Indholdsfortegnelse for 96 i Simply Sewing

This issue is all about joy, love, inclusion and education as we celebrate Pride month. We’ve worked with some wonderful contributors from the LGBTQ+ community to look at the future of the fashion and sewing industry and to bring you some special Pride-themed projects. Find the Instagram handles for our makers and writers on each page and give them a follow. Also included this month is The Amena Set with three pattern variations in UK sizes 6-30. Finally, paying homage to the beautiful city we’re based in, the Bristol Backpack is a stylish accessory for summer wanderings. Enjoy! WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

PSST: Turn the page for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your Amena Set with us using #SimplySewingMag. We know it’s no secret that dressmaking isn’t the cheapest hobby out there, so we love a pattern that we can get our money’s worth from. With the Amena Set, by Becky Perry of Pattern Paper Scissors (patternpaperscissors. etsy.com), you can mix and match hem and sleeve lengths to sew lots of variations! Designed for lightweight fabrics, this relaxed-fit top and tiered dress pattern is just in time for summer. YOU WILL NEED Fabric, Dress A (all sizes): 3.9mx150cm Fabric, Dress B (all sizes): 3.4mx150cm Fabric, Top (all sizes): 2.3mx150cm Iron-on interfacing: 40x90cm Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm. ■ Finished back lengths: Dress A: approximately 113cm Dress…

S9043 Mimi G Style for Simplicity These tailored trousers have a straight leg, front pleats and side and back pockets. Available in EU sizes 44–52 (US 34–42). Jedediah Pants Thread Theory These chino-style trousers can also be made as shorts. They have a slim, casual fit with slash front pockets. Available in US sizes 30–40. Men’s Tunic Wardrobe by Me This pull-on tunic features a banded collar and a front placket as well as a centre back pleat for comfort. Available in sizes 2XS–4XL.…

1 WHERE TO START? “One of the joys of sewing is making clothing to fit your body just right, and this means being able to modify and adjust sewing patterns where necessary. As a non-binary person who prefers a more androgynous gender presentation, it can be a challenge to know where to start. I’m not a man or a woman – so do I start from a men’s pattern, or from a women’s pattern? When none of the models shown look like me, it can be hard to visualise if adjustments will even work. There are a few gender-neutral patterns around nowadays, but they tend to be baggy, looser items, in order to fit such a large variety of bodies. What about more fitted garment options? I prefer straight-fitting clothing…

■ Slimline 3 Table lamp – (as featured on pages 30-35) this portable lamp is perfect for embroidery and flat sewing. With four changable brightness levels and a clamp to attach to any desk, you can tailor your use to make your sewing and crafting as easy as possible. Available for £139.99. Turn to p16 for your chance to win one! ■ Sewing Machine Lamp – for focused light to help with delicate precision work, there’s no better choice! This compact lamp comes with two self-adhesive mounts to attach to your sewing machine or desk and is ultra flexible so you can angle the bright light wherever needed. Available for £26.99. Daylight is an innovative specialist lighting provider for crafters and more.daylightcompany.com…

1 Make your top in a breezy lightweight knit for summer or a heavier weight for the colder months. An open weave would also work well for a summery boho crochet top without sleeves. 2 Extend the side seams to make this into a tunic or dress. You could also shorten them to create a crop top. 3 If you are lengthening the top into a dress, try adding a tie belt and stitch simple belt loops to the waistband for an added detail. 4 Sew a trim to the hem to give the top a summery feel. Tassels, pom-pom trim or ribbing would all work well. You could also add trim to a lengthened/shortened version for an embellished dress/crop top. 5 For a glam evening look, use a silky,…

