Indholdsfortegnelse for Issue 17 i Simply Sewing

As the fourth series of the Great British Sewing Bee returns to our screens, there’s no denying that more people than ever want to learn how to sew. So what better place to start than here? Every month we bring our readers technical know-how, inspiring features, collectible patterns, contemporary refashion projects and a whole host of makes for your home, too. You’ll never be lost for inspiration... and we’re only just getting started. Say hello to a summer of sewing! Join us using # simplysewingmag…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 135x112cm (53x44in) Appliqué fabrics: 30x45cm (12x18in) each, four different fabrics Curtain lining: 135x112cm (53x44in), see instructions for details Bondaweb: 120x44cm (48x112in) High density foam: 40x40x40cm (16x16x16in) Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Coastline by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Main fabric: Trade Winds, Port. Ref: AGFCTL49906. Appliqué fabric: Buoyant, Fog. Ref: AGFCTL49901; Buoyant, Vista. Ref: AGFCTL59901; Trade Winds, Harbor. Ref: AGFCTL59906; Sailcloth, Sunset. AGFCTL59902. NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the fish template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the main fabric into six pieces, each measuring 43x43cm (17x17in). Step two If you are using a dress-weight fabric as we did, you…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: see instructions • Piping cord: see instructions • Lightweight iron on interfacing: see instructions for details • Foam: 3cm (1¼in) deep • Cotton rope: 12mm (½in) diameter • Curtain eyelet rings: chrome • Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Coastline by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Conchology, dune Ref: AGFCTL59909 NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. MEASURING UP Step one Measure the diameter of your stool top then add 3cm (1¼in) to this for the seam allowances. Draw a circle to this diameter and cut it out to make a pattern for the stool top. Step two To calculate the depth of the stool cover side, add together the depth of the foam;…

The first pattern in Simply Sewing’s brand new Cotton + Chalk (www.cottonandchalk.com) collection, The Rosie Dress is a style you’ll want to make again and again thanks to its flattering fit and versatile design. The Rosie Dress can be sewn up with or without gathered sleeves, in an easy-to-wear midi or knee length, and with an optional decorative shank button detail. The pattern’s step-by-step instructions will take you through key sewing skills such as stitching neat darts, sewing even gathers at the bust, waistline and shoulders (see our top tip on page 10, too!) and constructing a fitted V-neck bodice, as well as inserting set-in sleeves and an invisible zip fastening. It can be made in a wide variety of fabrics, from medium-weight cotton and chambray to drapey viscose, in…

The McCall’s Pattern Company is celebrating vintage style with its Big Vintage Sew-along pattern edit in aid of The Eve Appeal. To get involved, simply choose a pattern from the edit and share a snap of your finished garment using #bvsewalong. Will you channel Mad Men’s Joan Holloway with the Retro Butterick 5813 (pictured), steal 1930s style with the McCalls 7053 blouse, or sew the 1960s with the Vogue 9082 dress and jacket? See the full pattern edit and get inspired by sewing bloggers’ makes at www.vintagesewalong.co.uk…

“The Armed Forces may have helped to condition me, as I felt quite at ease with the time restraints.” Getting used to the camera crew happens incredibly quickly, although I openly admit that on week one the reality of there being 30-odd people on the other side of the sewing room watching your every move was very strange indeed. Pretty soon you become so used to the filming crew that they just seem like part of the furniture – one that comes running up as soon as you make a mistake! I don’t think anyone really deals with the time limits – it just goes by so quickly. The challenges are designed in such a way as to keep you under pressure, but just the slightest slip up can add…

Esme’s impressive collection of jewellery, which attracted the magpies on the Simply Sewing team! One contestant sewing the gusset in entirely the wrong place during the babygrow challenge. The Great British Sewing Bee’s youngest ever contestant – aged just 18. A coverstitch machine making a daunting appearance. A sportswear challenge featuring four-way stretch Lycra. The 1960s week (which we heartily approve of!) to celebrate the ‘golden age’ of sewing and fashion. Patrick’s facial hair – the moustache he sported in last year’s series caused quite a stir on social media!…

