Indholdsfortegnelse for February - March 2019 i Sew News

1. PINTUCK PERFECT Use an Edge Stitch foot to sew perfect pintuck pleats. Wendy W., email 2. PRACTICE & REPURPOSE Instead of buying actual muslin fabric, use quilting fabric to make a toile. After noting any needed alterations on the paper pattern pieces, take the toile apart and cut it into usable pieces for your next pieced project. Jeanne F., email 3. HANDY HOLSTER Fashion a handy scissor holder from cardboard tubing from wrapping paper. Decorate the tube with washi tape, wrapping paper or fabric scraps, attach it to your sewing machine table and store scissors in it, point down. Mary T, Facebook 4. BOBBIN’S BEST FRIEND If you don’t have an automatic bobbin fill reminder, wind two bobbins when you start a new project. Use one on the spool…

SN: Tell us a bit about yourself. JK: I’ve been sewing since I was a little boy. My Gran, who was a fantastic sewer and maker, taught me pretty much everything. I started on a hand-crank Singer and had a go at making all sorts of things. I continued to sew throughout my adulthood but generally just one or two things a year. When I got married in 2014, it kick-started my sewing adventures again: I wanted six tweed waistcoats and due to the costs, I decided to sew my own. Since that day, I’ve been sewing practically every day. SN: Who has been influential in your sewing journey? JK: One of my biggest influencers has been the tailor Andrew Ramroop from Maurice Sedwell. His style and design have really…

What do you do when you have a relatively small piece of pretty or precious fabric that you want to use but don’t know what to do with? There are several options, and one of them is to add a panel (or more than one!) to spruce up an existing garment like a denim jacket. The process is simple, but the end result is stunning. The samples feature leftover patchwork blocks, a piece of fabric with sashiko stitching and mermaid sequins, but any special or striking fabric works beautifully in this application. Search your stash and find the perfect scrap!…

For many, successful quilting is about precision, tradition and following directions. At the other end of the spectrum is improvisational piecing. With no patterns or templates to follow, scraps and strips are sewn together into larger blocks. Those blocks are then cut to size and joined into a quilt or re-cut and re-joined in unique ways to create an organic design. The process is very creative and freeing; perfection isn’t the goal as the focus is more on experimentation, exploration and finding your individual voice.…

In her designs, Natalie Ebaugh explores simple, utilitarian shapes, often combining elements of piecing, quilting and wearable art. Her work is characterized by a strong color palette and bold prints, creating an energizing, intricate and playful style. Natalie’s one-of-a-kind quilted coats are whimsical, colorful and visually stimulating. She starts by building each quilt top block-by-block through a mix of improv and traditional piecing styles. She then uses free-motion sewing techniques and automated free-motion designs to quilt her pieces. Once the quilting process is complete, Natalie cuts her jacket pattern pieces from the quilt, sews them together and binds the seams with bias-cut strips of fabric. Tell us about your background. When did you start sewing? My sister and I did a couple of sewing projects with our grandma when we…

Skill level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one tote bag. • 1 yard each of cotton canvas & lining• 58" length of 11/2"-wide cotton webbing• Matching all-purpose thread• Cutting machine (See “Sources.”)• Rose gold heat-transfer foil (See “Sources.”)• Pink & silver glitter heat-transfer film (See “Sources.”)• Heat press (optional; see “Sources.”) CUT From the canvas and lining fabric, cut one 22"×24½" rectangle each. Fold the canvas rectangle in half lengthwise with right sides together. Designate one short end as the upper edge. Mark 2" below the upper edge along the open long edge. Draw a curved line from the upper edge at the folded long edge to the marking; cut along the line (1). Repeat to curve the lining upper edge. Cut the webbing in half widthwise.…

In the last issue, we focused heavily on making perfect collar points—an important technique, as poor points draw attention to themselves and make the collar look shoddy. In this installment, we focus on other vital aspects of collar stitching, both inside and out. Read on to learn how to construct a perfect collar from beginning to end. INTERFACING As is the case with most garment sewing, the key to a well-made garment is the care and attention given to the inner construction. That usually involves some sort of interfacing to provide structure and body to areas such as plackets, cuffs and especially collars. A good collar stands firm against the center back, rolls smoothly around the neckline and has crisp, well-defined corner points. That can only be accomplished with the…

