Indholdsfortegnelse for August/September 2020 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Prints — all the time, sparingly, never? If you’re a passionate sewist, chances are you have a passionate answer for this question. We are team prints here at Sew News HQ… and we are here to indulge you! This issue is chock full of print-centric projects to help you choose and use prints well, print mix like a pro, create your own custom prints and add a touch of bold pattern to your wardrobe. There are so many ways to get started. Print-mix a one-of-a-kind robe that you’ll want to wear out. Customize an easy-sew zip pouch with embroidery hoop printing. Pair two fabrics and stitch the perfect cross-bodice jumpsuit with cool print blocking. Stitch a custom-printed shift dress for a wearable art piece. Get professional print mixing…

SN: Describe your perfect day. EH: A perfect day is one spent in the studio looking at fabric, sewing my own clothes, thinking about colors and outfit ideas and just being surrounded by the things that inspire me. And someone else making dinner and cleaning the kitchen so I can maximize my time in the studio! SN: What's your best way to decompress? EH: I’m the worst at decompressing! I’m a classic over-thinker and always analyzing, daydreaming, brainstorming or planning, so it's hard to turn that off and reset. I'm also always excited about all the things I want to do, so taking time to decompress can feel like a waste. But I made a resolution this year to be better about allowing time for that, and for me, that…

Using differential feed and the serger shirring foot, you can gather and attach the ruffle to the fabric in one step. With lightweight fabrics and the highest positive differential-feed setting, the ruffle will gather on approximately a 2:1 basis. Right sides together, place the ruffle underneath and the flat fabric layer on the top. (Note that the ruffle will be much longer than the top layer at this point). Serge with a wide balanced stitch, letting the shirring foot do the gathering. If no shirring foot is available, adjust to a positive differential feed, place the fabrics together as above, hold the upper layer, and allow the fabric underneath to gather as you serge. To finish the ends when the ruffle does not extend the full length of the seam,…

Q I have many pieces of large print fabric in my stash. Every time I try to design and sew these fabrics, I give up, worried they will overwhelm me. Any design tips to tame a large print for a neat, proportionate look? A Your instinct to use your large prints judiciously is excellent. A garment can become overwhelming if a large print is used in an oversized garment. Incorporate one or more of these tips to allow the large print to make a statement without stealing the show (1). • Choose a pattern with a neat natural shoulder line and an easy silhouette. Designs that are oversized made in a large print can overwhelm the wearer. Tightly-fitted styles are not good choices as they break up the print in…

alethiahudsondesigns.com and @sewmuchtalent I am the creator and founder of Sew Much Talent. We host monthly sewing and DIY challenges and yearly sewing retreats. I am a 52-year-old full-time Custom Clothier and Expert Alterationist. I enjoy creating beautiful wedding gowns and formals for my clients. I also enjoy teaching others to sew, and, even more so, I take great joy in creating beautiful and timeless clothing for myself. This is why I am so ecstatic about discovering SewOver50. Finally there is a community that supports us golden girls (and boys)! I was so attracted to SewOver50 because the creators chose to spotlight talented and creative individuals in my age group with spunk, vigor and sassiness. I LOVE IT. When I first learned of this community, I saw sewists and crafters…

