Indholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2021 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Winters in Colorado can be long, dark and snowy. As we start into the new year each year, I find myself craving color, namely a nice, fresh green. That became the starting place for this issue of Sew News: a celebration of the coming spring, renewal and all things green. From that simple inspiration, so many good things grew. And you can join in the fun! • Stitch up ruffle-y Shoreline Shorts (page 44) or easy DIY Ruffle Hoop earrings (page 42). • Upcyle men’s shirt for the perfect summer sleep romper or create party-ready fabric placemats from sheets. • Combine vinyl and Kraftex to create the Sunny Stripes Tote (page 34) or sew a sporty crossover zipper bag – see the Buckle Up Bag on page 48.…

SN: What's your must-have tool in your studio? AB: My OmniGrid quilting rulers! Listen, ff you don't have one of these rulers, you need to grab one. They’re super sturdy and so versatile. I use them mainly for my business and cutting but they can also be used for quilting too. I have also fallen in love with my Merchant and Mills wooden folding ruler. SN: What's your favorite fabric to work with? AB: Anything natural or organic! Lately I've been on a linen kick, but I also enjoy a good cotton or viscose. I'm partial towards wovens but, if I find a good cotton jersey, I like to access my knits side occasionally too. SN: Where do you find inspiration? AB: The sewing community on Instagram and Pinterest! My…

Q In the last issue you addressed the back and sleeves of a wrap dress, could you now address the fitting issues of the front of a wrap dress? My fronts always look tight across the fullness of the chest, but then loose where the fronts cross. A Wrap tops, like any sewn garment, require careful fitting attention to each piece in the garment puzzle. Upper body fit is especially tricky when using woven fabrics because of the contours in the shoulder, armhole, bustline and back that all effect the fit. With the back issues addressed, let’s take a long look at the challenges fitting the front. Most wrap tops have set-in sleeves, so we’ll focus on a fitted wrap top with set-in sleeves and darts as shaping. Whether the…

SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard of 10- or 12-gauge clear vinyl • One roll of leather paper (See “Sources.”) • All-purpose thread • Size 100/16 universal or 90/14 leather needle • Clear glue stick • Binder or binding clips (See “Sources.”) PREPARE From the vinyl, cut two 12›1/2”x14” rectangles for the main panels and two 5”x14” rectangles for the side panels. From the leather paper, cut two 4”x11 1/2” rectangles for the base panels, four 2”x28” rectangles for the straps and ten 1”x14” appliqué strips. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Position one side panel on a flat work surface. Apply glue stick to one appliqué-strip wrong side. Center the strip lengthwise and right side up over the side panel; finger-press to secure (1). Repeat to glue an appliqué…

SUPPLIES • Shorts pattern (See “Sources.”) • Linen blend fabric (amount according to chart; see “Sources.”) • 1”-wide elastic (amount according to measurements) • Matching all-purpose thread CUT Download the Shoreline Shorts pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies for free until August 31, 2021; print, and then cut out. From the fabric, cut two fronts, two backs, two pockets, two front waistbands, two back waistbands, two front ruffles and two back ruffles according to the cutting layout on the pattern download. If cutting larger sizes using 44”-wide fabric, cut the back ruffle and back waistband on a single fabric layer. From the elastic, cut two pieces based on the chart. CONSTRUCT Use 5/8” seam allowances unless otherwise noted and finish the seam allowances as desired. Pin one pocket to the corresponding front with…

SUPPLIES • Lightweight or mediumweight woven fabric (such as linen blend; amount according to measurements) • 1/8”- or 11/2”-diameter button • 4” length of 1/16”-diameter elastic cord • All-purpose thread • Pattern paper • Rulers: clear straight & French • Measuring tape • Removable fabric marker • Hand sewing needle • Serger (optional) MEASURE Download the body measurements diagram and chart from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; record your measurements DRAFT Add 1›3/4” ease to the front and back full-bust circumference measurement; record. Add 1” ease to the front and back waistline-circumference measurement; record. Add 1 1/2” ease to the front and back hipline-circumference measurement; record. On a piece of pattern paper, draw a vertical line near the right edge. Draw a perpendicular line from the vertical line along the paper upper edge, making…

HAND STITCHES TO KNOW Backstitch: Working from right to left, bring the needle up at 1 and insert behind the starting point at 2. Bring the needle up at 3, repeat by inserting at 1 and bringing the needle up at a point that is a stitch length beyond 3. Stem Stitch: Working from left to right, bring the needle up at 1 and insert it ¹/8”–¼" away at 2 (do not pull taut). Bring the needle up halfway between 1 and 2, at 3. Keeping the needle above the loop just created, pull the stitch taut. Repeat by inserting the needle ¹/8”–¼" to the right and bring up at 2. Lazy Daisy: Working from top to bottom, bring the needle up at 1 and create a loop by reinserting…