YOU WILL NEED FOR THE SUNDRESS Main dress fabric: light to medium weight cotton, pale blue, 65x114cm (26x44in) Cotton fabric for bottom wave: dark blue, 10x114cm (4x44in) Cotton fabric for top wave: medium blue, 10x114cm (4x44in) Contrast plain or patterned fabrics: for the boat pocket, sails and bird Bondaweb: 60cm (24in) Elastic: 1cm (3/8in) width x 50cm (20in) Basic sewing kit FOR THE HAT Main fabric: light to medium weight cotton, pale blue, 30x114cm (12x44in) Inner fabric: 30x114cm (12x44in) Fabric scraps for bias binding trim Ribbon for loop: 0.5x6cm (3/8x23/8in) Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance for the dress and 5mm (¼in) for the hat. MAKING…

Sewing a three-dimensional filled shape, be it a plushie toy, handy pincushion or something decorative for the home, requires many of the same skills and techniques as other craft projects – taking measurements accurately, careful cutting out and neat sewing both on your machine and by hand will ensure you achieve a quality finish. There are many different types of fillings you can use to stuff your shape depending on what you are making – often adding a combination of filling varieties is the best way to create a firmly stuffed shape. See our workshop overleaf for our guide to to creating a filled shape, then make your own dog-shaped pincushion with our tutorial.…

YOU WILL NEED For both the kimono and the bloomers: Main fabric: 120x112cm (47x44in) Waistband elastic: 1cm (3/8in) width x 40cm (16in) Leg elastic: 3mm (1/8in) width x 40cm (16in) Press fasteners: 1 pair, 1cm (3/8in) Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. SUGGESTED FABRICS As these are for newborns, use soft, breathable fabric like cotton and linen. FINISHED SIZE KIMONO: Sleeve to sleeve: 37cm (14½in) Chest: 40cm (16in) Length: 26cm (10 ½in) BLOOMERS: Waist: 38cm (15in) Hips: 51cm (20in) Height: 18cm (7in) Leg openings: 19cm (7½in) MAKING THE KIMONO BACK PATTERN Step one Draw a 30x20cm (12x8in) rectangle. On the right vertical line, measure 11.5cm (4½in) down from the top, then draw another perpendicular line extending to the left measuring 7.5cm (3in).…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

SANAE ISHIDA Seattle-based Sanae Ishida writes, sews, draws and takes photographs almost every day. Find her tutorial for a baby bloomers and kimono top set from her new book, Sewing Happiness: A Year of Simple Projects for Living Well, on page 86. ESME YOUNG Esme Young, who joins Patrick Grant as a judge on The Great British Sewing Bee series four, is a costumier, designer and pattern-cutting tutor. Esme reveals what it was like to work alongside Patrick and shares her top sewing tips on page 11. JAIME JENNINGS & AMBER CORCORAN Jaime Jennings and Amber Corcoran run Fancy Tiger Crafts, a craft shop and online store based in Denver, Colorado. The friends share how they’ve taken their business from strength to strength while maintaining a work-life balance on page…

MINI MAKERS Laura Minter and Tia Williams (GMC Publications, £14.99) All of the projects in this book have been designed to get parents and children crafting together, encouraging imaginative play and developing skills with clear step-by-step tutorials. www.thegmcgroup.com LEATHERCRAFT (GMC Publications, £9.98) This book takes the fear out of sewing with leather with makes perfect for beginners, from smaller items like a key fob and necklace, to everyday leather items like bags and purses. www.thegmcgroup.com BY THE BUNDLE Emma Jean Jensen (Lucky Spool Media, £17.99) If you’ve got an impressive stash of fabric bundles waiting to be sewn up into something beautiful, let Australian designer Emma Jean Jensen inspire you with this book of 12 quilting patterns to try. www.luckyspool.com FAVORITE FABRIC BOWLS BOXES & VASES Linda Johansen (C&T Publishing,…

