Indholdsfortegnelse for 77 i Simply Sewing

Welcome to our last issue of 2020! We’re celebrating with a bumper issue of three patterns: the Cocoon Dress, the Wrap Skirt, and the Riley Backpack. The fabrics used for our Cocoon Dress came from the lovely Sammy of Samantha Claridge Studio, and you can find her column on page 28 where she’s talking about cosy comforts. We also have a brilliant feature all about zero-waste patterns on page 62 for those looking for a greener way to enjoy this wonderful pastime of ours. From all of us at Simply Sewing, we wish you and your families a very safe and happy new year, see you in 2021. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

A WELCOME WINTER Deer and Doe has launched two new patterns as part of its 2020 winter collection: Neige, a stylish knit jumper with dramatic sleeves, and Acajou, a pair of chic high-waisted trousers with an elasticed back. The patterns are designed to be comfortable and comforting at the end of what has been a turbulent year for us all. Shop the new designs at deer-and-doe.com LET'S WORK FROM HOME If you need us we'll be making Billie dresses from Tilly and the Buttons! The sweatshirt and sweater-dress pattern is super comfortable, and balloon sleeves add a dressy touch that can take you from the sofa to socialising! Available in 6–24, tillyandthebuttons.com TIME FOR A TIDY As we come to the end of 2020 and get ready to start a…

Even though dolls have been recorded in Egyptian tombs from as early as 200BC, the humble soft toy is a recent concept in comparison. The first soft toy, it seems, was actually a pin cushion made by Steiff in the 1850s, but the fad for soft toys really started in 1892 with the mass production of Ithaca Kitty. Teddy bears reared their heads in 1903 inspired by a picture of Teddy Roosevelt with a bear cub. In the same year Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabbit was also introduced to the market. Then, in The Great Depression, the sock monkey became incredibly popular. Inundated by your lovely photographs this month I have decided to shake it up a bit and have several pictures instead of the usual three. Ruth Todd trained as…

The term 'colourblocking' first came into use in 1946 when designer Yves St. Laurent used panels of bold colour in his autumn/ winter show garments, inspired by the work of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. It grew in popularity during the 1960s and 70s, then came to a head in the 1980s with neon brights and metallic sheens taking over the fashion world. The trend quietened down a little during the early 2000s, but is now back with a vengeance and hitting the lookbooks of designers across the world once more.…

Ray Darten. A brand where the prints are loud, the makers are passionate artisans and the owner is a former medical doctor. Unique is definitely one way to describe this powerhouse company. While at medical school, Yetunde Olukoya decided to take up sewing lessons as a hobby. “I have always known how to sew from a young age, initially self-taught but I soon realised that there was still a lot to learn,” she explains. During her medical training, Yetunde kept up her passion, telling Simply Sewing: “I would take apart clothes and make new styles out of them, and I also made multiple outfits for myself, family, and friends with my mom’s sewing machine.” Motherhood made Yetunde turn to her sewing skills once again, creating matching outfits for herself and…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Old sweatshirt ■ Jersey press fasteners ■ Hammer ■ Jersey sewing machine needle ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in› unless otherwise stated. ■ We recommend using sweatshirt or jersey jumpers rather than knitted loose weave items. CUTTING OUT Step one Find the centre of the front of your sweater and mark a cutting line straight down the middle with chalk or dissolvable fabric marker.01 Step two Carefully cut the front of the jumper open making sure you don’t cut through the back of the jumper too.02 FINISHING THE RAW EDGES Step one Turn the raw edges in by 1cm (3/8in) and hem with a slightly longer stitch length (we used 2.6) in a matching thread but leaving the…

