Indholdsfortegnelse for August - September 2017 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Though we have a few moments left of summer, I’m looking to fall in anticipation of school activities and cooler temperatures, knowing I’ll need some wardrobe planning assistance. Denim is always a great fabric for fall, especially now with all the different weights, colors and prints that are available. And lightweight chambray makes a sweet transition-to-fall tunic — see page 24 for more details. Being able to make one pattern many different ways is not only the sign of a great pattern but also the sign of a resourceful sewist. Our very own Amanda Carestio shows just how easy simple pattern hacks are, starting with the Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline Studio. Amanda changes the fabric type and weight and plays with fun style elements to create six new…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Aug 31, 2017. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The Aug/Sept ’17 winners will receive a special sewing prize! Congratulations to the June/July ’17 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive a fabulous prize. Joan F., Prattville, AL Esther W., Baton Rouge, LA Teri N. Keizer, OR Justine L., Glastonbury, CT Barb P., Celina, OH…

Adjusting a pattern to accommodate the curves of the lower body involves more than simply making the hip area bigger or smaller. Fitting elements on garments, such as darts and seams for the lower body, need to correspond to the unique shape of the individual body. When this happens, it’s a formula for a perfect fit. LOWER BODY DYNAMICS Because of the need for bending and movement, it’s important to understand lower-body dynamics and how they affect the fit of any garment worn on the lower body. Treat the front separate from the back. When the front of the body is visually divided from the back, entirely different curves and placement of balance lines, both vertically and horizontally, are visible on the body. Because of this, simply adjusting a pattern…

If you don’t have a totally flat tummy, you’re not alone! Except for the luckiest of plus-size models, most curvy women have some curves in the stomach area. The great thing about sewing is that it’s possible to take that into account when making your own clothes. Whether you’re focused on comfort or balancing out your figure, here are five tips and techniques that can help. 1 Measure yourself sitting down. The first step in making a pattern is measuring yourself and comparing your measurements to the pattern-sizing chart. However, many of us actually expand quite significantly through the hips, stomach and waist when we sit down. It’s important to have the ability to comfortably sit down in your garment, so you should also always measure yourself sitting down. This…

WONDERFUL WEAVING The combination of faux leather and weaving creates tons of texture in this project, giving this bag its custom, high-end look. If you’re feeling adventurous, experiment with a variety of weaving patterns for a look that suits you. Bring in contrasting faux leather strips for even more design options. Then try the same technique on a pillow or pouf for your home. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to create one 15”x12”x3” tote. • 11/4 yards of 55”-wide faux leather• 1/2 yard of 36”-wide wool felt (front & back panel)• 1 yard of 36”-wide contrasting wool felt (lining)• 23/4 yards of 17”-wide lightweight paper-backed fusible web• All-purpose thread (to match the faux leather)• Rotary cutting system• Tracing paper & wheel or removable fabric marker• Small binder…

Quilting makes for an attractive and one-of-a-kind outerwear piece to take you through the fall season, and this unique and easy technique adds a fun twist on an old favorite. Carefully chosen layers and mindful washing are all that’s needed to make a pretty, puffy jacket or vest. In this article, you’ll learn: • How to choose the right fabrics for a shrink-quilted garment • The proper way to prepare the fabrics for shrink quilting success • How to plan the fabric layout to allow for planned shrinkage • The best methods for quilting and shrinking for an outerwear garment…

This pleating technique is perfect for adding texture, dimension and interest to all kinds of projects. Use this technique to add interest along the button placket of a collared tunic like Liesl + Co.’s Gallery Tunic, along the top of a shirtdress or to dress up a basic button-up blouse pattern. Even better, add it to a skirt pattern that features a center-front button placket for instant vintage appeal. In the home, this technique would be perfect on a pillow front or as a fun curtain edging. Available in shopsewitall.com.…