I learned to sew in college for a job in my university’s theatre department. To be honest, I never expected to keep it up after graduation. In graduate school, I realized that I missed having a hobby totally separate from my academic studies, and I returned to my machine. Finding the sewing community on Instagram soon followed, and I started to meet people around the world who loved sewing just like I did. The number of younger people sewing astounded me, but I felt like each new friend was a true discovery. There had to be a way to unite all of these younger sewists, and so I started the hashtag #millennialsewing to bring folks together in one inspirational spot. Who exactly is a millennial? Well, like many other generational…

SHARE THE LOVE! It’s a new year and a chance to approach your sewing practice with fresh eyes. Do you have goals for 2019? I know I do! After finally sewing a bazillion basic wardrobe items—hello, jeans and t-shirts!—I’m ready to create some one-of-a-kind items. Perfect timing—this issue is full of ideas for just that! Take a basic shift and make it special with a variety of embellishments, including crystals and sequins, with “Shoulder Style” on page 64. Or head a different direction and make a basic pattern in luxe fabric like stretch velvet—we’ve got sewing tips and pattern recommendations for this amazing fabric on page 60. Is head-to-toe velvet a thing? We’ll also be spending part of the year focused on eco-sewing topics. We’re so excited to bring you…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Jan. 31, 2019. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Meet the Ovo 150GT. It’s an iron. It’s a steamer. It’s both! But don’t be fooled by its charm. This portable powerhouse travels light and takes out wrinkles without taking up space. The Feb/Mar '19 winners will receive an Ovo 150GT. Retail value: $49.00. Congratulations to the Dec '18/Jan ’19 Hide & Seek winners! Pat S., Berkeley, CA Jone…

TOTALLY PIECED PILLOW • Begin stitching fabric strips and squares together. Keep adding and trimming the pieced block as desired until it measures slightly larger than 20" square. • Follow the construction instructions for the Geometric Pillow to complete the pillow. TEENY PIECES POUCH • Stitch fabric strips together however they fit along straight edges. If needed, cut away pieces, and then add more as desired until the panel measures slightly larger than 12" square. • Follow the construction instructions for the Striped Zipper Pouch eliminating the boxed corners and adding a D-ring tab.…

For a fresh, modern look, start with a modern quilt pattern. Follow a specific pattern or pull blocks from multiple patterns and piece them together in a way that inspires you: • Jawbreaker quilt pattern or Meadowland quilt pattern by Then Came June • Pivot quilt pattern or Peak quilt pattern by Modern Handcraft • Solarium quilt pattern or Marrakech quilt pattern by Heather Jones Studio Create your color story. There is inspiration all around you! • Head outside. You can’t beat Mother Nature when it comes to awe-inspiring color. • Open up your closet. Are there colors schemes you naturally gravitate toward in what you wear everyday? • Shop your stash. Grab some of your fabric scraps at random and put together some eye-pleasing combinations. Once your quilt top…

• Choose different fabrics for the lip appliqués as desired. • Download the Lip Service appliqué template at sewnews.com/web_extras. Print out the template. • Trace the lips onto a piece of fusible web. • Adhere the fusible web to the fabric wrong side following the manufacturer’s instructions. • Cut out the lips. Remove the paper backing. • Position the lips onto the canvas rectangle as desired; fuse. • Topstitch the lips perimeter to secure. • Repeat to add the desired number of lips to the canvas fabric.…

Look for patterns that have simple lines and few finicky design details. It’s great to make a statement with a special occasion garment in velvet, but velvet can also transform a great basic pattern into a stunner, too. Generally speaking, patterns designed for stretch fabrics work best—just make sure they don’t require a higher stretch percentage than the fabric has. If so, consider sizing up. These patterns are great choices to showcase velvet fabric this season.…

