Indholdsfortegnelse for 63 i Simply Sewing

We can’t promise snow this month, but we can guarantee some great ‘winter warmer’ projects to keep you busy indoors at your machines. From our colour-block hoodie cover star, to our elegant midi panel skirt – smart styles and casual classics are the order of the day. Feeling a little quirky? Winter’s the perfect time for accessories – and our asymmetric star tote and twisted fabric clutch bag are both true originals. Add a sprinkling of festive magic with some last-minute Christmas makes and you’re all set, whatever the weather. What are you waiting for? Take your off scarf and mittens and get sewing! WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

TRUE BIAS’ OGDEN CAMI It seems like everyone in the online sewing community has made one of these! And it’s easy to see why: it’s  a super-simple pattern but has plenty of skills-boosting techniques for new dressmakers to try out, such as sewing a V-neckline, neat lining and spaghetti straps. Visit shop.truebias.com STEVIE TUNIC BY TILLY AND THE BUTTONS Tilly and the Buttons is known for its beginner-friendly instructions, so you’ll  be in safe hands with the Stevie. This boxy-fit style has no darts, zips or set-in sleeves to tackle – hurrah! And it can be made as a top or dress, with optional turn-back cuffs and a pretty tie or loop fastening. Visit shop.tillyandthebuttons.com SEW OVER IT’S ULTIMATE SHIFT DRESS Designed with beginners in mind, Sew Over It’s classic…

MAKING LEATHER BAGS, WALLETS, AND CASES Yasue Tsuchihira (£15.95, Stackpole Books) Learn a new skill and make a classic leather bag to pair with your handmade dresses with this book of more than 20 contemporary leather pieces to craft. From statement handbags to chic wallets, glasses cases, portfolios and more, this book includes projects for all skill levels, and all are classics you’ll keep and wear for years to come. www.searchpress.com JELLY FILLED Vanessa Goertzen (£20.99, C&T Publishing) Best-selling author of Charm School Vanessa Goertzen’s new book has 18 fabric ‘recipes’ to help you cook up everything from basic blocks to more advanced pieces using pre-cut strips. Stock up on convenient rolls of pre-cut fabric, or create your own strips from fabrics you already have, and piece triangles, log cabins,…

This issue’s cover project is the Carmen Hoodie, a fab project to test your jersey skills and make a winter staple in your own unique style. If you have sewn with jersey fabrics before you will know that they can be tricky to master. Skipped stitches, wavy seams and laddering are common occurrences when the wrong tools or techniques are used. Our expert guide will show you the correct presser feet, needles and stitch settings to use to get a flawless finish. We've also shared some simple, inexpensive tips below. COMMON PROBLEMS Sometimes your fabric and machine aren't cooperating and you won't realise that there's actually a simple solution – with the right tools sewing with jersey can be a breeze. Here are some common issues and their easy fixes……

Having spent my teenage years making the funkiest outfits for the next big night out, I soon found ways to create and adapt my own garment shapes and patterns and embellish them. I refined this with high-end couture techniques as my skills and precision developed, always keen to keep styles simple but with fun, decorative elements. I’ve always leaned towards easy silhouettes with exquisite finishes, as well as choosing and working with beautiful fabrics. "I’ve always leaned towards easy silhouettes with exquisite finishes.” Growing up in the 1970s and 80s meant freedom to experiment. My now-teen daughter, my early muse for my Wild Things brand, comments whilst watching Stranger Things about how I could possibly know what year the styling for a particular print or design detail belonged to. Fashion…

With designs based on the runways of New York, London, Paris and Milan, UK-based Trend Patterns is the name on the lips of every sewist with a passion for fashion; from paper bag waist trousers to shirt dresses, the brand offers an exciting range of trend-led patterns, letting sewists create a brand new wardrobe that even the A-list will envy. Trend Patterns was set up after director Lucy Sinnott, who spent years working in the fashion industry, noticed a gap in the market for high-end inspired patterns, and set herself the challenge of filling the void. "I LIKE TO THINK I'M BRINGING A HIGH-END AESTHETIC TO THE SEWING COMMUNITY. TREND PATTERNS IS ALWAYS GOING TO… EXCITE AND CHALLENGE SEWISTS.” “I’ve been passionate about sewing since I was 13,” Lucy says.…