A MESSAGE FROM MEG I’m definitely more of a small purse girl, but I love the structure of a classic duffle bag. So instead of making this bag big enough for a weekend away, I used my printer settings to shrink it into a structured mini duffle. Using leather-like Kraft-tex cut down on the need for interfacing and gave me the shape I wanted. To add to the style of bag, instead of fabric straps, I opted for a fashionable chain to create a high-end, open crossbody purse that closes with a snap. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Digital duffle bag pattern (See “Sources.”) • 181/2” x 281/2" roll of Kraft-tex paper fabric (See “Sources.”) • 1/4 yard of lining fabric such as cotton or rayon (See “Sources.”) • 1/4…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 3 yards of mediumweight cotton fabric (such as denim; see “Sources”) • 1 yard of lining or contrasting fabric (such as rayon; see “Sources”) • 1 yard of 1/2"-wide elastic • Scrap of woven fusible interfacing • Large safety pin • Matching all-purpose thread • Size 80/12 universal sewing machine needle • Hand-sewing needle • One small snap PREPARE Print and tile the pattern. Cut out all pattern pieces in the size that corresponds to your hip and bust circumferences. Shorten/lengthen the jumpsuit along the adjustment lines if necessary. From the denim fabric, cut one front bodice right side down, one back bodice on the fold, two straps, two front pants and two back pants. From the lining fabric, cut two cuffs and three front…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting woven blouse pattern with 3/4 length sleeves (such as Vita Blouse Pattern by Bel’Etoile) • Woven print fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus extra yardage depending on desired length; see “Sources.”) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Removable fabric marker • Two decorative buttons (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. The featured blouse has 3/4 length sleeves and a scoop neckline. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace a copy of the front and back bodice pattern. If needed, create full-size patterns for any pieces that are cut on the…

Writing about print mixing took me on an adventure to my local and online fabric stores. For much of my life as a professional sewist and tailor, I’ve made garments using solid colors or textured fabrics. I have always had lots of admiration for quilters because they have the eye for coordinating patterns, prints and colors together. Yes, I do make garments with patterns or prints, but they have usually been used as accent pieces to go with a solid jacket, pants, skirts, etc. There are many online sources with beautiful fabrics to choose from, but what worked best for me was to go to my local fabric store so that I could lay the fabrics side by side. It helped me to see what worked best together. I will…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com during the months of August and September to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew up a rugged duffle for your fall adventures. By registering, you’re automatically entered to win a new sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. THE PATTERN The Grand Lake Duffle Bag is the world’s most perfect weekender bag: small enough for easy toting but large enough for your weekend essentials. A single long zipper allows for easy access, while large exterior pockets provide storage options. Customize and resize to your heart’s content! You’ll need 2 to 21/2 yards of exterior fabric (such as home décor, canvas or heavy denim) and lining fabric, plus interfacing or light batting for structure. Find the duffle pattern and the video and…

Now you don’t have to worry whether those fabrics perfectly match and complement each other — the bigger contrast, the better! Think red and pink together, different print designs, white and beige: no rules apply. Print mixing is not just a different printed top with bottoms anymore; now they are purposely sewn together in one garment, and we love the fun and free end result, especially in this lovely wrap dress. DRESS PATTERN Opt for a wrap-style dress pattern with some swing in the skirt. FINAL TOUCHES The best part of all the different colors and prints in one look is the accent color for your accessories can really be anything! You could go neutral and pair with some black boots or shoes like the featured look, or select your…

FRESH QUILTS FROM TRADITIONAL BLOCKS By Sarah J. Maxwell Quilt outside your comfort zone! This must-have project book is designed to push boundaries, build your confidence and inspire you to create beautiful modern quilts. It includes 14 step-by-step projects with clear, insightful guidance on combining fabrics from different lines and genres to encourage mixing and matching. You’ll discover a new world of possibility! foxchapelpublishing.com SEWING FOR BABIES AND CHILDREN By Laura Strutt This book presents a collection of adorable clothes and accessories to make for babies and children from ages 0-5. Using simple sewing techniques, beautiful fabrics and stunning details, the designs are irresistible and guaranteed to stand out from the crowd. Fifteen full-sized patterns are included. rylandpeters.com SEW SMALL: 19 LITTLE BAGS By Jennifer Heynen A place for everything…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal" – page 26) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com PAM HOWARD (“Masterclass: Print Mixing” — page 68) owns Pamela's Closet, Inc., which specializes in ladies couture tailoring, advanced sewing instruction, and fitting. Pam has a B.S. in Textiles & Clothing and is a member of the Atlanta Chapter of the American Sewing Guild. She loves the possibility of what a piece of fabric can become. pamelasclosetinc.com KATIE KORTMAN (“Artfully Pleated” – page 56) loves painting, sewing and dancing, particularly in the…