Q: How do you make pattern adjustments? A: Adjustments like blending sizes can be done by using a fabric marker or chalk and tracing your desired seamlines before cutting. Anything more than that and you might consider projecting the pattern as-is to something like Swedish Tracing Paper or Pellon Easy Pattern. Then make your adjustments like normal. This still saves you the time of assembling a pattern, not to mention printer ink. Q: How much does this cost? A: There are many variables, you can find projectors in the $50 range all the way up to a few hundred. You get what you pay for. The more expensive projectors generally have more capabilities like WiFi, remotes, auto focus, keystone adjustment, etc. Q: What projector do you recommend? A: Every sewist’s…

IN THE TRENCHES It’s that classic London look that is so put together and chic. But a trench style can be more than a coat – sometimes you want to sport the look all year long, including the spring and summertime. Don’t cover up your outfit with a trench; instead, make a statement by wearing a trench dress! They are just as comfy and sophisticated as the classic, but you won’t have to worry about linings or the intimidation of sewing a jacket. Sleeveless or not, with slits or belted – there are so many ways to customize your trench dress for the season. Just ask Meghan Markle; she is often seen spotted in a trench-style dress. DRESS/JACKET PATTERN Opt for a midi, double-breasted style pattern that is either long-…

SPLIT SEAM A split seam is nothing to fear. The repair is even easier with the use of fusible hem tape. Turn the garment wrong side out. Identify the split seam location, making sure that only the thread is torn. Press the seam flat. Remove any loose thread; pin (1). Select a stitch length shorter than the original for a more secure repair. Thread the machine with matching thread. Measure the garment seam allowance. Begin stitching 1/2” before the end of the original stitching, making sure to align the new stitching with the original. End the stitching 1/2” beyond the original stitching. Backstitch at the beginning and end (2). Trim the thread tails, and then press open the seam. If desired, apply fusible seam tape to the seam allowance edges…

SUPPLIES • Three size L readymade coordinating men’s button-up shirts (A, B & C) • Lounge shorts pattern (such as Drawstring Lounge Shorts by Caroline Hulse for Sew Daily; see “Sources.”) • Woven tank top pattern (such as Remmel Tank by Kimberly Payne of Straight Stitch Designs for Sew News; see “Sources.”) • All-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Serger (optional) PREPARE Prewash and dry the shirts. Button shirt A and position on a flat work surface with the shirt front facing up. Remove each sleeve along the armscye seamline and the collar along the neckline seamline. Cut along each shoulder seamline and side seam to separate the shirt front and back. Repeat to prepare shirt B and C. Unbutton shirt B and C. Fold the shirt-A front in…

SUPPLIES • 1/4 yard each of water-resistant canvas & heavyweight duck cloth (lining) • 3 yards of 2”-wide webbing • Matching all-purpose thread • Three 2”-wide plastic tri-glide slide adjusters (See “Sources.”) • 2”-wide plastic side-release buckle (See “Sources.”) • 10” regular metal zipper • Removable fabric marker • Zipper foot • Lighter (optional) CUT Download the Buckle Up Bag pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies for free until August 31, 2021. Purchase the pattern at sewdaily.com after the expiration date. Print out the pattern, and then cut out. From the canvas, cut two main panels, one pocket, two zipper panels and one gusset. From the lining, cut two main panels, two pockets, two zipper panels and one gusset. From the webbing, cut one 21” length for the gusset, one 8 1/2” length…

SUPPLIES • Semi-fitted button-up blouse pattern (such as Natalie by Colette Patterns; see “Source.”) • Woven print fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus extra yardage depending on desired skirt measurements) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Elastic • Removable fabric marker Note: Select a semi-fitted blouse pattern with princess seams, darts or dartless that’s loose enough to pull on and off over your head. In addition, make sure the blouse fits you at and above the bust. ALTER Trace a copy of the front and back bodice patterns. If the pattern has front facings, trace a copy onto new pattern paper. Try on a muslin-fitting sample or the pinned pattern tissue of the bodice. Tie a piece of elastic around your waistline at the…

GET STARTED Measure and record based on the descriptions outlined below and tips from the Sew News Spring issue. Download the sheet from sewdaily.com/go/Snfreebies and record your measurements. UPPER BODY 1. Shoulder length: Measure from your shoulder neck point to your shoulder point. The shoulder neck point is usually where a necklace would fall on your shoulder. You can usually see this along the crew neckline of a T-shirt. 2. Shoulder width, front: Measure across the front of your shoulders. Start from one shoulder seam (where the seamline is on your shirt) and measure to the other shoulder seam across the front of your upper chest. The tape should be right below your clavicle bone and parallel to the floor. 3. Shoulder width, back: Measure across the back from one…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com now through July 31, 2021 to get the Oso Tank pattern and video sew-along course free. Then sew this slightly-fitted summer tank with us! In addition to the free pattern and video, you’ll be automatically entered to win a new sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking when you register. THE PATTERN With a fitted silhouette via princess seaming on the front bodice and an invisible zipper closure, the Oso Tank is the epitome of chic summer style. With wide straps for ample coverage, this slightly cropped tank pairs perfectly with a tiered skirt or, our favorite, elastic-waist linen pants for a balanced look that is surprisingly sophisticated. The pattern includes sizes 0-34 and stitches up perfectly in a wide variety of wovens. Find the…

