Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2017 - January 2018 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, I’m so lucky to be the content director for the sewing division of F+W Media. Many people ask me how I came to be the editor of three sewing magazines, how I got to be the host of Sew it All on PBS for 9 seasons and what I did to rise through the ranks from editorial assistant to editor-in-chief. Abby Glassenberg, of the While She Naps website, interviewed me for her podcast and asked those very questions. (Get to know Abby in her new column, appearing in the Feb/March Sew News.) The download is available on iTunes if you’d like to listen to the full story, but I’ll summarize it here. I wasn’t afraid to ask for what I wanted, I stayed true to my love of…

1. Add SEWING CHARMS to your key chain, zipper pulls, bracelet or on a gift tag for someone who loves to sew as much as you. The five unique charms in this collection are made of high-quality rubber and feature a thimble, thread spool, button, scissors and a sewing machine along with four silver beads. smartneedle.com 2. Sewing machine lovers, here’s the shirt for you! The LOVE MACHINE T-SHIRT is made of wonderfully soft 100% cotton and is so pretty in peach. This exclusive design was created especially for Keepsake Quilting by Life is Good®. keepsakequilting.com 3. ROXANNE GLUE-BASTE-IT is now available in a handy two-way applicator bottle. Use the fine tip for precise positioning, especially handy for appliqué. Use the wide tip for a larger portion control. This temporary…

FROM INSPIRATION TO REALITY When I began this project, I was looking to make a skirt that was perfect to wear to any party, whether around the holidays or not. I turned to the one and only Vogue to get my creative juices flowing. Since this skirt was intended for late 2017, I jumped online to refresh my memory of what showed for Fall 2017. As I was scrolling through the trend recaps, one look really stuck out to me: Prada’s feathery trimmed skirts. I was mesmerized by all the fluttering skirts coming down the runway. My favorite part was their use of colors for fall; these skirts were not black, not dark, but bright orange and blue wools with digitally printed and embroidered florals that really got me excited.…

FAB FLAP It’s easy to create a custom look with different fabric combinations. Choose from faux leather, new or repurposed denim, wool felt, vinyl or contrasting cotton for different flap options. Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make two small pouches and one large pouch. • Fat quarter each of 3 coordinating quilting cottons (A, B & C) • ¼ yard of waxed cotton canvas • ¾ yard of fusible fleece • Three 7/16"-diameter metal snaps • All-purpose thread CUT Download the Hold, Please Pouches pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for free until Jan. 31, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print and cut out the pattern pieces. From each fabric A & B, cut one large main panel and one small main panel. Designate…

TAKE A BREAK Sometimes the holiday season can get a little overwhelming — there’s so much to do! This cute advent calendar is there to remind you to take a break and appreciate the joy that the season brings. The back of each number features a fun to-do-today item guaranteed to get you in the spirit of the season. Some are as simple as “make hot cocoa” or “watch a holiday movie,” while others will remind you to give back, like “bring cookies to the fire station” or “donate some toys to charity.” We’ve also included blank labels so you can personalize your wreath with your family’s holiday traditions. Take a look at the options on the template, pick out your favorites and add your own to create the perfect…

Learn how to easily baste curves for professional-looking results. • Fold each convex and concave piece in half along the diagonal; lightly finger-press, and then unfold. • Using a fabric glue pen, apply the glue along the convex edge in short strokes to prevent the bias edge from stretching. Position the convex piece right side up on a flat work surface. Position the concave piece wrong side up over the convex piece, aligning the center foldlines; finger-press the foldline. Align the concave edges with the convex edges; finger-press. Gently align and finger-press the curved edge between the foldline and edges. • To pin-baste, pin at the foldlines, and then each block edge. Gently align the curved edge between the fold-line and block edge; pin. Repeat to pin the opposite curved…

