Indholdsfortegnelse for April - May 2017 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, It’s nice to have a plan of attack for sewing projects. If I write things down and stick to my wish list, I can accomplish many more things than if I choose random projects to sew with no end goal. This spring, I want a comfy yet fashionable top that takes me from work to evening (if I get the rare chance of to go out). An easy skirt to utilize some stretch knit yardage I’ve been hoarding for a few years is also on the list. In the “maybe” column is a versatile pair of pants. My list is short, but manageable—and all these items happen to be inside this issue. Aside from projects, I’m really looking forward to attending some sewing shows this spring. The Original…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due April 30, 2017. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The April/May ’17 winners will receive a special sewing prize! Congratulations to the Feb/Mar ’17 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive a fabulous prize. Jerrie R., Washington, PA Jenny E., Spanaway, WA Tommie H., Quinton, AL Camilla Y., Washington, DC Martha M., Corning, KS…

These really are two different fitting issues that often puzzle the garment sewist. The short-waist area of fit falls below the full bust, between the under bustline and the natural waist, whereas a long or short torso is a measurement from the shoulder to the natural waist. The short-waist area of fit is actually a smaller part of the overall torso length, whether it is long or short, and chances are that if you are adjusting one area of the torso, you will need to adjust the other area, too. Mathematically, your vertical length measurement from the shoulder to the waist can equal the pattern measurement, and yet the pattern may not fit you correctly. This is because this standard overall measurement is not reflective of what the actual proportion…

Mini Piping Great for children’s clothes and subtle accents, mini piping is made like regular piping, but filled with a very narrow cord, like Perle cotton or gimp cord. Use a presser foot that has a groove on the underside, such as a pintuck foot. Shirred Piping Offering a softer look than standard piping, shirred piping is made by cutting the bias strip longer than the cord, then gathering it onto the cord. Use a zipper foot to stitch easily over the extra bulk. • Cut the bias strip twice the length of the cord and add 1/4” to 1/2” to the width. Wrap the fabric around the cord and stitch across one short end to anchor the cord. • Stitch 3” to 4” along the cord, then stop with…

A MESSAGE FROM MEG, ONLINE EDITOR FOR BURDASTYLE I've made several of these tops, and I love them because they're easy to wear, keep me cool in hot weather and go with so many different bottoms. You can wear this top with high-waisted shorts, pants, skirt or even as a cover-up to the beach if you extend the hem to a dress length. Since it is not fitted, you can use almost any fabric to make this garment. I chose a lightweight cotton, but you could easily swap in a knit or even a drapey chiffon. Skill level: Easy SUPPLIES • Bodice sloper pattern (such as the BurdaStyle Basic Bodice and Sleeve Sloper)• 3/4 yard of non-stretch woven fabric• 1/4 yard of fusible woven interfacing• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing…

ATHLETE CHIC The athleisure look, designed to transition seamlessly from the gym to the street, is still going strong. Unique and stylish variations of standard sportswear are all the rage this spring. Jump on the trend with this take on the traditional sweatshirt. Add a touch of color and personality by choosing a brightly-printed sport knit for the cowl collar, or go for a more cozy feel with a coordinating sweater knit. Perfect for layering, pair this poncho with your favorite handmade leggings, and you’re ready for the gym. Or slip it on over a long-sleeved shirt, a pair of jeans, and knee-high boots and take to the town. SIZE CHART Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • 11/2 yards of sweatshirt fleece, fleece or sweater knit fabric• 3/8 yard of lightweight…

CLASSIC KIMONO Draft a pattern for a drapey kimono with contrasting neck and sleeve trim. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Lightweight drapey woven fabric (such as silky prints or charmeuse; amount depends on finished pattern dimensions)• Lightweight drapey fabric for trim (compatible weight to main fabric; amount depends on finished pattern dimensions)• Pattern or butcher paper• Rulers: curved & straight• Removable fabric marker or chalk• All-purpose thread• Rotary cutting system (optional)• Serger (optional) MEASURE Measure your hip circumference at the fullest point; record. Measure the distance across your back from shoulder point to shoulder point; record. Measure your arm from the shoulder point to the elbow; record, and then measure from the shoulder point to the wrist; record. Measure your arm to the desired sleeve length from the shoulder; anywhere…