Use this understitching method to get the perfect roll and beautiful points. Trim away all interfacing seam allowances around the perimeter of the collar. Also trim off the interfacing collar point. Fuse or baste stitch the interfacing to the collar piece or pieces. With right sides together, machine stitch the outer edge seam only. Begin with a stitch length of 1.0mm–1.5mm until 1/2" past the point, then raise the stitch length to standard. Stitch until 1/2" from the point, then reduce the stitch length to 1.0mm–1.5mm again to finish the seam. Grade the seam allowances so the upper collar allowance is slightly wider than the under collar. Press the seam allowances towards the under collar. From the right side, understitch the under collar from end to end (A). This keeps…

Exclusively for Sew News Grab the pattern and join us for the Estes Dress Sew Along in March. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing and follow along on the Sew Daily blog: March 5: Sweater Knits & Knit Sewing Tips March 12: Fabric Selection March 19: Garment Construction Tips THE PATTERN The Estes Dress is the perfect cool-weather dress. Featuring a cowl neckline and three-quarter-length sleeves, the dress is fitted through the shoulders and bust and flairs subtly toward the hem. The dress hits just below the knee but can be hemmed to any length to suit your style and wardrobe needs. Go short for a cute, wintery mini or long for a dramatic (and cozy!) statement dress. Recommended fabrics include cotton Lycra, Lycra spandex, ITY, sweater knit, French terry and…

Tune in for a little SEW & TELL! If you haven’t heard, we’ve launched a brand new sewing podcast featuring Meg Healy of BurdaStyle and Amanda Carestio and Kate Zaynard of Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery. Find our episodes at sewdaily.com/sewandtell. Modern Sewing, Seam by Seam Join us in London this fall! We’ve partnered with Craftours to bring you a vacation of a lifetime. We’ll see the sights, eat and drink like locals, shop for fabric and more! Learn more at craftours.com.…

1. Add a touch of glam to your fastenings with Dritz Sew-on Flower Snaps and Hooks and Eyes. The snaps each feature eight petal-shaped loops that can be sewn through and delicate interior details in black or white. The hooks and eyes are subtle, but definitely a step up, with a textured finish, rhinestone elements or clean, attractive geometric lines in silver or gunmetal. dritz.com 2. You don’t clean your silk dress the same way you wash your cotton jeans. Now let your iron differentiate between materials, too. The first to feature a touchscreen control panel similar to smartphone technology, the CHI Touchscreen Clothing Iron allows you to choose the material, temperature or power for a customized experience in your sewing room. The touchscreen technology also provides peace of mind…

Follow these helpful tips to stitch beautiful bindings every time. • Use a walking foot to apply binding, especially on a quilt (A). The foot feeds all of the layers together so that the binding is evenly stitched and not stretched. • Use a guide on the presser foot and adjust the needle position to ensure consistent seam allowances. • Use double-sided adhesive tape to hold the binding around the edge for stitching. Place the tape on the back seam allowance, and then remove the protective paper. Wrap the binding around the edge and press firmly onto the tape. Secure the binding with hand or machine stitching (B). • Use fusible thread in the bobbin when attaching the binding. After stitching, wrap the binding to the wrong side; press to…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting jacket pattern (such as BurdaStyle #111A 08/2018)• 21/2 yards of linen or other light- to mediumweight jacket fabric• Fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: clear straight & curved• Hand-sewing needle• Tape PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile, and tape together the pattern pieces. If using the featured BurdaStyle pattern, set aside the sleeve facing (piece 8). Choose the pattern size based on the bust measurement. ALTER To create the sleeve slits, extend the sleeve hems by taping extra paper to the sleeve-front lower edge. Using the straight ruler, extend the grainline 8" beyond the sleeve hem (1). Extend the grainline opposite end so it intersects with the armhole curve at the sleeve-pattern upper edge. Align the ruler to the…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Readymade denim jacket• Reversible sequin fabric, patchwork or orphan quilt blocks or sashiko fabric (amount according to desired embellishment and measurements)• Matching all-purpose thread• Marker• Removable fabric marker• Zipper foot• Size 90/14 denim needle• Freezer paper• Rotary cutting system DRAFT Determine the sections on the jacket to be covered. Center a piece of freezer paper over the desired area with the shiny side facing the jacket. Using a medium-heat iron, lightly press the paper over the jacket, making sure to get close to the seams. Using a marker, trace the first jacket-section perimeter (1). Remove the paper, and then cut out the pattern. Repeat to pattern any remaining jacket sections. CUT To cut the sequin fabric, position the first pattern over the fabric wrong side,…