Beth is one of SewOver50’s 18,000 followers on Instagram. Many of these followers join in by posting photos of what they’re making or have made, often proudly modelling the projects themselves, and use the hashtag #SewOver50 so that other like-minded people can find them. Other users might hit the “like” button or leave an encouraging comment. Connections are formed, advice and inspiration shared. On the @SewOver50 account itself, we repost one of these posts on a daily basis, sharing the garments or technique with our followers. We repost many more on our stories each day, sharing a cross section of what our community is up to, including happy events such as makers from the community meeting up in real life or informing followers about forthcoming events and challenges. We include…

When I turned 50, I was grateful to have survived decades of fighting my battle with bipolar disorder, but the only thing that made it a remarkable birthday for me was getting to join in with the hashtag #SewOver50 on Instagram. I’ve been sewing for over 40 years but only rarely have I had real life sewing friends. I had already been posting makes on Instagram as a sort of sewing archive for myself, and by using #sewover50, I now feel connected to, and like an active participant in, a worldwide community of people who sew, who can relate to some of my life experiences and who teach me so much about sewing and life! At the same time I’ve created an evolving record of my makes, new techniques and…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Kimono robe pattern (such as Suki Robe by Helen’s Closet Patterns) • 1 yard each of four coordinating lightweight, drapey woven print fabrics of similar weight and drape (A, B, C & D) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace the front and back pattern onto new pattern paper, transferring all markings. Position the front pattern piece on a flat work surface. Measure 3” below the armscye/side seam intersection along the side seam; label point “A”. Draw a line perpendicular…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 20” square pillow. • Two 21” squares of upholstery or decorator-weight fabric • Matching all-purpose thread • Adhesive craft foam • Pencil • Paper scissors or craft knife • Rolling pin • Fabric printing ink or paint (See “Source.”) • Sheet of glass or acrylic • Paintbrush or spoon • Old towel • 20” square pillow form PRINT Position the craft foam with the paper backing facing up on a flat work surface. Using a pencil, sketch the desired design onto the paper backing (1). The featured pillows use different sizes of circles and semicircles. Cut out all the shapes using sharp scissors or a craft knife. Remove the paper backing from the shapes, and then apply to the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Gathered skirt pattern with waistline yoke (such as Butterick 5756) • Denim fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope) • 3”-wide embroidered ribbon (amount according to skirt measurements; see “Sources.”) • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Double-sided permanent fabric adhesive tape (amount according to hem circumference; see “Sources.”) • Plastic snap tape (amount according to hem circumference; see “Sources.”) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. The featured skirt is knee length and excludes a lining. From the fabric, cut out the pattern pieces following the pattern instructions. CONSTRUCT Construct the skirt following the pattern instructions. Measure the skirt lower edge circumference; record. From the snap tape, cut a female and male length according to the recorded measurement. Keep both sides of the…

Sew News: How did you get started sewing? Duane MacLeod: My introduction to sewing came as a newlywed back in the mid 70s. We had moved into a “bare bones” off-campus apartment, and I made the comment that we needed to go out and buy some curtains. My wife looked at me and said something like, “You idiot, people don’t buy curtains, you make them!” So we borrowed her mother’s Singer 301 (I use it to this day!), bought the cheapest sheets we could find and turned them into curtains. We tie-dyed them and thought they were the best curtains ever. (It was the 70s, after all!) I learned how a sewing machine works and how to sew a straight line. Those skills led to many other DIY projects over…

@bethpinckney and makewelcome.org I am 62. I’ve been sewing off and on (mostly off) since I was 10. In the last two years, however, I have been inspired by the online sewing community, particularly on Instagram, and have upped my garment sewing considerably. I am continually inspired by the women in my age demographic who are creating beautiful garments and enjoying their handmade wardrobes. Some of these women, like me, have been sewing for a number of years, others are newer to it, but for all of us in the SewOver50 crowd, sewing is empowering. I engage my mind and hands and stretch my creativity as I try new patterns and learn new skills, inspired by all the beautiful pictures of beautiful over-50 women. I love the freedom we feel…