Pencil skirts are always in fashion, especially pencil skirts made out of a comfortable knit that moves with your body and doesn’t constrain your movements. This self-drafted pattern has a build-your-own flounce for a fun touch. The sample is made from brightly printed scuba knit, but almost any knit would work. Try a soft jersey for a casual look, or find a unique spandex print to dress up the pattern. If you’re feeling daring, try a tightly-woven sweater knit. What are you waiting for? Find a knit that speaks to you, and get ready to flounce around. Fabric swatch images provided by Girl Charlee Fabrics: girlcharlee.com .…

Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • Tank top pattern with wide straps (such as Made by Rae’s Isla Pattern)• Mediumweight knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope)• 1/4 yard of stretch velvet• Pattern tracing paper PREPARE Trace the bodice front and back pattern pieces onto pattern paper. Cut out the pattern pieces. Overlap the shoulder seam by 5/8” to account for the seam allowance. Fold the pattern pieces together with wrong sides facing and the center front edges aligned (1). Working from the shoulder seam on the bodice front, along the inner neckline edge, measure and mark 2” from the seam. On the outer edge along the armhole, measure and mark 3” down from the shoulder seam. Connect the two marks. Repeat on the bodice back. Cut the pattern piece…

THE SLEEVE CAP The sleeve cap is the portion of the sleeve located above the bicep line — the curved section with a seamline that travels from the underarm seam over the shoulder and back to the corresponding underarm seam that's set into the armhole opening. There are six joining points on the cap that help center and guide the process of attaching it to the armhole opening. The main four are the underarm seam, the front and back notches and the shoulder seam point. The fifth and sixth points are the front and back ease dots, which aren't always marked on commercial patterns. They represent the portion of the cap where the extra fullness should be located and where the easing-in process will take place (1). SLEEVE CAP EASE…

• Always fit the armhole before setting the sleeves, as any changes to the armhole will directly impact the sleeve cap. • Mark the notches and ease points for both the sleeve and armhole opening. This ensures the cap is properly centered within the armhole and directs the extra fullness where it is supposed to be. • When possible, set the sleeve in a flat state. When working with fabrics with little or no give, it is sometimes helpful to set the sleeve before the garment side seams or sleeve underarm seams are complete. • Hand baste the sleeve in place before the final stitching. With pins out of the way, the machine stitching process is much easier. • Pin in stages between joining points to ensure ease is evenly…

JENNIFER DAVEY (“Layered Linen Bag” — page 34) has been sewing professionally for 18 years and currently works as a freelance designer. She lives in Clovis, CA, with her husband and three children and loves sharing her joy for creating with others. bestillmycraftingheart.blogspot.com MEG HEALY (“Pattern Play: Swing Time” — page 30) has a passion for sewing that led her to study Fashion Design in NYC where she also interned for Vera Wang as a patternmaker. She’s now the editor, lead educator and face of BurdaStyle.com, the world’s largest online sewing community. NICKI LAFOILLE (“Everyday Dolman” — page 26) is a mom of one human and two dogs, who travels with her small family around the country, finding creative inspiration for her sewing and writing. Her novel, Nautical Miles, is…

Use these pattern adjustment tips to create the perfect-fitting pattern. • Adjust the front and back torso patterns separately. • Do not adjust on the edge of an area of measure. Instead, adjust in the approximate center. This will distribute the adjustment evenly. • Your armhole might change when scaling the upper portion of the pattern. This is a normal temporary change that will be trued up after you scale the pattern. If you increased the bodice length and that step widened the armhole, simply draw a line up from the underarm the amount you increased the pattern and blend into the curve of the armhole. If you reduced the upper torso, drop the armhole by the amount reduced. This will give you the original armhole shape. Always make a…

While ideally piping begins and ends in a seam, occasionally it needs to be continuous, especially in pillows and other homedec projects. Follow these steps to flawlessly join piping ends. • Begin stitching the piping to the project on a straight edge away from converging seamlines if possible. Begin stitching 11/2” from the piping end. • Stitch around the project, ending 2” from the beginning with the needle down. Cut the piping so it overlaps by 1”. • Remove some of the stitching holding the fabric around the cording from the ends of the piping. Trim the cording ends so they abut. • Fold the piping raw end 1/2” toward the wrong side. Fold it around the piping beginning, and then continue stitching.…

