Indholdsfortegnelse for 65 i Simply Sewing

A new season seems the natural time to spring forwards and arm ourselves with new ideas, plans, fabrics and habits to mark the first shoots of spring in this new decade. After all, to revive, refresh and reset; the act of sewing is all those things. So make this the month when you learn a new stitch, get to grips with gathers or upcycle a denim favourite, and we’ll be here to provide sewing inspiration and a helping hand. Quirky, beautiful or practical, there’s something for every sewist in this issue, from a scented garden of Liberty florals to good-looking storage solutions and an utterly adorable puppy plushie. Share and post your spring makes using #simplysewingmag WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

DARING TRAPEZE Both comfy and chic, the Floreat by Megan Nielsen is an asymmetrical dress that is fitted, comfortable and has interesting details and minimal seams to let the fabric shine. Clean lines, inseam pockets and multiple pattern variations make this garment interseasonal; use woven fabrics for late winter and go sleeveless for spring. www.megannielsen.com WOOLLY WONDER Winter means outerwear – and the Hot Toddy Coat sewing pattern from Our Lady of Leisure is a real head turner. The ‘duster’ style design, with its clean lines, is perfect for wool coating fabrics. Plus there are no fussy buttons or zippers – count us in! See more at www.ourladyofleisure.etsy.com COOL FOR KIDS What a cute idea! Hawthorn Handmade has a range of Go Stitch kits, such as this necklace, which are…

14 FEBRUARY-14 JUNE The Designers Guild changed the way we view colour, pattern and texture in our homes. Out of the Blue celebrates the Guild’s influence at the Fashion and Textile Museum. 4 MARCH If you’re stuck on a sewing technique and need intensive, face-to-face help, this Garment Making 4-week evening course in Manchester by Stitched Up will help. 5-8 MARCH Head up to Glasgow for the Creative Craft Show and The Scottish Quilting Show Spring 2020 for creative craft inspiration aimed at new and established crafters. 19-22 MARCH This four-day event is a popular fixture in the sewing calendar for sewists, knitters and patchworkers with plenty to buy and inspire you with workshops, demonstrations and experts at Sewing for Pleasure, NEC.…

Juliet’s not the only success story to come from last series. Janet Poole, who came fifth in the show has also been a busy bee. “I took a break from sewing after the show finished, but I soon got into it again by joining in with the Make Nine for 2019 challenge on Instagram. Planning those nine garments certainly got my creative juices flowing and now I’m back in full sewing flow.” As with Juliet, The Sewing Bee opened lots of doors for Janet, who has been dissuaded from her original plans to have a quiet retirement. “I was reluctantly settling down into retirement but the show gave me a new lease of life,” she shares. “I have had the opportunity to talk to lots of groups about my experiences,…

CRAFT BAG Make a craft stash bag to hold yarn and knitting needles or to carry small, portable sewing projects so you can carry on making while you’re on the move. It’s practical yet pretty and sure to be at the top of every crafter’s wish list. CUSHION COVERS We can’t resist a fabric-covered notebook, they’re great for journalling or to use as a sewing diary. To make a gift that’ll be popular with everybody, cover an everyday notebook with Liberty fabric, adding a band of linen to the spine. MAKE-UP BAG Choose your most treasured Liberty offcuts or snip your favourite prints into small squares and patch them onto a make-up bag. Make the bag from linen to complement the pattern clash and add a stamped or embroidered name…

With new sewists the temptation is to make the latest pattern that’s all over social media – even if it’s not quite what you would normally wear – and buying all the fabrics, the brighter and more sparkly the better! I was the same in my early days of sewing, I made big frou-frou skirts (I rarely wore skirts), I used a lot of pink (I didn’t even like pink) and, inevitably, many of the things I made were more like works of art than wearable clothes! Thankfully, that phase didn’t last long and now my favourite things to sew are garments in core basic styles that are the building blocks of my wardrobe, good quality basics that I know will get lots of wear. Back in the late 90s…