Take a sewing holiday and visit Chicago, a city full of great architecture, eclectic people and inspiring events to fuel your creativity. Chicago is home to some of the most recognizable landmarks in the U.S., including Wrigley Field, Willis Tower (formerly known as the Sears Tower), the Rookery Building, Chicago Cultural Center and Millennium Park. Some might also call it the fashion capital of the Midwest. The city has cultivated a budding sewing scene by fostering aspiring fashion designers through internationally acclaimed design schools, bridging the gap between Los Angeles and New York City. FAIR THEE WELL In 1933, Singer debuted its innovative Featherweight machine at the Chicago World’s Fair. Today, you can visit what’s left of the Singer Building at 120 S State Street, listed in the National Register…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Crop sweater pattern (such as BurdaStyle #106 08/2016)• 11/4 yards of plush knit fabric (such as neoprene)• 5”x6” or larger piece of contrasting woven fabric (pocket)• Fusible knit interfacing• All-purpose thread• Needles: 90/14 stretch ballpoint & hand sewing• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: clear straight & hip curve• Heat-removable fabric marker PREPARE Prepare and cut out the pattern pieces. If using the featured pattern, use pieces 1 through 3 for this style. Set aside pieces 4 through 10. Measure your bust circumference to best determine your size line, as the top fits loosely around the waist. Get 20% off this pattern! Purchase the Crop Sweater pattern from BurdaStyle.com and enter code QuiltedTop20 at checkout. ALTER Draft the pocket placement and shape on the front piece.…

Don’t stop here! Try these other ideas for added pattern hack options. • Add a zipper or a simple snap placket at the front to create a bomber-style jacket. • Stitch on a kangaroo pouch or statement pockets in a contrasting texture or fabric, such as vinyl. • Create a keyhole cutout at the front or back. • Expand the sleeve pattern piece at the base to create bell sleeves. • Lengthen the pattern for tunic style or an easy tee dress. • Add a hood, turtleneck or cowl neckline. • Create the sleeves in stretch lace, stretch sequins, stretch velvet, sweater knit or a quilted knit for texture and added interest. • Go woven! With enough added ease, this pattern can stitched in a woven fabric.…

Waistband width: For a standard 1”-wide finished waistband, start with a 2” width. Add 11/4” to allow for two 5/8” seam allowances, for a total width of 31/4”. As a general rule for waistband width, double the desired width and add 11/4” for seam allowance. Waistband length: Start with the waist measurement and/ or the waist circumference measurement of the garment. Add 21/2” to allow for a 1/2” seam allowance at each end, a 1” tab extension and 1/2” of ease.…

Now that we’ve covered some easy ways to make your summer pieces work for the transitional months, let’s talk about my favorite trends for fall and how I plan to work them into my sewing plan. Vintage is going to be all the rage this fall, and I couldn't be happier about it! Not only can I use some of those great vintage patterns that get re-released, but I can also go thrifting for some great pieces that I can modify. Just because I sew doesn't mean I have to make everything from scratch; sometimes it’s fun to do some re-fashioning. Simplicity #8254 and #8255 are on the top of my list to make. I also plan to make use of some great 70’s plaid that will be all over…

SILHOUETTE This style is all about balance, with a tendency towards modest coverage. If the top shows off the shoulders, the skirt is usually longer. If the skirt is shorter, the top remains more modest. Button-down blouses are a staple, along with structured dresses and circle skirts in different lengths. Fitted trouser pants or ankle-length skinny jeans are perfect for casual wear. TEXTILES Fabrics tend to remain in solid colors. However, classic prints such as stripes, polka dots and small-checkered patterns, are also suitable. THE LOOK Hair is either sleek and slicked back in a bun or ponytail, or shown fully down, fluffed and curled. Makeup appears simple and classic with a red lip, mascara and an eyeliner flick. ADORNMENTS Hats are a must, and the larger the better. Jewelry…

DANA BONTRAGER (“Unique Technique: Shrink Quilting” — page 42) has made a career of “thinking outside the fashion box,” constantly stretching design and sewing conventions to develop new skills and creativity. danamarie.com MIMI GOODWIN “MIMI G.” (“Mimi G’s Wardrobe Planner: Fall & Winter” — page 82) is a mother, businesswoman, and award winning trend expert and Editor-in-Chief of the popular fashion, lifestyle and DIY blog Mimi G Style. Her blog features DIY sewing, craft, home décor, fashion, beauty, travel, self-empowerment topics and more. mimigstyle.com ANA JANKOVIC (“Pleat & Greet” — page 28) is a computer programmer who expresses her creativity by sewing in her free time. She’s a self-taught sewist and designer residing in Belgrade, Serbia. stepalica.blogspot.com TINA LEWIS (“Pleats on Point”—page 46) designs and sews in the mountains above…