Working with velvet doesn’t have to be intimidating. Check out the following tips and tricks for successful stitching. • Avoid lining a velvet garment in slippery material, such as satin or rayon, and instead choose lightweight woven cotton. • Cut velvet in a single layer and place pattern pieces on the wrong side to avoid shifting on the nap. • Install a roller foot, walking foot or Teflon foot onto the machine or reduce the presser foot pressure to reduce the fabric shifting during stitching. • Stitch in the direction of the velvet pile whenever possible.…

Look for patterns with these features or consider altering existing patterns with simple adjustments that will make getting dressed an easier process. • Replace buttons, zippers and other fasteners with hook-and-loop tape or magnetic closures. • Look for pants patterns with elastic waists. • Avoid fitted styles and look for patterns with comfortable ease. • Use soft fabrics such as knits. • In the later stages of dementia, tops that button in front make it easier for caregivers to dress people with Alzheimer’s. At that point, they can no longer dress themselves, so buttons are fine.…

McCall’s 6474 is a simple comfortable design, with easy-to-manage neck and armholes. The pajama bottoms have an elastic waist. It’s probably best to avoid the maxi-length nightgown for patients who are a fall risk, plus a shorter length makes it easier to manage in the bathroom. This Simplicity men’s sleepwear pattern, 1021, features long- and short-sleeved tops and pants with an elastic waist that has a convenient fly opening as well as a nightshirt and robe. RESOURCES Find more information on caring for people with Alzheimer’s and Dementia from the Alzheimer’s Association: alz.org.…

JEN CARLTON BAILLY (“Gnome for the Holidays” — page 50) can be found covered in thread and searching down the latest inspiration for a quilt. A self-proclaimed master at curves, she finds pleasure in creating quilts with secondary patterns that make you stop and wonder. bettycrockerass.com AIMEE DAVIS (“Circle of Joy” — page 42) sleeps under quilts that her grandmother made, her head rests on pillowcases that her aunt embroidered, and her memories are of watching her mom and grandmother sew. The majority of her skills are self-taught, and she likes to think there’s a little bit of genetic love seeping through. daisyeyes.com MEG HEALY (“Pattern Play: Prada Party” — page 24) has a passion for sewing that led her to study Fashion Design in NYC, where she also interned…

If you want to buy a dress form, consider many different possible features. The best place to start is to think about its intended use, because that will help you figure out which features are important. Here are some of the possible features to consider: • Torso-only or with head/arms/legs • Pinnable for draping • Proportions: There are very different proportions in plus-size dress forms, so make sure you analyze how close the form actually looks to your body. Many forms are just a size 10 stretched out in all directions, which isn’t what a plus-size body looks like at all. • Adjustable: Some forms have adjustable wheels to make them larger or smaller. • Weight: Some are very lightweight, while others are very heavy and not portable. • Price:…

The aim for this skirt project was to be a fun party skirt, and what’s more fun than faux fur? My inspiration was the Prada 2017 ready-to-wear runway show — learn more about that on page 24. I made two skirt variations, both using the same pattern. On my second version I also added an embroidered patch, which brought the two different blue hues together. For this skirt, I removed one of the panel lines to reduce bulk and save fabric, since I used one fabric for the entire skirt. If you want to use multiple fabrics, leave the panel seam intact.…

DUDE MOOD An apron set is perfect for gifting and super easy to customize, based on the intended recipient’s passions. A basic apron pattern, such as this one, is a great starting place. Just swap the florals for a cute novelty print, and you’ve got a quick, customized gift in no time. APRON Skill level: Easy SUPPLIES • 2 yards of print cotton fabric (apron)• Fat quarter of contrasting print cotton fabric (pocket)• All-purpose thread• Point turner PREPARE Download the Gingham Gourmet pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for free until Jan. 31, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print and cut out the pattern pieces. From the apron fabric, cut one apron, one 31/2"×22" strip for the neck strap, one 31/2"×12" rectangle for the facing and two 21/2"×36"…