Browsing the shelves in fabric stores is a favourite pastime for sewists (myself included!). Touching fabrics in person is a great way to get an idea of what your garment will look and feel like once sewn. It's still easy to make the wrong choices though, so read our tips to avoid the trap of buying up a pretty print only to find it doesn’t behave in the way you'd hoped! GLOSSARY WARP AND WEFT The warp runs up and down the fabric length and the weft runs from selvedge to selvedge. If you love an easy rhyme to help remember things, try this: 'the weft runs from right to left'. SELVEDGE The selvedge is the finished edge of the fabric, this will sometimes have a brand name or the…

1 Add inseam or patch pockets to add an extra function for everyday wear. 2 Use the same techniques to create a tunic top, a mini dress or a maxi dress. 3 The 'looseness' of your finished dress is dependent on the fit of the template top you use and the distance away from the garment edge you draw your new underarm/side seams. Make a looser or tighter fitting dress if you like! 4 Play with the sleeve length; short for summer or longer for the colder months. 5 Embroider the belt or neckline of the dress to quickly turn it into a party dress.…

Sweet dreams are assured with this oh-so-cute star mat from RICO Design. From its embroidered ‘dreams’ motif to its cushiony finish and star shape, kids of all ages will love to snuggle up on this padded star (or use it as a blanket) for a bedtime story. Colourwise, we adore the pretty pastels and shimming gold highlights. What's best, the simple shape is easy to sew and the little pom poms add a fun finish... making this a dream of a project in more ways than one! Find more makes like this at www.rico-design.com This sweet blanket is featured in the Hello Baby embroidery booklet (No. 167) published by RICO Design. For stockist details visit www. rico-design.com…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Navy blue 16 count cross-stitch fabric: 40x40cm (16x16in) ■ Navy blue cotton fabric: 25x60cm (10x24in) ■ 30cm (12in) embroidery hoop ■ Iron-on interfacing, stiff: 15x30cm (6x12in) ■ White zip: 22cm (9in) ■ Stranded embroidery cotton in white and bright coral ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT The cross sttch fabric is not cut at this stage, it will be cut out after it has been embroidered later on. Step one From the navy cotton cut: Pencil case lining: 15x27cm (6x105/8in) Pencil case backing: 15x27cm (6x105/8in) Zip tabs: two 7.5x3cm (3x1¼in) (this should be the width of your zip, so if your zip is wider than 3cm/1¼in, adjust this measurement accordingly). Step two From…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Red quilting weight cotton: 11x13cm (5x6in) ■ White quilting weight cotton: 11x17cm (5x7in) ■ Mint quilting weight cotton for outer: 50x55cm (20x22in) ■ Mint quilting weight cotton or mid-weight canvas for lining: 50x35cm (20x14in) ■ 50x35cm (20x14in) foam interfacing ■ 28cm (11in) zip ■ Fabric clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT THE PATCHWORK PANEL Step one Begin by cutting out all the squares and strips for the patchwork panel, as follows. Step two From the white fabric cut: White accent squares: six 5.5x5.5cm (2¼x2¼in) Step three From the red fabric cut: Cross upper and lower: two 5.5x5.5cm (2¼x2¼in) Cross horizontal strip: one 5.5x12.5cm (2¼x5in) Step four From the mint outer fabric: Background…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric 50x50cm (20x20in) ■ Quilting cotton 45x60cm (18x24in) ■ Embroidery hoop ■ Thick thread such as cotton retors or size 3 Perle cotton ■ 40cm (16in) cushion pad ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit HOLBEIN STITCH Step one Make a line of running stitch, coming up and going back down on the pattern line.01 Step two Using either the same or a contrasting colour, go back and fill in the gaps in running stitch. To do this, work running stitch going in the opposite direction from your first line, coming up and going down in the same holes as the first set of stitches.02 MAKING THE PILLOW Step one Embroider the waved lines pattern on linen using Holbein stitch and a thick thread. Use…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