Buy more bobbins than you think you need. Pre-wind a selection of your most used colours in your most used thread type – you’ll thank yourself when you run out mid-project! Use bobbins that are made for your machine. Metal and plastic bobbins aren’t interchangeable. Always check your manual as using the incorrect bobbin can damage to your machine. Don’t double wind – practical yes, but the chance of things going wrong increase tenfold when you wind one colour on top of another . Pre-wound bobbins can be a great time-saver but only if you can buy the specific bobbin type that your machine needs with a thread that is suitable for your project. If in doubt, take the time to wind your own bobbin to prevent thread nests, needles…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Quilting-weight cotton: 50x115cm (20x45in) ■ Lightweight cotton or bamboo wadding: 50x110cm (20x43in) ■ Plain quilting-weight cotton for lining: 50x115cm (20x45in) ■ Silver satin bias binding, 3cm (1¼in) wide: 2m (2¼yd) ■ Cover button kit with tool to make three 1.5cm (5/8in) wide buttons ■ Paper for the templates ■ Fabric clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Covered button kit is by Prym. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates MATERIALS USED ■ Luna in light blue from Far Far Away 2 collection by Windham, windhamfabrics.net CUTTING OUT Step one Trace or photocopy template A twice. Cut out and turn one of the pieces over. Next, tape the two pieces together along the edge that…

Starting the new year with a brand-new backpack brings back fond memories of shopping for stationery and a bag ready to begin a new year at school – wasn't that always so exciting?! Now you can treat yourself to that same buzz with your bonus pattern this issue. The Riley Backpack comes from Debbie von Grabler-Crozier (thefolkartfactory.etsy.com) and is made in the funnest fabric ever! This print is called Cactus and it's from the Wildlife range by Ophelia Pang for Cloud 9 Fabrics. It goes so well with some bright webbing too.…

It's been 8 months since I've been to our office (how mad!) so this issue I'm paying homage to the wonderfully strange year of 2020 and all those hours spent working at home. First up, 6 desk makes to transform your workspace (p30) – mine could do with an update! Next, a bag to store decorating clothes in (p71), because like many we finally updated our décor mid lockdown. Lastly, a cactus-print backpack (p75) inspired by the endless days spent in the garden and named after my stepson, Riley. Like many, he spent the longest summer of his life at home missing school and pals. Here's to a better 2021 for all...…

If one had to describe Emilia’s character in one sentence, that would be “not being afraid to try things”. Over the years they have experimented with all sorts of creative pursuits, from music to painting to hermetic poetry to leather crafts. But it’s the fibre arts that have really stuck with them. Originally, their motivation to start sewing was very much rooted in environmental concerns, chiefly not wanting to buy into the endless consumeristic cycle of non-stop buying, as well as an attraction towards simple, unobtrusive silhouettes. With time, Emilia’s style has evolved and with it their sewing, the focus shifting from 'art teacher chic' to more structured looks based on tailored pants and button-up shirts. Sewing has become an even more important part of Emilia’s life since coming out…

NEW LAUNCH GIVEAWAY!  The Sewing Directory is launching a brand new website in January 2021, and is running a big £1,500 giveaway to celebrate! Head to thesewingdirectory. co.uk from 6th January to enter! MAKE AN INFINITY DRESS With Portia Lawrie's free tutorial you can make a dress that be worn six different ways using just three metres of jersey. One dress for six occasions sounds good to us! Search for 'Infinity Dress' on gathered.how 31 STORE CUPBOARD CRAFTS Make your own T-shirt yarn, use a washing basket to make a wreath, and make a rug from plastic bags. You'll find tutorials for all of these projects on gathered.how by searching for 31 Store Cupboard Crafts.…

We love an opportunity to wear something comfy, and with the Cocoon Dress we can be cosy without having to compromise on style. Time to grab your favourite jerseys and make your new go-to that will see you through these colder winter months. We can't wait to play around with colour and pattern combos too with the hem band version. The Cocoon Dress is designed to have a relaxed fit, so we recommend making a toile before getting started in case you want something a little bit more fitted. YOU WILL NEED For the V-neck dress: 22mx150cm2ydx59in) For the round neck dress: 1.8mx150cm (2ydx59in) Contrasting fabric: 30x150cm (12x59in) For both versions: Ballpoint sewing machine needle Twin ballpoint sewing machine needle (optional) Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam…