After hours of meticulous dedication, there’s nothing quite like the sense of achievement you get when you’ve finished a project and take a step back to admire your own handiwork. Imagine that proud moment and then imagine it tenfold – this is the feeling that comes with seeing your own creation take centre stage. For costume designer, Susannah Buxton and costume maker, Faye Clements, it’s all part of the job. THE DESIGNER Settling down on a Sunday evening for a night in front of the television is a regular weekly occurrence for most of us, but it was a little different for Susannah Buxton while Downton Abbey was gracing our screens. The hit show, capturing life in the early 20th century, captivated audiences from 2010-2015, with six series. And, more…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Extra thick felt: 1.5m (1¾yd), 3-4mm thickness ■ Ruler ■ Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one From the felt cut: Bag outer: Two 50x50cm (20x20in) At the bottom of these squares cut out an 8x8cm (31/8x31/8in) square from each corner, this will help to create a flat bottom on the bag.01 Large pockets: Two 22x22cm (8¾x8¾in) Handles: Two 35x15cm (13¾x6in) MAKING THE OUTER POCKETS Step one We shaped our pockets into trapezoid shapes by taking the large pockets and measuring 4cm (15/8in) in from each bottom corner. We then joined the 4cm (15/8in) marks to the top corners and trimmed the excess, this creates a 16cm…

YOU WILL NEED Per coaster: ■ Linen fabric: 25x25cm (10x10in) ■ Wool felt: 13x13cm (5¼x5¼in) ■ Quilting cotton: 13x13cm (5¼x5¼in) ■ Stranded cotton in coordinating shades ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 7mm seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads TACKED HERRINGBONE STITCH Step one Start with a row of herringbone stitch on two parallel lines. It often helps to make evenly spaced marks on the lines. Come up on the lower line. Go down to the right and on the top line, then come up to the left of the point where your needle went down. This makes a diagonal stitch across the gap of the horizontal lines.01 Step two Go down to the right and on the bottom…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

"My favourite make changes with the season, my current projects and which side of the bed I got out of. However, this jacket has to be up there. It’s made from luxury surplus fabric – cashmere from ethically farmed goats in Mongolia, which was destined to be wasted. I designed a boxy jacket with overlapping front panels, one slightly longer than the other. The sleeves are a lantern shape, mid- length with deep darts from cuff to elbow. The collar is doubled and makes use of the felted edge of the fabric. I couldn’t make my mind up which front panel I preferred, so added a couple of hidden buttonholes so it can be worn with either at the front. There are welted pockets and, if you look closely, you…

KIRSTY HARTLEY Kirsty Hartley is founder of Wild Things (www. wildthingsdresses.com) a play-inspired and UK made children’s clothing brand which she sells worldwide. Sew her exclusive adult top pattern on page 40 and see what inspires her on page 44. CLAIRE-LOUISE HARDIE Claire-Louise, aka The Thrifty Stitcher, runs sewing classes in London, is a freelance costumier, and has worked as a Sewing Producer on The Great British Sewing Bee. Try her Hoodie Pattern on page 32 and find more at www.thriftystitcher.co.uk LUCY SINNOTT Trend Patterns’ founder Lucy Sinnott started making clothes aged 13. She set up her company after working in the fashion industry and noticing there was a gap in the market for high-end inspired dressmaking patterns. Read more on page 50. JO AVERY Jo Avery has been sewing…

WIN: CLOVER TOOLS BUNDLE Win an exclusive bundle of Clover sewing accessories worth £120 We’re big fans of Clover (www.clover-mfg.com) here at Simply Sewing HQ! Their nifty range of crafting accessories have helped many a sewing or stitching project come together more smoothly and speedily. We’ve teamed-up with them to put together an exclusive prize bundle that’s packed to bursting with some our favourite Clover sewing essentials. One lucky reader will win a bundle worth around £120, which includes a Clover Bias Ruler, Easy Loop Turner, Clip n Glide Bodkin, Point To Point Turner, Desk Needle Threader, Soft Touch Thread Pick, Seam Ripper, Curved Tailor’s Awl, 12mm and 6mm Bias Makers and Fork Pins. With all these handy tools in your workbox, your next project is guaranteed to be a…

EDIT THE PATTERN Editing the pattern is as simple as overlapping the pattern pieces. The plain hoodie still has a lower panel but the upper and mid sections are cut as one piece and will be referred to as the new upper section here. Step one Take the upper front hoodie pattern piece (A) and using a ruler and a pencil mark the 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance along the lower edge. Then take the mid front pattern piece (B) and mark the 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance on the upper edge. Step two Overlap the upper and mid sections, aligning the seam allowance lines. Tape in place. Step three Repeat with the upper back (E) and mid back (F) sections to create one pattern piece. CUTTING OUT Step one From the…