Ties are a great way to use up small amounts of fabric and to show off fun prints/textures. Try a satin jacquard or a printed sateen for a luxe tie; you could also use lightweight upholstery fabric for a vintage look. As Emery has shown, this is a great way to display a bold print! Visit youtube.com for a range of knot tutorials. Gone are the clip-on school tie days! Learn how to tie a Windsor knot, an Atlantic knot or a Victoria knot! If you are giving your tie as a gift, add a small embroidery monogram to the outer or the lining fabric as a simple way to personalise the design. Initials, a short message or a special date are some of our favourite ideas. Make a set…

YOU WILL NEED Scraps of various lengths in the seven rainbow colours (2½in or larger) FQ for Backing: one Square wadding: 12in FQ for Binding: one NOTES ■ Seam allowance is ¼in ■ Finished size: 5½in square ■ FQ: 18x21in PREPARATION This is a great project for using up scraps by sewing them together into longer strips. These strips are then sewn to the wadding square. Step one On the 12in wadding square draw a line diagonally across the middle, then another line ¾in away from this line towards the left. Draw another line ¾in away, this time towards the right. Step two From these second lines, continue to draw lines diagonally at 1½in intervals. This will help with your fabric placement. Step three Gather together your scraps and create…

Protect your precious belongings from unpredictable summer showers with Debbie Wainhouse’s (@hila.studio) lined, waterproof backpack pattern, included with your issue. With a contrast base and striped webbing, The Bristol Backpack is a stylish and practical accessory you won’t want to be without. Debbie’s instructions are clear and easy-to-follow, so if you’re new to bag-making this is a great place to begin. Fancy making one just like ours? Find all of the fabric and supplies we used at Minerva (minerva.com)…

YOU WILL NEED Orangecuddleplushfabric 75x50cm White cuddle plush fabric: 52x23cm Black cuddle plush fabric: 35x25cm Black wool felt: 3x2cm White wool felt: 5x3cm Lightweight quilt wadding: 21x20cm Black stranded cotton Polyester toy filling: 200g Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE ■ Approximately 23cm tall. FABRICS USED ■ Shannon Cuddle Plush fabrics in Orange, White and Black. NOTES ■ Find the templates on page 93 or download and print from gathered. how/ss-templates . ■ Fabric measurements are WxH. ■ Use 6mm seam allowances throughout. ■ Arrows on templates indicate direction of plush fabric pile. ■ Always tack before sewing. CUTTING OUT Step one Download and print the templates. Step two From the orange fabric, cut: Body Side A: one pair Body Side C: one pair Body Side E: one pair Tail…

We're so proud to be able to bring you this bumper issue - our biggest yet! The team have worked so hard to bring you all these wonderful patterns to sew (the Amena Set is already an office favourite!). As we dig out our brightest fabrics for our new summer garments, we're supporting and celebrating Pride month, too. Inside, you'll find fascinating features on the likes of inclusivity in craft and degendering fashion (plus lots of really fun makes to spread joy!). Sewing really is for everyone - so, come on in! It's great to have you here. Share the love, join the conversation@SimplySewingMag.…

I learned to sew as a kid, and picked it up again in 2013 when I was in grad school. I’m an art historian, so thinking about the ways we communicate through material culture and the things we make has always interested me. In 2017, I wrote a post on my personal sewing blog, Rare Device, about the frustrations I was feeling with many of the heteronormative assumptions made in the sewing world. For instance, the assumption that all sewists were heterosexual, cisgender women; that if we sew menswear it was for our boyfriends or husbands; or that we all sought the same concept of ‘flattering’ in our garments. I wanted a community space where queer and trans sewists could come together, see one another’s makes, and discuss the ways…

QUEER CRAFT MONTHLY Pack up your works-in-progress and take them along to the Queer Craft monthly club night hosted at Make Town. You can’t take your sewing machine along, so this is the perfect opportunity to focus on those fiddly hand-sewn finishes that you’ve been putting off. Head to make.town to find out when the next meet-up is. FESTIVAL OF QUILTS 2022 18–21 AUGUST The annual four-day celebration of patchwork and quilting is returning to the NEC in Birmingham. With workshops, exhibitions and plenty of shopping stalls, it’s a chance to meet and greet experts and fellow sewists. Psst! Turn to page 48 for your chance to win a pair of tickets! thefestivalofquilts.co.uk…