BEACH HUT BUNTING Celebrate the quintessential British charm of the classic beach hut with colourful fabric hut bunting decorated with appliqué detailing. HANGING FISH DECORATIONS Stitch a shoal of fishy friends to give as gifts, add to a keyring or use as hanging decorations. They’re made in two sizes using three prints sewn together so are ideal for using up fabric offcuts. DOORSTOP When the sun is shining we want to get out in the garden pronto, especially when it comes to alfresco dining! Make it easy to come and go with snacks and drinks with this doorstop filled with weighty play sand and soft toy filling. CUBE SEAT Make sure everyone has a place to sit at your next get-together with this soft fabric-covered cube. It’s appliquéd with a…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) Contrast fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) Curtain lining: 50x112cm (20x44in) Cotton rope: white, 12mm (½in) diameter x 150cm (60in) 6 eyelets: silver, 14mm (5/8in) diameter hole Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Coastline by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Main fabric: Trade Winds, Port. Ref: AGFCTL49906. Contrast fabric: Buoyant, Fog. Ref: AGFCTL49901. NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut out a 23cm (91/8in) diameter circle from paper to make the base template. Step two Cut the main fabric as follows: Outer base: one circle using the template. Outer body: 36x72cm (141/8x283/8in). Strap binding: 7x7cm (2¾x2¾in). Step three Cut the contrast fabric as follows: Outer eyelet band: 10x72cm (4x283/8in). Lining base:…

ON THE DECK Get instant vintage glamour with red sunnies, £55, www.follifollie.co.uk Earn your style stripes with this roomy foldable shopper, £19, uk.accessorize.com Throw some shade in a colour-block hat, £22, www. oliverbonas.com OUT TO DINNER Go for gold with a dainty box clutch, £32, uk.accessorize.com Add subtle shine with a minimal gold bangle, £16.50, www.topshop.com Wear a matching set for a coordinated look, £7.50, www. missselfridge.com Show off the flattering V-neckline with a delicate long necklace, www.wallis.co.uk…

With so many markings to follow, sewing patterns can seem a little daunting at first, but these marks and symbols are there to help you achieve a great fit and finish on your me-made garments. Not all markings will be found on every project, as some are only used for specific details, like pleats and tucks. Markings such as cutting lines, grainlines and fold lines are used for positioning and cutting out the pattern on your fabric, while others, like the lengthen and shorten lines, are for adjusting the pattern pieces. Some markings, including notches and darts, need to be transferred onto your fabric to help you construct your garment. Here we take you through the key markings to get you started. CUTTING LINES These are the outer lines of…

If you’ve been daydreaming about going on summer adventures (we certainly have!), indulge your wanderlust with this stitched pennant flag. It’s sewn using two embroidery stitches: chain stitch and split stitch. Master both techniques with our guide on page 49, then trace the design on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue to sew your own pennant flag. Sunny days are made for exploring new places, from bustling cities to golden beaches – so, what are you waiting for? Let the adventure begin!…

YOU WILL NEED Cotton or viscose jersey fabric: 150x150cm (60x60in) Cotton stay tape: 5mm (¼ in) wide x 25cm (10in) Matching sewing thread Ballpoint needle Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the pattern pieces needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. • Stretch fabrics do not fray, so you don’t need to finish the edges. However, they could be neatened with an overlocker. If you are not overlocking, then stitch each seam twice and trim close to the second row before pressing. The Breton top is a perennial fashion item that transcends time and trends. Originally known as La Marinière, this traditional cream with navy stripe top was naval uniform for the seamen of…

YOU WILL NEED Pair of jeans: in a faded pale blue Cotton lining fabric: pale blue 20x15cm (8x6in) Contrast pocket fabric: 25x17cm (10x7in) Medium weight iron-on interfacing: 19x6cm (7½x23/8in) Bondaweb: small scrap 2oz wadding: 8x8cm (3x3in) Zip: blue, 30cm (12in) Crossbody slim strap handle: tan, 6mmx130cm (¼x51in) Magnetic snap fastening 2 D-rings: 1cm (3/8in) Bleach and protective gloves Erasable pen or pencil Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates to make this project on pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. BLEACHING YOUR JEANS Step one Cut open the legs of your jeans. Using the template as a guide, work out where you want your bag fabric to be cut and how you want your bleach design…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Double-fold bias binding: 2cm (¾in) width x 4m (4½yd) Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. FABRICS USED Sun from the Rain or Shine collection by Stephanie Thannhauser for Dashwood Studio. Available from www.purple-stitches.com Designer Jennie says: “This is a great gift for any budding young chef – it will fit a child of 3-4 years old, although it could easily be adjusted to fit an older child. I’ve used a lightweight cotton, but this will work equally well with oilcloth, too.” CUTTING OUTTHE APRON Step one Fold your fat quarter in half with wrong sides (WS) together to make a rectangle measuring 50x20cm (20x8in). Step two On the top edge opposite the fold, draw a curve starting 10cm (4in) along…