1. Get everything you need in one amazing tool! The Sew Taxi 12-in-1 Sewing Tool offers a wide range of sewing tools in a compact carrying case, perfect for the sewist on the go! The clear, shatter-resistant cover keeps all the tools organized and protected. The compact case includes: thread cutter, magnifying glass, seam ripper, piercing punch, punch needle, stuffing tool, knit picker, tweezers, safety pin, measuring tape and needle-threader. shopsewitall.com 2. The Guidelines Ruler & Connector comes with built-in fabric guides that make your cutting mistake-proof. The ruler also features built-in grips to prevent any slippage from occurring. Pair with other guideline rulers for additional widths by attaching the Open Hand Handle & Multi-Width Connector. guidelines4quilting.com 3. A Consumers Digest “Best Buy” in Computerized Sewing Machines, this Simplicity® Limited…

Pleats are pressed or topstitched folds in fabric that control fullness. They’re very versatile; you’ll find them in garments, such as skirts and pants, as well as in home décor projects, such as drapes, tablecloths, pillows, bed skirts and more. STITCHING A PLEAT To form a pleat, fold the fabric on the foldline and bring the fold to the placement line, following the arrow on the pattern. Hand-baste or pin each pleat along the folded edge to temporarily secure in place. Baste across the pleat upper edges. Press the pleat before attaching the piece to the rest of the garment. Follow the pattern instructions if edgestitching or topstitching is required for the desired look. PLEAT TYPES There are two basic types of pleats: fabric folds created by doubling the fabric…

TUNIC TIME For transitioning between seasons, there’s nothing better than a tunic. As the weather cools, pair this basic design with slim-fit cropped pants, wide-leg linen pants or faux leather leggings for a variety of looks. For added shaping, layer with a belt. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 2 yards of chambray fabric (See “Sources.”)• Thread: all-purpose & heavyweight• Tear-away stabilizer scraps PREPARE Download the Simply Styled Tunic pattern from sewnews.com/web_extrasuntil Sept. 30, 2017. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print, and then cut out the desired size. From the chambray, cut one dress front on the fold, one dress back on the fold, one sleeve pair, one sleeve-facing pair, one back-neck facing, one front-neck facing and two pocket pairs. Transfer all markings onto the fabric. CONSTRUCT…

ONE COOL CACTUS Give your cactus pillow added personality. Choose different fabrics to coordinate the style of your existing home décor. Shabby Chic: Opt for cuddle fabric in various shades and textures. Rustic: Burlap adds a textural element and interest that’s perfect for fall. Southwest: Bring home the cactus theme with cactus-motif prints. Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • 1 yard of print fabric• Constrasting fabric strip• Coordinating button• Polyester fiberfill• All-purpose thread• Turning tool or chopstick• Hand sewing needle CUT Download the Desert Décor pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until Sept. 30, 2017. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print, and then cut out. Press the fabric, and then fold in half lengthwise with right sides together. Position the pattern over the fabric; pin. If using a directional print,…

Discover different ways to use shrink-quilting to enhance any project. • Create your own stencil with simple shapes, such as leaves, hearts or circles. Trace the stencil onto the fashion fabric and quilt over the lines. • Experiment with free-motion stitching for a random stipple pattern or other self-created design. • Use a simple 1”- or 2”-wide grid pattern, either with the grain or on the bias. • Mimic the lines of a contrasting fabric that are used in the garment, such as a plaid or geometric design.…

JULY TRAVEL TRIO TWO THE PATTERN The Travel Trio Two pattern collection is the traveling sewist’s best friend. With three dynamic pieces in sizes XS-XL, including a hooded jacket, a wrap skirt and a funnel-neck top, you’ll never have to wonder what to pack again. The top features three-quarter length sleeves, the wrap skirt is semi-fitted with ties and the hoodie is loose-fitting with a single button closure, though each garment offers a variety of easy design options. The hoodie and the skirt can also be made reversible for even more travel wardrobe possibilities. Recommended fabrics include Lycra blend knits with 60% crosswise stretch…anything that won’t wrinkle in your bag! SEW-ALONG SCHEDULE Find the pattern bundle at shopsewitall.com, and then tune into the Sew News blog in July for Christine’s…

For this project, I played with texture and actually created a quilted textile, which was so much fun! In order to achieve the quilted texture, I used a plush neoprene fabric because I didn’t want to incorporate batting. The body of the top is a plain ivory, so I wanted to add a pop of color. I drafted a patch pocket and used a favorite fabric scrap to create it, with additional stitching for added interest. I also created a high-low hemline for more visual appeal.…

