18 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five readers to…

TRIM SEAM ALLOWANCES Seam allowances are usually trimmed if they interfere with the garment fit, such as along an armscye or crotch seam. Trim straight seams that are pressed open in order to reduce bulk inside the garment. Trim both seam allowances together when working with lightweight fabric (1). Trim each seam allowance independently when working with heavyweight fabrics to ensure ease and accuracy. Trim seam allowances to 1/4" when working with tightly woven fabric and 3/8" when working with loosely woven fabric. Trim intersecting seam allowances. Trim each seam upper point to reduce bulk (2). Trim points, such as those on collars, to reduce bulk for a smooth and flat seam on the fabric right side. Trim points diagonally close to the stitching line and taper the sides downward…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Slim-fitting pants pattern (such as BurdaStyle #113A 08/2017)• 2 yards of 55"-wide opaque fabric• 3 yards of 55"-wide chiffon• Woven fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• 9"-long invisible zipper• Rulers: clear gridded & curved• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. If using the featured BurdaStyle pattern, prepare all the pattern pieces. Measure the waist and hip circumferences and note which size corresponds with both of these measurements. If the measurements indicate different sizes, blend a line using a straight or curved ruler to create a custom size line. Use the pattern upper edge and the curved upper side-seam area as the waistline reference, and indicate where the side seam becomes straight near…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Basic pencil skirt pattern with a center-back zipper (such as McCall’s 3830)• Woven fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1 yard)• 11/4 yard of lining fabric• Zipper (length according to the pattern envelope)• Pattern or tracing paper• Clear tape• Rulers: clear straight-edge and curved• All-purpose thread PREPARE Before making any modifications, trace all pattern pieces required for the selected pattern. Make a muslin sample according to your measurements and make any fit adjustments to the pattern. Trace the front pattern onto pattern paper, flipping at the center front to create a full-front pattern. Transfer all markings, including center front. Trace the back pattern, then flip and trace the reverse pattern. Transfer all markings and draw a line down the center back of both pieces…

Skill level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pillow cover. • 1 yard of wool blend or flannel fabric• Thirteen 3"-diameter laser-cut felt or wool snowflakes• Matching cotton thread• 22"-long invisible zipper• Presser feet: darning or free-motion, invisible zipper or zipper• Permanent spray adhesive• 20" square pillow form• Presser feet: free-motion or darning & invisible zipper (optional)• Craft beads (amount & size as desired) CUT From the wool blend or flannel fabric, cut two 201/2" squares. Designate one square as the pillow front and the other as the pillow back. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Position the front panel right side up on a flat work surface. Using permanent spray adhesive, spray the snowflake wrong sides. Position the snowflakes on the pillow front as…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 3/4 yard each of reversible sequin fabric, automotive headliner fabric, lining & lightweight fusible interfacing (See “Sources.”)• 47" length of replacement handbag chain (See “Sources.”)• Thread: contrasting button or craft & matching all-purpose• Hand sewing needle• Zipper foot• Binding clips (See “Sources.”)• Wire-wrapped eyebrow razor (See “Sources.”)• Tailor’s chalk• Rotary cutting system• 1"-diameter magnetic snap CUT Download and print the Sequin Season Bag pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until Jan. 31, 2019. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. From the sequin fabric, cut two main panels on the fold. From the lining, cut two main panels on the fold and two pockets. From the automotive headliner fabric, cut two main panels on the fold and one 3"×8" rectangle for the strap extender. From the…

Find out common fit issues with handmade underwear and how to easily fix the problems. Long Crotch If you have wide hips, but don’t carry weight in your stomach or derriere, or if you wear a larger plus size, sometimes there’s too much room in the crotch of underwear. To correct this fit issue, construct a sample of the chosen underwear, shortening the crotch to a comfortable length. Record the amount of fabric removed. Subtract that measurement from the leg elastic lengths; record as the new length measurement. Trace the crotch pattern piece, and then remove the new length measurement from the crotch center. Don’t alter the curves at the crotch front or back. Re-draw the crotch curves, and then designate as the new crotch pattern.…

1. What does RST mean? 2. How often should one change the needle on a sewing machine? 3. What does interfacing do? 4. Do bias cut garments require more fabric yardage or less? 5. Who invented the sewing machine? Thomas Saint, Elias Howe or Isaac Singer? 6. What does “nap” mean on sewing patterns? 7. What is a fat quarter? 8. What is calico? 9. When was the golden age of sewing? 10. What is the most common seam allowance on US sewing patterns? 11. What type of fabric is made from a bug? 12. How do you pink a seam? Visit sewdaily.com/blogs/sewing-triviato see how you scored!…

