Indholdsfortegnelse for August/September 2019 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, As we look to the end of summer, there’s only one silver lining for me: sewing for fall! The change in seasons truly gets my creative juices flowing, and fall especially. Between the lovely layers and cozy textured fabrics (and yes, the cardigans!), I always find myself inspired to sew for this season. In Colorado, fall is jacket season, and this issue will certainly get you in the mood. First, read “Curve Appeal” on page 18 for fitting tips from expert Rae Cumbie, then stitch up a Fall Flip Jacket on page 48 for the perfect lightweight layer. Next, take the Tamarack Jacket challenge with us and two designers who customized the pattern with color blocking, piecing and more. This fall, the blousy blouse reigns supreme, and we’ve…

• Change the machine needle before every project or after 8 to 12 hours of continuous sewing. • Keep a supply of various needle types on hand for quick and easy needle changes. • The needle eye should be 40% to 50% larger than the thread diameter. For example, a size 80/12 needle accommodates 40-wt. thread. A size 90/14 or 100/16 needle accommodates 30-wt. thread. A higher thread weight requires a smaller needle size, while a lower thread weight requires a larger needle size. • A bent needle can cause irregular stitching. Always replace the needle if one becomes bent. • Always test-stitch on a fabric scrap to determine the best needle size and type, thread and fabric combination for a project.…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Reversible hooded jacket pattern (See “Source.”)• Light- to mediumweight woven print & solid fabric (amount according to chart below)• 1 yard of 30"-wide lightweight fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Serger (optional) PREPARE Download the Fall Flip Jacket pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for free until Sept. 30, 2019. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing after the expiration date. From each the solid and print fabric, cut two jacket fronts, one jacket back, two hoods, two sleeve fronts, two sleeve backs, two pockets and one belt loop. Transfer all pattern markings. From the solid fabric, cut one belt. From the fusible interfacing, cut two front facings, two hood facings, four pocket facings rectangles and one belt facing. Fuse the interfacing to the corre- sponding solid jacket fronts, hoods and belt…

Sometimes a pattern is captivating because of its potential. The Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studio is one such pattern. A basic shell with quilted layers and binding, the jacket is a canvas ripe for playful hacks, from piecing to customization to fabric experimentation. We had two different makers design their dream Tamarack — here is the result, a bit about their process and the tip of the iceberg in terms of creative options for this jacket. PAULINE BRUCE @sewuthinkucan, sewuthinkucan.blogspot.com I never made a quilt in my life until I made my first quilted jacket. I’m a convert, and now I want to make many more Tamarack jackets and possibly try my hand at other types of quilts. I’ve sewn two Grainline Studio patterns before, and the Tamarack didn’t disappoint.…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of canvas or linen fabric (exterior), cotton fabric (lining) & coordinating cotton fabric (exterior pocket)• 1/4 yard each of coordinating cotton fabric (strap) & leather or vinyl (bag base)• 60" of 11/2"-wide bias strips for binding• 11/2 yards of 1"-wide strapping• Two 1" buckles• 1/2 yard of fleece• All-purpose thread• Temporary spray adhesive• Binder clips• Teflon presser foot (optional) CUT Download the It’s a Cinch Tote template from sewnews.com/webextras until Sept. 30, 2019. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing after the expiration date. Print, tile and cut out the template. From the exterior fabric, lining fabric, pocket fabric and fleece, cut two 15" squares each. From the strap fabric, cut two strips 2 3/4" × the width of the fabric. From the leather…

