Indholdsfortegnelse for June - July 2017 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, It’s no secret that we have to work very far ahead in the publishing world — planning photo shoots with models wearing swimwear in the middle of winter and wool coats in the middle of summer. Usually I feel terrible for the model that has to face the unpredictable Colorado weather during our “summer” outdoor photo shoots, but not this time. It was a balmy 70° on the day we photographed the gauze tunic cover-up on page 28. Working this far ahead makes it difficult to remember what season it actually is when I walk out the office doors. But it does make it easier to bring you our special Christmas in July holiday section, starting on page 52. We conceptualized this section in January, after wishing we’d…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due June 30, 2017. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The June/July ’17 winners will receive a special sewing prize! Congratulations to the Apr/May ’17 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive a fabulous prize. Emily G., Bracebridge, Ont. Marilyn D., Oro Valley, Az Jackie C., Los Gatos, Ca Elaine H., Marshalltown, Ia Jenny L., Palm Coast, Fl…

The princess seamline is very flattering on all body types because it adds a vertical line and separates the space across the torso into smaller visual areas, which can create the illusion of a wider or smaller bust. Scaling the princess bust pattern to match your unique cup size, shape and placement will give you a flattering fit. The two-piece princess pattern easily divides the full bust measurement into smaller, more manageable areas of pattern adjustment. The more fitting details you have on a pattern, the better fit you can achieve, so don’t be afraid of multiple seams and darts. There are four key areas of measurement that fit the bust of any pattern to any body size. Quadrant one measures from the shoulder to the apex for the upper…

Curve Ruler (A) This ruler is most often used for shaping hips, hemlines, elbows and lapels. Fashion Curves & the Curve & the Square (B) These rulers combine the fluid curves of the French curve and the straight lines of acrylic rulers. SA Curve Pattern Drafter (C) These handy curved rulers come in 3/8” and 5/8” varieties, which makes it easy to draw in seam allowances while drafting.…

GAUZE BASICS Learning about the construction of a fabric type can help you understand its attributes, its uses and any special techniques that may be needed to work with that fabric. To make single-layer gauze fabric, a Leno weave is used, created by twisting two warp yarns in a figure eight design around the weft yarns (1). If you look closely, you’ll see that one of these warp yarns is slightly heavier than the other. These twisted yarns grip tightly to the weft, preventing the threads from slipping and resulting in a loosely-woven fabric that is lightweight, yet durable. Double gauze is exactly what the name implies—two layers of gauze fabric. The layers are basted together at regular intervals with tiny stitches that are barely visible from the right side.…

As soon as I saw this dress pattern, I knew I had to make it! I love when a garment has a nice draped feature, and I thought it would be nice to sew it in a thicker fabric so the draping and pockets would be more prominent. I found this amazing digital print scuba fabric that was stretchy, so I had to modify the pattern accordingly. I included some simple sleeve modifications so you can make this dress several different ways for different seasons — because you are going to want to sew and wear it more than once!…

Crêpe de chine is a lovely lightweight fabric, so it’s worth taking a bit of extra care handling it. Follow the tips below for lightweight fabric sewing success. • Cut the pattern pieces out on a non-slippery surface. Use weights rather than pins to hold the pattern pieces down on the fabric. • Crêpe de chine has a lot of give, even when both pieces are cut on the straight of grain, so take care not to stretch it as you sew. • Select a fine polyester thread and a fine machine needle like a 60/8. • Choose fine pins, too, and insert them more frequently, at right angles to the seam. • Use a scrap to practice stitching on the machine so you can check how well the fabric…

Full disclosure: I have yet to sew any of my own bras or panties. It’s on the list for this year but I haven’t gotten to it yet. I’ve been wanting to experiment with stretch lace before fully committing to more technical pieces. Despite reading descriptions and reviews, there’s a small number of online fabric purchases in my stash that are too sheer for the garments I originally intended them for. Workable with any basic tank pattern, this simple nightgown hack was the perfect opportunity on two fronts: to get comfortable with stretch lace and to use up sheer stash fabrics in useful ways.…