1 Cut along the exact grain on a flat surface and make sure your fabric isn’t hanging off of a table when cutting. 2 Straight stitches will rip out easily when the fabric is stretched. Instead, use a narrow width and length zigzag stitch or lightning stitch. 3 Sew with your seam sandwiched between two pieces of tissue paper to prevent the jersey from stretching and then tear it away afterwards. 4 Tacking first will ensure one layer of fabric doesn’t stretch as you sew. 5 Interfacing will help to prevent stretching as you sew, press 5mm (¼in) strips of bias-cut interfacing along the edges to prevent stretching. 6 Some other essential tips that are relatively inexpensive or may already be a part of your sewing kit include using ballpoint…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Patterned quilting weight cotton: 50x55cm (20x22in) ■ Mid-weight plain cotton canvas: 40x45cm (16x18in) ■ Stiff (non-fusible) interfacing: 50x40cm (19¾x16in) ■ One magnetic popper ■ Bias binding maker: 2.5cm (1in) ■ Fabric clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. MATERIALS USED In the Garden from Eden Pop by Dashwood Studio. For stockists go to dashwoodstudio.com CUTTING OUT Cut the following for the front panel: Step one From the stiff interfacing cut: Bag interfacing: 20x28cm (77/8x11in) Step two From the patterned quilting weight cotton cut: Patterned strips: Eleven 18x4cm (71/8x15/8in) Step three From the plain mid-weight cotton canvas cut: Plain strips: Seven strips 18x4cm (71/8x15/8in) Side front panel: 18x13cm (71/8x5¼in) We will cut the remaining pieces once…

1 When fitting a garment, start at the top of the body and work your way down. 2 Pad out your mannequin using wadding and cling film to match the size and body shape of the wearer. 3 Use carbon paper and a tracing wheel to mark your seam lines where possible. You can also thread trace them by using long hand stitches on the stitch lines. It makes them much easier to see and you can remove them later. 4 Leave yourself plenty of seam allowance – an inch on straight seams and half an inch on curves. 5 If you’re sewing with thick, bulky fabrics and the machine keeps sewing on the spot, place a folded piece of card behind the needle before dropping the foot. This will…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Denim: 70x140cm (28x55in) ■ Solid grey fabric: 30x112cm (12x44in) ■ Yellow fabrics: 50x50cm (20x20in) ■ Lining: 1mx112cm (39x44in) lining ■ H630 iron-on wadding: 1.1mx90cm (39x35in) ■ G740 iron-on interfacing: 30x90cm (12x36in) ■ S320 iron-on interfacing: 20x24cm (8x10in) ■ Grey metal zip: 18cm (7in) ■ Off-white plastic zip: 18cm (7in) ■ Small faux leather offcut (optional) ■ Walking foot (optional) ■ Matching sewing kit ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. MATERIALS USED Wicked Sky Solid Smooth; Denim Studio; Sandstone from the Pure Elements collection; Gold Leaf Color Master Box; Lyricist’s Diary. All by Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.o.ukAll interfacings by Vlieseline, from www. ladysewandsew.co.uk Zips from Prym, www.prym.com CUTTING OUT Step one From the denim cut: Bag front right…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Natural cotton fabric for body: 40x40cm (15x15in) ■ White fabric for dress: 36x46cm (14x18in) ■ Gold fabric for wings and petticoat: 36x46cm (14x18in) ■ Lace and ric rac trim: assortment, 1.5m (1¾yd) total ■ Pink mohair wool for hair: 25g ball ■ Piece of paper: 13x20cm (5x8in) ■ Black and dark pink stranded cotton ■ Toy filling ■ Thin elastic: 50cm (20in) ■ Iron-on interfacing: 30x30cm (12x12in) ■ Wadding: 15x20cm (6x8in) ■ Small piece of beading wire ■ Small mother of pearl buttons for halo ■ Red crayon/pastel/lipstick for cheek blush ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads ■ Use 5mm (¼in) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated. ■ Use a smaller stitch length throughout this project: 2mm is…

SEW A RAINBOW Give your winter making a bold, bright boost with these new-season styles from Simplicity, sewn up in jewel tones. And it’s not just the stunning colours that have us swooning – each pattern has fun-to-sew details galore, from S8981’s tie waist belt, to S8982’s dramatic gathered sleeves. Tempted? Browse the collection at www.sewdirect.com JUMP TO IT A dress that’s smart enough for the office but as comfy as pyjamas? Yes, it does exist! Lenaline’s Alex Dress pattern is an easy-sew, easy-wear jumper dress that can look smart or casual depending on the fabric and has all-important pockets. There’s a slouchy jumper version, too at www.lenaline.com TIME TO SHINE W Embellishments, trims, sparkles… we love them! Whether it’s adding sequins to a party frock or jazzing up a…

8 JANUARY 2020 Recreate The Pattern For Your Favourite Top/ Dress. Ray Stitch, London. Trace off your fave dress and make a pattern so you can recreate it again and again. www.raystitch.co.uk 23 JANUARY 2020 Quilt Technique: English Paper Piecing. Backstitch, Cambridge. Get scrap-busting with this English Paper Piecing workshop. www.backstitch.co.uk 25 JANUARY 2020 Learn Free Machine Embroidery. The Makery, Bath. Start the new year with a new skill and try free machine embroidery. www.themakery.co.uk 30 JANUARY -1 FEBRUARY 2020 The Creative Craft Show. EventCity, Manchester. This multi-craft event has new products, supplies and expert demos covering dressmaking and more. www.stitchandhobby.co.uk…

