Indholdsfortegnelse for February/March 2020 i Sew News

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Woven top pattern with long flounced sleeves • 11/2 yards of silky satin fabric with or without stretch (See "Sources") • All-purpose thread • 90/14 universal sewing machine needle • Pen or pencil • Rulers: curved and straight • Hand sewing needle • Locking swimsuit clasp • Tracing wheel • Rotary cutting system PREPARE Print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. If using the featured BurdaStyle pattern, set aside pieces 5 and 6, as they are for a different pattern style. Measure your bust and waist circumferences to best determine the correct size. If the measurements cross over different sizes, create a custom size line, blending from the bust to waistline. ALTER If the pattern doesn’t have a jewel neckline for attaching a collar,…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Basic wide-leg jeans pattern (such as Simplicity 8701) • 8-ounce denim (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1 yard) • Interfacing & notions (according to pattern envelope) • All-purpose thread • Size 16/100 jeans needle • Rotary cutting system PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. CUT Note: Cutting instructions are for size 6 jeans. For other sizes, refer to page 46 for instructions. Cut twenty-four 10” squares from the denim. Mark the lengthwise grainline on each square wrong side. Pin two squares together with wrong sides together, making sure to match the…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting hoodie pattern (such as BurdaStyle #120 12/2018) • Sweatshirt knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard) • Notions (according to the pattern envelope) • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Rotary cutting system • Pattern or tracing paper • 5/8”-wide painter’s tape • Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. CUT From the sweatshirt knit fabric, cut out the hoodie pieces according to the pattern instructions. Measure the hoodie hem-band upper-edge circumference minus the seam allowances; record as the fringe length. Determine the desired…

AMANDA CARESTIO, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Pattern: Reeta Midi Shirtdress by Named Clothing Fabric: Lightweight Rayon Crepe in Sage Pattern Notes: This pattern was not a challenging sew in and of itself, though my fabric selection added a degree of difficulty… and additional starch and time! I’ve been eyeing this design for years, and this pattern review was the perfect chance to give it a go. Between the double pockets, the lay-down collar and the split hem, the design combines a retro and safari feel, which is something I played up with the sage green color selection. I also love the silhouette of this dress: it’s roomy and drapey but with some shape and definition. As far as pattern changes go, I took a good bit of length out of the skirt, though…

• Trace the portion of the hem that includes the curve onto a manila file folder. Measure 5/8” from the pattern’s cut edge to mark the hem allowance using a double tracing wheel or your favorite measuring tool. Cut away the hem allowance on the template and discard. • Place the template onto the hem, aligning it 5/8” from the raw edge, along the seam line. Finger press first, then use the tip of the iron to press the hem onto the template. This helps to capture the shape of the curve before hemming with a single- or double-fold hem.…

Oh, jeans, the American classic! For some sewists, it might not even occur to sew jeans. For others, jeans are a starting place given their price point, style options and fickle fit. In Episode 22 of the Sew & Tell podcast, we dive in to all things jeans: picking fabric, choosing the right pattern, style preferences, additional resources and more. And we share our thoughts here. MEG Just the thought of sewing jeans can be intimidating, and trust me, that’s what I thought the first time I sewed a pair. But once I realized jeans are just another pair of pants only sewn in denim, it became more approachable. When I made my first jeans, I actually made them without pockets and created a simple high-waisted pair with a back…

SN: Describe your perfect day. CS: My perfect day would be on a beach with my family. But with sewing, I would have to be home. My husband would make all the meals and entertain the kids while I’m up in my sewing room, listening to their giggles as I sew away. He would take the kids out for a few hours so I could sneak in some Netflix or listen to a podcast. Then we would all have a great dinner together and end the night with a movie and lots of snuggles on the couch. I’m easy to please. SN: What’s the best way to decompress? CS: No lie, it starts with a beer... but with sewing, it’s usually to work on a project which requires very little…