Name: Raph Dilhan (He/him) Instagram handle: @raph_sew_and_so Pattern used: Vogue V8759 and Simplicity/ Mimi G Style S9043 Fabric: Mini Leopard Print Cotton Sateen Fabric stockist: whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk When coming up with a concept for an outfit to make for the Gay Times Honours, I immediately thought of this Vogue shirt pattern. I had already used it to make a gardening shirt for my partner Keith a few months prior and thought it would be a good base to put my own twist on. I paired it with the high waisted trousers by Mimi G Style. SILKY SMOOTH As I wanted my outfit to have high visual impact, I chose to make the whole ensemble out of one luscious fabric and chose glendina. It is an ultra lustrous silk-linen fabric and is…

Whether you’re new to sewing or looking for some project inspo, there’s something for everyone in the Mollie Makes Weekend Sewing bookazine. Inside, you’ll find guides and templates for making garments for the family as well as accessories, toys and homewares which are perfect for gifting. Head over to gathered.how/ bonus-gift to get your free digital bookazine and start making today. Already a newsletter subscriber? Check your email inbox for the download, which will be included in your weekly newsletter.…

COLLETTE RAMAGE (She/her) Designer Collette founded pH7 Patterns in 2021 as an inclusive brand that strips away the restriction of gender-based garments, helping makers of all types, shapes and sizes to build a wardrobe full of classic, modern pieces. ph7patterns.com MATT GAGE (He/him) Matt is a Great British Sewing Bee 2020 finalist and the creator of Keep Britain Sewing, a website that aims to inspire and guide stitchers of all levels with simple projects, forums and an online TV station packed with ideas. keepbritainsewing.com EMERY SMITH (They/them) Emery is a non-binary fabric designer whose designs are inspired by colour, nature and the cosmos. Their earliest career goal was to be the first artist in space, and as a fabric designer with a PhD in Astrophysics, they aren’t too far off.…

Pride month is celebrated in June every year, marking the anniversary of the 1969 Stonewall riots. While businesses colour in their logos with rainbows and Pride posts start to fill our Instagram feeds, it’s prime time to think about our own communities – what it’s like to be part of them as an LGBTQIA+ person and how we can be the best allies we can. “ I LEARNED THAT THERE WERE PLACES WHERE I WOULD BE ACCEPTED AS I WAS AND COULD FLOURISH” What does inclusion and diversity really look like in the craft world? There’s no better person to answer than Mathew Boudreaux, better known as Mister Domestic. Mathew calls himself a ‘polycraftual maker’, meaning there’s no craft he can’t turn his hand to – from quilting to crochet,…

It was crucial for me to create pieces that people felt beautiful in. To wake up and get to do what I love every day – sew and create – makes me feel extremely blessed. Not only do I get to sew and create for myself, I also get to do it for other people through my business, Terrance Williams Designs (terrancewilliamsdesigns.com). My business is my pride and joy; it is my baby, it is the thing that gets me up and gets me motivated every day! I absolutely love being a small business owner. BUILDING A BRAND My sewing journey started when I was in college. I’ve always been really interested in fashion and clothing, but I really got into fashion design in college. I started sketching in a…

