Indholdsfortegnelse for 64 i Simply Sewing

We’re not just welcoming in a new year, we’re beginning a new decade! There’s no doubt about it, if there ever was a good time for a fresh start, it’s now. Perhaps you’re a newbie, who’s been longing to make your own clothes, and that shiny new sewing machine for Christmas means you can. Or maybe as a more seasoned sewist, you’ve simply decided that 2020 is the year you’re finally going try a new technique. But where to begin? Here’s our advice – surround yourself with enough sewing inspiration (this issue is a great place to start) and soon you’ll be saying those magic words... “I made that!” WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

MADALYNNE SIMPLICITY PAJAMA Ruffles galore make this the classiest pj set, where comfort meets cute in crop trousers and dolman-sleeved  top. Wear this for your next box set binge – they’re so stylish they make staying in the new going out! Make it in silk or satin for extra glam. www.thefoldline.com CLOSET CASE PATTERNS CAROLYN PAJAMAS Super-neat, white piping gives an elegant finish to these classic pyjamas, highlighting the notched collar, pocket and upturns beautifully. Designed for lounging, these modern pjs are a flattering cut and would suit cotton flannel, linen, shirting or charmeuse fabric. www.thefoldline.com MCCALL’S NIGHTWEAR If you like your loungewear to be a little more structured, then you might prefer to opt for this wrap jacket in a two-piece set from McCalls. Suitable for advanced beginners, this…

VISUAL GUIDE TO CREATIVE STRAIGHT-LINE QUILTING Natalia Whiting Bonner (£20.99, C&T Publishing) You can be creative with straight lines only in quilting, and Natalia proves it with this essential guide. Containing more than 60 new patterns for triangle and square blocks, borders and more, you can learn how satisfying it is to quilt with straight lines, either using a walking foot or free-motion quilting with rulers. www.ctpub.com LEARN TO SEW IN 30 MINUTES: MACHINE SEWING Debbie von Grabler-Crozier (£12.99, Search Press) Know someone itching to learn how to sew? This could be their motivation. With 25 easy sewing projects designed to last for 30 mins each, this is a great skills and confidence builder. Ideal for getting beginners started on a project straight away. Psst! Try your hand at an…

1 PICK THE PERFECT OUTER FABRIC Picking the right material for your project might seem simple enough, but the various types of waterproof fabric available can have very different properties. Some, such as showerproof polyester and Gore-Tex, are thin, lightweight and perfectly suited for garments that need to be packed away easily, like cagoules and ponchos. Others, such as laminated cotton and oilcloth, are much thicker and suited to structured garments, like thick duffel coats and trenches. You might find that mid-weight fabrics, such as softshell or PUL (polyurethane laminate), work well for most raincoat designs. 2 CHOOSE YOUR LINING Once you’ve got your outer fabric set, you may need to pick a lining. Some projects won’t need one, in which case skip this step – but others will be…

When I opened my shop, Like Sew Amazing, my aim was to source wearable fabrics that were high quality and would stand the test of time. I mostly stock natural fibres, such as linen and cotton, as I find them more enjoyable to wear and to sew with. I wanted to enable sewists to create garments that were just as good, if not better than those available on the high street. When buying for the business, I source as sustainably and ethically as possible. I buy Oeko-Tex certified fabrics whenever I can. This means they are certified free from harmful chemicals and safe for human use. I look for organic cottons and jerseys where I can. I also stock fabrics like Tencel and Modal, which are produced more sustainably and…

1 #MeMadeMay Founded by Zoe Edwards, this hashtag is about working your own makes into your everyday wardrobe. You can even try and wear your handmade clothes for the entire month like Zoe will be! 2 #BPSewvember This photo challenge was devised by Amanda of Bimble and Pimble. Throughout November, she will post prompts on her Instagram (instagram.com/bimbleandpimble) to inspire you to share your sewing snaps. 3 #MakeNine Rochelle of Lucky Lucille (www.luckylucille.com)kicked off the Make Nine Challenge a few years ago and now it’s bigger than ever. Plan the nine projects you will be committed to make in 2020 and share them on Instagram. 4 #MakeYourStashSewing Hobbyists Kate (@timetosew) and Pilar (@pilar_ bear) joined forces for this hashtag. They encourage you to clear out the fabric and embellishments that…