Making three-dimensional stitched items, or filled shapes, is just an extension of your other sewing skills. You need to be able to cut out fabric pieces accurately, then stitch them together and stuff the shape. Sewing neat seams and working small hand stitches, and embellishing with embroidery if preferred, is all there is to it. Follow our guide to the technique, then make your own pincushion. CUTTING PATTERN PIECES Cut out all your fabric pieces accurately before you begin. Always check your pattern first to see if it includes a seam allowance. In most cases it will be included, but if not then make sure you add your own. A seam allowance of 1.5cm (5/8in) is good for larger items but for small shapes or tight curves use a smaller…

SEAM RIPPER You’ll find this odd-looking tool invaluable for cutting through seams and removing stitches. The hook slips under the stitches while the sharp blade at the back cuts the thread. Replace it if it’s getting blunt – they’re cheap. MARKING TOOLS Tailor’s chalk and water- or air-erasable pens and pencils make pinning and tacking much easier as you can see where you’re meant to be sewing. They come in different colours to contrast with your fabric. ROTARY CUTTER If you want to get into patchwork or dressmaking, these make short work of cutting out a lot of fabric and pattern pieces. Always cut away from yourself as they are very sharp. You’ll need a cutting mat and special ruler to use these. PINS AND NEEDLES Indispensable stainless steel pins…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

SKETCHED SINGER Artist Ben Rothery sketched this sunny vintage Singer sewing machine design exclusively for The Makery. £12. www.themakery.co.uk JUST SEW Let everyone know what your priorities are with this design from Of Life and Lemons. £14.50. www.oflifeand  lemons.co.uk NO DRAMA Forget the stresses of the day with this printable artwork. Use SIMPLYSEWING for 25% off (ends 31st May). Approx £2.74. www.zinnia  pea.etsy.com MATERIAL GIRL Be loud and proud about your fabric obsession with this statement print in pastel hues. £12. www.littletea  wagon.etsy.com ALL GOOD THINGS This fun print would make a lovely gift for a maker friend (if you can bear to part with it, that is!). £12. www.sewcrafty  online.co.uk…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 30x112cm (12x44in) Roof fabric: 25x35cm (10x14in) Door fabric: 15x8cm (6x3in) Lifebelt and bunting fabrics: small scraps Bondaweb, 20x20cm (8x8in) 2oz wadding: 15x35cm (6x14in) Soft toy stuffing Play sand and thick plastic bag Wooden button Rope: white, 30cm (12in) Twine, scrap Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Coastline by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Trade Winds, Port. Ref: AGFCTL49906; Trade Winds, Harbor. Ref: AGFCTL59906; Buoyant, Fog. Ref: AGFCTL49901; Buoyant, Vista. Ref: AGFCTL59901; Sailcloth, Sunset. Ref: AGFCTL59902; Conchology, Dune Ref: AGFCTL59909. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the template for the beach hut on the pull out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING THE FABRIC Step one Trace the outer line…

YOU WILL NEED FOR EACH BEACH HOUSE Main fabric: 18x28cm (7x11in) Door fabric: 10x8cm (4x3in) Small scraps of fabric to decorate Bondaweb: 10x10cm (4x4in) 2oz wadding: 18x14cm (7x6in) Wooden button Cotton tape: white, 2cm (¾in) wide x 20cm (8in) Piping cord, see instructions for details 2 Eyelets: silver Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Coastline by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Trade winds, Port. Ref: AGFCTL49906; Trade Winds, Harbor. Ref: AGFCTL59906; Buoyant, Fog. Ref: AGFCTL49901; Buoyant, Vista. Ref: AGFCTL59901; Sailcloth, Sunset. Ref: AGFCTL59902; Conchology, Dune. Ref: AGFCTL59909. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance • You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the outer lines of the beach hut template…

DRAGONFLY FABRICS www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk katie@dragonflyfabrics.co.uk Our online shop is the answer to all your sewing needs! With a wide selection of lovely dressmaking fabrics and haberdashery. We pride ourselves on our great customer service and fabric knowledge and have a swatch service, free return policy and postage from £1.50. Why not have a look and see what might inspire you! THREADS AND PATCHES www.threadsandpatches.co.uk 01908 649687 Award-winning quilt shop. Free postage on orders over £30. Threads and Patches, 15, Watling Street, Fenny Stratford, Bletchley, Milton Keynes, Bucks MK2 2BU NEW FOREST FABRICS www.newforestfabrics.co.uk customerservice@newforestfabrics.co.uk The New Forest Fabrics online store is always open and where you will find a quality range of fabrics from top design houses such as Lewis and Irene, The Henley Studios, Red Rooster, Riley Blake and Clothworks,…