1 START WITH SOLIDS Colourblocking isn't just for plain fabrics – any material can be used, even those with busy prints or woven designs. However, it's often wise to stick to solid fabrics for your first colourblock make. Matching seams and joining up pattern pieces can be tricky enough, without the added hassle of matching prints, too. 2 PLAN IT OUT In order to ensure your colours match well, sketch out your designs before you begin. You can even use swatches of fabric to test your ideas – mix and match until you find a combo you love. 3 USE THE WHEEL If you're having trouble picking your shades, use a traditional colour wheel for guidance. A good rule of thumb is to pick two or three colours that sit…

PHONE WALLET Keep all of your essentials safe and in one place with this card and phone wallet. Play around with plains and patterns to make it colourful and playful, and perhaps most importantly, hard to lose! FABRIC BANNER Make a statement with a hanging banner above your desk – it features one of our all-time favourite messages. Add colourful tassels to brighten up a wall and you could even personalise it with your own appliqué designs. LAPTOP CASE Rarely do we use our laptop cases for just our laptops, so the pocket on this will come in super useful for carrying our notebooks, stationery, and even our keyboards. FABRIC PINBOARD Stay organised with this fabric pinboard that's both practical and decorative. Keep reminders and inspiration in sight and use…

In a mission to make her business as transparent as possible, Yetunde has launched the hashtag #whomadeyourclotheswednesday and as the name suggests, every Wednesday she focuses on showing off who actually makes the clothes. Each week a different maker takes to the spotlight on Instagram and followers get to learn a little bit about them. Tope What’s the hardest challenge you have faced while making a Ray Darten outfit? “For me, it’s pinning the bottom part of the Dashiki dress, it is stressful because it has to be accurate to match the design.” Abolarin What does African fashion mean to you? “African print to me is a means to show off one’s creativity. We have not yet explored the full potential of African print.” Yusuf Where do you see yourself…

Update your favourite denim jacket with this cute embroidery from 'Hello! Horray!' blogger Clare Albans. This is one of 24 creative projects included in Clare's brand-new book Colourful Fun Embroidery. The projects are broken down into 'crafternoon makes', 'medium makes', and 'longer pick-me-up projects' so you can choose whichever best suits your day. Whether you're personalising clothes or making bright wall hangings, the projects in this book are designed to help you take a bit of time out to stitch and relax. Clare Alban's first book, Colourful Fun Embroidery, was published in November 2020 by White Owl Books and is available to buy from pen-and-sword.co.uk…

With a greater understanding of the threats our planet is up against and what we can do to make a difference, many of us are taking more steps towards living an eco-friendlier life. We recycle, try to cut down our carbon emissions, and give fast fashion a swerve as much as possible, but how can we bring this sustainable ethos to our sewing? At the end of a project we’re often left with offcuts and scraps of fabric and, although most sewists will try and find a use for it somehow, much will end up simply being thrown away. The solution? Using zero waste patterns. Liz Haywood (lizhaywood.com.au), the author of Zero Waste Sewing explains: “Zero waste sewing is using 100% of the fabric, with no scraps or waste. The…

YOU WILL NEED ■ White cotton fabric: two pieces, 65x45cm (26x18in) – bag outer ■ Yellow fabric: 30x18cm (12x8in) – paintbrush ■ Corduroy in a dark colour: 17x20cm (7x8in) – bristles ■ Bright coloured fabric: 6.5cm (25/8x71/8in) – paint drops ■ Bondaweb or iron-on webbing ■ Water erasable pen ■ Small buttons: x13 ■ One packet of flat Korbond sports laces: 110cm (44in) ■ Fine paint brush ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print, and cut out the templates. Step two Press the iron-on webbing onto the wrong side (WS) of the brightly coloured fabrics. Draw each piece of design onto the paper side of the Bondaweb/webbing. Step…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen: 30x30cm (12x12in) see notes ■ Quilting cotton: 4.5x30cm (17/8x12in) ■ Stranded cotton in coordinating shades ■ Medium-weight interfacing ■ Fray Check (optional) ■ 8in embroidery hoop ■ Metal clasp set ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Actual amount of linen required is 4.5x30cm (17/8x12in), you will need more if you are using an embroidery hoop. 30x30cm (12x12in) will allow you to move the hoop around to embroider the entire length. You could embroider multiple key fobs on the piece of linen to make use of the excess. TULIP STITCH Step one Start tulip stitch like a lazy daisy/ detached chain stitch. Come up and go back down through the same hole, leaving a…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