This month’s cover project is the Staple Shift Dress – the dress has three sleeve options and two length options. We're sharing this easy hack to increase this pattern's possibilities even further. It will let you transform your dress into a top, and both dress or top can be sleeveless if you prefer – adding two more elements to this versatile garment. ALTERING THE PATTERN ADJUSTING THE LENGTH Step one Trace off the front and back bodice following the hem line of dresses B and C. Don’t cut these pieces out yet as it is easier to work with excess paper around your initial tracing. Step two Shorten the bodice pieces to your desired bodice length – we shortened our front bodice by 30cm (12in) and the back bodice by…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Canvas fabric 90x55cm (35x20in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. FINISHED SIZE Approx 38x40cm (15x16in) FABRIC USED Night Talks Canvas from Bloomsbury Collection by Bari J. Find your nearest stockist at www.hantex.co.uk and visit www.artgalleryfabrics.com for more inspiration and projects to sew. CUTTING OUT Step one From the canvas fabric cut: Main bag: 84x42cm (33x16½in). Straps: two 40x4cm (16x1¾in). ASSEMBLING THE BAG Step one Finish the four raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Step two Fold the canvas fabric in half with right sides (RS) together, so that it measures 42x42cm (16½x16½in). The fold will become the bottom of the bag.01 Step three Along the top edge, fold the canvas down 2.5cm…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Charcoal denim fabric 80x147cm (32x58in) ■ Orange lining fabric 1mx112cm (11/8ydx44in) ■ Wool felt squares in four colours – medium orange, light orange, red and green ■ Vlieseline S320 iron-on interfacing 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Vlieseline G740 iron-on interfacing 30x90cm (12x36in) ■ Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing 120cm (47¼in) ■ Vlieseline H630 iron-on wadding 50cm (20in) ■ Piping cord 2m (2¼yd) ■ Anorak snap fastener in gunmetal ■ Snap fastener attachment tool ■ Fabric glue ■ Matching threads ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm (¼in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads ■ We recommend using wool felt. ■ S320, G740 and H630 interfacings are by Vlieseline. Available at Lady Sew and Sew, www.ladysewand sew.co.uk MATERIALS USED ■ Outer – Wicked…

YOU WILL NEED ■ FQ quilting cotton, for the outer ■ FQ of contrasting quilting cotton, for the lining ■ Iron-on wadding 25x50cm (10x20in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ For the purposes of our demonstration, we have left out the wadding so that you can see what is happening. ■ FQ = Fat quarter = 45x56cm (18x22in). CUTTING OUT Step one From the outer fabrics cut: Pot holder outer: two 23x23cm (9x9in). Step two From the lining fabrics cut: Pot holder lining: two 23x23cm (9x9in). Step three From the iron-on wadding cut: Pot holder wadding: two 23x23cm (9x9in). Step four Press the wadding squares to the wrong side (WS) of each outer fabric piece. Trim the wadding…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

MIMI G Mimi G has grown her hobby into an international brand and her fashion, lifestyle and DIY sewing blog is award-winning. She designs for Simplicity and founded online sewing school, Sew It Academy. Find out more on page 62. SARAH MCKENNA After sewing for most of her life, Sarah built up the courage to turn her hobby into a business. Last year, she launched Like Sew Amazing fabric shop online and then she opened a high street store. Find out how she did it on page 36. DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER Debbie writes and designs for sewing magazines and websites, as well as running her own blog, where she shares her designs. Her first sewing book, The Bag Boutique, was a global success. Make her plant pot cover on page…

WIN: POPPY & JAZZ PATTERNS Win a complete set of Poppy & Jazz’s patterns for children’s wear, worth £125 We’re big fans of Sew Over It’s Poppy & Jazz kidswear patterns and, if you are too, you’ll be delighted to know this range for little ones has just got bigger. Five adorable new designs include the Willow Pinafore, a classic dress with bib bodice and pockets, the Maple Cardigan, which makes a great layering piece, Birch Trousers, great for comfy play, the Elm T-shirt, a good wardrobe staple and the Juniper gathered skirt, which has two style variations. Along with the new designs, the size range for the existing patterns has been extended, so it now covers sizes from newborn to six years. Priced at £12.50 each (or £7.50 as…

TUBS YOU WILL NEED For each tub ■ Fabric A: 50x62cm (20x25in) ■ Fabric B: 50x62cm (20x25in) ■ Style Vil foam interfacing: 50x62cm (20x25in) ■ Faux suede: 6x15cm (3x6in) ■ Chicago screws: four 5mm (¼in) ■ Heavy duty hole punch ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching sewing thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED From Okina Hana by RICO. Blue Flowers; Mustard Flowers; Pink Big Flowers; Pink Graphical Pattern. For stockists visit www.rico-design.com NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■ Use fabric clips and a walking foot if you have one. ■ Style Vil foam is by Vlieseline, available from Lady Sew and Sew www.ladysewandsew.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one Place Fabric A right side (RS) up on your work surface in landscape position. Draw a vertical line 20cm…