STRIPED ZIPPER POUCH Basic pieced strips transform a simple zippered pouch into a dynamic accessory. Add hand stitching for another textural element. Skill level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 91/2"×111/2" zipper pouch. • Cotton fabric scraps• Two 10"×12" rectangles each of coordinating cotton fabric, fusible fleece or batting & lightweight interfacing• 12"-long zipper• Embroidery floss or Perle cotton• Hand-sewing needle• All-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker• Point turner or chopstick CUT From the fabric scraps, cut strips approximately 2"×121/2". Don’t precisely measure the width. Instead, estimate the measurements for an organic and random look. From one fabric scrap, cut two 2"×3" zipper tabs. PIECE Use 1/4" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Stitch the strips together along the long edges with right sides together as desired until the…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 13/4 yards of 45"-wide or 11/4 yards of 54"-wide rayon fabric• Lightweight fusible interfacing• 6"-long metal zipper• Matching all-purpose thread• Zipper foot• Removable fabric marker• Ruler Tip: Select a zipper weight that corresponds to the chosen fabric weight. CUT Download and print the Five Points Blouse pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until March 31, 2019. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing after the expiration date. From the fabric, cut one front bodice on the fold, one back bodice on the fold, two yokes, two sleeve bands on the fold and one 1/2"×34" bias strip for the neckline binding. Refer to the cutting layouts on page 49. From the interfacing, cut one 2"×7" rectangle. Tip: Cut the yoke from a contrasting fabric for more visual interest. CONSTRUCT Use 1/4"…

QUILTED PILLOW Skill level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pillow cover. • 5/8 yard of at least 45"-wide fabric• Two 21" square batting pieces• Matching all-purpose thread• 18"-long invisible zipper• Water-soluble fabric marker• 20" square pillow form• Presser feet: zipper foot, walking foot (optional) & invisible zipper (optional)• Straight clear ruler (optional)• Hand-sewing needle or basting safety pins (optional)• Serger (optional) CUT Prewash, dry and press the fabric. From the fabric, cut two 21" squares. Designate one square as the pillow front and the other as the pillow back. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Position the pillow front right side up on a flat work surface. Draw a diagonal straight line from the lower-left corner to the upper-right corner using a water-soluble fabric…

START SIMPLE Stretch velvet’s luxurious texture attracts attention on its own. For this reason, opt for simple styles that have clean lines and minimal detailing, so the pronounced nap doesn’t interfere with the style lines and intricate components like plackets or collars. Take the time to tissue fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the pattern. Even when working with a stretch fabric, fitting a pattern, however simple, is essential to achieving great results. Ripping seams to fix mistakes may cause irreversible damage to the velvet. If the pattern requires buttonholes, consider replacing them with loops, noting the change on the pattern. Machine buttonholes create bulk and will crush the pile. Preshrink the fabric before cutting. Allow it to dry right side out on a shower curtain rod or other…

PATTERN SELECTION Almost any garment style, from a casual jacket to an evening gown, can be embellished on the shoulders. Look for patterns with a high enough neckline to provide sufficient shoulder area to embellish. Different patterns have different armscye curves. To use the shoulder template on a different pattern than the featured sample, pin the pattern front and back shoulders along the seam allowance lines. Position the provided template along the armscye seamline. Make adjustments to the curved edge as needed to match the pattern armscye curve. PREPARATION Download the shoulder template at sewnews.com/web_extras. Print out. Trace a right and left copy onto pattern paper according to the selected pattern size. Use the template as a pattern, placement guide, stitching guide and an interfacing or stabilizer pattern. Use lightweight…

