Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2022 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Bring on spring! And all the pattern hacking! That’s right: This issue is dedicated to pattern hacking. Because what is sewing, if not a chance to make your garments 100% custom ... and 100% you. No matter where you are in your hacking journey (isn’t everything a journey these days?), we’ve got something for you in this issue. Start simple, then add in difficulty as your skills improve. • Add special lace godets to the sleeve of a favorite blouse pattern on page 49. • Make the most of a favorite camp shirt pattern with three totally different looks on page 44. • Customize a favorite knit jumpsuit with dramatic flared legs with Bandana Bonanza on page 60. • Create a button placket on a romantic fitted blouse;…

Want to learn more about pattern hacking? Continue your journey online, with us! Scan the QR code to head to www.sewdaily.com for inspiration, how-tos, and full hack tutorials for some of your favorite independent patterns. Shell Chic If you have the Antero Shell by Sew News already, or another boxy woven tee pattern, check out the Style Revive: Antero Shell Hacks video and follow along as Meg hacks this top into a wrap, a dress, ruffle sleeves, a blocked tank, and more! Want to do even more with this pattern? Piece the front and back with coordinating scraps. Amanda shows you how! Blouse Power The Up in Arms Blouse by Sew News is another fan favorite pattern! On the blog, you’ll find info on how to hack this pattern seven…

Tucks are folds that are straight stitched in place along the entire fold. They range in size from large 1"-wide tucks to small 1/8"-wide tucks. To create a tuck, determine the desired tuck width, and then double the width; record. Draw two lines according to the recorded tuck width measurement on the fabric right side to create the stitching lines. Fold the fabric with wrong sides together, matching the stitching lines; pin, and then stitch. Repeat to create additional tucks, spacing them as desired. Press all the tucks in one direction. To create pintucks, use a pintuck foot. It has multiple grooves on the foot wrong side to create evenly spaced pintucks. Install a twin needle onto the machine. Thread the needles with fine thread, and then select a straight…

SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting woven blouse pattern (such as the Margo Blouse by Blue Dot Patterns) • 54"-wide light- or mediumweight woven fabric (such as linen or chambray; amount according to the altered pattern measurements) • Lightweight fusible interfacing (amount according to the altered pattern measurements) • 3/8"- or 1/2"-diameter buttons (amount according to the altered pattern measurements) • All-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Serger (optional) ALTER Trace a copy of the blouse pattern. Position the front-bodice pattern right side on a flat work surface. Measure and mark 4" and 12" from the bodice upper edge along the center front. Draw a horizontal line from each mark and perpendicular to the center front. Cut along each horizontal line. Label the upper piece “Front Bodice,” the center piece “Front…

Learn how to determine if leather needs to be prepared to accept paint. • Apply leather paint to a leather scrap selected for the finished project. Once the paint is dry, bend and manipulate the leather to check the pain adhesion. If the paint doesn’t chip or crack, the leather can be used without applying a preparer and deglazer product. If the paint chips or cracks, treat the leather with a preparer and deglazer product or select a different leather without a finish. • To prep leather using a preparer and deglazer product, apply the product to a leather scrap selected for the finished project. The product removes the leather finish that prevents paint absorption. Decorative treatments, such as a metallic finish, may be removed with the product. If the…

SUPPLIES • Readymade plain baseball hat (see “Sources”) • 81/2" × 11" sheet of paper-release adhesive fabric-like water-soluble stabilizer (see “Sources”) • Hand embroidery needle • Embroidery floss • Printer paper PREPARE Download the floral design template from www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Print out the stitch guides on regular paper. Print the design template onto the stabilizer sheet according to the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure to print at 100% scale. Cut out the template 1" from the design perimeter. Remove the paper from the stabilizer. Position the template over the hat as desired; finger-press to secure. CONSTRUCT Hand embroider the hat according to the stitch diagrams at right and on page 54. If needed, refer to page 55 for hand embroidery stitch instructions. Carefully cut away the excess stabilizer from the design. Remove…

SUPPLIES • Sleeveless loose-fitting knit jumpsuit pattern (such as the Moonstone Jumpsuit by Sew News) • Mediumweight knit fabric (amount according to the altered pattern measurements) • Lightweight fusible interfacing (amount according to the altered pattern measurements) • 11/2"-wide elastic (amount according to measurements) • Ballpoint needle • All-purpose thread • Elastic • Pattern or tracing paper • Serger (optional) ALTER Trace a copy of the jumpsuit pattern, removing any existing pocket pieces. Tape the front-pants pattern right side up over a large piece of pattern or tracing paper. Measure the side-seam length; record as the front side-seam measurement. Draw a horizontal line 23" from and perpendicular to the side-seam/ upper-edge intersection; label the line endpoint “A.” Draw a curved line from point A to the side-seam/lower-edge intersection, following the…