This comfy knit top, tunic and dress pattern from Bella Sunshine Designs (bellasunshine designs.com) is a wardrobe must-sew with six variations to make. You're going to love it! YOU WILL NEED Stretch fabric, 135cm wide: ■ Top: Sizes 0–4: 1.6m Sizes 6–20: 1.7m Sizes 22–26: 2.5m Sizes 28–30: 2.6m ■ Tunic: Sizes 2–22: 1.8m Sizes 24–26: 3m Sizes 28–32: 3.1m ■ Dress: Sizes 2–22: 2m Sizes 24–26: 3m Sizes 28–32: 3.1m ■ Clear elastic for shoulder seams, 5mm wide: 1m NOTES ■ Use a 4-way or 2-way stretch knit fabric with at least 50% stretch but no more than 75% stretch. ■ If your overbust is more than 7.5cm smaller than your bust, use the bust adjustment pattern. ■ The pattern is drafted for a 5’5”–5’7” frame. If you are…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 1.5–2mx110cm Elastic, 25mm wide: enough to fit around your waist Brass eyelets, 7mm, and installation kit Cotton cord, 4mm wide: 1m Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. FABRICS USED ■ Sevenberry Kasuri 100% cotton in denim from Minerva, minerva.com RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Cotton, linen or viscose fabric. MAKING THE PATTERN Step one Take a pair of elasticated waist shorts in a similar fabric type to the fabric you intend to use for this project, i.e non-stretch woven fabric in this case. Lay your chosen fabric out folded in half with selvedge edges together. Step two Fold the shorts in half, lining up the side seams and making sure the front crotch is facing out, and lay them…

There’s a wonderful magic involved in taking a piece of fabric and transforming it into a garment you can be proud to wear. Every step in the process has a role to play in the quality and impact of the end result, but don’t underestimate how important it is to pick the right fabric in the first place. A crisp cotton poplin can be your friend when working with the pleats and darts of a summer shirt dress but for a flowing skirt or drapey dress a more fluid fabric like viscose challis will achieve much better results. For the novice dressmaker – and for many more experienced sewists too – the world of fabric can be both magical and mystifying. The choice on offer can feel particularly challenging when…

“Greenpeace has been associated with the rainbow since we first began, it’s an emblem of hope and diversity on all of our ships, and it’s in the name of our flagship – after all, we are all Rainbow Warriors,” explains Willie. “We want to wave that rainbow to celebrate our diverse LGBTQ+ crews, staff and supporters, all around the world. Diversity matters, it’s at the heart of what Greenpeace is about. But queerness is in no way just limited to humans, and we want to take a moment to celebrate some of the fabulous rainbow diversity found in our ocean critters.” Alongside seahorses, albatrosses, starfish, wrasse fish and orcas, the clownfish has a unique characteristic to be celebrated too, as Willie explains: “Not to be outdone, clownfish are all born…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

“When I lived in New York City I got into a horrible habit of buying beautiful fabrics that caught my eye as I wandered the garment district. On one such excursion I found a beautiful pink mesh, embellished with rose gold sequins in an intricate baroque scrolling pattern. I hoarded this fabric for five years before I finally decided I was going to make a dress. However, with such a coveted fabric I knew I needed to make a test garment first – I’ve certainly learned the hard way, trust me. I had some stretch leopard print velvet leftover from a previous project that I chose to use. I made all the necessary changes to the pattern, and quickly realised I had made a stunning new dress. I just had…

BELLA SUNSHINE DESIGNS Melissa Prendergast has been sewing since the age of nine, and in 2015 she was inspired to start her company which she named after her daughter Isabella. Melissa now designs patterns for adults, children and dolls. Find the Maggie Top on page 60. EMILIA BERGOGLIO Emilia Bergoglio is a scientist by day and a maker of all things the rest of the time. The Tokyo-based sewist is passionate about the intersection of gender, dress and culture; turn to page 64 to read their feature about degendering fashion. HANNAH COYLE Hannah shares sewing tutorials against the beautiful backdrop of Melbourne, Australia. Whether it’s gathers, ruffles, elastic or slippery fabrics – Hannah’s got tips to help. Turn to page 51 to find out how to self-draft a cosy knitted…