FIT FIRST Sheer and lightweight fabrics tend to be quite delicate and therefore should not be over-handled. To prevent unnecessary ripping out, which can damage the fabric, resolve all fitting issues before sewing with the fashion fabric. A comprehensive tissue fitting or a muslin prototype should do the trick. LAYOUT & CUTTING The slippery, shifting nature of lightweight fabrics is most pronounced when it comes to the pattern layout and cutting stages of construction. For the most accurate cuts, it’s best to cut patterns out one layer at a time, so be prepared to draft mirror image copies of pattern pieces cut on the fold. Setting the grainlines for proper layouts and cutting are particularly challenging, as getting unruly fabrics to lay flat and square is difficult. Before laying out,…

Using this type of foot is pretty straightforward but takes some practice. The key is getting the fabric to feed evenly into the foot at the start. Careful attention to stabilizing the first few inches of the hem and maintaining a steady hand at folding and guiding the fabric into the foot as you sew will ensure a beautiful hem. Trim the hem edge with a rotary cutter to remove any fraying from the hem edge. On the first few inches, make a small 1/8” fold toward the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the fold in place. Pin a small piece of tissue paper under the pinned fold, wrong side up. This will stabilize the fabric against the needle plate and prevent the fabric edge from sinking into the…

THE LOOK Hair features pops of color with harsh-cut edges; face appears dewy with light eyeshadow tones and a brighter lip. TEXTILES Fabrics feature new concepts with the use of different materials, from reversible two-toned sequins to perfectly formed vinyl. Fabrics are detailed with geometric cutouts and crystals. SILHOUETTE Defined shoulders, hips and busts create a structured look that doesn’t conform to normal body standards. ADORNMENTS Hair accessories become a focal point with the use of unusual materials.…

PAM DAMOUR (“Home Dec Help: Pillow Zipper Tips” — page 46) is known as the “Decorating Diva,” offering her professional home-décor training to the public. Pam lives on the shore of Lake Champlain in a log cabin, where she hosts sewing retreats. pamdamour.com NICKI LAFOILLE (“Off the Grid Tote” — page 32) is a mom of one human and two dogs, who travels with her small family around the country, finding creative inspiration for her sewing and writing. Her novel, Nautical Miles, is available in paperback and for the Kindle. meetthegofamily.blogspot.com JOI MAHON (“Joi of Fitting: Fit for a Princess” — page 14) is a fashion designer and owner of Dress Forms Design Studio, LLC. She’s a past winner of the American Sewing Expo Passion for Fashion contest and is…

If you have a bra size bigger than a B or C, it can be difficult to find clothes that fit, especially in woven fabrics or those involving a button closure. It’s particularly frustrating given the average woman has a DD bust, and things should really be made to fit. That’s where sewing your own clothes can come to the rescue! In theory, you can make any garment fit any body shape or set of measurements, and fitting the bust is no exception. However, it’s not quite as straightforward as sewing any pattern, because unfortunately, most sewing patterns, like most clothes in the stores, are made for a B or C cup bust. Don’t worry, though. There are solutions. 1 Pick a pattern with cup sizes. There are an increasing…

• Choose a marking method according to the fabric you’re working with. For example, a mark that must be removed by water isn’t suitable for dry-clean-only fabric. In many cases, a combination of tools will work best. • Always test your marking tool on a scrap of the actual project fabric. If the mark comes off easily with no damage to the project, it’s a good choice. • Mark fabric pieces after you’ve cut them out but before removing them from the cutting table. • Mark most details on the fabric wrong side. Exceptions include pocket and tab markings. • Mark both fabric layers unless the marking is for a single detail. For buttonholes, one side gets marked for buttonholes, the other for button placement. • If it’s difficult to…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 2/3 yard each of cotton fabric & coordinating cotton lining (See “Sources.”)• 3/4 yard of light- to mediumweight faux leather fabric• 13/4 yards of mediumweight interfacing• 11/4 yards of 3/4”-diameter piping filling cord• 18” separating zipper• 7” coil zipper• Thread: coordinating all-purpose & heavy or topstitching thread• Four 1” D-rings• Binder clips• Zipper foot PREPARE Download the Off the Grid pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until July 31, 2017. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print and cut out the template. From the main fabric, cut two 111/2”x22” body rectangles. From the lining fabric, cut one 22”x26” rectangle, two 7”x81/2” inner pocket rectangles, one 7”x11” outer pocket rectangle and four 2”x191/2” zipper-insert rectangles. From the faux leather, cut one 15”x22” base rectangle, one 3”x21”…

