Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2021 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Winters in Colorado can be long, dark and snowy. As we start into the new year each year, I find myself craving color, namely a nice, fresh green. That became the starting place for this issue of Sew News: a celebration of the coming spring, renewal and all things green. From that simple inspiration, so many good things grew. And you can join in the fun! • Stitch a Penrose Peasant Blouse as part of our next free sew along. We are in love with this pattern: it’s special yet perfect for every day! See page 78 for the full details. • Create a fresh bag with dyed rope and an upcycled leather belt on page 38. • Add foliage you can’t kill to your décor with your…

SN: Describe your perfect day. MP: This is tricky to answer after months of sheltering in place due to Covid 19 — there are many things I miss, but I've made peace with spending more time inside. My perfect day would include iced coffee, a long walk outside, a phone call with a friend, something delicious to eat, and of course, time for making things with my hands. I stay up late — 2am is my usual bedtime — so my perfect day would stretch into the wee hours. I get some of my best creative work done after midnight. SN: What's your best way to decompress? MP: My favorite way to relax is taking a very hot bath with aromatic salts, an ice-cold drink and a stack of magazines.…

QI recently made a wrap top in woven fabric. The front fits great but the back and sleeves are too tight. How do I avoid these surprises in the future? A Wrap tops, like any sewn garment, require careful fitting attention to each piece in the garment puzzle. The upper body fit is especially tricky when using woven fabrics because of the contours in the shoulder, armhole, bustline and back that all affect the fit. Since the front fits well, we will bypass the front fit and focus on fitting the back and sleeves. This information will be useful for any woven top with set-in sleeves. Use your ill-fitting top to assess the problems. Even if you have measured accurately and know the fit should be correct technically, it could…

Creating neat, non-sagging patch pockets with knits can be difficult. For a pocket with a 1/4” seam allowance, complete the following construction steps. Stabilize the pocket hem or the entire pocket, depending on the fabric weight, by fusing lightweight interfacing to the fabric wrong side. Fold the hem to the pocket right side and serge around the pocket raw edges (skim, don’t trim the edge), adjusting the differential feed from 1.5 to 2.0 around any curves and back to normal on the straight edges. Trim the corners and turn the hem right side out; topstitch the hem in place. Press the serged seam allowance to the wrong side, using the stitched width as a guide (A). If you’re having trouble keeping the pocket in place for topstitching, consider fusing it…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make two pillow covers. • 1 1/4 yards of at least 45”-wide linen fabric• Two 22” squares of batting• Two 14”-long coordinating regular plastic zippers• Matching & contrasting all-purpose thread• Water-soluble fabric marker• Presser feet: zipper & darning• Painter’s tape• Two 21” square pillow forms• Serger (optional) CUT From the linen fabric, cut four 21”x22 1/2” rectangles with the 21” edge parallel to the fabric selvage. Mark the 21” rectangle edges using a water-soluble fabric marker. Designate as the main panels. Trim 1 1/2” from one main-panel long edge to create a 21” square for the front panel. Discard the small fabric strip. Repeat to create a second front panel. Trim 2” from one main-panel long edge to create a 20 1/2”x21” rectangle for…

SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting woven blouse pattern with long sleeves• Lightweight woven fabric (amount according to measurements)• Approximately 3 yards of single-fold bias tape• Approximately 1/2 yard of 1/4”-wide elastic• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Straight ruler• Removable fabric marker PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace a copy of the sleeve pattern. Mark the desired sleeve length on the pattern including a 1/4” hem allowance. The featured pattern has 3/4-legnth sleeves. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the sleeve lower edge at the mark; cut along the drawn line. Straighten the sleeve underarm edges if…

Learn how to determine if leather needs to be prepared to accept paint. • Apply leather paint to a leather scrap selected for the finished project. Once the paint is dry, bend and manipulate the leather to check the pain adhesion. If the paint doesn’t chip or crack, the leather can be used without applying a preparer and deglazer product. If the paint chips or cracks, treat the leather with a preparer and deglazer product or select a different leather without a finish. • To prepare leather using a preparer and deglazer product, apply the product to a leather scrap selected for the finished project. The product removes the leather finish that prevents paint absorption. Decorative treatment on the leather, such as a metallic finish, may be removed with the…

MODERN: York Pinafore by Helen's Closet This modern take on the pinafore is quick to stitch and creates a loose layering piece that we love for spring. One view includes two large curved pockets while the other features a higher neckline and a single large kangaroo pocket. helensclosetpatterns.com ARTSY: Paonia Pinafore by Sew News The Paonia is a great pick if you’re looking for a loose-fit silhouette with sundress vibes. With exaggerated armholes, the oversized fit is comfortable and easy to style. Pair this midi-length pinafore with a slim-fit tank and leather sandals for summer. sewdaily.com VINTAGE-LOVER: The Pippi Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren Handmade The Pippi Pinafore packs in the vintage styling. It’s hard to pick which we love more: the slightly flared skirt or those cool curved pockets. jenniferlaurenvintage.com…