SAGUARO SET, FRIDAY PATTERN COMPANY The latest pattern from FPC is a woven wonder! The top has a tie closure and can be worn forwards or backwards for two different looks, and the flowy trousers feature roomy pockets and a comfortable drawstring waist. Search for #SaguaroSet on Instagram to see what others are making. Available in US sizes 0–32, fridaypattern company.com. CORA, FASHION WANDERER With a puff sleeve crop top and a ruffle hem midi skirt, this set is a summer wardrobe essential. Whether you’re at home or on holiday, this two-piece outfit is perfect for sunny days spent exploring. There’s a handy video tutorial available to help you make this set, too. Available in UK sizes 4–22, fashionwanderer.etsy.com. THE SIMONE SET, MAVEN PATTERNS A pattern that we can use…

BLACK GIRLS SEW Lesley Ware and Hekima Hapa (£17.99, Abrams) Black Girls Sew: Creative Sewing Projects for a Fashionable Futureis the first book from nonprofit organisation, Black Girls Sew. As well as teaching the basics of sewing and design, the book looks at prominent historical Black figures who have impacted the industry. Readers will learn how to create one-of-a-kind looks that express both their identity and their creativity. STITCH 50 BIRDS Alison Reid (£14.99, David & Charles) Gather some felt and needle and thread and get stitching with Alison Reid’s collection of 50 bird patterns! Garden birds, exotic birds, water birds, birds of prey – they’re all featured in this easy-to-follow book. The patterns are designed for hand sewing, too, so you can sit in the garden and listen to…

Luxury silks and linens are ideal for summer shirts and trousers. Take some inspiration from our picks 1 Try this beautiful Indian Douppion Lapis from Pongees. The 100% silk fabric would make the perfect shirt and trouser set. pongees.co.uk 2 Sew yourself a striking shirt with this bright daffodil yellow silk crepe. The delicious summer tone will instantly brighten your mood. pongees.co.uk 3 This elegant olive green viscose linen blend would make a fantastic summer shirt to keep you cool indoors and out! lamazifabrics.com…

HUY TROUSERS AND MAGGI SWEATER Both of these patterns are gender-neutral and beginner-friendly, making them ideal for those looking to jump into garment creation for the first time. Huy is a pair of smart yet comfortable trousers with an elastic waist, pockets, and the choice of narrow or wide legs. The Maggi sweater features a relaxed fit, raglan sleeves, and cuff, neck and hem bands. melilot.no 1 M7818 JACKET This lined blazer from McCalls can be worn in a number of different ways – go oversized and hike up the sleeves for a retro, eighties look; try something more formal with smart wool suiting; or opt for a soft linen for a relaxed fit. It also features a notched collar, pockets and back slits. sewdirect.com 2 LICHE SHIRT The Liche…

SEAT CUSHION WITH POCKETS YOU WILL NEED Fabric A: (see text), for the main Fabric B: 50x18cm, for the contrast pocket Fabric C: WOFx15cm, for the binding Wadding: 50x30cm Vlieseline F220 iron-on interfacing: 50x18cm Stuffing Buttons: eight Erasable fabric marker Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Fabrics are from Universal Love by Elizabeth Olwen for Cloud9 Fabrics. For stockists visit cloud9fabrics.com. ■ Vlieseline F220 iron-on interfacing provided by vlieseline.com. NOTES ■ Use a 1cm seam allowance. ■ Use a walking foot if you have one. ■ We used roughly WOFx70cm of main fabric, with some left over. MAKING THE PATTERN Step one Lay some newspaper over the chair seat. Draw all the way around the edge in pencil and cut out and check fit. Amend if necessary. Step two Place…

YOU WILL NEED Knitfabricapproximately1.5m (see notes) A T-shirt to use as a base pattern Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ 1.5m of fabric should be enough to create a top in UK sizes 10–16. If you are making a top smaller or larger than this, take an existing T-shirt (that you would use as your template pattern) and measure the front, back and sleeve pieces to calculate how much fabric you will need. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Knit fabric such as jersey, scuba, interlock or ponte de roma. FABRIC USED ■ A stretchy rib knit from Spotlight Australia, spotlightstores.com. DRAFTING THE PATTERN Step one To create the Front Bodice, take the T-shirt that is being used as the base pattern and…