Now we’re on the edge of spring, we can’t help feeling the need for a refresh. So, to kickstart the new sewing season, we've turned to one of our favourite brands – Liberty. We’ve embraced the new-season mood for florals with The Liberty Dress (p38), plus nine easy-sew spring gift ideas (p24) made from the same beautiful blooms. Are you ready for a spring clean? The drawstring laundry bag, shoe storage and denim tub (p70 + p85) are all must-make solutions. Finally, this issue we've even included an exclusive Burda Style dress pattern for you to try. You know me, I love trying new things...…

JOAN TROUSERS, FRIDAY PATTERN COMPANY If you're sewing in a hurry opt for the Joan pattern, which you can sew up in an evening and wear the next day! Wide legs, scoop pockets and a belt loop waist add structure and feel great made from knit fabrics with a good amount of stretch. Hop on over to www.fridaypatterncompany.com DAWN JEANS, MEGAN NIELSEN Dawn Jeans have all the details of a classic pair of jeans with three variation in leg styles, so you can make a tapered leg, straight or wide leg and there’s the option of jean shorts too. With a comfy high waist and multiple lengths, use linen, twill or corduroy fabrics. For more, visit www. megannielsen.com ARMOR TROUSERS AND SHORTS, I AM PATTERNS Pretty pintucks and buttons are…

SEWING BASICS FOR EVERY BODY Wendy Ward (£12.99, Cico Books) Wendy Ward loves functional yet beautiful basics! She shares here 20 patterns for various button-down shirts, tops, hoodies and T-shirts, trousers, jackets and jumpsuits. The five core basics, plus all the variations to make the 20 designs, are included on three pull-out, full-scale, pattern sheets. There’s a fab techniques section too. www.makeetc.com THE MODERN EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP Lauren Holton (£16.99, Octopus Books) Fancy embellishing a plain tee or two with some eye-catching embroidery? Lauren Holton has put together 20 motifs, patterns and projects that are suitable for complete newbies through to experienced embroiderers. There are easy-to-follow instructions for each colourful design, and as a bonus there are tips for how to customise your work. www.octopusbooks.co.uk HOUSE OF PINHEIRO'S WORK TO WEEKEND…

DRAMATIC RUFFLED SLEEVES This glamorous design uses simple origami folds to create stunning structured sleeves. Use crisp woven fabrics such as poplin or broadcloth to make sure they keep their shape. GATHERED CUFFS The pattern features elasticated cuffs, which are easy to work and give a delicate, pretty finish to the bolder structured design. FLATTERING WRAPAROUND DESIGN Available in sizes 6-18, this pattern’s hip-bow closure and wraparound style are flattering on a wide variety of body types. SCREWDRIVER The Screwdriver blouse from Our Lady of Leisure is an eye-catching design that combines a structured origami sleeve with delicate gathered cuffs and a flattering wraparound waist, finished off with a big dramatic bow. It might look complicated, but it’s a surprisingly straightforward garment to create, and is perfect for practising gathering…

If your new year’s resolution was to pass on your skills and teach someone how to sew then this issue’s bonus Burda Style pattern will help you in your quest. The Misses Top and Dress (6540), from the Burda Easy range, is designed with new sewists in mind. It’s super-easy to make so they will see results quickly. Plain yet stylish, the top and dress patterns have no fastening or darts – so no tricky details to grapple with. You could sew them in a weekend! Enter our competition to win more patterns for your stash on page 15. CLICK HERE! TO BUY THIS PATTERN FROM £7.99 WHILE STOCKS LAST * GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. SOME PAPER GIFTS ONLY AVAILABLE ON UK NEWSSTAND. * GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. SOME PAPER…