Coming up next issue in Masterclass: Button-Down Plackets CONSTRUCT Construct the fashion garment and lining according to the pattern, including the zipper insertion. Don’t, however, join the fashion fabric and lining at the waistline, as most pattern instructions advise; leave them separate instead. Complete all fitting adjustments to both before beginning the waistband. Mark the center front on both the fashion garment and the lining. PREPARE Cut out the waistband and interfacing, typically a fabric rectangle based on the desired finished width and waist measurements. Cut the waistband on the lengthwise grain where there’s the least amount of stretch. Waistbands are typically interfaced for added structure and stability. Interface the full waistband length; however, if the fashion fabric is too bulky, interface only half the waistband width. Trim away the…

One of my favorite things to make is outerwear. Many assume it doesn’t get cold enough to wear a coat in Los Angeles, but they’re mistaken. Nights can be quite chilly! Aside from the necessity of outerwear, I really love the work that goes into making a great coat or jacket. My coat and dress for Simplicity, pattern #8451, can be made from many different fabrics depending on the climate you live in. I’m also really into monochromatic looks and the idea of using all-over prints for both the dress and the coat, so I plan to do a lot of that during fall and winter months. Another really great jacket I plan to make is the Kelly Anorak from Closet Case patterns. I have the perfect textured woven that…

1. LABEL MAKER Iron plain muslin onto freezer paper cut to letter size. Design a label on your computer, and then print the design onto the muslin from an inkjet printer. Cut the labels to size, remove the freezer paper and attach them to any project you’ve made. Susan W., email 2. SPRAY IT When sewing an appliqué project, make your life easier by using temporary spray adhesive instead of pins. Sarah B., Facebook 3. HOLE IN ONE! Stack matching thread and bobbin on top of each other, put a golf tee through the center holes and wrap the ends of the tee with a rubber band for organized storage. Bonnie C., email 4. ON A ROLL When stitching on long borders of fabric for quilts, pre-roll the border onto…

Saki Jane Saki Jane has been sewing as long as she’s been speaking English, with hand quilting alongside her mother, then teaching herself to use her neglected machine from the 70’s. She’s been making slow fashion for 15 years now. She started her blog, SakiJane.com, to become an active part of the online sewing community and as an outlet to share both her good and her ugly endeavors with textiles. When did you learn to sew? What's your favorite fabric to work with? Where do you find inspiration? What talent would you most like to have? What's your must-have sewing tool? What’s your spirit animal? What’s the last hobby you picked up? What do you consider your greatest achievement? Describe what your perfect day would be. What's your greatest extravagance?…

From Friday night to Sunday brunch, “What should I wear?” is never a dilemma when you can simply sew your perfect weekend look. In Sew Caroline Weekend Style, SewCaroline.com blogger Caroline Hulse delivers all the learn-to-sew info a beginner needs, including must-have tools and materials, basic stitches, and step-by-step finishing techniques. From there, you’ll be set to sew Caroline’s easy, go-to pieces for all your weekend adventures. Stitch up coordinates to wear out to brunch, to an afternoon picnic, just lounging around the house, and more. And don’t forget the finishing touches. Versatile bag and accessory patterns stitch up in a snap to complete your ensembles so you can step out—in weekend style! Available Now Order Your Copy Today! ShopsFonsandPorter.com…

Proper pressing is the key to creating successful pleats. Lightly press or steam pleats to create soft folds, or press hard and sharp for more distinct folds. Because it’s necessary to press through several fabric layers, use a steam iron for best results, and always use a press cloth. To eliminate ridges on the garment right side, place strips of paper between the pleat folds and the outer garment when pressing. To create soft pleats, lay a dry press cloth over the pleat fold on the garment right side. Press lightly, or steam the pleats from about 2” above the fabric. Let cool and dry completely before moving the fabric. To create crisp pleats, lay a damp press cloth over the pleat folds and apply the full pressure of the…

PLEAT SMART For the best results with this project, choose a fabric that will really showcase the pleats, such as a solid color or low-volume print. Don't use a big, flashy print, as the fabric folds will get lost. Go for fabrics made entirely or mostly from natural fibers for the crispest pleats. Cotton and wool are great choices. Swatches provided by Robert Kaufman fabrics. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Basic skirt pattern (such as Mc-Call‘s 3830)• Skirt fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard)• Lining fabric & fusible interfacing (amount according to pattern envelope)• Zipper & notions (according to pattern envelope)• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: clear & curved• Removable fabric marker• Clear tape PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit…