ROISIN MCKENNA Simply Sewing’s Technical Editor Roisin loves the nitty gritty of pattern design. She checks all of our patterns and this issue she’s designed one just for you (see page 44). “The Wrap Skirt was a fun project from start to finish, I love the tie detail!” DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER Debbie is the designer of this issue’s third cover pattern, the Riley Backpack, see page 75. We absolutely love the fun fabric Debbie used for this, it’s called Cactus and it’s from the Wildlife range by Ophelia Pang for Cloud9 Fabrics. YETUNDE OLUKOYA Yetunde is the doctor turned designer behind Ray Darten, a brand specialising in African inspired fashion and accessories. We had the chance to speak with Yetunde to learn more about her and her business, read all…

Cuffs Cuffs can completely transform the look of a me-made garment, says Production Editor Emily. CUFF TOP, THE ASSEMBLY LINE This is The Assembly Line's most loved pattern, and it's easy to see why. It's versatile, modern, comfortable, and an easy sew. The top has a straight fit with cap sleeves and wide elastic cuffs for a laidback look. Available in XS–4XL from theassemblylineshop.com DAYO DRESS AND BLOUSE, SEWING PATTERNS BY MASIN The Dayo can be made as a midi dress or a blouse that can easily be dressed up or down. Both versions feature balloon sleeves and shirring at the waist and cuffs. The design is clean, elegant, and feminine and best suited to lightweight fabrics.Available in XS–XXL from sewingpatternsbymasin.com NEXUS BLOUSE, PAPERCUT PATTERNS The Nexus is a long…

MIXED FIBER MACRAMÉ Chantel Conlon ($22.99, Page Street Publishing) You can quickly make something with big impact with macramé, and Chantel's book introduces mixed fibres to the craft to create pieces that have even more texture and visual interest. This book includes 25 projects including wall hangings, plant hangers, and accessories for the home such as rugs and pillow covers, and ones you can wear including earrings and a necklace. CREATIVE STITCHES FOR CONTEMPORARY EMBROIDERY Sharon Boggon (£24.99, C&T Publishing) Master 120 contemporary stitches with this photographic embroidery guide. You'll learn how to create new patterns and intricate designs by manipulating height, width, symmetry, and layers with your stitches and find heaps of inspiration for new projects. You'll find left-handed stitches in there, too! THE BOOK OF BORO Susan Briscoe…

ARLO TRACK JACKET We love the simple lines and bold colour combos possible with Friday Pattern Company's Arlo track jacket. The lightweight unisex design features a sport collar, zip-front, and three different hem lengths, meaning it can be customised to suit any body shape. fridaypatterncompany.com GO BRIGHT Use bold colours to make the different sections of this jacket really stand out. CONTRAST CUFFS Use a contrasting rib for the cuffs and waistband to add an extra pop of detail. CHOOSE YOUR LENGTH With three different lengths to choose from, Arlo is unisex and works on a variety of body types. PATTERN INSPIRATION Create something completely unique with these bright colourblock designs. There's something for every season! 1 V8805 DRESS This stylish shift dress design from Vogue Patterns features a pullover…

My mum tells me a story every autumn; she tells me about the first time I tried on a pair of fleece-lined tracksuit bottoms that she had made for me when I was four. I tried them on so she could fix the length in the hem, as I slid my foot into the waistband I made an involuntary sound. Mum said it was like a happy purr, my little toes touched the furry lining and my face lit up like a Christmas tree; “OOOH SOFT!” I said. I had never known such cosiness. She said that I would not stop saying how lovely they were, let alone take them off for her to hem. I wore them for three days, I even slept in them. On the fourth day…