1. Just like sewing mistakes are temporary, these sewing themed tattoos are, too – and a lot less painful to remove than using a stitch ripper. Show your devotion as a maker with these Off The Bias Temporary Tattoos featuring edgy designs from illustrator Samarra Khaja. The pack includes 34 uniquely beautiful tattoos in multiple colors designed to layer and wear together. So even with nothing on, you will be sporting something to remind you of a me-made! Makes a great gift to your creator friends, too. ctpub.com 2. Rulers are just as important as thread in a sewist’s studio, and the Dritz Design Ruler Trio is an ideal starting place for newcomers to the world of pattern alterations and modifications. Rulers don’t always have to mean fit adjustments (even…

Sew News: What inspires you to sew? Michael Gardner: My mission is to help my daughter Ava build her self-esteem and establish confidence in herself and her abilities. I sew the clothes and she models. I started sewing by thrifting women's clothing and refashioning the clothes for Ava. I learned through trial and error, watched tutorials on YouTube and Pinterest and just started creating. My work is self-drafted; it is the process that has worked for me. However, within the last year, I have learned to use commercial patterns. I appreciate the ability to create a garment that began as an idea in my thoughts and seeing the piece walk the streets either on myself or Ava is an amazing feeling. Being a father is my most important responsibility and…

DYED COASTERS Learn how to overdye vintage bed sheets to create cute coasters that double as cocktail napkins. tip  Overdyeing is the process of dying fabric a second time over the original fabric to create color and depth, especially on print fabrics. SUPPLIES • Four 6” squares each of bed sheet (A & B) • Fabric dye • All-purpose thread CONSTRUCT Use 1/4” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Dye all or some of the fabric squares according to the fabric dye instructions as desired. The featured coasters are separately dyed yellow, orange and brown on floral print fabric to create color variations. tip  If desired, dye portions of the bed sheet or the entire sheet before cutting for a project. Once the fabric is completely dry, press flat. Position one…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pair of earrings. • Two 3”x5” rectangles of woven print fabric • Two 30mm-diameter hoop earrings (See “Source.”) • Matching all-purpose thread CONSTRUCT Double-fold each rectangle short edge 1/4” toward the wrong side; press. Stitch close to each first fold. Fold each rectangle in half lengthwise with right sides together; press. Designate the long raw edge as the upper edge. Stitch each rectangle upper edge using a 1/4” seam allowance. Turn each rectangle right side out; press flat. Topstitch each rectangle upper edge using a 1/8” seam allowance and making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Select a basting stitch on the machine. To create the earring casing, stitch each rectangle upper edge using a 3/8” seam allowance and leaving…

SUPPLIES • Wide-leg woven pants (such as Pagosa Pants by Kimberly Payne of Straight Stitch Designs for Sew News; “see Sources.”) • White linen fabric & notions (according to pattern requirements; “see Sources.”) • Coordinating linen fabric scraps (at least 6”x12”; amount according to measurements) • All-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Rotary cutting system • Pattern weights • Large safety pin • Serger (optional) tip  Combine coordinating Ankara print fabric within the pieced linen panel for added dimension. PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all the pattern markings. Position the front and back pants pattern on a…

SUPPLIES • One-shoulder swimsuit pattern (such as the Salida Swimsuit by Kimberly Payne of Straight Stitch Designs for Sew News) • Swimsuit fabric & lining (according to pattern guidesheet) • 3 yards of swimsuit elastic (plus additional as the hack requires) • Pattern tracing paper • Serger (optional) SOLID SALIDA DRAFT Mark the seam allowance on the three front pattern pieces (1). Trim off the seam allowance along the bottom of the middle and top pieces; this will help when lining up the seam allowance markings. Using the seam allowance as a guide, place the three pieces together, matching the seam allowance lines and tape in place (2). CONSTRUCT With the front now a single pattern piece, follow the sewing instructions to construct the swimsuit. TWO-PIECE SALIDA DRAFT Start by…

Have you heard the new craze in the sewing world? Some sewists and designers are using a projector to project a PDF pattern right onto fabric for cutting, with no printing or assembling a paper pattern first. Do projectors work and are they worth it? Just like with PDF patterns, there are some pros and cons as well as technical considerations to take into account. I’ll be the first to admit I was very skeptical of using a projector. I could see the value as a pattern designer: I print and assemble at least a half dozen times while I’m developing a pattern. That’s a lot of paper and tape and time I could save. However, how workable is the process for someone who casually sews? Every sewist's setup will…

Find out about the talented experts featured in this issue, and visit their websites to learn even more. RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal” – page 22) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com NATASHA HENRY (“Sew Organized” – page 82) is a sewing blogger and YouTuber based in the DMV Area. Natasha learned how to sew in 2013 through online classes and blogs in an effort to replace a wardrobe that was too large after significant weight loss. She is inspired to sew clothes that fit her…