During the winter, my work uniform tends to revolve around thick tights and a pair of boots so I am loving wearing versatile pieces like Tilly and the Buttons’ Indigo Smock, which I like for its dipped hem and elbow length sleeves, or the Chalk & Notch Fringe Dress with its neat button-up front under big chunky cardigans. I have just ordered the May 2020 collection from Ruby Star Society and I can’t wait to get sewing with it – it has some border prints that I need in my life!…

CRAFTY SEW & SO RETREATS As well as being a go-to destination for materials, Crafty Sew & So also put on craft camps. This year they are taking place in Norfolk and Leicester. THE SEWING WEEKENDER At this weekend-long event you can expect expert talks from industry pros and hands-on workshops as well as time for making new sewist friends – and you’ll even take home an amazing goody bag of treats! SEWBRUM A meet-up in Birmingham, founded by Charlotte Powell (of English Girl at Home), which includes haberdashery shopping and swapping tips and tricks. THE SEWING RETREAT Head to a hotel retreat in Stratfordupon-Avon where you can alternate time in the swimming pool with time spent behind a sewing machine. SEWCIAL RETREAT BY PURPLE STITCHES Put a date in…

1 Always make a toile of the garment. It is much better to find out the fit is incorrect when you have used a test fabric than when it is too late! 2 A curved ruler is a great staple to add to your sewing toolkit. A good ruler will feature a long shallow curve that reaches a more severe curve at one end such as the Sew Easy French curve (£9.99, email: groves@stockistenquiries. co.uk for stockists). We also love the Clover mini curved ruler set which is great for altering smaller pattern pieces (£9.99, email: clover@stockistenquiries. co.uk for stockists). 3 Use a mechanical pencil or a very sharp pencil for pattern work. Blunt pencils will create lines that are a couple of millimetres wide which when spread over an…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cushion cover ■ Cushion pad to fit inside cover ■ Thick wool in black ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ We used an existing plain cushion cover for our embroidery however you could make a simple envelope back cushion and then embroider this for a more personalised cushion design. Follow the instructions for the plain cushion on page 34 to create your own cover. TRANSFERRING THE DESIGN Step one Look for images in books or online or design your own. Try and keep the design fairly simple and stylised. Draw onto paper with a felt tip to give you an idea of what the finished design will look like when worked in wool.01 Step two Using an erasable fabric…

If you’re looking for a new style icon to mark the start of 2020, head on over to Katie Kortman’s website and be in awe of her bravery, she’s a wow with colour and shapes. Proving that striped puffy sleeved shirts aren’t just for pirates, Katie added a cute collar to Simplicity pattern 8839 in this inspiring hack. What a difference a simple knock-out fabric choice (thanks www.measurefabric.com) can make. We thank Katie for proving that puffy sleeves are here to stay – what a way to kick off the new decade! www.katiekortman.com…

“One day, on my way to work, I saw a broken three-seater sofa in the street and thought ‘Mmm, that could be an interesting material to work with’, so I ripped away half of the back, folded it up and put it in my backpack. When I got to my desk I unfolded it and, in that moment, the idea of making a jacket crossed my mind – but I didn’t have enough leather! So I impatiently waited until my lunch break, hoping that the sofa would still be out on the street and, luckily, it was! I always try to reuse, repair and recycle whenever I can. We all know just how harmful the clothing industry has become for the environment. All of the millions of garments that we…

ECO ELEGANCE The warm colour palette of the new Atelier Brunette Tencel fabric range is just the ticket for brightening up chilly winter days. Not only are the six shades – Blush, Ochre, Chestnut, Night, Smokey and Storm – a dream to mix and match when sewn up as separates, but Tencel is an eco-friendly, non-toxic, choice to boot! For more info visit www.atelierbrunette.com IT’S A WRAP! Get your swirl on with Simplicity’s Misses’ Wrap Skirt, which can be made with woven fabrics, so there’s no need to wait until spring. With a falling from the hip yoke and side tie or button, it’s ideal for everyday wear while also making a style statement. Available from www.sewdirect.com LET’S GET BUSY W Sarah Watts, based in Atlanta, Georgia, is a designer…

13-15 FEBRUARY 2020 Enjoy heaps of workshops and craft stalls at Craft4Crafters Show, Westpoint Arena, Exeter. www.craft4crafters.co.uk 21-23 FEBRUARY 2020 Spring Quilt Festival, Harrogate – it’s the annual patchwork and quilting event. www.grosvenorshows.co.uk 27 FEBRUARY-1 MARCH 2020 The Stitch Festival (formerly The Spring Knitting & Stitching Show) is the ultimate day out! Business Design Centre, London. Psst!Use code SIMPSEW2020to get discounted tickets (£2.50 off standard advance adult/£1 off advance concessions, plus £2.20 fulfilment fee per transaction/ £2.50 for posted tickets). Valid for advanced bookings only. Must be redeemed before 23:59 on 26 February 2020. Book online at www.thestitchfestival.co.uk or call 0844 8541 349 and quote code. Full T&Cs on website.…