PSST: Turn overleaf for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your finished Wrap Skirt with us using #simplysewingmag. A wrap skirt is such a classic piece to have in your wardrobe, it'll never go out of style. It's easy to wear and so versatile – it looks just as good paired with delicate heels as it does with a pair of chunky ankle boots. Make a timeless Wrap Skirt in floaty fabrics for a skirt that fits like a dream. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: ■ Skirt A: Sizes 6-16: 3.7mx115cm (4ydx45in) Sizes 18-24: 4mx115cm (4½ydx45in) Sizes 6-16: 3.6mx140cm (4ydx59in) Sizes 18-24: 4mx140cm (4½ydx59in) ■ Skirt B: Sizes 6-16: 2mx115cm (2¼ydx45in) Sizes 18-24: 2.6mx115cm (3ydx45in) Sizes 6-16: 2mx140cm (2¼ydx59in) Sizes 18-24: 2.3mx140cm (2½ydx59in) ■ Lightweight woven interfacing: 20x90cm (8x36in) ■ Button: 2cm…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Shirt ■ Stranded cotton in coordinating shades ■ Embroidery stabiliser/interfacing ■ Tracing Paper ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit PREPARATION Step one If your shirt has one, begin by carefully removing the shirt pocket. Lessen any stitch holes by giving the area several good steam presses.01 Step two To change the proportions of the shirt and give it a more boxy shape, remove the bottom few inches of the shirt so that the hem will fall at around hip height.02 Step three Finish the raw edge of the hem and turn under a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance and stitch in place.03 EMBROIDERING THE DESIGN Step one Lay your tracing paper on top of the shirt and trace the outline of the…

The Zero Waste Poncho We adore this chic throw-on poncho, by the effortlessly cool label Bambini Del Mare. It features a tie waistband and optional bow and only has five seams! bambinidelmare.com The Gather Dress Birgitta Helmersson’s easy-to-wear, loose-fitting dress is the ultimate in Scandi-cool. You'll find handy tutorials on the website, too.birgittahelmersson.com The Maynard Dress A stylish, comfy contemporary wrap dress that will flatter all shapes and sizes.elbetextiles.com.au The Cropped T-shirt Derived from a Danish Bronze Age pattern, this is the definition of timeless. makeuse.nz…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Plain fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) ■ Patterned fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) ■ Faux leather strapping: 12cm (4¾in) length ■ Cut to size foam insert ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Instead of a foam insert you could use cushion filling or bean-bag beads, but these will give a less structured finished look. MATERIALS USED ■ Patterned fabric: Grassland Bright and Early by Cotton and Steel, available from: misformake.co.uk ■ Plain fabric: Kona Solids, Ultra Marine 483, available from woolwarehouse.co.uk ■ Cut to size foam insert from: foamsuperstore.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one To make your templates draw a circle with a 49cm (193/8in) diameter (label as template A). Trace off this circle twice and cut one into…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cream faux fur: 41x38cm (16x15in) ■ Brown faux fur: 23x14cm (9x5½in) ■ Beige plush: 39x28cm (15½x11in) ■ Black cuddle plush: 5x5cm (2x2in) ■ Black wool felt: 4x1½cm (1½x¾in) ■ Lead fabric: 35x10cm (14x4in) ■ Collar fabric: 65x5cm (25½x2in) ■ Iron-on interfacing: 65x5cm (25½x2in) ■ Light turquoise stranded cotton ■ Press stud ■ Small plastic or metal ring: 1.5cm (5/8in) internal diameter ■ Polyester toy filling: 150g ■ Extra long pins ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE ■ Approximately 16cm (6¼in) tall. NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates ■ Fabric measurements are WxH. ■ Tape the Body and Underbody templates before starting. ■ Cut fur pieces with the nap running downwards, except for the Muzzle which runs front to back. ■ Use 6mm (¼in) seam allowances.…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

"This Snow White dress was designed using Simplicity pattern 8489. It embodies everything I want in a princess dress of my own. A Disney Princess cosplay has been on my list for a long time now and I finally got to grant my wish in the form of a new sewing project. This dress, crafted with satins, rhinestones, and attention to minor details, is the most beautiful thing I've ever made. It holds a very special place for me because I deviated from the pattern and truly made it my own by adding lace, appliqués, and even a voile overskirt to add an extra dose of enchantment. In all of my 27 years, I had never once owned a Disney Princess dress that I could pull from my closet and…