“If it’s not lime green, I’m not wearing it!” BurdaStyle Online Editor; Lead Educator, BurdaStyle Academy “I’m a slightly crunchy sewist with a deep love for linen and boxy silhouettes.” Senior Editor, Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery “Ask me about costume history... and also about my cats!” Creative Editor, Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery Welcome to the Sew & Tell Podcast! Listen in for some lively banter from your hosts, Meg, Amanda and Kate. They’ll be offering up some great tips and expert knowledge along with some fun. They each have their own sewing background—fashion, theater and indie sewing—so they each bring their own unique perspective on the hottest topics in the sewing community. And who knows, you may also be…

The perfect cool-weather dress, this design is the perfect blend of comfy and chic, plus it’s great for a variety of body types. Sew it in French terry for a sporty look or go high end in textured ponte or sweater knit, then pair accordingly. Pair the Estes Dress with a formal trench in a bright shade for an uptown edge (1). Add a wide belt for subtle, artful shaping (2). Layer on a leather jacket for a dynamic mix of textures and a slight urban feel (3). Add embroidered elements and high boots for a look that pops (4).…

Geodesic, Blueprints for Sewing With a cropped version perfect for high-waist pants and a tunic-length version featuring pockets that integrate with the pieced panels, this pattern is a great pick if you’re looking for something a bit more special and interesting than your standard sweatshirt. Gemma Sweater, Named Clothing Featuring unique seamlines, the Gemma Sweater provides an on-trend pairing of sporty and sophisticated vibes. With the funnel neck and drawstring waist, this design serves double duty. And bonus, the pattern includes a maxi dress option. Pinnacle Top & Sweater, Papercut Patterns Retaining the round neckband, sleeve cuffs and waistband of a traditional sweatshirt, the Pinnacle features unique diagonal pieced panels and cut-on sleeves for a definite style upgrade. Designed for knits and wovens, the pattern has many built-in options. BurdaStyle…

BIG EMBROIDERY by Nancy Nicholson Get beautiful results using different types of yarn and fabric, including upholstery fabrics, woolens and tweeds to create a collection of stunning quick-to-stitch projects. Choose from home decor items such as cushions, bags, wall hangings and table runners, as well as ideas for embellishing clothing. Learn how to create all the key embroidery stitches with a stitch library featuring easy-to-follow diagrams of all the basic crewel embroidery stitches in detail. interweave.com SEW CUDDLY by Judy Gauthier The ultimate guide to sewing with plush fabrics, Sew Cuddly contains 12 snuggly projects for yourself and your home. Sew fun animal hats, a clutch purse, a sleeping bag, a floor pillow and more. Learn about stabilizers, how to appliqué and bind minkee quilts and tips for easier sewing…

When can you start wearing white after Labor Day? In winter, of course! Monochrome looks create a lean and sleek silhouette, and the combination of a cozy sweater and asymmetrical skirt makes for a chic look that you can easily wear to the office. This look suits any age and can be created even by a novice sewist. Best of all, you can make you own pullover without touching a pair of knitting needles—just opt for a sweater knit fabric! PULLOVER PATTERNS Look for a pattern with a loose and long silhouette that’s designed for knit fabrics. TIP: Pick a neckline and sleeve hem finish that suits your personal preference and style. SKIRT PATTERNS Look for an asymmetrical design with a hemline that has points and multiple levels. COLOR PALETTE…

MEG HEALY (“Pattern Play: Copper Tone Cape” — page 26) has a passion for sewing that led her to study Fashion Design in NYC where she also interned for Vera Wang as a pattern maker. She’s now the editor, lead educator and face of BurdaStyle.com, the world’s largest online sewing community. TINA LEWIS (“Shoulder Style” — page 64) designs and sews in the mountains above Park City, Utah. Trained in classic couture methods, she has worked for pattern, fabric and ribbon companies in addition to having careers in international business, politics, writing and event planning. LINDA REYNOLDS (“Masterclass: Collars, Part 2” — page 70) learned to sew at a very young age and has enjoyed it ever since. She loves sharing her passion for the craft as an instructor, teaching…