Indholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2020 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Summer sewing is kind of the best, isn’t it? If there’s anything I love more than making summer garments, it’s wearing them. Easy, breezy, likely linen: that’s my quintessential summer style. What’s yours? It’s no secret that I am a fan of an oversized silhouette, especially for summer: the less a garment touches me, the better. The Paonia Pinafore Dress on page 68 started life as a restyling of a spaghetti strap linen dress whose straps had stretched beyond repair. Designed to be worn over a snug tank or tee, this dress was my wardrobe MVP last summer. I knew I wanted to make more and I wanted to share this easy layering piece with you… so it became a pattern for this issue! Boxy is great (so…

SN: Where do you find inspiration? MD: Everywhere. On the street, magazines, Instagram. Sometimes I just have to take a deep breath and remind myself that I can’t make everything. SN: What's your favorite fabric to work with? MD: I love natural fabrics, linen and cotton specifically. SN: What's your greatest extravagance? MD: Silk. Sewing it can be challenging, however wearing it is a dream. SN: What's your must-have tool in your studio? MD: My new motorized height-adjustable worktables. I do all my sewing standing up, and my tables allow me to work at a perfect height. No more neck and back issues. SN: What's your motto? MD: Find joy in as many things as possible. Never compare yourself to others, just be you. SN: What other hobbies do you…

Q I love the one-shoulder look and would like to add this style to my wardrobe. What styles and shapes are easiest to fit? A One-shoulder looks are tricky to fit because the top edge of the garment sits in a woman’s natural hollows, above the bust and under the arm. For the dress or top to fit well, it should be snug, similar to a strapless, on the side without a shoulder. Also like a strapless design, the bust needs to fit smoothly so the one shoulder strap is not tempted to shift out of place. Unlike a strapless, though, the shoulder side also needs to have enough ease for movement in the armhole. When a sleeve is added for extra drama, it too must fit perfectly into…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Basic shift dress pattern (such as Willow Tank & Dress by Grainline Studio) • Light- or mediumweight woven fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard) • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Clear tape • Serger (optional) ALTER Cut out the pattern pieces. To eliminate the dress pleat, tape the skirt-front upper edge to the bodice-front lower edge, matching the seamlines (1). CONSTRUCT From the woven fabric, cut one dress front and back on the fold, one neckline binding and two armscye bindings. Transfer all pattern markings. Position the dress front on a flat work surface. Draw a diagonal line from the right shoulder/armscye seamline to the left side seamline at the hip. Designate as the ruffle placement line. Mark…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of medium- to heavyweight canvas & lining • Mediumweight fusible interfacing • 60” length of 1”-wide polyester webbing • 9” regular zipper • 1/2”-diameter snap • 1”-wide slide adjuster & side-release buckle • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Zipper foot) CUT Download the Meander Belt Bag pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until July 31, 2020. Purchase the pattern at sewdaily.com after the expiration date. Print out the pattern and then cut out. From the canvas, cut two main panels, one gusset, two pockets, two pocket flaps, two zipper panels and one casing. From the lining, cut two main panels, one gusset, two pockets and two zipper panels. From the interfacing, cut two main panels, one gusset, one pocket, one pocket flap…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Lightweight, drapey fabric (amount according to your measurements) • Underskirt fabric (such as lightweight knit or lining fabric; amount according to your measurements) • Coordinating thread • 1” elastic in the length of your natural waist measurement • Rotary cutter & ruler (optional) DRAFT This skirt is made using measurements of your natural waist, hip and desired length. The featured sample is stitched with measurements of 27” natural waist, 36” hip and 22” length. The skirt tiers are based off of the hip measurement, as the upper tier needs to be pulled on over the hips. The upper tier width is the hip measurement plus 4” (3” for ease and 1” for seam allowance). The middle tier width is 20” wider than the top tier…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Muslin and dupioni silk fabric (amount according to lampshade size) • 3 colors of 9”-long fringe (amount according to lampshade size) • Trim to match one of the fringe colors (amount according to lampshade size) • Metal lampshade requiring a cord kit (See “Source.”) • Pins/clips • Hand needle • Cotton sewing thread • Fabric glue Note: Fabric and fringe requirements are determined by the size of the lampshade. The largest ring of the featured lampshade is 17” in diameter with a 7” depth. It required 1 yard each of the fabrics, 40” of each color of fringe and 41” of trim. PREPARE Measure the circumference of the lampshade where the trim will be attached. Add 1” to the measurement and designate as the fringe…

Sometimes you just want to keep it casual, but that definitely doesn’t mean keep it boring! Flowing silhouettes and looser fits are creeping their way back into “influencer fashion,” and this look paired with contrasting subtle stripes, trims, tassels and lace goes to show you that it’s all in the details. BLOUSE PATTERN Opt for a button-up blouse pattern with a semi-loose fit. TIP Slightly lengthen the back piece for that high-low hem effect. SKIRT PATTERN Find an A-line midi length skirt pattern with or without panel seams. TIP Extend one of the side seams if you want a more asymmetrical look. FINAL TOUCHES Really accentuate the tassel trim by wearing matching accessories. Make it edgy like this look with a studded leather bag and boots or dress it down…