SHORT SLEEVE WITH FOLDED UP CUFF Lay additional pattern or tracing paper over the sleeve piece and trace around the stretch-adjusted size line, ending the sides at 4” long. This represents the sleeve hemline. To create the cuff fold lines, measure 11/2” three times from the sleeve hem (A). Fold along the first foldline, then fold again along the second line. Extend the sleeve side line onto the folded section, then run over it with a tracing wheel to score all the layers. Open up the folds and connect the lines, creating a slightly flared shape (B). GATHERED SLEEVE Lay additional pattern or tracing paper over the sleeve piece and trace around the stretch-adjusted size line. Draw a hemline as desired. To add fullness, draw in three vertical slash lines…

There is nothing like a set of nice, light, comfy pajamas to lounge around in on a hot summer night. The problem, though, is that sometimes the light, breezy fabric you want to use can be tricky to sew. We’ve got you covered. In this article, you’ll learn: • How to cut, sew & hem lightweight fabrics • The best way to work with bias-cut lightweight fabric • How to stitch a French seam along the crotch • How to create a drawstring opening on a very fine, non-interfaced waistband.…

The idea of taking a slider off a zipper can be intimidating, especially if you don’t know how easy it is to put it back on. Here’s the trick: 1. ANGLE: Insert one side of the zipper into the hole in the wide, rounded end of the slider. Insert at an angle so the zipper is pointing toward the middle of the slider. Only insert a little bit; too much and the zipper will be misaligned (A). 2. ANGLE: Insert the other side of the zipper in the same manner. 3. HOLD: Hold the zipper tape against a flat surface about 1” below the slider. 4. PUSH: From above, push the slider toward your fingers where they are holding the tape (B). The slider is now inserted onto the zipper!…

The holidays will be here before you know it. Plan ahead to ensure you have a handmade gift for everyone on your list. Create a wallet, hanger cover, hat, tote bag and potholder set, all in fabulous fabrics. Each project is simple to sew and easily customizable — choose different fabrics depending on the recipient or add embroidery for the ultimate in personalization. Browse the featured fabric collections at quiltingtreasures.com  and find the full instructions for each project and any needed pattern pieces at sewdaily.com/xmasinjuly17. Enter to win a fat quarter bundle from Quilting Treasures! See page 57. Secret Stash Hanger BY KATE VAN FLEET, SAMPLE BY KATE ZAYNARD Create a handmade gift for the women in your life, perfect for grandmothers, mothers and aunts. Also great for…

MIMI G, Mimi G Style I love all the deep rich colors in the fall palette. I’m also a huge fan of the geo prints and eccentric mix of prints this fall. We can expect to see a lot of velvet still walking the runways along with a lot of utility-based fabrics, such as twill, washed cotton and nylon. I’m really looking forward to mixing some of the minimalistic looks with feminine pieces. I wear bold colors all year round, so it’s nice to see them being used during the fall instead of the usual neutral browns and oranges. I have great pre-fall and fall patterns coming out, and I loved using multiple fabrics, textures and prints to make the patterns come alive. Sometimes the minimal styles have the most…

Silk charmeuse, crepe de chine, chiffon, organdy, lawn, voile and most synthetic linings are examples of fabrics that typically fall into the sheer to very lightweight category. As such, they share a long list of attributes that makes sewing with them a challenging prospect. Their soft, flowy nature means they slip and slide all, making pattern layouts, cutting, general handling and machine sewing difficult. Additionally, these types of fabrics tend to fray excessively, so raw edges must be treated and seams finished. When working with such flimsy fabrics, you should know what to expect and have a plan for dealing with these characteristics at every stage of the construction process. That means gathering the appropriate tools to prevent damaging the fabric and employing some simple sewing techniques that will make…