SUPPLIES • Woven cotton fabric (exterior; amount according to measurements) • Coordinating woven cotton fabric (lining) & fusible interfacing (amount according to measurements) • Glue-in or sew-in clasp purse frame (see “Sources”) • Pattern or tracing paper • Removable fabric marker • Matching all-purpose thread • Craft glue (see “Sources”) • Needle-nose pliers • Twine (optional) • Upholstery thread (optional) DRAFT On a piece of pattern paper, draw a vertical line centered within the paper. Draw a horizontal line centered along the vertical line. Center the purse frame over the lines, aligning the frame hinges along the horizontal line. Trace the frame outer edge (1). Measure and mark 1/4" to the right of the right frame hinge along the horizontal line; label point “A.” Draw the desired line shape and…

Working in half-scale tests your accuracy on cutting patterns and matching pieces because even being 1/8" off means you’ve possibly added an inch to a waist in full scale. Some elements can’t change scale or won’t need to. For instance, our Ringmistress pattern calls for 11mm buttons. In full scale, you would use the same size, not 22mm. The number of buttons would double instead. The scale of prints and lace motifs will look different from half to full scale, something to keep in mind if you are planning lace or beaded embroidery.…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com through April 30, 2022, to get the Frisco Skirt pattern and video sew-along course free of charge. And then sew the perfect spring skirt with us! THE PATTERN The Frisco Skirt will get you in the mood for spring sewing! With an angle button placket and paneling, the Frisco combines the breezy style of a button-up skirt with the comfort of an elastic waist skirt at the back. Available in sizes 0–34, the Frisco Skirt sews up well in a wide variety of fabrics, from drapey rayons to structured cottons and linens. Find the Frisco Skirt pattern at www.sewdaily.com after April 30, 2022. Nothing says refined ease quite like a button-up skirt. The Frisco Skirt provides all that and more, with chic panels…

Rachael Gilbert-Burns lives in Cumbria with her husband and two children. She is a software engineer for museums and cultural institutions and brings her technical skills from her day job into her sewing practice. Rachael loves the minimalist aesthetic and strives to learn more about fitting and sewing technique with each garment she produces. She enjoys testing new technology and uses a projector beamed onto her cutting table for her pattern cutting and digitizing. Rachael also uses vector software for her pattern adjustments and hacking and documents her process. Very much a community-oriented maker, Rachael loves to contribute and facilitate conversations around all things making. Sew News: What’s your favorite way to decompress? Rachael Gilbert-Burns: I like to decompress by taking a walk in nature and collecting the things I…

Sew News: What do you love most about sewing? Scorpio: The freedom that it brings. As the famous painter Bob Ross once said (in reference to when he’s painting), “This is the only place where you have all the power.” When I’m sewing, it’s just me and Buttercup (my sewing machine). I can create whatever, I can be whatever . . . I’m in total control. Sewing is honestly the most therapeutic activity I’ve experienced. When I’m mad, I go sew and it brightens my mood. When I’m sad, sewing makes me happy again. When I’m anxious, it mellows me out. When I’m bored, sewing fulfills me and occupies time. Sewing is my ultimate answer for everything. SN: Who has been influential in your sewing journey? S: Mimi G and…

SUPPLIES • Tunic pattern with front and back yoke (such as Vail Dress by Pattern Fantastique) • Woven-cotton striped fabric (amount according to pattern envelope) • Matching all-purpose thread • Fabric glue stick • Small skein of yarn • Two skeins of 6-strand embroidery floss or one spool of 12 wt. embroidery thread • Hand embroidery needle PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. From the fabric, cut the pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions, but omitting the front and back yoke. On the fabric, trace the front and back yoke perimeter, leaving approximately 4" beyond the pattern perimeter; cut out (1).…

SIDE SLIT Add a subtle, yet exciting detail to a basic button-up shirt with side slits at the hem. SUPPLIES • Button-up shirt pattern with short sleeves & collar (such as Clear Creek Camp Shirt by Sew News) • Woven fabric (amount according to measurements) • Interfacing & notions (according to the pattern envelope) • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Serger (optional) DRAFT Cut out all pattern pieces in the desired size. Trace a copy of the front bodice, back bodice and front facing. Tape the front-bodice pattern lower edge onto a piece of pattern paper. Extend the bodice lower edge 5"; cut out. Repeat to extend the back bodice and front-facing lower edges. Transfer the front-facing pattern notch to the front-bodice pattern…

SUPPLIES • Knit blouse with raglan sleeves (such as Adrienne Blouse by Friday Pattern Company) • Stable knit fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus extra based on pattern measurements) • Lightweight fusible knit interfacing (amount according to pattern measurements) • 1 yard of elastic beading cord (see “Sources”) • Ballpoint needle • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Removable fabric marker • Six 5/8"-diameter shank buttons • Serger (optional) ALTER Trace the front-bodice pattern onto new pattern or tracing paper. Add a 1/2" seam allowance to the center front; cut out. CUT From the knit fabric, cut four front bodices and four back bodices. Designate two front bodices and two back bodices as the lining. From the remaining knit fabric, cut the remaining pattern pieces excluding…