HAND DYED By Anna Joyce Hand Dyed: A Modern Guide to Dyeing in Brilliant Color for You and Your Home is a modern introduction to indigo and fiber-reactive dye that every crafter should have. Exploring traditional techniques like shibori and using organic compounds, this comprehensive how-to guide offers everything you need to know to create stylish, richly colored and patterned pieces and beautiful projects. abramsbooks.com MODERN PATCHWORK HOME Edited by Vivika DeNegre Give your home a modern makeover with bold, creative projects for today’s quilters. Modern Patchwork Home offers a curated collection of 23 must-make quilting projects, from cozy quilts and statement pillows to a cool carryall and whimsical accessories. Discover the possibilities that graphic fabrics, textured prints and contemporary designs hold to showcase your one-of-a-kind style. thequiltingcompany.com THE SKIRT…

SN: What’s your favorite sewing trend? RP: My favorite sewing trend is cropped tops. The style opens up the lower portion of the body and makes us look taller. It also requires less fabric which is perfect for scrap busting. SN: What sewing trend do you hope goes away soon and forever? RP: It’s hard to pinpoint. I think fast fashion leaks into the sewing community, but we usually have a good sense of what to stay away from since we’re going to invest a lot of time into making something. SN: What’s your best way to decompress? RP: Without a doubt my best way to decompress is by sewing a gratifying make, something that I know is tried and tested and will turn out beautifully. The simple acts of…

Q I am a new stitcher hoping to make my first jacket this fall. As I look at patterns, I am confused about the types of sleeves and armholes. What kinds are easiest to fit and construct? A Jacket styles feature a number of different shapes and armholes. Here are some tips to help you choose the best jacket style for your first project. The loosest, easiest style jacket to construct features a dolman sleeve. This sleeve is an extension of the body so the construction is very easy. Dolman sleeve coats and jackets need to fit very loosely for ease of movement in the extended sleeves (1). Dropped shoulder sleeves are also easily constructed. The sleeve attaches to the jacket front and back sections which extend off the shoulder.…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Blouse pattern with a neck bow (such as BurdaStyle #110 03/2016)• Panties pattern (such as BurdaStyle #128 01/2012)• 23/4 yards of lightweight silky blouse-weight fabric• 1/2 yard of spandex fabric• 1 yard of 3/8"-wide elastic• Lightweight fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Pen or pencil• Straight ruler• Hand-sewing needle• Sewing machine needles: 90/14 universal, 90/14 stretch (optional) & twin• Medium-sized snap PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together for both patterns. If using the featured BurdaStyle patterns, you will need the front, back, yoke and sleeve pieces for the blouse. For the panties, you will need the front, side front and back pieces. Measure the bust circumference to determine the best size for the blouse, and…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 10 square feet of 7 ounce leather with a 58" minimum length (exterior)• 1 square foot of 9 ounce leather (interfacing)• 1/2 yard of satin (lining)• Two 1" squares of fusible interfacing• 21/4"-diameter closed metal ring• Four metal bag feet• 3/4" magnetic closure• Binder clips• Leather glue• 2"-wide stiff-bristle paintbrush• Pattern weights• Masking tape• Lighter• 600 grit sandpaper• Markers: permanent & removable fabric• Needles: size 110/18 leather, hand sewing & two size 2 saddle harness (See “Sources.”)• Edge-paint roller pen & matching leather edge paint (See “Sources.”)• Stitching pony clamp (See “Sources.”)• Leather punches: 6mm-diameter round single & multi-hole set (See “Sources.”)• Thread: .03" waxed polyester cord & heavyweight bonded nylon thread• Rotary cutting system PREPARE Download the Barcelona Bucket Bag pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for…

• The most essential factors for creating successful reversible clothing is pattern style, fabrication, construction and closures. • To create a clean finish on the garment right and wrong side, use a mock flat-felled seam to encase raw seam allowances. • Use a turned-edge method to create a faux bound edging on garment fronts and sleeve lower edges. • Conventional closures, such as zippers and buttons, are intended to only work on one garment side. Therefore, choose patterns that have abutting garment center fronts instead of overlapping and insert a reversible zipper between the layers. • For overlapping center fronts, use snaps because they are usually hidden between layers and work as an interlocking set. Or use hook and eyes or hook and loop tape as other alternatives. • Adding…