STEPHANIE BRACELIN Send in the Flounce — page 36 DANA BONTRAGER Hack It: Jackets — page 48 DELPHINE COLBEAU Hack It: Sweatshirts — page 32 RAE CUMBIE Curve Appeal: Sleeves & SIlk — page 20 My personal sewing resolution for 2019 is to shape up some of my early wearable art jackets so they have a more contemporary fit. First on the list is the jacket featured in the "Make it Fit" Sew News article "Fitting a Square Armhole," in the October 2007 issue. fitforartpatterns.com ABBY GLASSENBERG Common Thread: Stash Stigma — page 76 I’ve just recently begun sewing clothes for myself. I’ve made a Rushcutter Dress from In The Folds and three Grainline Willow Tanks, and I’m looking forward to tackling some projects with knits in the coming months.…

The ruffle trend is still going strong, and this skirt style, which has been seen on runways and red carpets, is a great way to get into that trend without going overboard. Created from a basic pencil skirt pattern, it’s a quick and easy hack — and it’s actually a flounce, so no gathering required! The lining is uncomplicated to install and finishes the curved hem in a snap, leaving a clean interior for twirling. Easily make the ruffle bigger, smaller, longer or shorter depending on your style. Sew it up in a fun metallic print for a glam look or go more traditional for a striking contrast of styles.…

PATTERN HACKING BASICS • Choose a pattern that’s as close to the desired finished look as possible. Look for a pattern that has similar structural elements, not necessarily the same design elements. • Always test-fit the pattern and make any fit adjustments before alteration. • Use the technical line drawing on the pattern envelope to sketch over using your desired design changes. The drawing is a good reference when beginning to alter the pattern pieces. • Trace a copy of the original pattern after fitting, and then trim away the seam allowances. It’s easier to change a pattern without the distraction of seam allowances. Once the redesign is complete, add in the seam allowances. • If using a multi-size pattern, trace a copy of the original pattern after fitting, eliminating…

Learn quick tips and tricks to easily work with sequin fabric. • When cutting sequin fabric on the fold, use pattern weights to secure the fabric. If desired, use tailor’s chalk to trace the full pattern onto the sequin fabric wrong side, and then cut out. • Removing the sequins from within the seam allowance reduces seam bulk and prevents damage to the needle and sewing machine during stitching. • If working with non-reversible sequin fabric, it may not be necessary to remove the sequins from the seam allowance before sewing. Test-stitch a fabric scrap to determine if the sequins break, shred or otherwise damage the yardage or needle. If the sequins break apart when sewn, the fragments could fall into the machine, causing costly damage.…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Sheath dress pattern with long sleeves (such as Butterick 4386 or 5627)• Dress fabric, interfacing & notions (amount according to pattern envelope minus the sleeve pattern)• 1 yard of 54"-wide lightweight tulle or chiffon• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Straight ruler• Clear tape PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER If the base pattern doesn’t include raglan sleeves, draw a line connecting the armscye with the neckline on the front and back pattern. On the front pattern, draw a curved line 21/2" from and parallel to the neckline, connecting the shoulder seam…

Like an artist with tubes of paint in every color, many sewists find having a well-rounded fabric stash grants them the freedom to dive into new projects when inspiration strikes. Gillian Whitcombe is the founder of The Sewcialists, a community blog for people who love to sew, and is an enthusiastic stash builder. “I get fidgety and lose my ‘sew-jo’ when I don’t have at least several options for each kind of fabric that I like to sew: rayon knits, pontes, French terry, sweater knit, stretch denim and so on,” she says. Whitcombe sews prolifically and says her stash grows very slowly because she’s using so much of it. For some of us, though, a stash can balloon out of control, and quickly. Melissa Quaal is an avid sewer and…

SEW LUXE LEATHER by Rosanna Clare Gethin With just a few basic tools, you can create chic fashion-forward leather items in no time. Choose from a wide range of 20 exciting accessories including hand-stitched, machine sewn and no-sew projects. This book features all the essential leather craft techniques, from scoring and hole punching to embossing and burnishing. interweave.com SEW… THE GARMENT-MAKING BOOK OF KNOWLEDGE by Barbara Emodi This is the how-to book of sewing wisdom you always wanted. Get the inside scoop on sizing and alteration, patternless sewing, what to sew and what to buy and many other topics. Mini-lessons are sprinkled throughout, as are tips and ideas on choosing and using the best fabric, supplies and machines. ctpub.com VISIBLE MENDING by Jenny Wilding Cardon Rips, snags and tears all…