APPLIQUÉ: THE BASICS & BEYOND  by Janet Pittman Whether you’re just getting started in appliqué or are experienced and want to improve your techniques, this book has you in mind. You’ll find essential information on supplies and techniques along with nine inspiring projects, 12 alternate quilt layouts, 16 pattern groups for mixing and matching, helpful tips and much more. landauerpub.com FEED SACKS  by Linzee Kull McCray Feed sacks are the perfect example of a utilitarian product turned into something beautiful. This book explores the history of the humble feed sack, from a plain cotton sack to exuberantly patterned and colorful bags that were repurposed into frocks, aprons, and quilts by thrifty housewives in the first half of the 20th century. Extensive imagery and at-scale reproductions of these fabrics create an…

Inclusion is a huge topic right now. By considering diversity when creating community or when you create a brand, you can become an agent for change. Since inclusion can be such a broad spectrum, I’m going to focus on my own experiences. I am a disabled person. I don't often see myself reflected in communities or brands, and the sewing community is no exception. There are few representations of disabled people in pattern images, sewing magazines or in the sewing community in general through shares or challenges or any aspects of the community. Sewing events are often not wheelchair accessible and don't incorporate many breaks or rest areas. We live in a world that has not considered accessibility in the planning stage, but we can change that. In this article,…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 171/2"x91/2"x11/2" lemon slice pillow. • 3/4 yard of 60”-wide or 1 yard of 45”-wide yellow cotton fabric • 1/2 yard each of 45”- or 60”-wide white cotton fabric • 1/2 yard each of shrinking fabric & double-sided fusible web (See “Source.”) • 1 yard of fusible interfacing • Removable fabric marker • Polyester fiberfill • All-purpose thread • Hand-sewing needle PREPARE From each of the yellow fabric and shrinking fabric, cut one 13”x18” rectangle. Position the shrinking fabric over the yellow rectangle wrong side; baste the perimeter. Handle as one layer. Choose a decorative, looping stitch on the machine. Select a 3.5mm stitch length. Stitch over the entire rectangle surface. The closer the stitching, the denser the finished texture.…

BELTED DRESS HACK BY KATIE KORTMAN Skill Level: Beginner Hack a basic over-sized woven dress into a figure-flattering piece with unique waistband ties and short faux-kimono sleeves. SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting woven dress or top pattern with a V-neckline (such as Antero Shell Pattern by Sew News) • Woven fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus extra yardage depending on desired length) • Fusible interfacing (amount according to measurements) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Removable fabric marker PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER To lengthen the sleeve, tape pattern or tracing paper…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1 yard each of print canvas & lightweight fusible interfacing • 30” square of fusible foam stabilizer (See “Sources.”) • 1 1/2”-wide slide adjuster • Two 1 1/2”-wide D-rings & swivel hooks • 20” double-slider purse zipper (See “Sources.”) • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Zipper foot CUT Download the Right Round Bag pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until July 31, 2020. Purchase the pattern at sewdaily.com after the expiration date. Print out the pattern, and then cut out. From the canvas, cut two main panels, two zipper panels, one gusset, one strap and one D-ring tab. From the lining, cut two main panels, two zipper panels, one gusset and two pockets. From the fusible foam, cut two main panels, two zipper panels and…

BASE PATTERN Many of us have a favorite top or dress pattern that we like to use over and over again — a “tried and true” or TNT pattern. The fit is just right, but sometimes we want to update it or change it up a bit. The sleeves are a great place to start with pattern hacking. The featured top is made with BurdaStyle #132 01/2016, but these techniques can be adapted to any other pattern with similar design lines. When you already know that the sleeve fits into the armscye, it is easy to make design changes without disappointment. FLARED SLEEVE The flared or cape sleeve trend is so popular right now. The featured pattern has a two-piece sleeve, but a one-piece sleeve will work too. Skill Level:…

1. If you are a fan of fashion, sewing, and cards then these Stylish Guide to Classic Sewing Book Playing Cards are perfect. Best-selling authors Sarah Gunn and Julie Starr bring fun fashion illustrations to life in this imaginative deck – you just may get so distracted by them while playing your game that you will want to immediately head to your sewing studio. These also make a fabulous gift for the sewist who has everything. ctpub.com 2. If you think you've made every dress possible, think again. If you haven’t sewn one up with puffy sheer sleeves, then make sure that the new Audrey Dress Pattern from Cami Made is next on your list. With its high collar and loose fit, it promises to keep you cozy and chic…

Keep these tips in mind for best results when planning a design and selecting fabric appropriate for grommets and eyelets. • Select fabric that has a fairly tight weave or is tightly knit. Loose weaves don’t provide enough support for the weight of the metal, and many knits stretch and allow the grommet or eyelet to pop out. Avoid placing grommets or eyelets in any garment areas that will stretch. • When using grommets or eyelets on knit fabrics, make the smallest hole possible, and then stretch the fabric tightly around the shank. • Select grommets or eyelets that are the appropriate size for the fabric weight and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the number of fabric layers to use. • Use interfacing to reinforce the fabric area where eyelets…