Not quite out of the cold, and not quite into the heat — oh, what to wear? During times of transitional weather, layers are always a good idea. But instead of a basic cardigan or that same jacket you’ve been wearing for the past several years, why not sew up something new, like a cocoon coat with fringe? The key to this look is the three-quarter sleeves that make this layer more spring-like and the fun tropical print. If you can’t wait to wear this robe jacket before spring has officially sprung, try wearing it over a thicker long-sleeve sweater or turtleneck. ROBE COAT PATTERN Opt for a loose-fitting, 3/4-sleeve jacket or robe pattern with minimal seams so as to not break up the print. Tip: Sleeves too long or…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal” – page 22) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com JENNIFER KEMPLER (“Palm Pillows” – page 46 and “Pass the Chips Pouch” – page 49) learned to sew from her mother, who encouraged Jennifer by letting her use the sewing machine and buying her fabric. She’s been sewing ever since and can often be heard saying "we could totally make that"! jennifersewsagain.blogspot.com KAYLEE LOCKHART (“Sage Abstraction Cushion” – page 69) is a Denver-based journalist, pattern designer and maker. She has been working…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 8”-diameter bag. • 20 yards of 3/16” cotton macrame rope• Fabric dye• Thread: coordinating & topstitching• Coordinating scrap fabric (3”x34”)• Old leather belt• Awl or leather punch• Old button• Tapestry needle PREPARE Following the dye package instructions, dye the rope the color of your choosing. Allow the rope to fully dry before moving on to the next step. Start by wrapping one end of the rope in a coil a couple of times. Secure this coil with a pin. Set your machine to a zigzag stitch with a width of 5 and a length of 2. Stitch the coil back and forth a few times to secure the rope. This will become the center of one side of the bag. Continue stitching…

SUPPLIES • 1/8 yard each of light-green woven cotton fabric & dark-green or brown lightweight textured faux leather• 5” square of brown woven fabric• 7” brown regular plastic zipper• 1/2”-wide metal swivel claps• Matching all-purpose thread• Zipper foot PREPARE Download the Pass the Chips Pouch pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; print. Cut one avocado flesh from the light-green fabric. From the faux leather, cut one avocado skin, one 1”x2” strip for the clasp tab, two 1”x7” strips for the zipper and one 2”x15” strip for the gusset. Cut one pit from the brown scrap. Transfer marking A to the avocado flesh and marking B to the avocado skin. CONSTRUCT Press the clasp tab in half lengthwise with wrong sides together; unfold. Fold each tab long edge toward the foldline; press. Zigzag stitch…

SUPPLIES • Short sleeve men’s button-up (size according to your shoulder-width measurement)• 1/2” coordinating single-fold bias tape (amount according to measurements)• All-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker CONSTRUCT Use 1/4” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Cut off each sleeve lower edge just above the hem stitching line. Designate each piece as the new sleeve cuff (1). Remove the hem stitching from each sleeve cuff; press open. Insert one arm into one cuff and place around your upper arm. Tighten the cuff close to your arm, but still allowing for ease of movement; pin-mark. Remove the cuff from your arm. Stitch along the pin-mark, and then trim to a 1/2” seam allowance. Press the cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and aligning the raw long edges; unfold. Fold one cuff…

SUPPLIES • 1/2” yard of linen fabric• One 1”-diameter covered button kit• Matching & contrasting all-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker• Size 11 appliqué needle• 14”-diameter cushion form or fiberfill PREPARE Download the Sage Abstraction Cushion pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; print. Print an extra copy of the cushion shapes to use as a template for the appliqué placement. From the linen fabric, cut two main panels and each appliqué shape. Transfer all pattern markings. APPLIQUÉ Position one main panel right side up on a flat work surface. Position each appliqué shape right side up over the main panel, using the template as a guide for proper placement and making sure the shapes are at least 3/4” from the main-panel perimeter. Once satisfied, hand baste each shape perimeter using a 1/4” seam allowance…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com now through April 30, 2021,to get the Penrose Peasant Blouse pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew up the perfect square-neck peasant blouse for spring — with us! By registering, you’re automatically entered to win a new sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. THE PATTERN Combine chic style with an easy-wearing silhouette and you’ve got the Penrose Blouse pattern. With an on-trend square neckline and easy bust gathers, the Penrose packs in the dramatic volume while remaining practical for every day. The pattern includes sizes 0-34, and stitches up perfectly in a wide variety of wovens, including the featured eyelet. Find the blouse pattern and the video and pattern combo at sewdaily.com after April 30, 2021. IN THE DETAILS With a square neckline,…