MAY CRIMSON & CLOVER TRAIN CASES THE PATTERN Kick your summer travels off right with a custom case set. These train cases come in three different sizes: small (4”x5”x6”), medium (5”x6”x8”) and large (6”x8”x10”). Each case features an exterior zipper, with several pockets and compartments on the inside, perfect for sewing supplies, cosmetics, jewelry and more. Make a set with piping for added pop! Perfect in cottons of all kinds, especially fun quilting cottons, this project makes a great stash buster or last-minute gift. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com! JUNE DARLING RANGES DRESS THE PATTERN The Darling Ranges Dress is a modern take on the shirtdress. The design combines practical features, such as roomy pockets and ties that allow the dress to be worn loose or fitted, with a flattering…

YOU WILL NEED Four squares of open weave heavyweight linen, 81/ 4" square in color of your choosing Two rectangles of backing fabric, 9 1/ 2" x 15 1/ 4" Knitting or tapestry wool (yarn) scraps Two self-covered buttons 14" square cushion pad At a glance 1. Machine zigzag all around each linen square to prevent the fabric fraying as you embroider. 2. Print out or trace off the circles template (see page 84) and transfer it to the center of each linen square using an iron-on transfer or air-erasable pen. 3. Embroider the design using tapestry wool (yarn) changing the colours used for each square. 4. Machine stitch the squares together using a 5/ 8" seam allowance and press the seams open. 5. To make the cushion back, first…

SEW CAROLINE WEEKEND STYLE by Caroline Hulse From Friday date night to a Sunday morning spent lounging around, your weekend wardrobe will never disappoint when you can simply sew the perfect outfit! Let blogger Caroline Hulse teach you everything you need to know, from must-have tools and materials to basic stitches and step-by-step techniques. You’ll be ready to sew 15 easy, go-to pieces in no time, perfect for all your weekend adventures. shopsewitall.com STITCHING WITH BEATRIX POTTER by Michele Hill Bring Beatrix Potter’s delightful stories to life with this unique book. Learn more about this remarkable woman’s life as you stitch up a collection of projects large and small inspired by her writing and characters. Discover useful appliqué and embroidery tips as you stitch by hand and machine to create…

What’s your spirit animal? What’s the last hobby you picked up? If you were a sewing superhero, what would your name be? What do you consider your greatest achievement? Who is your dream client and what would you want to create for him/her? Describe what your perfect day would be. When did you learn to sew? What is your favorite fabric to work with? Where do you find inspiration? What's your greatest extravagance? What’s your best way to decompress? What's your most treasured possession? What's your must-have sewing tool? What's your motto?…

FRENCH CURVES French curves are used in drafting patterns and in making pattern alterations. Invented in the late 1880s, they’re used by mathematicians, engineers and sewists alike. The French curve is used to connect points in a smooth curve, and it’s invaluable in garment pattern drafting for necks, armscyes and truing or blending seamlines. Choose the French curve to make the following pattern alterations. • When cutting out and lowering a dart to match your bust point, the side seam becomes uneven. Use the ruler edge that most closesly matches the original pattern line to draw a new cutting line (1). • Use the slash-and-spread method to add width to pattern pieces, using the long curved edge to draw the new cutting line at the outer edge (2). • When…

LUCKY STRIPES Stripes are in for summer — and we couldn’t be happier. There’s nothing more classic than a great stripe, and with a little bit of creativity, stripes offer many design possibilities. Use them directionally to flatter, lengthen or create slimming converging lines. Juxtapose horizontal and vertical stripes to create a color-blocked effect or set them on the diagonal to add interest to a basic design. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 13/4 yards of 58”-wide lightweight linen (+ 1/2 yard for the three-quarter sleeve option)• 3/4 yard of 20”-wide fusible sheer woven or tricot interfacing• Six 1/2” buttons• Pattern or tracing paper• All-purpose thread PREPARE Download the Stripe Hype Tunic pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until July 31, 2017. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print, assemble and…