PEG BAG YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A: 50cm (5/8yd), for the main fabric ■ Fabric B: 25x30cm (10x12in), for the contrast fabric ■ Fabric C: 35x35cm (14x14in), for the binding ■ Wooden coat hanger ■ Paper for the templates ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED ■ The fabrics used are from the Grove range by Makower. Scenic Sky Blue. Ref: 2159-B4; Meadows Blue. Ref: 2161-B; Storm Blue. Ref: 2165-B. For stockists visit www.makoweruk.com NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■ Templates include seam allowance. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads CUTTING OUT Step one Download the templates from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads. Then print and cut out. Step two From fabric A cut: Back piece: one using the template. Front piece:…

Oh baby! There's nothing quite so enjoyable as creating custom outfits for tiny tots. Get set to send the cute factor to the max as Poppy & Jazz have just expanded their size range from newborn up to six years, with some adorable new designs, now available as paper patterns as well as PDFs. Designed to be as comfy and practical as they are cute, take your pick from their versatile staples, and ring the changes by mixing and matching knits, denim and colour-pop prints. Check out the full range at www.sewoverit.co.uk…

A new year is just around the corner – time to freshen up your wardrobe with some new spring basics. We can't think of a simpler way to get started than to rustle up a few versions of this issue's Indigo Top pattern designed by Kirsty Hartley (www.wildthingsdresses.com). Beginners will love its boxy style, and whatever your sewing experience, half the fun is going to be deciding on the fabric to use. We've included the option to add a concealed pocket as a further finishing touch and two sleeve lengths, making this suitable for all seasons. So grab your favourite fabric and let's go! YOU WILL NEED For all sizes: ■ Fabric: 1.8mx110cm (2ydx43in); 1.4mx140cm (1¾ydx55in) ■ Fine cotton fabric or interfacing: 50x50cm (20x20in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Medium weight ponte stretch fabric: 1.5m (1¾yd) ■ Waistband elastic: 4cm (1 5/8in) wide in a length equal to your waist measurement ■ Pattern paper for pattern ■ Sewing machine/overlocker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ If you have an overlocker you can use it to finish and stitch the seams in one go. If you aren’t using an overlocker you will need to use a zigzag stitch to finish the edges of the fabric and also to stitch the seams. A straight stitch will rip out of stretch fabrics when worn. MATERIALS USED Fabric is Jacquard Jersey in Black, White and Rose Gold from Albstoffe by Hantex. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk MAKING THE…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton lawn fabric: 85x140cm (34x55in) ■ A loose-fitting top, for measuring ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like the top to be longer, or if you would like to make the top larger than a UK size 16. ■ You may find it more economical to draft the pattern first and then purchase fabric depending on the size of your pieces. CUTTING OUT You can trace your pattern onto pattern paper or directly onto the fabric. We chose to trace straight onto the fabric. However, if you would like to create a pattern for future use, trace around the template top on paper and mark…

Release your inner wild child and get ready to embrace the drama of the drape! Fabric Godmother have brought back vintage prints with their new fabric range in collaboration with The Print Pattern Archive. The three new prints have been oversized for extra impact, and the viscose crepe fabric means some fabulous extra weight and drape for your home-sewn garments. Our readers can enjoy 10% off all fabrics on their website by using code SIMPLYSEWING10, valid until 31st Dec 2019. Visit www.fabricgodmother.co.uk…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A fat quarter of three fabrics ■ Cushion pad: 18x18in (45.5x45.5cm) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ To make our QSTs (quarter square triangles) we used the square method. Using the ruler method for the QSTs will result in the bias edge of the triangle being on the outside of the block, making squaring up tricky! Using the square method will keep the diagonal bias cut edges in the centre of the block where they belong. ■ HST = Half square triangle ■ QST = Quarter square triangle FINISHED SIZE The finished cushion cover measures 18in (45.5cm) square. MAKING A QST To make a QST, you need to take the finished block measurement and add 1¼in (3cm) to it as a seam allowance.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ 50x60cm (20x24in) navy blue patterned fabric ■ 15x50cm (6x20in) pale mint green patterned fabric ■ 45x60cm (18x24in) faux fleece or faux fur ■ 20x55cm (8x22in) plain unbleached cotton ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES: ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads CUTTING OUT Step one From the navy fabric cut: Outer stocking: one using the template. Step two From the mint fabric cut: Cuff: one using the template. Loop: 6x15cm (23/8x6in). Step three From the faux fleece/fur cut: Stocking lining: one pair. Step four From the unbleached cotton cut: Heel: two pairs. Toe: two pairs. Keep the unbleached cotton pairs together and treat them as one layer of fabric. Two layers are necessary with our…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…