Since the launch of the Great British Sewing Bee in 2013, we’ve seen the UK’s craft market shift enormously. Aficionados of this once-private pastime are now flourishing, launching new sewing businesses and sharing their skills. We believe the show has been instrumental in this development, and the winners have played a crucial role in allowing sewists to share their passion for fabrics, threads and sewing machines. The new series (watch it on BBC2) brings a fresh face to the sewing room as Esme Young joins Patrick Grant on the judging panel (read our interview with Esme on page 11). So, what does the new judge seek in a winning garment? “It’s nebulous,” she says. “You don’t know it until you see it. I look out for what I like to…

“I wasn’t very aware of the cameras most of the time, I just shut it all out and got on with sewing.” I’ve sewn all my life, but it has always seemed like a private activity, carried out quietly. When I saw the advert inviting people to apply for a television show about sewing, I thought it’s about time – thank you! I hoped it would bring sewing more into the mainstream. I wasn’t very aware of the cameras most of the time, I just shut it all out and got on with sewing. I’ve got quite a big family, so I’m used to doing my sewing with all sorts going on around me. But sometimes I’d look up and there would be a camera almost on top of my…

YOU WILL NEED 4 T-shirts Basic sewing kit Designer Jennie says: “This is the perfect spring/summer ombré maxi dress that can be tailor-made to your shape and size. You’ll need four T-shirts that increase in size down the dress. Choose a T-shirt which fits you for the bodice section, then three in increasing sizes for the skirt section of the dress.“ CUTTING THE T-SHIRTS Step one Measure from your tummy button to your feet, including your body contours. Step two Divide this measurement by 3 (for example, mine was 120cm, making each section 40cm). Step three Cut the three T-shirts that you want to use as the top, middle and bottom sections of the skirt part of the dress into tubes. The top and middle sections need to be the…

Few things make us lapse into happy daydreams as readily as the thought of running our very own craft empire. Friends and colleagues Jaime Jennings and Amber Corcoran have taken that idea and made it a reality in the beautiful city of Denver, Colorado. The opportunity to work together came about when Jaime and her then-partner Matthew Brown decided to split their business, a joint DIY crafts and clothing store, in two. “In 2008, after a couple of years of steady growth, we decided to expand the business into a second location and split the two concepts into a clothing and crafts store. I took over the crafts store and Matthew took on the clothing store and they became Fancy Tiger Crafts and Fancy Tiger Clothing.” It was at this…

YOU WILL NEED To make one whale: Plush fabric: blue, 45x50cm (18x20in) Plush fabric: white 40x50cm (16x20in) 2x12mm (½in) safety eyes: black Polyester toy filling Water erasable pen/pencil Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Blue plush fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Dusty Blue (light blue whale) or Azure (mid blue whale) White plush fabric: Cuddlesoft All fabrics from Plush Addict FINISHED SIZE Approx 38cm (15in) long. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances and the arrows indicate the pile direction. The notches are used to match up the correct pieces when you are sewing…

YOU WILL NEED Variety of wool check fabrics or faux suede. You could make yours in just one fabric if you prefer or mix and match different parts Ground walnut shells or fibrefill Tape measure tape: 25cm (10in) Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT THE PIECES Step one Trace all the templates and cut them out to use as patterns. The solid lines are cutting lines and the dotted lines are stitching lines. Step two Cut two pieces for the body, underside, ears upper and ears lining, and one should be the mirror image of the other. Step three Cut the tail on the…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

“THIS IS THE FIRST DRESS I’ve made in a long time that fits me really well – I think that’s why I love it so much. This sewing project reminded me that I need to invest time into fitting patterns before cutting into my lovely fabric. I was in a bit of a sewing rut, making only dresses that I knew I could get done in a few hours, and after trying them on I was always disappointed. I’m your classic English pear shape with small shoulders and a bottom that deserves its own postcode, so I need to alter most sewing patterns to fit me. I was invited to get involved in The McCall Pattern Company’s Big Vintage Sew-along (see page 41 for details) and chose to make the…