Peter Lappin began sewing in 2009 and 11 years later is one of the internet’s most visible male sewists. Peter shares his passion with sewists from all over the world and at every level of experience on his blog, Male Pattern Boldness. Over the last 10 years, Peter has applied himself to sewing with the dedication of a monk, having sewn just about every sort of men's and women's garment. To say he loves to create clothes is an understatement. In sewing, Peter has found his life's true passion. Sew News: What do you love most about sewing? Peter Lappin: Most of all, I love the process of creating a three-dimensional garment out of one-dimensional fabric: it’s like alchemy and endlessly creative. I enjoy the journey from start to finish:…

A MESSAGE FROM MEG Ruffles are an easy way to add flair and volume to a pattern. There’s also something so theatrical about ruffles, and I say the more the merrier! In this case I added a gathered ruffle hem to a wrap skirt pattern and also played with the fabric’s stripe direction to add in additional dimension. Just looking at this skirt makes me want to dance the night away! Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Wrap skirt sewing pattern (such as Sew News Niagara Skirt) • 21/2 yards of main fabric or 11/2 yard of main fabric & 1 yard of contrasting fabric for the ruffle • Fusible interfacing • 10” invisible zipper • All-purpose thread • Sewing machine feet: piping (optional) & zipper or invisible zipper • Point…

• Adhere double-sided fusible web to the 13x18" rectangle wrong side following the manufacturer's instructions • From the rectangle, cut five segments and one center. • Attach the seeds to the segments following the project instructions. • Position the pith panel right side up on a flat work surface. Position each segment and center right side up over the panel at the placement markings; fuse. Edgestitch each segment and center perimeter. Designate as the citrus interior. • Finish the pillow following the project instructions.…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • One-piece scoop-neckline swimsuit pattern (such as Cottesloe Swimsuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns) • Swim fabric, lining & notions (according to pattern envelope) • 4”x8” rectangle of lightweight interfacing • Eight 1/4”-diameter 2-part eyelets & attachment tool (See “Sources.”) • Size 90/14 ballpoint or stretch needle • All-purpose polyester thread • Removable fabric marker • Binding clips (See “Sources.”) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. From the swim and lining fabric, cut out the pattern pieces following the pattern instructions. From the swim fabric, cut one 1 1/2”x50” strip for the tie. From the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 2 1/2 yards of lightweight fabric (such as linen or linen blend; see “Source.”) • Storebought bias tape or bias tape maker • Coordinating thread • Interfacing (optional) • Serger (optional) PREPARE Download the Paonia Pinafore Dress pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until July 31, 2020. Purchase the pattern at sewdaily.com after the expiration date. Print and tile the pattern pieces based on the finished measurements chart on the pattern download, using your hip measurements as a guide. From the linen fabric, cut one front and one back, one front facing and one back facing using the pattern pieces. Also cut two 2›1/2”x28” straps and two bias strips (approximately 24” each) if you plan to make your own bias tape. If your fabric needs stabilization, cut one…

Tis the season for swimwear, the big summer sewing milestone! With the right pattern, fabric, tools and techniques — making your own swimsuit can be as easy breezy as the summer wind. In episode 18 of the Sew & Tell podcast, we jump into a discussion on our own experiences with handmade swimwear. Below we share our thoughts as well as our dream swimsuits. KATE Swimsuit sewing is not something I’ve undertaken yet — though I worked on some specialty underwear that was pretty similar to a swimsuit in a lot of ways. I didn’t love the process; I really struggled with making the fabric and elastic behave. That said, it was a theater experience and I’m not sure that the fabric and elastic chosen for the project by the…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com during the month of June and July to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Get summer-swim ready with this fashionable one-piece swimsuit. By registering, you’re automatically entered to win a serger from Husqvarna Viking. THE PATTERN Summer, meet the Salida Swimsuit! With cool colorblocking and unique one-strap design, this one-piece is classic yet stylish and distinct… and also comfortable! The single strap design makes for easy customization depending on your torso length. Available in sizes 0-34, you’ll want swimsuit fabric for this pattern (up to 11/4 yards depending on size and fabric width), along with 3 yards of swimsuit elastic. Find the swimsuit pattern and the video and pattern combo at sewdaily.com after July 31, 2020.…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal: Summer Stunner" – page 26) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com PAM HOWARD (“Masterclass: Elite Sleeves” — page 74) owns Pamela's Closet, Inc., which specializes in ladies couture tailoring, advanced sewing instruction, and fitting. Pam has a B.S. in Textiles & Clothing and is a member of the Atlanta Chapter of the American Sewing Guild. She loves the possibility of what a piece of fabric can become. pamelasclosetinc.com KATIE KORTMAN (“Two Way Tie: Antero Shell Hack” – page 50) loves painting,…