@bricolagedk Hi. I’m Tina. I am a 51-year-old administrator at a university in Denmark, and I live in Copenhagen with my 14-year-old son. Besides sewing my own clothes, I also love gardening. In spring 2019, I was struggling to adjust to an altered body shape after a mastectomy, so I started sewing again because RTW clothing just did not feel comfortable. I found a lack of patterns and information available on sewing for asymmetric bodies, so I contacted SewOver50 on Instagram to ask for their help. They shared my question with the community and I got an amazing response. Several sewists alerted me to suitable patterns, told me of helpful sewing tools for hurting hands and of patternmaking books with drafting tips for asymmetric sewing. Everyone was extremely supportive, and…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 41/2"x71/2" pouch. • 12” square & 7”x12” rectangle of apparel leather, vinyl or cork fabric • 7”-long regular plastic zipper • 1/2”-wide swivel clasp • 1”-wide D-ring • 2 ounces of leather paint (See “Sources.”) • 10”-diameter embroidery hoop • 12” square of sheer woven fabric (such as organza or screen-printing silk) • Decoupage medium • 8 1/2”x11” sticker paper • Scissors, paper cutting machine or paper punch • Rubber squeegee • Plastic gift card • Cardboard (enough to protect work surface) • Binding clips (See “Sources.”) • PTFE presser foot • Rotary cutting system • Matching polyester thread • Glue stick • Painter’s tape • Capped rivet set & attachment tool (optional) PREPARE Separate the embroidery hoop. Center…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1/4 yard each of heavyweight print fabric (exterior) & quilting cotton (lining) • 3/4 yard of mediumweight fusible interfacing (See “Sources.”) • Matching all-purpose thread • 60” length of 8mm curb chain (See “Sources.”) • Eight 8mm-diameter grommets and setting tools • Needle-nose pliers • Removable fabric marker PREPARE Download the Crossbody Bucket Bag pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until Sept. 30, 2020. Print, and then cut out. From each of the exterior fabric and interfacing, cut one main panel and one base panel. From the lining fabric, cut one lining main panel, one base panel and one pocket. Fuse the interfacing pieces to the corresponding piece wrong side following the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer all pattern markings. CONSTRUCT Use 3/8" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Fold the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Shift dress pattern (such as Lottie Pattern by Christine Haynes) • Mediumweight woven fabric (amount according to pattern envelope) • Notions (according to pattern envelope) • 10”x12” rectangle of 6mm high-density self-adhesive foam (See “Sources.”) • 10”x12” clear acrylic stamp block (See “Sources.”) • Two 8-ounce bottles of soft fabric paint (See “Sources.”) • Old bath towel or yoga mat • Paper plate • Craft knife • Foam dauber • Craft paper • Transparent tape • Tailor’s chalk PREPARE Prewash and dry the fabric according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Download the Shape Shift template at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Print two copies of the template. Tape one template wrong side up to the stamp block upper side, making sure the image is visible on the block lower side…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Military-inspired vest pattern with collar (such as Magnuson Vest by Straight Stitch Designs) • 2 yards of woven print fabric (A) • 1 1/2 yards of coordinating woven print fabric (B) • 1/2 yard of coordinating woven print fabric (C) • Notions & fusible interfacing (according to pattern envelope, except buttons) • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Pattern or tracing paper • Five 5/8”-diameter heavy-duty snaps DRAFT To draft the hood pattern, place a large piece of pattern paper on a flat work surface. Draw an 11 1/2”x16” rectangle. Designate one short edge as the upper edge. Position the collar-stand pattern upper edge along the rectangle lower edge, aligning the collar front notch with the rectangle lower-right corner. Mark the collar-stand center-back…