1 If you have a pattern picked out, take it shopping with you so that you can visualise the fabric in the design. 2 If you are browsing in the fabric store with no project in mind and are just looking to build up your stash (we’re all guilty of this!) it’s important to understand the fabric composition, weight and weave so that you don’t buy fabric that will be difficult to work with and which will end up unused. 3 It's important to see the fabric for its many qualities instead of just the print. Many sewists, especially beginners, are drawn in by a beautiful design but fail to realise how tricky the fabric may be to work with or how the fabric will feel when worn. 4 If…

YOU WILL NEED ■ PAP FAB 72x100cm (28x40in) ■ Metal zip (see notes) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ We made three purses using zip lengths 20cm (8in), 25cm (10in) and 30cm (12in) – see finished measurements. ■ The base of the small and medium purses have been boxed so they stand up. We made the larger pouch flat, without a boxed base. MATERIALS USED ■ PAP FAB in gold/cognac (Ref: 95504) from Stoff & Stil, www.stoffstil.co.uk FINISHED MEASUREMENTS ■ All measurements are WxH. ■ Small purse: 23x10cm (91/8x4in). ■ Medium purse: 27x16cm (105/8x63/8in). ■ Large purse: 33x20cm (13x8in). CUTTING OUT For the small purse Step one From the PAP FAB cut: Purse outer: two 25x16cm (10x63/8in). Zip…

There can be a big disconnect between a coffee table book of little substance and a practical book of little style. But Denis Antoine’s book Fashion Design (published by Laurence King) is proof that these two things can marry in perfect harmony. This fashion bible wouldn’t look out of place on your Instagram feed, but it’s also your window into the life of a fashion designer and it is brimming with fascinating anecdotes and useful advice. As a Professor of Fashion at Savannah College of Art and Design, Denis is no stranger to sharing his immense knowledge of fashion design, so it only seems right that he’s now put pen to paper and written this one-stop-shop for design wannabes. His time as a student was spent in London, where he…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Patterned quilting weight cotton: 50x110cm (20x44in) ■ Natural unbleached cotton or linen: 90x110cm (36x44in) ■ 5mm (¼in) wide cotton drawstring cord: 2.6m (3yd) ■ Foam interfacing: 50x110cm (20x44in) ■ 2.5cm (1in) wide interfacing tape: 60cm (24in) ■ Fabric clips (optional) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED ■ Outer fabric used: Twist from Dashwood; Toast. NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ All measurements are HxW. ■ Fabric clips can be easier to use with foam interfacing because of its thickness, but are not essential. FINISHED SIZE Approx 26x26x32cm (10¼x10¼x125/8in) WxDxH. CUTTING OUT Step one From the patterned quilting cotton cut out the following: Bag outer: two pieces 48x55cm (187/8x217/8in). Step two From the unbleached cotton/linen cut: Lining: two 48x55cm…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Denim jeans (see notes) ■ Old denim or chambray shirt ■ Recycled dressing gown belt or cord for the strap ■ Seam unpicker ■ Pattern paper ■ White and red stranded cotton ■ Embroidery needle ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ We used four pairs of denim jeans for this project – if you wish to make the bag larger or smaller you can adjust this accordingly. CUTTING OUT Step one Using a stitch unpicker, unpick the trouser seams.01 Step two Cut the sections of the jeans into rectangles as large as possible. Step three Sew the rectangles together to make a piece 132x53cm (52x21in) for the outer bag. Step four Assemble a second…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

"My dad didn’t care much for ‘things’ but when he passed away 10 years ago I was given his cashmere jumpers. Cashmere was his one luxury, and so the jumpers remained in a bag under my bed until a recent visit to an exhibition at London’s V&A Museum, celebrating 1960s fashion icon, Mary Quant. Inspired by Quant’s A-line shapes and colour-blocking of wool fabric, I returned home and felted three of my dad’s jumpers in a hot wash. I designed and drafted a pattern inspired by a red and cream wool dress that encapsulated Quant’s fun, quirky 60s vibe and used a mix of the navy, grey and pink cashmere to design statement sleeves and symmetrical colour-blocking detail. The transformation was bittersweet; gone was my dad’s comforting and familiar V-neck…