HIGH-NECK HOOD Essential for blustery days and surprise rainstorms, the high-neck hood with handy snap fastenings ensures you’ll stay warm, dry and cosy whatever the weather. TWO DESIGN OPTIONS Whether you want a playful raincoat or a cosy duffel, this pattern will take you through the cold winter season and into the spring with two distinct styles to choose from. CUSTOMISE THE LOOK Eden offers many different ways to customise your garment, including two different styles of pocket, optional storm flaps and both hip and long-length hems. EDEN Available both as a pattern and in kit form, we adore Tilly & The Buttons’ Eden coat. This fully-lined design features raglan sleeves and a high-neck hood to keep out the wind and two different options for practical pockets. With design choices…

Fans of tailor's chalks are going to love our bonus gift this month! Your exclusive Make Your Mark chalk pencil is, if we do say ourselves, even more of a must for every sewist's workbox. Mess-free, neat and precise to use, you'll find making pattern markings on your fabric is a total breeze with this handy tool. The white chalk will stand out brilliantly against prints and block colours – just remove with a dab of water once you no longer need the marks. All that's left is to decide which project you'll be using it on first!…

Days spent in your crafting room, with only your trusty machine as company, may be a regular and enjoyable occurrence. But in 2020 it’s time to embrace the sociable side of sewing and take your hobby on tour, whether it be physically or digitally. Across the country (in fact, the world) there are tonnes of events taking place that are highly appealing to sewing enthusiasts. Embrace your chance to learn new skills, buy new products and meet new people at these inspiring events. Or, perhaps you want to start socialising with the online crafting community? You can join in with hashtag challenges, follow sewing blogs and contribute to online forums. Let our inspirational 'sewcialists' help you plan your best sewing year yet… SEWING EVENTS Have you considered taking your sewing…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1.5mx135cm (1¾ydx53in) ■ Elastic tape: approx 3-5cm (1¼-2in) wide x your waist measurement ■ High waisted jeans in your size to measure from (see notes) ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ If you do not have high waisted jeans remember to add extra height at the waistband. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like the culottes to be longer/wider, or to make a size larger than a UK 16. ■ If you are unsure whether the trousers will fit, add more seam allowance all around to give you some extra to play with. MATERIALS USED Woven viscose, ref: 710498; Elastic tape, ref: 3509044. Both available at…

You may find it hard to believe that a sewing sensation with over 10 million views on YouTube could ever put a foot wrong when it comes to crafting but Mimi G, founder of Sew It Academy, is more than happy to admit she hasn’t always been a whizz on the sewing machine. "I LAUNCHED SEW IT ACADEMY TO HELP PEOPLE WHO WANT TO LEARN SEWING AND FASHION DESIGN BUT CAN’T AFFORD TO GO TO A TRADITIONAL DESIGN SCHOOL.” “The first project I made was a rub off of a green knit dress that I had,” recalls Mimi. “I remember being 12 and not understanding that there were stretch and non-stretch fabrics, so I made it out of a woven material, but when I tried to put it on it…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric 25x20cm (10x8in) for the bow ■ Linen fabric 10x10cm (4x4in) for the bow centre ■ Stranded cotton in three shades of pink ■ Hair elastic ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FRENCH KNOT Step one Come up through the fabric and wrap the working thread around the needle twice.01 Step two Pull the working thread taut as you insert the needle close to where the stitch started, but not in the same hole. Step three Hold the working thread as you pull the needle through, forming the knot.02 CUTTING OUT Step one From the linen fabric cut: Bow: 24x18cm (9½x71/8in) Bow centre: 9x6.5cm (35/8x25/8in) Mark an 11x8cm (43/8x31/8in) rectangle in the centre of the larger piece. MAKING THE HAIR BOW Step one Working…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A – Honey brown faux fur 58x48cm (23x19in) ■ Fabric B – Dark brown wool felt 10x12cm (4x4¾in) ■ Black stranded cotton ■ Pair of safety eyes ■ Polyester toy filling ■ Length of ribbon ■ Extra-long pins ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE Approx 22cm (8¾in) tall NOTES ■ Find the template on page 98, or download and print from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads ■ Measurements are width x height. ■ Place the pattern pieces and cut the fabric so that the stretch is on the width. The nap on the fur fabric should run downwards. ■ Use 6mm (¼in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. ■ After sewing each part of the bear, gently pull out trapped fur from the seams, using…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…