SUPPLIES • Dress pattern (BurdaStyle #104B 10/2016)• 2 yards of knit or stretch fabric• 24”-long invisible zipper• All-purpose thread• 90/14 stretch ballpoint sewing machine needle• Twin sewing machine needle or a coverstitch machine• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: clear straight & curved• Tracing paper• Tracing wheel• Hand sewing needle• 3/8” clear plastic hook PREPARE Print and tape the pattern pieces together. You will need pieces 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 for this style. Set piece 4 aside. Measure your bust and waist circumference to best determine your size line; the hip area has wiggle room because of the pleats and pockets. ALTER Note: This pattern was designed for a woven non-stretch fabric, so if you simply sew your size in a stretch knit fabric, it won’t have a good…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 2 yards of 52”-wide crêpe de chine• All-purpose thread• Silk or other fine-shaft pins• 60/8 sewing machine needle CUT Download the Summer Slumber pattern free from sewnews.com/web_extras until July 31, 2017. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Cut out all the pattern pieces in the desired size. Lay the fabric out in a single layer. Cut one front on the bias, one back on the bias, one neckline binding, two armhole bindings, two shorts fronts, two shorts backs, one shorts waistband, one shorts waistband center and one drawstring. Mark the position of the darts on the top front. CONSTRUCT Use 5/8” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. TOP Stitch the darts on the top front and press downward. Stitch the shoulder seams using…

The back and front of the pajama top are cut on the bias. This gives a soft, flexible finished result. Follow these tips for bias-sewing success. • Avoid overstretching any part of the fabric once it is cut out, so handle the pieces gently. • Pin all the seams carefully, placing them no more than 3/4” apart and keep the fabric pieces resting on the table while you pin. • When stitching the top, take care not to pull on the fabric as it goes through the machine. • If your model allows, slowing the sewing machine speed encourages careful, precise stitching. The bindings for the neck and armhole are cut on the straight grain of the fabric. When applying them, pin the armholes and the neck with the binding…

Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • Tank top pattern, preferably with racer back (such as Fancy Tiger Craft’s Adventure Tank pattern)• Jersey fabric (amount according to pattern envelope + 1/2 yard)• 1/4 yard of stretch lace• Pattern tracing paper PREPARE Trace the bodice front and back pattern pieces onto pattern paper. Lower the neckline curve slightly if desired. On the front bodice neckline, measure and mark 3” down from the shoulder seam. On the armhole, measure and mark 5” down from the shoulder seam. Connect the marks. On the back bodice, the placement of the lace insert depends on the kind of straps your tank has. For the racer-back version, draw a horizontal line across the bottom of the racer back section (1). If your tank has plain straps, consider mimicking…

SUPPLIES • 2 yards of 60”-wide muslin• Straight pins• Rulers: hip curve & straight• Tracing wheel & paper• Pencil• Pattern paper• Dress form (“See Sources.”) DRAPE Cut the muslin into two equal panels on the widthwise grain. Fold one panel diagonally to find the bias, matching the selvage with the raw edge; press. Unfold the panel, and then draw the diagonal line using a pencil. Designate the line as the center-front line. Repeat to mark the remaining panel and designate the line as the center-back line. Place pins at the dress form shoulder/princess seam intersections and the desired neckline depth. Hold one panel with the center-front line vertical, and then fold the upper corner toward the wrong side (1). Align the center-front line to the dress form center-front line with…

If you’re a fan of epic storytelling, more characters than you can count and stunning landscapes, HBO’s Game of Thrones might be for you. An adaptation of George R. R. Martin’s A Song of Ice and Fire book series, the series has amassed a loyal following and begins its seventh season in July. The series’ rich landscapes and gorgeous costumes bring the stories to life on screen, including impeccable embroidered details designed and created by Michele Carragher. With 19 years of experience in film and television and with a background in textile conservation, Michele brings a wealth of knowledge and skill to her work on Game of Thrones. SN: How is the embroidery imagery developed for the show? When creating an embroidery design for any production, I'm always mindful that…

MEET THE DESIGNER: SARA LAWSON, SEW SWEETNESS Sara Lawson started her blog (sewsweetness.com) in September 2010. A year later, she started designing free bag patterns for Pellon. Sara has since had two fabric lines with Art Gallery Fabrics, written two books, Big-City Bags and Windy City Bags and taught courses on bag making. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE ONLINE SEWING COMMUNITY? “I love that everyone that I have met has been so helpful and giving with their time. It is truly inspirational to see all of the works completed by so many talented men and women online. I think it’s great that so many tutorials and videos are available to learn new techniques. ”…