BFF BLOUSE The dolman sleeve came to the fashion world in the 1910s and peaked in popularity in the 1940s. The shape of the shirt is flattering on all body types and is easily dressed up or down with fabric choice. Make one in a lacey sweater knit for an upscale look or french terry for sporty warmth. Our favorite? A simple striped jersey for every day, paired with accessories that pop. Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • 11/2 yards of knit fabric (yardage may vary slightly with size)• Matching all-purpose thread• Ballpoint needle• Pattern paper• French curve ruler & tracing wheel• Fabric measuring tape DRAFT Holding your arm straight out to the side, measure from your elbow to the center back of your neck; record. Measure from your shoulder to…

NOT YOUR TYPICAL BAG Constructing this fun crossover bag isn’t difficult, but it’s a little different from the steps you’d usually take when sewing a bag. When making this project, you’ll: • Create a two-toned strap with a sew-in fleece interior. • Insert divided pockets that are anchored in the side and lower bag seams. • Use simple quilting with variegated thread and brightly colored lining to add visual interest to a neutral exterior fabric. • Combine two high-low shaped bags into one unique piece. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 3/4 yard each of rustic linen & cotton lining• 1/3 yard of coordinating cotton lining for the pockets• 3/4 yard of sew-in high loft fleece• Two 11/2” rectangle rings• Temporary spray adhesive• Coordinating variegated all-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker• Ruler…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Denim jacket• 1 yard each of light- to mediumweight fashion fabric & lining fabric• 1 yard of fusible fleece interfacing• Denim sewing machine needle• Lint roller• Serger (optional) Note: If you’re using denim or a heavyweight fabric for the sleeves, it’s not necessary to use lining fabric or fusible fleece. PREPARE Remove both sleeves from the denim jacket using a seam ripper. Take apart one of the sleeves to use as a pattern. If the sleeve has more than one piece, separate the pieces. The jacket used for the sample has a sleeve front, sleeve back and a cuff (1). For a pop of coordinating color, remove the old topstitching from the jacket and replace with a new color. Remove the cuffs from the sleeves…

Kimonos have been appearing in many ready-to-wear fashion collections, and it’s no wonder, as they gracefully drape over the body and can dress up any plain outfit. They’ve recently come into vogue as a casual topper to wear over jeans and a simple top. Kimonos are often made from sheer or lightweight print fabrics, but the simple garment construction also lends itself to jersey or sweater knits as well. For a more glam option, stitch a kimono in sparkly fabric to wear over a basic black dress. To create a kimono, no pattern is required—just a few body measurements are used to draw the rectangles for the main body and sleeves. Fabric swatch images were provided by Art Gallery Fabrics ( artgalleryfabrics.com ) and Télio & Co. (…

A sewing label is used, quite simply, to indicate that a gift or garment is handmade. Sewing labels also provide a professional finishing touch, even if you’re sewing something basic for yourself. They can also communicate your branding, especially if you have a blog or website with a logo, which is useful if you intend to sell your items or if you’re interested in developing a unique and consistent wardrobe for yourself or your family members. If you don’t have a logo, don’t fret. A sewing label can simply be your name or your initials. Or no “labels” at all. Look at some of your favorite ready-made clothing for ideas. Consider small things you can do to brand your me-mades, like a small twill-tape or ribbon loop on the outside,…

I don’t jump on trends, necessarily, but I WILL look for every excuse to buy new fabric. It took me a while to warm up to the velvet trend, but I think I’m there, with two caveats: I don’t want to swim in it and it can’t be shiny. Given my current knit obsession, stretch velvet seemed like a good place to start. Rather than make a whole garment from the stuff, I decided to introduce it at the sleeve. Any raglan sleeve pattern would work for this technique, but if you don’t have one on-hand, read on for instructions on turning a basic wide-strap tank pattern into a raglan sleeve pattern.…