“It’s surprising how many DIY skills transfer to sewing skills. It’s just construction and engineering, after all.” Sew News: Tell us about your sewing journey. Andrew Myles: My sewing story really started in 2014 when a good friend of mine (who worked for a famous fashion designer) coached me through making a waistcoat (vest). In the months running up to this I had been obsessively watching YouTube videos on how to sew, and I even made a few zippered pouches and a pair of boxer shorts in preparation. Looking back now, the waistcoat was quite a challenge for a first project, with welt pockets and a notched collar, not to mention buttons and buttonholes. The outcome is that I suppose I have a bit of a fearless approach to sewing…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Open jacket pattern (such as the Wiksten Haori Jacket pattern) • Raw silk, interfacing & notions (according to the pattern envelope) • 2/3 ounce of black fiber-reactive dye (See “Sources.”) • One cup each of soda ash (also known as sodium carbonate; see “Sources”) & non-iodized salt • 5-gallon bucket • Rubber gloves • Rubber bands DYE To create the undulating twist pattern, hold one end of the fabric yardage and begin to twist tightly as if you were wringing out a towel. Continue to twist the fabric until the entire length is twisted in a knot. Secure the yardage in the twist with a rubber band (1). The tighter the twist, the more white background fabric appears after dyeing. The looser the twist, the…

• For a more retro look, add a 2” flare to the jeans pattern. • To easily stitch through all the denim layers during construction, choose a lightweight 8-ounce denim and install a jeans needle into the machine. • Crosswise grain frays differently than lengthwise grain, so for a uniform look, make sure to mark and match the lengthwise grain on the patchwork pieces. • For larger pattern sizes, measure the front-pant pattern length and width to determine the pieced-denim panel finished size needed. Keeping in mind the center-frayed seamline must align with the pant-pattern lengthwise center. • If needed, increase or decrease the denim-square measurements to achieve the best result. • To create a frayed jean hem, remove the hem seam allowance on the pattern before cutting out.…

Skill Level: Beginner SQUARE COLOR-BLOCKED PILLOW Combine color-blocked pink and gray velvet with textural topstitching for a fun geometric pillow. SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 16" square pillow. • 1/2 yard each of pink, gray & coordinating or contrasting velvet & mediumweight fusible interfacing (See “Sources.”) • All-purpose thread • Tailor’s chalk or chalk pen (See “Sources.”) • Straight ruler • Rotary cutting system • 16” square pillow form • Rotary cutting system • Wonder or binding clips (See “Sources.”) • Serger (optional) CUT From each of the pink and gray velvet, cut one 12”x17” rectangle with the nap running widthwise along each rectangle. From the coordinating or contrast- ing velvet, cut two 17”x21” rectangles. Designate as the back panels. Cut one 17”x20” rectangle from the fusible…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Readymade wool coat • Coordinating Sherpa fabric (amount according to coat measurements) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Hand sewing needle DRAFT Place a piece of pattern or tracing paper on a flat work surface. Unbutton the coat and place the collar flat over the paper; pin to the paper. Trace the collar perimeter. Remove the coat. Add a 1/2” seam allowance to the collar perimeter (1). Cut out the collar pattern piece. Place a piece of pattern or tracing paper on a flat work surface. Place the coat hem flat over the paper; pin to the paper. Trace the coat lower edge and approximately 16” along each center-front edge. Remove the coat. Add a 1/2” seam allowance to the lower…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at videos.sewdaily.com during the month of February and March to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew this winter wardrobe must-have — with us! By registering, you’re automatically entered to win an AMBER AIR S400 from Husqvarna Viking. It’s easy to sew sweater knits….with the right machine! Layer on the style with this cool cardigan sewn with the AMBER AIR S400 machine. With the one-touch air threading system and adjustable built-in needle threader, threading this machine is a breeze! Brought to you by THE PATTERN Meet the Keystone Hooded Cardigan, a layering piece that’s as chic as it is cozy. Available in sizes 0-30, the cardigan is roomy through the body with slightly fitted arms for a balanced silhouette. The design features…

LINDSAY CONNER (“Pop of Plush” — page 54) is a writer, editor and modern quilter. Her books include On the Go Bags, Modern Bee, The T-Shirt Quilt Book and FreeSpirit Modern Blocks (Stash Books). An ambassador for Baby Lock sewing machines, a freelance travel editor and a contributor to various magazines, she loves to travel with her family, teach her son to sew and snuggle with her lazy cats in Indianapolis, IN. lindsaysews.com, craftbuds.com RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal: Buttoned Up” – page 22) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and…