We love the patchwork and quilting trend for garments this season, and the Tamarack Jacket is a perfect project for playing with both. It’s easy to keep your experimentations subtle, with subdued quilting over a single color, or head to the extreme with piecing and quilting on display. Either way, the result is high-end and one of a kind.…

Skill Level: Intermediate LACE INSERT Add a lace insert below the open sleeve for a subtle and chic peekaboo look. SUPPLIES • Basic long-sleeve button-down shirt pattern (such as Grainline Studio Archer)• Woven fabric with drape, interfacing & notions (according to pattern envelope)• Lace fabric (amount according to sleeve measurements)• All-purpose thread• Straight ruler• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker• Hand sewing needle (optional)• Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace the sleeve pattern onto new pattern paper, transferring all markings. Connect the shoulder seamline marking at the sleeve cap to the sleeve…

Fulton Sweater Blazer by Alina Design Co. If you’re looking for something more structured and dressy than the average cardigan, the Fulton might be for you! Designed for stable knits, this design blends the defined lines of a blazer with the comfort of a cardigan that makes it a must-have in your fall wardrobe. Juniper Cardigan by Jennifer Lauren Handmade For layering over dresses, there’s nothing like a short, fitted and feminine cardigan with vintage flavor. And the Juniper has that in spades! The saddle shoulders and V neckline are so pretty and unique. Wrapped Cardigan by Seamly We’re not sure quite how, but this cardigan blends two things we love effortlessly: wearable drama and a hint of sportiness. See? Magical! And there’s a vest version! This light jersey layer…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due July 31, 2019. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Congratulations to the June/July 2019 Hide & Seek winners! Cheryl H., Caldwell, ID Gail D., Banning, CA Georgina B., Jasper, IN Anita W., Lamb, MI Marjorie H., Napa, CA…

NEEDLE ANATOMY Shank: The needle top with a round front and flat back, which is inserted into the sewing machine. Shaft: The needle body below the shank. The shaft thickness determines the needle size. Front groove: The slot above the needle eye in which the thread rests. Eye: The hole at the pointed needle end where the thread is carried to form stitches. The eye size and shape determines the needle type. Scarf: A groove on the needle back that intersects with the bobbin case to create stitches. Point: The needle tip that pierces the fabric during stitching. Different needle types have different point shapes. NEEDLE TYPES & SIZES The needle and thread work together to form a perfect stitch. Many needle types and sizes are available for a variety…

SN: What are your favorite kinds of projects to make? MT: For men, I still really love making ties. It’s a simple accessory but I’m very picky about my fabric selection and careful about the pattern placement. Each one truly feels like a work of art when it is complete, and I’m confident my pieces are unlike any other brand. For women, making dresses is always exciting because the possibilities are endless. You can bend or break whatever fashion “rules” you think exist to create a one-of-a-kind garment. I love that it’s a constant learning process. There are always new techniques to learn and apply. SN: Where do you find inspiration within the sewing community? MT: I’m constantly on the lookout for educational opportunities, so I use videos and books…

I’m a huge fan of bodysuits, and I love the concept of one attached to a blouse so it doesn’t become untucked and add bulk to the look, especially when wearing sleek pants. I’ve been seeing this style a lot more in stores, and it’s quite easy to create yourself — just grab your favorite blouse and panty pattern and put them together! I opted for a pussy-bow blouse, as a ’70s resurgence has been all over the runways. What better way to incorporate the trend?…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Woven top or dress pattern with raglan or kimono-style sleeves• Fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard; see “Sources.”)• Notions (according to the pattern envelope)• All-purpose thread• Buttons (quantity depending on shoulder length, pattern, desired spacing and button size)• Rotary cutting system• Loop turner or tiny safety pin• Removable fabric marker• Expandable sewing gauge (optional)• Bias tape maker (optional) RAGLAN SLEEVE HACK Place buttons along a front raglan sleeve seamline to add a flair to a simple top. Choose to add the buttons to one shoulder or both. PREPARE Before beginning, read through all instructions of the chosen pattern and this hack. Use this information to determine the best way to execute this hack for the chosen pattern, as well as the…

