Indholdsfortegnelse for 81 i Simply Sewing

Swap your sewing machine for your TV screen... The Great British Sewing Bee is back! We step behind the scenes with Joe, Patrick and Esme to get the lowdown on the latest series – turn to page 20 for all the gossip. If all that talk of sewing has you feeling inspired, head to page 34 for our gorgeous sewing room makes, or get to know your sewing machine a little better with our 44-page guide, free with this issue. If it’s your wardrobe rather than your sewing space in need of an refresh, get started on this month’s versatile Amelia dress and top set – it’s just the thing for a new season style update! WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

THE BEE IS BACK! It’s the most wonderful time of the year – we’re welcoming The Great British Sewing Bee back to our screens! We’ve been anxiously awaiting a return to the sewing room since the Christmas celebrity specials, and now it’s only a matter of days away. Head to page 20 to get all the behind-the-scenes goss from Joe and the judges, and meet this year’s new contestants! DESIGN DEBUT Sewing Bee's Mark Francis is launching his first pattern soon! The Turlough Shirt is a unisex oversized shirt that can easily be lengthened into a dress, making it a spring/ summer wardrobe must-have. Stay tuned for the launch at sewmarkfrancis.com. PEN TO PRINT As well as being a total embroidery addict, Lisa Dolson is also a hugely talented textile…

BESPOKE PATTERN MAKING Learn how to draft bespoke patterns and achieve the perfect fit with a workshop from Caterina Schmitt. Find out more and see the full range of workshops at krakencountercouture.co.uk. SEWING BEE INSIDER! Relive last year’s Sewing Bee series with an online chat with Mark Francis! You'll hear all about Mark's experiences on the show and beyond. This will take place at 7pm on 12 May; buy your ticket at eventbrite.co.uk. NEEDLE THERAPY Sign up for a mindful embroidered typography workshop from Lisa Dolson. In under an hour you’ll create a floral embroidery of your or a loved one’s initial to brighten up your walls. skillshare.com…

Finally! It’s the 2021 pick-me-up we’ve all been waiting for – The Great British Sewing Bee is back on our screens and guaranteed to raise a smile. Host Joe Lycett and judges Esme Young and Patrick Grant return this month with another 12 contestants, all ready to show off their skills at the sewing machine. Series seven (yes, seven!) has all the elements we’ve come to know and love, but Covid restrictions while filming this year’s episodes gave the sewists – and the producers – a whole host of new logistical challenges to juggle on top of the sewing! KEEPING A DISTANCE So what difference did it make to the filming experience? “On screen, about 99% of it is the same,” explains Patrick. “There’s a difference when you see the…

If talk of The Great British Sewing Bee has you itching to pull out your favourite patterns and get to work stitching up your next wardrobe update, don’t miss next month’s fantastic bonus wallchart of dressmaking alterations! These essential tips and tricks are taken from this year’s fantastic new book, The Great British Sewing Bee: The Techniques (Quadrille, £15) – it’s all you need to give your garments the perfect fit. Find your bonus wallchart in issue 82, on sale 13th May, along with three gorgeous patterns!…

1 RAGLAN DRESS & TOP Inspired by fashion week trends, this silky top from Trend Patterns features a high funnel neckline, oversized back necktie and a choice of different hem lengths. trendpatterns.co.uk 2 ZAHRA JUMPER The Zahra Jumper by Made My Wardrobe is a loose-fitting raglan sleeve jersey sweater that can either be made cropped or full length with a long or short collar. mademywardrobe.com 3 8TH MARCH ORIGAMI BLOUSE & DRESS This clever design from You Made My Day features beautifully pleated origami shoulders that take the casual raglan to a stand-out piece. Choose from long or short sleeves and two hem lengths. you-made-my-day.com 4 SIMPLICITY 9040 DRESS This retro-style pattern includes three different raglan dress designs, each featuring a pretty button front, buckle-belted waist, large pockets and semi-full…