OFF-THE-SHOULDER RUFFLE TOP With a little elastic and one yard of fabric, you can create this springy top with a flirty flounce. SUPPLIES • 1 yard of linen fabric (or other mediumweight woven fabric) OR a combination of ¾ yard of printed floral fabric with ¼ yard of coordinating solid fabric (for the ruffle) • 11/2 yards of 3/8"-wide elastic • Size 80/12 sewing machine needle • Matching all-purpose thread • Fabric marker • Ruler • Rotary cutting system (optional) • Serger (optional) PREPARE Fold the fabric wrong sides together with the selvages together. Using a ruler and fabric marker, mark all the pieces and notches according to the diagram (1). Note: The wider the fabric, the more voluminous the top and ruffles. Cut out pattern pieces, and mark notches.…

DRESS PATTERN Opt for a billowing dress silhouette with voluminous sleeves and gathers. You can easily draft the belt portion yourself and/or add volume to an existing dress pattern. FINAL TOUCHES Ground the look for spring with tall brown boots to magnify the neon fabric. You can also carry the neon-ness into the accessories with a matching purse or clutch! Lastly, throw on some retro shades, not just because the sun is out for spring but because this whole look is nice and bright. FABRIC COLOR PALETTE Plastic makes perfect for this style! Choose a coated fabric to get that high-end sheen or consider a naturally shiny fabric like satin. Lightweight pleathers and nylon fabrics will also work well for this trend. Tip: Neon green not your thing? Try sewing…

Scorpio is a men’s fashion designer with Sins of Many, a brand he created three years ago when he started sewing. Scorpio began sewing because, as a former collegiate athlete, he found that commercial brands didn’t fit him adequately, and he was spending more money getting his clothes tailored than he was spending on the actual clothes. Something had to change, so he tapped into his creative side and started to learn to make his own clothes. His brand, Sins of Many, is about full functionality for men of all shapes and sizes while maintaining a clean, comfortable and modern aesthetic.…

SUPPLIES • Simple backpack pattern (such as Classic Canvas Pack for Sew It All; see “Sources”) • Readymade leather jacket (size according to pattern measurements) • Coordinating home-décor fabric & medium- or heavyweight fusible interfacing (amount according to pattern envelope) • Notions (according to pattern envelope) • Assorted acrylic leather paints (see “Sources”) • Assorted size paint brushes • Matching all-purpose thread • Size 100/16 leather needle • Rotary cutting system • Leather preparer and deglazer (optional; see “Sources”) • Walking foot (optional) PREPARE Using a damp cloth, wipe away any dirt or stains from the leather jacket. Allow to fully air dry. From the leather jacket, cut two main panels and one flap using a rotary cutting system (1). If desired, position pattern pieces over existing garment pockets, stitching…

SUPPLIES • Knit T-shirt pattern with 3/4 sleeves (such as Montlake by Straight Stitch Designs) • Light- to mediumweight sweater knit (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard) • 1/2 yard of woven lace • All-purpose thread • Straight ruler • Pattern or tracing paper • Removable fabric marker • Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. DRAFT Trace the sleeve pattern onto new pattern or tracing paper. If the pattern is not cut on the fold, fold in half lengthwise before tracing. Add seam allowance to the centerline based on the chosen pattern…

SUPPLIES • 21/2 yards of 45"-wide lightweight drapey fabric (such as rayon, challis, light linen or cotton lawn) • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Matching all-purpose thread • Four 1"-diameter buttons • Two 3/8"-diameter buttons (optional) • Hand sewing needle CUT Download the Walkabout Tunic from www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until April 30, 2022. Purchase the pattern at www.sewdaily.com after the expiration date; print. Determine the correct size based on the chart. From the blouse fabric, cut one back pair, one front pair, two pockets (optional), two sleeves, one front facing pair and one back facing. Transfer all pattern markings onto the fabric wrong side. For the optional button tab, cut two 2 1/4" × 7" rectangles from the blouse fabric. CONSTRUCT Use ½" seam allowances, unless otherwise noted. From the interfacing, cut 3/4"-wide…

FABRIC BUTTON LOOPS • From the knit fabric, cut one 2" × 12" strip. • Fold the strip in half lengthwise with right sides together; pin. Stitch the long raw edge. Turn the strip right side out; press. • Cut the strip into six 2" lengths. • Use the strips the same as the beading-cord button loops in the project instructions. SIDE TIES • From the knit fabric, cut two 4" × 35" strips. • Fold one strip in half lengthwise with right sides together; pin. Stitch the long raw edge and one short edge. Turn the strip right side out; press. Designate as a tie. • Repeat to stitch the remaining strip. • Position one tie raw short edge 2" below the front-bodice side seam pattern marking with right…

Supplies • Brightly colored, sturdy cotton fabric • Cotton cording or sturdy ribbon • Thread • Glue or fray check Instructions 1. Cut your fabric to 13" × 31". 2. Lay your fabric right side down on the ironing board. Fold one of the 13" fabric edges toward the wrong side by ¼" and press. Fold 1" and press again. Repeat on the other 13" edge, creating the drawstring casing. 3. Topstitch along the fold to secure the casing to the bag. Repeat for remaining edge. 4. Fold the bag in half, right sides together. Pin and then stitch the side seams using a ¼" seam allowance, stopping at the casing. 5. Cut two 32" pieces of ribbon or cording. Put a safety pin through the ribbon or cord. 6.…