Sleeves are typically attached to the bodice after the shoulder and side seams are sewn and when all final fit adjustments to the seams have been made. It's important to recognize that any adjustments made to either of the seams will change the armhole opening, which directly impacts the size and shape of the sleeve cap. For this reason, it's always best to delay cutting out the sleeve pattern until the armhole is finalized. The armhole must be right before the sleeve is set. By delaying the cutting, you can make any necessary corresponding adjustments to the cap so the fit and set is just right. This prevents any unrecoverable alterations or unnecessary wear and tear on the fashion fabric.…

MARCH RAVENNA TOP THE PATTERN The Ravenna Top is a great basic wardrobe builder, perfect in both woven and knit fabrics and a definite stylistic step above the basic tee. With plenty of details, such as ruffle edging, an exposed zipper at the back and two sleeve length options, this beginner-friendly blouse is easily customized to fit your style and mood. The pattern sews up beautifully in a huge variety of fabrics including chambray, lawn, linen, rayon, silk, voile and knit. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com! SEW ALONG SCHEDULE Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com and join us on the Sew News blog as Kimberly covers the following special topics: March 14: Constructing Darts March 21: Installing Exposed Zipper March 28: Attaching Bias Tape SSD Straight Stitch Designs MEET THE DESIGNER:…

TEXTILES Think solid-colored velvets, touches of silk and dark-hued sheers. Fabrics are detailed with golden embroidered hems and beaded embellishment. THE LOOK Hair is long with loose curls, cheekbones are highlighted and paired with dark eye shadow and a matching dark lip. COLOR Jewel tones, metallic and everything black. ADD ACCESSORIES Pair with lace-up high-heeled boots, long pendant necklaces, chandelier earrings and fur shawls. SILHOUETTE Try a high neckline, empire waist, bell sleeves with a floor-length hemline.…

Nancy Zieman founded Nancy's Notions in 1979, a direct mail company specializing in sewing notions, supplies and accessories. She's also the TV host of Sewing with Nancy, a half-hour TV show that's been on the air since the fall of 1982. Nancy has written several sewing books, designed patterns for the McCall's Pattern Company and developed tools for Clover Needlecraft, just a few of many accomplishments of this beloved sewing personality. What’s your spirit animal? What’s the last hobby you picked up? If you were a sewing superhero, what would your name be? What do you consider your greatest achievement? Who is your dream client and what would you want to create for him/her? When did you learn to sew? What's your must-have sewing tool? Where do you find inspiration?…

There are so many sewing pattern options, it’s a bit overwhelming choosing which ones are right for you — and even more difficult if you’re curvy. It’s incredibly frustrating spending hours or days on a project only to find it doesn’t fit well or look good. Picking a good plus-size pattern is essential for great results. Luckily, there are a few things you can look for to maximize your chance of success. 1 Drafted for your size. By far the easiest option is to buy a sewing pattern that’s already in your size. There are quite a few sewing pattern companies that include plus sizes, including Colette Patterns (up to US 28), Style Arc (up to Australian 32) and Cashmerette Patterns (up to a US 28 G/H). It’s even better…

Start with a square of fabric (a rectangle will work, too). To check that the size will yield enough bias tape, multiply the length minus 1” by the width minus 1”, then divide by the width of the bias tape you’ll be cutting. The result will be the inches of bias tape the square will yield. Place the square on a flat work surface and fold in half, corner to corner. Cut along the fold, then “unfold” along the cut line so the two triangles are positioned as if they were the original square (A). Move the right triangle to the left of the left triangle without changing its orientation (B). Stitch the adjacent sides together with right sides facing and 1/2” seam allowances. Press the seam open (C). Mark…

Learn how to implement several variations on the Everyday Dolman pattern to create different looks. • Extend the length line for a tunic-style top. • Curve the side seam in toward the waist from the cuff for a more fitted dolman sleeve (A). • Extend the elbow/neck measurement to create longer sleeves. Stitch wider cuffs for a different look. • Shape the side seam in under the sleeve, and then back out at the hip for a sweeping hem. • Lower the side seam and curve the hem up to the center for an asymmetrical detail (B).…

Deciding what you’re going to sew for each season can seem like a daunting task. I don’t know about you, but sometimes when I plan to sew something, I spend so much time trying to decide what pattern and fabric to use that I end up not sewing anything at all. That’s the reason I started planning my sewing around creating seasonal wardrobes. Unlike most people in the fashion industry, I think there are no rules when it comes to style, and what matters is how you feel in the clothes you wear and how that translates to who you are and what story you're telling people. BACKGROUND My focus on the MimiGStyle.com blog has always been fashion sewing. Because of that, I wouldn’t often sew casual items that I…

Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • Knit fabric (amount depends on measurements)• Matching all-purpose thread• 1”-wide elastic (amount depends on measurements)• Pattern paper• Measuring tape• Serger (optional) DRAFT On your body, measure from the desired skirt upper edge to the desired hem; record. Subtract 7” from the recorded length to account for the flounce. The featured skirt is 23” long, including the flounce. Add 2” to the length to account for the waistband and hem allowance. Measure your body circumference at the widest part of your hips. Don’t add seam allowances to the side seams. Because the skirt uses knit fabric, it should be a bit snug across the hips to achieve a nice drape. (This is called negative ease.) Divide the hip measurement in half; record. Cut a piece of…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Basic straight-leg pants pattern with front & back darts (such as Vogue 9181)• Linen fabric and notions (double the fabric amount listed on the pattern envelope)• 8” zipper• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: curved and straight PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces (1). Copy the front pattern to a new piece of paper; do not copy the darts. Measure the width of the leg, divide by two and add 1” to calculate the wrap width. Measure the distance of the wrap width from the side seam, and draw a line parallel to the grainline. Measure 1” down from the waistline on the parallel line and mark. Draw a curve from the side seam to the mark on the parallel line. Cut the panel along the…

Raglan sleeves are my favorite pick for this technique but there are other ways to bring touches of velvet into your garments: contrasting velvet faux collar and/or cuffs; cowl neck; color or texture blocking; velvet neckband or armband; a cardigan, kimono or wrap dress band and tie; velvet or velvet-trimmed shirt pocket; drop sleeves; stretch velvet lining and more. When mixing textures, I’m fond of working tone-on-tone. Mix prints with velvet and you’ve got even more design options.…

It’s quite understandable that for many sewists, a set-in sleeve can initiate fear and frustration. It’s hard to envision how the opposing curves of the armhole opening and sleeve cap can possibly fit so smoothly together. Then there’s the question of knowing how much ease is really needed for the cap to stitch in pucker-free. Add to that getting the sleeve itself to fit just right. With all of this to consider, it’s no wonder sewists approach set-in sleeves with such trepidation. What constitutes a well-set sleeve? First and foremost, the sleeve cap should fit smoothly within the armhole opening with no unintended tucks, puckers or gathers along the seamline. The sleeve should hang from the shoulder point with no wrinkles or drag lines that may signal fitting issues. Finally,…

FAB R IC Type Lightweight woven fabric, such as chambray, rayon, or voile (anything drapey and swingy) Quantity 44" (112 cm) wide: XS–M, 2 1/4 yards (2.1 m); L–XXL, 2 1/4 yards (2.1 m) 54" (137 cm) wide: XS–M, 1 1/2 yards (1.4 m); L–XXL, 2 1/4 yards (2.1 m) OTHER MATERIALS Small piece of 1/8" (3 mm) elastic One1/2" (1.3 cm) button Larchmont Tee pattern: 3 pieces PATTERN 1. Lay your top front and back pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulders and side seams. Stitch in place along the shoulders and side seams. Finish these edges with a zigzag or overlock stitch. 2. Fold and press the sleeve hem at 1/4" (6 mm) and again at 1/4" (6 mm). Edgestitch in place along the fold (Figure 1). 3.…

SEW4HOME BAGS & TOTES by Liz Johnson & Anne Adams The experts behind Sew4Home.com show you how easy it is to sew your own trend-setting bags and totes. Step-by-step instructions will take you through each pattern and teach techniques, such as how to fussy-cut fabric, add an inset zipper and box a corner. The go-anywhere projects don’t require paper patterns and include everything from clutches and shoulder bags to a yoga mat sling and a vintage book bag. Learning to sew bags has never been easier. shopsewitall.com THE TUNIC BIBLE by Sarah Gunn & Julie Starr Discover the only tunic pattern you’ll ever need! The Tunic Bible teaches you everything you need to know about this classic garment. Fit the included pattern once, and then use the wide range of…