Children will love wearing their easy-sew dungarees from MadeByMePatterns. YOU WILL NEED Woven or knit fabric: For the short-leg version ■ Fabric A 115cm (outer):  1m›6y: 1mx115cm (11/8ydx45in) 6y–10y: 1.2mx115cm (1½ydx45in) ■ Fabric A 140cm (outer): 1m–18m: 50x140cm (20x55in) 18m–10y: 75cmx140cm (30x55in) For the long-leg version ■ Fabric A 115cm (outer):  1m–18m: 1mx115cm (11/8ydx45in) 18m–5y: 1.25mx115cm (1½ydx45in) 5y–10y: 1.6mx115cm (1¾ydx45in) ■ Fabric A 140cm (outer):  1m–18m: 75x140cm (30x55in) 18m–6y: 1mx140cm (11/8ydx55in) 6y–10y: 1.25mx140cm (1½ydx55in) For both versions: ■ Fabric B (lining and pockets): All ages (short and long length): 70x115cm (28x45in) 70cmx140cm (28x55in) ■ Iron-on interfacing: 40x50cm (16x20in) ■ Snap fasteners x2 ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 6mm (¼in) throughout unless otherwise stated. ■ The instructions for making the long and short leg…

Whether you’re sitting down to sew for the first time or you and your machine are very well acquainted, our new booklet, Get to Know Your Sewing Machine, is bound to come in handy. You’ll learn the basics of your machine and how best to take care of it; explore the various accessories that can make your life much easier, plus you’ll find three projects to make inside to give your sewing space a lift. The booklet is included free with your magazine this month – grab a cup of tea and get familiar with your machine!…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Medium-weight faux leather or faux suede fabric: 20x55in ■ Cotton fabric for lining:20x55in ■ Eyelets/ grommets: eight, 7mm ■ Sewing clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Measurements are listed HxW. MATERIALS USED ■ Lining fabric is Figo Moonlit Voyage in Houses from Samantha Claridge Studio: samanthaclaridgestudio.com. CUTTING OUT Step one From the faux leather/suede cut: Main Bag: Cut two 16x14in Strap: 39x3.5in Drawstring: 39x2.5in Adjuster: 2x4in Step two From the lining cut: Lining: two 16x14in BOXING THE CORNERS Step one Take the Main Bag and Lining pieces and cut a 3x3in square out of each of the corners at the bottom of the bag.01 Step two Place your Main Bag pieces with right…

If you need to kickstart your sewing inspiration this month, turn on your TV and tune in to The Great British Sewing Bee – we can’t wait to get stuck in! Turn to page 20 to find out all the behind-the-scenes gossip from Joe and the judges. Discover your dressmaking mojo with our gorgeous Amelia dress and top set, or if you fancy a sewing space upgrade, try our practical projects on page 34. Plus, subscribe today to get a bonus Janome sewing machine worth an incredible £119! Don’t forget to share all your latest projects with us on Instagram @simplysewingmag.…

PORTOBELLO TROUSERS, NINA LEE For a loose-fit trouser that's still flattering, it has to be the high-rise Portobellos! With front pleats, back darts and a concealed zip, these relaxed looking trousers are anything but basic. Wear them year round with a tucked-in tee, jumper or blouse. Available in UK sizes 6–20, ninalee.co.uk. DAWN JEANS, MEGAN NIELSEN PATTERNS If you’re unsure about a wide leg, play it safe with the Dawn Jeans. You can make these with a tapered, straight or wide leg so you can gradually leave a skinny fit behind. Available in US sizes 0–20 and in Curve 14–30, megannielsen.com. WINSLOW CULOTTES, HELEN’S CLOSET PATTERNS Commit to wide legs all year round with the Winslow pattern. You can make shorts, culottes or full-length palazzos. The inverted box pleats add…

FASHION IN FILM Christopher Laverty (£14.99, Laurence King Publishing) No matter how good the plot, it’s not unheard of for us to get distracted by the costume design in films. If you’re the same, this pocket guide celebrating fashion designers’ contribution to cinema is for you! Christopher explores key garments in films such as Breakfast at Tiffany's, and why they’re so memorable. You’ll find stills, fashion images and working sketches inside, too. CROSS STITCH FOR THE EARTH Emma Congdon (£16.99, David & Charles) These nature-focused designs from Emma Congdon are beautiful! Stitch by stitch, you can pledge to look after the planet and build a brighter future. Stitch ‘The World is Full of Magic’ over a seascape, or ‘Unplug and Go Outside’ in front of mountains. The book is printed…