FAB FABRICS This skirt was designed to create a luxe, swishy look when sewn up in a rich fabric with some weight and structure to it. With horsehair braid at the hem to ensure that the lovely A-line shape doesn’t collapse, this project sews up nicely in a wide range of special occasion fabrics. It looks great in a damask or jacquard, as in the featured sample, but it’s also lovely in a satin, sequined or embroidered fabric, or in a fabric with dimensional elements, such as ribbon or braid. The velvet trend is still going strong, so picture this skirt stitched in rich red velvet burnout with a satin waistband and ties. What more could be more perfect for a holiday party look? Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Damask…

THE BACKGROUND Full disclosure: I’m not really the blazer type, whatever that is. I tend to think of blazers as too structured and formal for my daily life. A stretch knit blazer is an entirely different thing, however. Ponte is one of my favorite fabrics — it’s super stable and easy to sew — but I wanted to dress it up a little with some high-end texture and metallic tones. This copper vegan leather was the perfect match. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Blazer pattern suitable for ponte or stable knit (such as Grainline Studio’s Morris Blazer)• Ponte fabric (amount according to pattern envelope)• ½ yard of metallic vegan leather• Coordinating all-purpose thread• Leather sewing machine needle• Removable fabric marker• Fabric clips• Temporary basting spray PREPARE From the ponte, cut…

WHEN LISA VAUGHN garnered national attention for her handmade cloud-print dress, the Houston meteorologist was shocked and flattered. Although she doesn’t credit sewing for her successful career (she holds two master's degrees, after all), she does sew almost everything she wears. She manages to sew every day despite her demanding schedule, whether making something for work or for play. Read on to learn how Lisa stays true to her humble beginnings one stitch at a time. SN: WHEN DID YOU LEARN TO SEW? WHO TAUGHT YOU? LV: I started sewing in junior high when I was about 13 years old. I remember wanting flamingo pants, so I made them — and I’m glad there are no photos. But I didn’t make quality clothes until I was an undergrad in college.…

The Limoncello Cardigan by SBCC Patterns is a great pick because it doesn’t have any buttons. Specializing in designs for petite women, the pattern offers a good amount of front coverage without being overwhelming. Made for lightweight knit fabrics, this stylish cardigan is flattering for many different figures and can be easily lengthened for taller people. It’s available in hard copy or as a PDF at sbccpatterns.com. The Lady Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo (kitschy-coo.co.uk) is a comfortable and flattering knit dress with three sleeve options – cap, three-quarter and full – and a large neck opening. This versatile pattern works with a range of body types and fabrics, including prints, stripes or solids.Dresses are fine for women in the early stages of Alzheimer’s. For fuller figures, check out the…

NOVEMBER BEATRIX TOP Grab the pattern at shopsewitall.com and join us for the following special topics on the Sew News blog: November 14: Fabric Selection November 21: Bust Dart Adjustment November 28: Creative Hacks MEET THE DESIGNER: RAE HOEKSTRA, MADE BY RAE Rae Hoekstra used to be a physics teacher but now spends her workdays sewing, making patterns and blogging at Made By Rae (made-by-rae.com). She has also designed several collections for Cloud9 Fabrics and is a Creativebug instructor. Rae lives in Ann Arbor, Michigan, with the handsome and tech-savvy Mr. Rae and their three kiddos, Elliot, Clementine and Hugo. WHO DO YOU DESIGN FOR? “I design for women and kids living everyday busy lives. My patterns usually evolve out of prototypes I make for myself and my kids.…

FINAL TOUCH The details matter when it comes to garment sewing. The techniques applied throughout construction impact the accuracy in the way the pieces come together and the quality of the fit. The techniques used during the final stages of construction as finishing touches matter even more, as they have a greater effect on the overall appearance of the finished garment. A focus on those final details can elevate any ordinary project to couture status. HOOKS & EYES Hooks and eyes are sold in two basic styles and come in a wide variety of sizes to suit every possible need in garment sewing. The wire version is the most common, while the die cut metal ones are designed to withstand more durable wear. These are the ones most typically found…