YOU WILL NEED Outerfabric1m Contrast Lining: 30x30cm Medium weight sew-in interfacing for body of tie: 1mx90cm Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm. ■ The outer fabric and interfacing are cut on the bias as this allows the tie to hang and knot well around the neck. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ For the outer fabric of the tie, any stable woven fabric that can be ironed, such as cotton or linen. ■ Interfacing can be anything from cotton canvas to Domette, and you can use two layers if extra structure is needed. FABRICS USED ■ Organic cotton sateen printed with Emery’s design ‘Spectrum Pride Bars’, spoonflower.com. ■ Wool tie canvas interfacing, macculloch-wallis.co.uk. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Front…

It is undoubted that the sewing industry has, in recent years, attempted to make strides to be more inclusive, trying to portray the true diversity of the world we live in. The fashion designer, teacher, and author of the book Sewing Basics for Every Body, Wendy Ward, put it best by stating, “There are more people enjoying sewing than the stereotypical young, slim white woman, which is the image that so often accompanies sewing patterns, books, magazines and blogs. “I was getting tired of seeing this stereotype repeated endlessly,” she added, and I honestly couldn’t agree more. In truth, though, I believe that we cannot truly say we are striving for inclusivity without considering gender inclusivity too, and we cannot do that if we allow the enduring presence of the…

YOU WILL NEED Canvas tote bag Embroidery hoop: 20cm Stranded cotton: see notes for colours and approximate amounts Heat erasable pen or tracing paper Iron-on interfacing (optional) Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED DMC stranded cotton from woolwarehouse.co.uk in the following shades: ■ DMC 310: 300cm ■ DMC 606: 200cm ■ DMC 741: 200cm ■ DMC 307: 250cm ■ DMC 470: 350cm ■ DMC 3846: 400cm ■ DMC 32: 400cm ■ DMC 333: 150cm NOTES ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates. PREPARING THE DESIGN Step one Use the tracing paper or heateraseable pen to transfer the embroidery design to your tote bag.01 ATTACHING THE HOOP Step one Lay out the inner ring of the embroidery hoop and place your cotton fabric over the top. Step two Press the outer ring over…

Minerva has just released its first exclusive range of dressmaking fabric designs, all printed on buttery soft viscose challis base cloth. These fabrics are a beautifully silky and drapey woven viscose with a lovely weight and body. What’s more, as they’re fully opaque, they shouldn’t require lining, even with the lighter coloured prints. The new range is all OEKO-TEX certified too, guaranteeing that no harmful chemicals were used in the production process. There’s a lovely mix of eye-catching…

YOU WILL NEED Denimjacket Stranded cotton in white and rainbow shades Sticky-backed water-soluble stabiliser Embroidery needle Embroidery scissors Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ DMC stranded cotton colours: 3747, 563, 472, 726, 3854, and 3351. ■ Water-soluble stabilizer is Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy. ■ Download the pattern from gathered.how/ss-templates. TRANSFERRING THE PATTERN Step one Print or trace the Be Kind/Rainbow embroidery pattern onto sticky-backed water-soluble stabiliser. Trim any excess stabiliser and then peel and stick it onto the back shoulder panel of the denim jacket. The structure of the fabric and jacket makes it easier to work without an embroidery hoop for this project.01 EMBROIDERING THE DESIGN Step one Working with four strands of stranded cotton thread throughout the project, begin stitching the lettering with light indigo thread. The pattern has…

Improve your dressmaking by getting more familiar with your measurements. In the fold-out chart included with this issue, we guide you through taking accurate measurements and making adjustments so you can achieve the perfect fit, regardless of what you’re making. Samantha Claridge (@samanthaclaridge) has created nine new croquis illustrations for us too which you can use to plan and design your dream garments. Don’t worry about using these up, head to gathered.how/ss-templates to download and print as many as you need.…