Patrick: “In Sustainability week I loved the made-to-measure challenge. The winning garment was a piece of absolute beauty, and the technique was of couture level and highly exceptional sewing expertise. In Children’s week there is a transformation challenge of wetsuits and pool inflatables into an under- the-sea theme outfit. In that same week the pattern challenge is a baby romper suit and the sewists all did a brilliant job of making adorable romper suits.” Esme: “In Forties week I liked the transformation challenge of making a parachute into a garment. In International week – the made to measure: I loved the Frida Kahlo inspired outfit, as I have been to her house. And I really loved the eight-piece baker boy cap in the pattern challenge in Classic Clothing week –…

The Amelia Set has lots of subtle details to make it your go-to for any occasion, including a waist tie, gathered neckline and a keyhole opening. YOU WILL NEED Fabric, 136–150cm (54–60in) wide ■ Long-sleeve dress: Sizes 8–10: 3.1m (3½yd) Sizes 12–14: 3.2m (3½yd) Sizes 16–18: 3.2m (3½yd) Sizes 20–22: 3.4m (3¾yd) ■ Short-sleeve top: Sizes 8–10: 1.7m (2yd) Sizes 12–14: 1.8m (2yd) Sizes 16–18: 1.8m (2yd) Sizes 20–22: 2m (2¼yd) ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 10x75cm (4x30in) ■ Button: one 9mm self-cover button ■ Elastic (long-sleeve dress only): 1mx7mm (11/8ydx¼in) ■ Matching thread NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm (5/8in). FABRICS USED ■ Dress: polyester navy spot crepe, minerva.com. ■ Top: Lydia A Tana Crepe, Liberty, alicecaroline.com. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Viscose, rayon, cotton, cotton voile, silk or viscose crepe. FABRIC…

WHAT IS A RAGLAN SLEEVE? 'Raglan' is the name given to the style of sleeve that reaches all the way up to the neckline of the garment, incorporating the shoulder into the top of the sleeve. It’s a comfortable design that allows for a much greater range of movement, making it ideal for sports clothing – such as the classic baseball T-shirt, which is perhaps one of its most iconic uses. IT’S ALL IN THE FIT Because a raglan joins together the neckline, back, shoulders and front of a garment, it’s essential that you take accurate measurements before you draft this sort of sleeve. You may need to make several pattern adjustments in the early stages, but the comfortable fit you achieve will be worth the extra hassle. Broadly speaking,…

In this workshop Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor Roisin walks you through the process of inserting both regular and invisible zips. Although they might seem like a daunting task, zips can take your projects to a new level and open up the range of projects you can take on. Once you can neatly insert a zip, you can make a range of garments, homewares and accessories. It takes practice but grab a zip and some scrap strips of fabric and follow along with us using the instructions opposite. You just need a little time and patience! Keeping your samples in a notebook with a reminder of how you achieved a nice finish is a great way to improve your skills and then you can refer back to your method in…

It’s easy to assume that anyone running a sewing business has been sewing from childhood. Not true in the case of Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette, “I didn’t even learn to sew until I was 30!” laughs Jenny. “When I first started sewing, I couldn’t even imagine being good enough to make a T-shirt, so running a sewing pattern business wasn’t something that even crossed my mind.” KICKSTARTING CHANGE So, where did it all begin? The journey to setting up Cashmerette Patterns was a long one for Jenny, who started sewing clothes because she was so frustrated at not being able to find clothes that fit her, or clothes that she liked, in shops. “I’m around a size 18/20 and have a H-cup bust,” says Jenny. “At the time, there were…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Loose-fitting top ■ Ponte or similar stable knit: 1.5m (1¾yd) ■ Walking foot (optional) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ A walking foot can help prevent stretching when sewing with knit fabrics and can also help to pattern match striped fabric. CUTTING OUT Step one Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, selvedge to selvedge. If you’re using a striped fabric like ours then aligning and pinning the stripes together helps ensure you can pattern match your front and back pieces later on.01 Step two Centre your template top on your fabric. Using it as a guide (and keeping in mind how your top fits you compared to how you want your dress to fit you) cut around it at the underarm and side…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1.5mx150cm (1¾ydx59in) ■ Contrasting fabric: 50x150cm (20x59in) ■ Strong thread and needle for gathering ■ Erasable fabric marker/tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread NOTES ■ This is a patternless apron, these measurements are based on a UK size 10/12. Adjust accordingly to suit your own body size. FABRICS USED ■ Main fabric: Bombay Spring fabric from Lisa Comfort Home (lisacomforthome.com) ■ Contast fabric: Palm fabric from Lisa Comfort Home (lisacomforthome.com) CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Skirt: 60x60cm (235/8x235/8in) Pockets: two 24x21cm (9½x8¼in) Bib: 38x34cm (15x133/8in) Step two From the contrast fabric cut: Pocket Contrast: two 7x21cm (2¾x8¼in) Waist Ties: two 150x7cm (59x2¾in) Bib Tie: 120x7cm (47¼x2¾in) MAKE THE SKIRT Step one Turn a double hem along the bottom and both sides…