Get a modern update on this 1960’s London-subculture look. This style isn’t complete without effortless layering of staple pieces like a shift dress and collared shirts or mini skirts and opaque tights. Makeup and hair is also key for this look. THE LOOK Hair is cut blunt and isn’t afraid of thick fringe. Makeup is a highlight with painted on eyelashes, an exaggerated cat-eye and a bold lip. COLORS Black and white is the way to go for this look. Contemporize with the addition of metallics and pastels. STAPLE PIECES All pieces have a layering option to them. Blouses feature Peter Pan collars or a pussy bow, coats are double-breasted, and shift dresses and skirts have a shortened hem length. Shoes are flat Mary Janes, knee-high boots or block-heel slingbacks.…

STYLISH WRAPS by Yoshiko Tsukiori Japanese fashion designer Yoshiko Tsukiori created this collection of lightweight wraps to be easy to sew and look fantastic. Five included patterns are used to make 22 timeless wraps, including capes, ponchos, jackets, coats and stoles. The versatile patterns are easy to adapt to suit your personal style, and the soft loose lines are flattering on any figure. Whether your tastes run to feminine, classic or both, this book has something for you. tuttlepublishing.com A LITTLE SOMETHING by Roseann Meehan Kermes No sewing machine is required for these cute-as-can-be patterns. Stitch a colorful array of cozy wool creations to brighten any room in your home. Choose from a mix of cheerful little projects, including coasters, wall hangings, sewing accessories, bags and more. Create stunning effects…

GET YOUR LITTLE BLACK DRESS ON! Join us the final week of December on the Sew Daily Blog for a look at the little black dress and its importance in every woman’s closet. Learn its origins, peruse famous LBDs and find ways you can spice up your wardrobe for the holidays. COAT SEWING 101 With the weather taking a turn for the cooler, stitch up a coat or jacket to complete your handmade wardrobe. Check out Lucinda of Sew Wrong as she gives us her favorite tips for making this must-have essential on the Sew Daily blog. BUST A MOVE When asked, most women said fitting the bust and bodice area was one of their top fitting concerns. Fortunately, the full bust adjustment, or FBA, is one of the easier…

Selecting the correct pattern size is confusing and frustrating, especially if your body measures different sizes on the top and bottom or front and back. Ready-to-wear doesn’t help because there are no set sizing standards in the industry, and sewists often incorrectly apply off-the-rack sizing to their sewing patterns. Instead of focusing on matching a certain size, learn how to understand pattern fitting and how to work with any pattern to make it match your body for successful results. Pattern Sizing Custom patterns are created for an individual based on unique body measurements, but commercial patterns are created to a standard set of measurements. A group of measurements for any given size is determined by the clothing line or pattern company, and there are no required standards across the industry.…

STANDARD STITCHES Chances are good that when you sew, most of the time you’re using standard stitches, also known as utility stitches. Straight Stitch: This is the most basic machine stitch used for seams and topstitching. Some machines have variable needle positions that allow for stitching in tricky areas (1). Stretch Triple Straight Stitch: This stitch is sturdier than the basic straight stitch because the needle moves back and forth three times to create each stitch. Its intended use is for sewing seams that need to stretch without breaking, used often for knit fabric, but it’s also used for seams that need reinforcement, such as denim hems or seat cushions. Or use this stitch for top-stitching or decoration, such as edgestitching or seam finishing (2). Zigzag Stitch: This is a…