Skill Level: Beginner PATCHWORK PILLOW Use multiple felted wool colors to create an intricate pieced pillow. SUPPLIES • 10"×24" rectangle of gray felted wool• 3/4 yard of yellow felted wool• 6"×24" rectangle of blue felted wool• 5"×10" rectangle of pink felted wool• 1/2 yard of coordinating felted wool• 22" square of muslin• All-purpose thread• Spray starch• Clear ruler• Rotary cutting system• 18" square pillow form• Serger (optional) CUT From the gray wool, cut four 21/2"×24" strips. From the yellow wool, cut four 2"×24" strips and two 14"×19" rectangles for the pillow back. From the blue wool, cut four 1 1/2"×24" strips. From pink wool, cut two 5" squares. Cut each square in half diagonally to create four triangles. Press all pieces with spray starch following the manufacturer’s instructions. CONSTRUCT Use…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Basic flared jean pattern (such as Simplicity 8655)• Dark-wash denim (amount according to pattern envelope)• 1/2 yard each of medium- & light-wash denim• Notions (according to pattern envelope)• Thread: all-purpose & topstitching• Pattern or tracing paper• Hip curve ruler• Removable fabric marker• Clear tape• Large gridded mat• Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Tape the jean front and back pattern pieces to the mat, aligning the lengthen/shorten lines along the same gridline. Position the hip curve ruler over the front pattern, aligning the outer edge of the straighter end…

STEPPING OUT Vents and slit, or split, openings are a wonderful way to add style and ease of movement to your garments. Depending on the silhouette, they are essential and add to the longevity of your clothing. Garments such as below-the-knee straight skirts, dresses and even coats need a vent or slit in a seam near the hem to account for ease of walking and climbing stairs. Vent openings need to extend to above the knee level to be effective and allow for comfort. As you will see, all of these techniques are easy; they just take a little planning at the cutting stage so that you can make the type of pleat you need and want in your garment. Try them all! There are quite a few types of…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at videos.sewdaily.com during the month of August to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew a pair of leggings — or several — with us. By registering, you're automatically entered to win a BRILLIANCETM 75Q sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. THE PATTERN If there’s a fall layering must-have (besides the cardigan), it is the other humble wardrobe workhorse: leggings. With no side seam, the Loveland Leggings are straightforward and simple to construct, perfect for a beginner and easily customizable for a leggings lover. The pattern includes instructions for multiple alternative waistband, cuff and hem treatments. Recommended fabrics include knits with four-way stretch, at least 5% spandex and excellent recovery. Best of all, you don’t need a serger! This digital download includes pattern…

Nothing says fall like plaid, but this season try elevating the style (and warmth) of your look with a little touch of faux fur! A little goes a long way with this trend. Trim the collar and cuffs of your coat with some extra fuzzy fur, matching the color of the fur to a stripe in your plaid. Speaking of matching, the hottest trend is to dress head to toe in one color or print — and in this case, plaid is the way to go! COAT PATTERNS Opt for a straight coat silhouette with minimal seams and some sort of collar. If the pattern doesn’t have cuffs, you can easily draft and cut them in faux fur. DRESS PATTERNS Pick a dress pattern with a higher neckline, minimal seams,…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal: Jacket Fitting” – page 18) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com STEPHANIE BRACELIN (“Autumn Blooms Button Dress” — page 42, “Weave On Pillows” — page 54) has been sewing since she was six years old. She has a passion for high quality fabrics, vintage design, garment construction and small design details. She currently resides in her hometown of Des Moines, Iowa. JENNIFER DAVEY (“It’s a Cinch Tote” — page 65) has been sewing professionally for 18 years and currently works as…