Gertie goes above and beyond when it comes to Charm Patterns’ designs and photographs, and the new Cinch-It Dress is no exception! The fit-and-flare dress has plenty of drama and comes with multiple variations – choose from a band or Peter Pan collar; puff or short sleeves, or opt for sleeveless; and sew either heart-shaped or envelope pockets. This pattern is available in sizes 2–22 with separate A-H cup sizes. You can find it at charmpatterns.com, and check out @gertie18 on Instagram for more stunning photography!…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

FIONA HESFORD This month we’re excited to be bringing you an exclusive design from Fiona Hesford of Sewgirl – The Amelia Set. This dress and top combo comes just in time for a spring/summer wardrobe refresh. Find our styling and fabric ideas on page 26. MARTYNA PIETRZAK-SIEPIETOWSKA Martyna is the founder of MadeByMePatterns and the creator of the Kids’ Dungarees included with this issue. We love her designs – they’re so easy to follow and super comfy and cute for little ones. See our fabric suggestions for these on page 48. FAITH ST JULES Our columnist this issue is Faith St Jules, and she’s talking about working through her pattern stash and the joy of using your imagination to make your own mark on a design. Find out where Faith…

Where there has been fabric there has been stitching. And where there has been stitching there has been embellishment. Here’s a few historical facts you may not know... Cross-stitch and embroidery pieces were found in Egyptian tombs dating back from AD 500. In China, embroidery was popular during the Tang dynasty and it is thought that the art travelled west along the Silk Road from AD 818–907. The first famous piece of stitching from the Western world is the Bayeux Tapestry (which isn’t actually a tapestry but a hugely detailed piece of embroidery), depicting the Norman Conquest in 1066. Catherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII, is credited for bringing blackwork to the UK from Spain – did you know she originally came over to marry Henry’s brother…

We’re very excited to share with you the brand-new book to accompany the series this year – The Great British Sewing Bee: The Techniques (publishing 13 May, Quadrille, £15). This book is the ultimate companion no matter what stage you‘re at in your sewing journey. From talking you through your basic sewing kit, helping you choose the perfect fabric, getting started on a new project, and getting familiar with some techniques you‘ll use again and again, this book has it all covered. Keep an eye out for an exclusive offer in our next issue to receive this book as a bonus gift when you subscribe to Simply Sewing!…

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS A gathered bow neckline adds a delicate feminine flourish. MADE FOR COMFORT The empire waistline gives this design a flattering fit. MULTIPLE DESIGN OPTIONS Choose from a mid-length gown, knee-length dress or tunic top. Wilder is a loose-fitting, flowy design from Friday Pattern Company that can be made in a variety of different lengths, from a hip-skimming tunic to a mid-length gown. Flattering raglan sleeves make for a comfortable fit, and a gathered bow adds extra interest to the neckline. fridaypatterncompany.com…

STORAGE TUB An entire room dedicated to sewing is a luxury, so if you’re more restricted with your space, a hanging storage tub could be the answer. You can stay organised without a permanent setup, and they look good too so you won’t mind having them on display! SEWING MACHINE COVER Keep your machine in tip-top condition with a fabric cover to protect it from dust, spills and clumsy family members and pets... This is one of the simplest ways to care for your machine and with a pouch pocket it’s also the best way to keep your WIP tools and materials in one place. PROJECT BAGS These handy project bags are the ideal way to keep your fabric, threads and pattern pieces together so they’re easy to pick up…