FROM SCRATCH We love a good upcycle but this hack is also great for expanding on a basic sweatshirt from your pattern library. Use the provided facing templates to draft the collar and you’re all set. Don’t forget to add a little sparkle, such as the suggested sequins, metallic jersey, stretch sequins and more, to take your look from basic to bam! Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Ready-made loose-fitting hooded pullover sweatshirt• ¾ yards of matching fleece & mediumweight fusible interfacing• Removable fabric marker• Thread: all-purpose, metallic serger & metallic sewing• 8mm-diameter sequins• Button foot (optional)• Serger (optional)• Fabric glue (optional) PREPARE Download the facing pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for free until Jan. 31, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print and cut out the pattern piece.…

MATERIALS Materials listed are enough to make one 16"×108"table runner. • Four coordinating fat quarters (shirts)• Green fat quarter (hat)• ¼ yard each of neutral cotton (faces) & red cotton (hats)• ½ yard each of white cotton (beards) & print cotton (binding)• 1½ yards coordinating cotton (background & backing)• 18"×114" rectangle of batting• All-purpose thread• Rotary cutting system• Compass or 2"-diameter jar• Safety pins• 6½" square ruler• Fabric glue pen (optional; see “Source.”) CUT Download the Gnome for the Holidays pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until Jan. 31, 2018. Using the templates, cut eight convex pieces from the face fabric and eight concave pieces from the beard fabric. Cut three 8"×12" rectangles from the red fabric, one 8"×12" rectangle from the green fabric and four 8"×12" rectangles from the background fabric. Cut…

Learn all about sewing velvet with BurdaStyle Presents: Crushing on Velvet. Find the ebook at shopsewitall.com. STRAIGHT OFF THE RUNWAY This skirt is inspired by a look that appeared on the runway at an Argyleculture By Russell Simmons X ModaBox fashion show. Despite its high-fashion origins, this skirt isn’t particularly difficult to sew. The biggest challenge is working with the velvet, but with a few expert tips, it’s easily achieved. If velvet is too intimidating, choose a velveteen, which is more forgiving. This structured runway look makes a great layering piece for winter when paired with tights and a chunky sweater. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 1 yard each of velvet or velveteen fabric & lining• Thread: matching all-purpose & silk• Zippers: two 5" & one 7" metal standard• Needles:…

This McCall’s shirt, 6044, has buttons, but it’s easy to replace them with hook-and-loop tape. Or stitch a faux button band by attaching buttons to the buttonhole band and use hook-and-loop tape on the opposite side. In late-stage dementia, when the person can no longer dress himself, shirts that button in the front are easier for a caregiver to manage than pullover tops. There are pocket and sleeve variations for this shirt so you could create many versions in similar color palettes. This Kwik Sew ensemble, K4201, includes elastic-waist pants for men and a pullover top with a yoke and zipper. The pants also have a drawstring, but you could leave that off as there’s already elastic at the waist. I would also recommend adding a fly front to the…

Knowing how to hand sew is an essential skill every garment sewer should master. This is especially true when applying many couture techniques. Hand sewing requires patience and precision, something not always welcomed by many of today’s time-pressed sewists. While there’s a seemingly endless variety of hand stitches used in garment sewing and embroidery, just a handful rise to the top of importance and should be part of every sewist’s skillset. Familiarize yourself with how to baste, backstitch, prickstitch, catchstitch, blindstitch, slipstitch, and sew a buttonhole stitch, and then use the guidelines below for hand sewing success. • Dressmaking needles are sized from 1 to 18. The higher the number, the finer and shorter the needle. Use short needles for general sewing and when sewing short stitches, hemming and finishing…

We asked on Facebook: What’s your favorite embellishment to add to sewing projects? Your favorite way to embellish, with 20% of the vote, is embroidery! Next, with 16%, is trim. Appliqué and lace came in at 11%. Other favorites were beads, buttons, piping, crystals, dye and sequins. Participate in our fun Question of the Day posts on our Facebook Fan Page. Issue 362. Sew News (ISSN 0273-8120) is published 6 times a year in Feb/March, April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov, Dec/Jan by F+W Media, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, CO 80401 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Sew News, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Bluechip International, PO Box 25542 London, ON N6C 6B2…