Plackets are used to finish slash openings cut into the fabric. Use a placket to finish the back neckline opening for a blouse or dress without a neck facing, an extended yoke opening into the skirt of a little girl's dress, or the opening of a dress or skirt lining. CONTINUOUS-LAP PLACKET The method described is for a sleeve placket, but the same method can be used on other garment openings as well. Transfer the pattern markings for the placket onto the sleeve fabric using tailor's chalk or an air-soluble marking pen. The pattern markings come to a point, similar to a dart. To mark the placket location, make a tiny snip at the lower edge of each dashed line and poke a pin through the pattern and fabric at…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Basic wide straight-leg pants pattern (such as True Bias Lander Pant) • Bottomweight fabric, interfacing & notions (according to pattern envelope) • 1/2 yard of contrasting bottomweight fabric • All-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker or tailor’s chalk • Straight ruler PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. CUT Cut out the pants front and back from the main bottomweight fabric. Position the contrasting bottomweight fabric right side up on a flat work surface. Position the pant fronts right side up over the contrasting fabric. Trace each pant perimeter along the lower leg…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Readymade leather, faux leather or suede skirt or jacket • 1/4 yard of coordinating lining fabric • 14”-long regular plastic zipper • Matching polyester all-purpose thread • Size 100/16 leather needle • Glue stick • Rotary cutting system • 1”-wide painter’s tape • Removable fabric marker • Binder clips • Presser feet: PTFE (optional) & zipper CUT From the leather, cut two 9”x15” rectangles for the front and back panels and four 7”x14 1/4” rectangles for the fringe. If needed, include seamlines on the front and back panels to achieve the designated measurements. Cut two 9”x15” rectangles from the lining fabric. Position one fringe panel right side up on a flat work surface. Designate one long edge as the upper edge. Position tape along the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 16”x20” rectangle of metallic leather (D) • Three 8”x10” rectangles of contrasting metallic leather (A, B & C) • 1/2 yard each of lining, automotive headliner fabric & lightweight fusible interfacing (See “Sources.”) • 16”-long regular zipper • Matching polyester thread • Size leather needle • Basting tape or all-purpose glue stick • Binding clips (See “Sources.”) • Removable fabric marker • Rotary cutting system • Two 1”-wide D-rings • 1”-wide swivel clasp • 42” length of purse chain with one clasp end • Zipper foot • Purse tassel charm (optional) CUT Download the Heavy Metals Bag pattern at sewdaily.com. Print, and then cut out. Using the pattern, cut the piecing panels from the corresponding leather rectangles and from the interfacing. From the leather-D rectangle,…

DOUBLE-FOLD HEM After constructing a shirt dress, the hem will be one of the final tasks. For a double-folded hem, a minimum of 5/8” hem allowance is necessary. If the pattern had less than that, increase the hem allowance to allow for folding it twice. To evenly fold your hem, mark the hemline 5/8” from the cut edge using a seam gauge, tape measure or ruler. Make sure that the marks will fade away or disappear; test on a scrap of fabric first. Set the stitch length to 4.0 or 4.5 and machine baste on the marked line. Use a contrasting color thread, as it will be removed after hemming. Finger press the hem so that the machine basted line is visible all around the hem, especially at the curved…

DRESS PATTERNS Opt for a long-sleeve maxi-length dress pattern meant to be sewn in a knit fabric. STYLE inspiration COLOR PALETTE Find a starry knit print on either jersey or velvet for extra dimension. You can also panel different fabrics and prints together depending on your dress pattern. FINAL TOUCHES Add a touch of '90s style by adding on a chain belt to glam up the look, and then of course you’ll need some sunglasses to shield you from the sun. For an extra '90s nod and added color, try a pair of sunglasses with tinted lenses. TIP: Draft your own turtleneck (wide rectangle) for an existing knit dress pattern!…

CUSTOMIZE YOUR CLOTHES by Emma Warren This book features 20 projects for personalizing your clothes with hand embroidery. Using a range of techniques, materials and designs, it guides you through which tools to use and which stitches work best with certain designs. It teaches you how to embellish with a range of materials to add a special personal statement to your items. octopusbooksusa.com SEWING SCHOOL QUILTS by Amie Petronis Plumley & Andria Lisle Sewing School Quilts offers young sewists the opportunity to explore their own creative instincts within the parameters of a traditional art form. The book uses step-by-step directions, simple language and child-created examples of contemporary sewing projects to teach five different quilting styles to children ages eight and older. storey.com CREATE WITH CORK FABRIC by Jessica Sallie Kapitanski…