Sew News: What do you love most about sewing? Donny Hoang: My favorite part about sewing is the opportunity to customize and personalize a garment anywhere along the process. From sketching the idea to making the pattern (or adjusting an old one) to constructing and finally wearing and styling a garment, there are so many places to inject personal creativity, and I love that. The ability to create unique and personal clothes is enjoyable to me. SN: Who has been influential in your sewing journey? DH: The people who taught me how to sew. Most of my learning came from watching YouTube videos. I often refer to withwendy, Professor Pincushion or Diane Deziel. When I started sewing, withwendy had so many beginner-friendly sewing projects to cut my teeth on. Early…

Necklines are easy to install on a serger, provided you keep these tips in mind. When serging ribbing or self-fabric neckband, consider these tips. • The more the neckband is stretched while being applied around the neckline, the flatter the neckband will lay. Use the provided pattern pieces, but as a general rule, the neckband should measure 75% to 90% of the neckline opening, depending on the amount of stretch in the fabric. • Serge with the neckband on top. • Disengage the blade as you cross over the start of the stitching. • If you’re finishing a t-shirt or lightweight knit with ribbing, apply it flat before the shoulder, underarm and side seams are stitched.…

Imagine if you were able to identify fit issues on a pattern before you ever made a muslin. You would save so much time, money and headache. You can easily go from pattern to fashion fabric with just one muslin — or even none. The secret to better-fitting garments in less time is understanding the anatomy of your body, knowing what your measurements are and how to relate them to a pattern. Give yourself that power by preparing yourself ahead of time. SUPPLIES • 2 measuring tapes• L-shape ruler• Pencil & paper• Small dot stickers or thin washi/drape tape• 2-3 yards of 1/4” elastic• Multi-colored pencils• Safety pins (optional) PREPARE Wear the same undergarments that you usually wear. Pull your hair back if you have long hair. Keeping your hair…

SUPPLIES • Wrap top pattern (such as Wrap Top by Peppermint Magazine; see “Sources.”)• Collar pattern• Linen fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard; see “Sources.”)• 1/4 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing• 21/2 yards of coordinating double-fold bias tape• 1/2 yard of 1/4”-wide elastic• Matching & contrasting all-purpose thread• Pattern tracing paper• Safety pin• Serger (optional) CUT Download the basic collar pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies or use your own favorite collar pattern piece. From the linen fabric, cut out the top pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions, but cut two additional ties for the tie facings and omit the neck facing. Cut two collars. From the interfacing, cut one collar. Fuse the interfacing to one collar wrong side according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Designate as the upper collar.…

Fabric & Pattern Always consider the fabric weight and drape for a godet skirt. Drapey fabric creates a skirt with a lot of movement, while a fabric without drape holds a more dramatic silhouette. Select most any fabric for the skirt ruffle, as long as it’s not too heavyweight to gather. The featured skirt is hand-dyed lightweight crêpe-back satin that features a lot of drape. Select a skirt pattern with multiple vertical seams to insert godets. Adjust the skirt pattern hem allowance to match your chosen godet seam allowances. Drafting Godets • To create a convex godet that creates an even hemline, place pattern paper on a flat work surface. Draw a vertical line according to the desired godet height; label line “A.” The featured skirt has 13”-tall godets. •…

AMANDA CARESTIO PATTERN: Wildwood Wrap Dress Version A by Sew House 7 (sewhouse7.com) SIZE: 12 FABRIC: Linen from Minerva Crafts (minveracrafts.com) As soon as this pattern was released, I knew I had to sew it up. I find that all the designs from Sew House 7 are a good fit for my design tastes – feminine and unique but not overly romantic – and the Wildwood Wrap Dress is no different. I was probably first drawn to the neckline of this dress, which features a shallow and soft shawl-type collar. The way the neckline facing is created is really unique – always love the little surprises from this designer! The bodice includes pleats at the center front waist to manage bulk and provide shaping for the wrap elements as well…

LOVE YOUR CREATIVE SPACE By Lilo Bowman Do you dream of a studio that is well arranged, beautiful, organized and doesn’t cost a bundle? This book will help you design the creative studio of your dreams. Get a sneak peek inside studios of all sizes, designed for budgets large and small. Keep creativity flowing and stay organized with smart systems. Personalize a space that works for you — and that you love! ctpub.com ANIMAL EMBROIDERY WORKBOOK By Jessica Long Take your embroidery to the next level with the most charming embroidery book you’ll ever own. It’s filled with 30 one-of-a-kind animal projects that aim to build your embroidery skill set and confidence. Basic instructions are followed by projects that advance in skill level, with instructions, diagrams, color keys and full-sized…