FABRIC SELECTION Select lighter-weight blouse or dress fashion fabrics for best results. Adding flannel and lining to a lightweight fashion fabric creates enough body for an outerwear garment. The flannel shrinks between the layers, causing the fashion fabric and lining to pucker. This method is preferred to quilting over batting because the fabric weight is less and retains a soft hand that’s perfect for garments. To adjust the fabric weight while maintaining a flexible drape, add more inner flannel layers. Using two flannel layers will add more body and loft without stiffness. Some fashion fabrics are pre-shrunk and don’t need laundering before construction. Only pre-shrink fashion fabrics if they’re prone to shrinking. If the fashion fabric shrinks as much as the flannel, the finished puckered texture will be minimal. Select…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Sleeveless button-down blouse pattern (such as Burda Style 103 06/2012; see “Sources”) • 45”-wide 100% cotton or linen fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 3/4 yard; see “Sources.”) • Buttons (diameter according to the pattern envelope; amount according to desired number) • Fabric basting glue (See “Sources.”) • Straight ruler • Small, sharp scissors • All-purpose thread • Needles: 70/10 sharp & hand sewing • Sizing or spray starch (optional) PREPARE Cut out the blouse pattern, eliminating the pocket and collar, but not the collar band. Download the Pleats on Point clipping templates from sewnews.com/web_extras. Measure the blouse-front length and width. Add 6” to the width and 1” to the length; record. From the fabric, cut two rectangles according to the recorded measurements.…

Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • Bag pattern with a featured flap (such as the Fabric in Focus Bag)• Denim fabric & batting (flap)• Vinyl scrap (flap & strap)• Canvas & lining fabric (amount according to pattern envelope)• Notions (according to pattern envelope)• Quilt basting spray or pins• Removable fabric marker PREPARE From the canvas and lining fabric, cut the pattern pieces according to the pattern guidesheet for all but the exterior flap. Using a removable fabric marker, trace the exterior flap pattern piece onto the denim. If you plan to make more than one flap for practice, trace the pattern piece multiple times. Cut out the denim flap piece 2” to 3” beyond the tracing line. Draw in the vinyl flap placement line, measuring 3” from the flap lower edge…

The sign of a great pattern is that you want to make it a million times. With slight variations, or hacks, it’s easy to do that and still end up with a variety of dynamic handmade pieces for your wardrobe. THE LINDEN SWEATSHIRT With two versions, this pattern has myriad plusses, including the ability to make it in many fabric options. It’s perfect for stash busting — use coordinating salvaged fabric to create the sleeves, cuffs and bodice front and back. Or reuse fabric from other garments intended for donation. Read more about the Linden Sweatshirt on page 52 (and sew one along with us in August!). Then try six easy pattern hacks for a customized look. CURVED HEM For a less sporty look, eliminate the lower hem band and…

Generally attached after all the construction and fitting details are complete, waistbands should fit comfortably against the body and be snug enough to hold a shirt or top in place when tucked in. The most standard type of waistband is the straight waistband with a 1” finished width. The width, however, can be as narrow or wide as the garment style or personal preferences dictate. When attaching a waistband to a lined skirt or pant, standard sewing protocol requires the fashion garment and lining be joined together at the waistline before the process of attaching the waistband begins. Though this is a logical and reliable approach, commercially made garments often employ alternative methods that home sewists are wise to consider. One such method calls for keeping the fashion garment separate…

1. If you're like me and you made a ton of velvet pieces in the summer because it was super trendy, then you're already halfway set for fall. For fall, layer a velvet slip dress or cami underneath a button-up shirt and add a jacket. 2. Mix your delicate silky or lacey summer skirts with chunky sweaters. The balance of soft and comfy makes for effortless and chic looks. 3. Before you put all of your summer dresses and skirts away, see if you can pair them with opaque tights or wear them over jeans. Many of my summer dresses look really great with some boyfriend or skinny jeans and low-cut boots or heels. 4. Try a slip dress with a slim-fit turtleneck and a great belt. The key to…

SEW HOME  by Erin Schlosser Transform your dwelling into a space that reflects your personality, your imagination and your dreams. Sew Home, written by a professional interior designer, will teach you the basics of interior design as well as how to make 31 projects for the home. The projects include window treatments, linens, storage solutions and more in a range of skill levels. Filled with valuable information, this book is the must-have guide for any home-décor sewist. ctpub.com FREEHAND FASHION  by Chinelo Bally Chinelo Bally wowed the judges on The Great British Sewing Bee with her ability to create stylish, fitted garments using her freehand cutting method. Now you can learn this innovative technique, which requires no more than a sewing machine, measuring tape, chalk and a good pair of…