WENDY WARD Wendy is a designer, author, teacher and maker. She has a degree in Fashion Design and an MA in Design. In 2012 she launched her own sewing patterns – MIY Collection. Find out what inpires her on page 42 and see her new book on page 45. JULIET UZOR The youngest ever winner of The Great British Sewing Bee, 2019 champion Juliet is a London-based sewing teacher, columnist and bespoke garment maker. Follow her on Instagram @julietuzor_ and find out about her latest adventures on page 16. RACHEL AVERY Rachel is a London-based writer and blogger who enjoys spin classes, shopping and exploring the UK capital. Instagram is where she finds creative inspiration for fashion and home décor. She gives a new fashion book sneak peek review on…

1 START WITH THE BASICS When it comes to stitching gathers, working them by hand is perhaps the best place to start. It’s an age-old technique that allows you to draw your fabric together exactly how you want to get neat results. Mark out the area that you want to gather, and work two or three parallel lines of straight hand stitching across it, spacing them around 5mm apart. As you grow more confident with the technique, you can use a stab motion to pick up several tucks of fabric at a time and speed up the process. Once finished, pull the threads gently to draw the fabric up, then secure to hold your gathers in place before continuing with your project. 2 MOVE ONTO THE MACHINE Once you’ve mastered…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Existing garment ■ Freezer paper ■ Craft knife or scalpel and a cutting mat (bigger than your motif) ■ Fabric paint ■ A chopped up dish-washing sponge, sponge roller, or sponge paintbrush ■ Pencil NOTES ■ Freezer paper is a type of waxed paper, available from most big sewing supplies stores. ■ Download the template from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads. HAND-PRINT A STENCIL Step one Cut freezer paper to fit your design and to fit onto the garment to be stencilled. Step two Cut out the template and draw around it onto the freezer paper. Cut the scissor design out of the freezer paper using a craft knife and a cutting mat. Keep any completely cut out parts so that you can reposition them later, such as the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Top that fits to use as a template ■ Ponte or a similar stable knit: 2m (2¼yd) ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing ■ Paper to make the pattern ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ¦ Ponte Roma Jersey, Royal Blue from Sew Essential, www.sewessential.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, selvedge to selvedge. Fold your template top in half along the length and place the folded edge of the top along the folded edge of the fabric.01 Step two Draw the shape of the dress directly onto the fabric using the template top as a guide. Closely follow the line of the shoulder line, back neckline and cuff. When it comes to the underarm, draw a curve to smoothly join…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Two fat quarters ■ Elastic 60cm (23½in) x 12mm (½in) wide ■ Large safety pin for feeding the elastic through ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Use a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance throughout unless stated otherwise. ■ Fat quarter = 45x56cm (18x22in). ■ Download the template from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads. FINISHED SIZE To fit a child aged 2-3 years, with room for a nappy. Waist 48-50cm (18¾-19¾in), length 21-22cm (8¼-8¾in). PREPARATION Step one Press both fat quarters, place them right sides (RS) together then cut: Shorts front: cut pair. Shorts back: cut pair. Pocket : cut two. Step two Transfer the fold-line marks for the elastic casing from the pattern templates onto the RS of the fabrics; also transfer all notches. MAKING THE SHORTS…

What does fashion mean to you? “Fashion is more than pretty clothes; it is an ecosystem of historical context, societal influences, personal expression and industrial systems.” What three words best describe your own fashion style? “Colourful, playful classics.” Who would be your dream celebrity to design for? “Pharrell Williams, Timothée Chalamet and Zayn Malik. All three have such a free approach to playing with the traditional ‘rules’ of menswear, mixing classics with street style, blending colour and patterns and exploring the boundaries of masculine and feminine symbols. Just my cup of tea.” What’s the toughest thing about the fashion industry? “Fashion has a misleading reputation as a cut-throat industry. I very much disagree because I have found that the most successful people in our industry are often those who are…