Sewing not only builds your wardrove, but it has the power to heal. Since I was a child, I have always loved creating with my hands, and I love to make the most out of projects by stepping out of the expected. If you tell me that a dress should be made out of woven fabric, I will most likely use a knit fabric just to see if there’s more than one way to create something. Like many sewists, one of my first clients to sew for was Barbie. She wasn’t fussy and loved everything that I made for her. Sewing for my Barbie was one of my earlier lessons in sewing to fit, even if I literally sewed the garment onto her and then had to cut her out…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Natural or khaki cotton tote bag ■ Wooden embroidery hoop: 20cm (8in) ■ Chenille needle: size 18 ■ Water soluble fabric marker ■ Basic sewing kit ■ Stranded cotton: DMC colours Dark hunter green (DMC 3345) Light green (DMC 988) Dark green (DMC 890) Red (DMC 816) White (DMC 3865) Indigo (DMC 333) Light pink (DMC 352) Light orange (DMC 3853) Medium yellow (DMC 725) NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates PREPARATION Step one Transfer the pattern onto the tote bag. This entire project will be created using the Double thread method. STITCHING THE STEM AND LEAVES Step one Begin by stitching the stem starting at the base, using the dark hunter green thread and the backstitch. Create the line in the centre of each…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Medium-weight cotton canvas: 35x110cm (14x44in) ■ Foam interfacing: 35x110cm (14x44in) ■ Faux leather: 3x50cm (1¼x20in) ■ Gold Chicago screws x 4: 6mm (¼in) ■ Toy stuffing ■ Bradawl ■ Flat-head screwdriver ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Front/Back: two 34x52cm (133/8x20½in) Step two From the foam interfacing cut: Front/Back Foam: two 34x52cm (133/8x20½in) Step three From the faux leather cut: Straps: two 23cm (91/8in) MAKING THE MAT Step one Lay out one of the Front/Back Foam pieces, then lay a fabric piece on top right side (RS) up, the other fabric piece RS down, and the second Front/Back Foam piece on top. The shorter edges should meet but with 1cm (3/8in)…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton canvas print: 1mx145cm (11/8ydx57in) ■ Cotton canvas solid: 1.5mx140cm (1¾ydx55in) ■ Vlieseline Style-Vil Fix: 1.25m (1½yd) ■ Vlieseline G700 iron-on woven interfacing: 1.25m (1½yd) ■ Cord: 1.25m (1½yd) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is1cm (3/8in). ■ Cutting measurements are WxH. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ Print four copies of the circle base template and interfacing template. FABRICS USED ■ Cotton canvas print: C-69303, Art Gallery Fabrics, minerva.com ■ Cotton canvas solid: JLC0085-Sky, Baby blue, Art Gallery Fabrics, minerva.com ■ Interfacing provided by Vlieseline ladysewandsew.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the canvas print: Main Bucket Outer: 118.25x37cm (47x145/8in) Handles: four 16.5x5cm (6½x2in) Circle Base: one using the template Step two From the canvas solid:…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric: 30x40cm (12x16in) ■ Quilting cotton: 30x40cm (12x16in) ■ Size 8 Perle cotton: white, yellow, green and blue ■ Embroidery hoop (optional) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates WOVEN PICOT STITCH Step one Pin through the fabric with a quilter’s pin from the tip to the base of the picot stitch. With your needle and thread, come up to the left of the base of the picot. Pass it behind the pin, then go back down to the right of the base of the picot. Come up again at the centre of the picot base and pass the thread behind the pin again.01 Step two Weave the needle under the right-hand side, over…

I’ve only been sewing for about seven months , but it feels like I’ve been sewing forever. Of everything I’ve made, this set is my current favourite. I found these fabrics at a charity shop a while ago and they’d been sitting in my room ever since. Recently, I started thinking about how well the colours go together and decided to finally use them. At first I wanted to make a dress, but I think trousers were a better decision, and I wanted the top to be bold enough to complement the trousers without overpowering them. I loved both sides of the pink fabric so I decided to use the fabric reverse for one of the legs, and I created a pattern for them using a pair of my own…