Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2025 i Tatler GMT Philippines

You will be reading this letter with us firmly in the fourth quarter of 2025. It is a year that seems to have sped by, with challenges and upheavals, with success and joy well into the mix. We remain steadfast in our goal to bring you the latest news and incisive look into the world of horology. In this issue, we deliver awesome news, trends, recaps and scintillating interviews from people who are keenly involved with timepieces. We are proud to have on the cover Patek Philippe’s Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308 in white gold, a marvel of horological engineering among its novelties at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Our cover story sees us dive deeper into the brand’s latest complications, particularly its new perpetual calendar watches. Tatler GMT converses with…

To many, Bernhard Lederer may be a whisper rather than a roar in the watch world. But for connoisseurs and collectors, his work is legendary. Early in his career, Lederer was best known for his orbital tourbillon—a highly advanced version of the complication featuring a tourbillon cage circling the dial while a balance rotates within it. This double-axis choreography not only improves isochronism but also offers a mesmerising spectacle on the wrist. Then came the Gagarin Tourbillon, created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first human spaceflight. It features a one-minute tourbillon that orbits the dial in 108 minutes, the exact duration of Yuri Gagarin’s orbit. In 2021, he joined the ranks of watchmaking luminaries such as George Daniels and F.P. Journe by successfully interpreting Breguet’s natural escapement into…

It takes a moment to realise you have arrived. There are no showy signs or gleaming façades, just a quietly elegant, whitewashed 17th‑century Bernese‑style farmhouse nestled in the hills of La Chaux‑de‑Fonds, a city known as the home of watchmaking in Switzerland. But those lucky enough to step inside this unassuming building will find themselves in one of Cartier’s most important sanctuaries: the Maison des Métiers d’Art. Tatler GMT was among the few invited to tour these grounds earlier this year for a closer look at Cartier’s exceptional artistic crafts. Opened in 2014, the Maison des Métiers d’Art is both atelier and think tank, designed to preserve rare métiers while pushing the limits of watchmaking and jewellery. Here, sophisticated decorative techniques are nurtured and reimagined in an environment that encourages…

As its 40th anniversary approaches, Frederique Constant finds itself at a pivotal moment in its history. Once the plucky newcomer in the world of accessible Swiss watchmaking, it has grown into a manufacture defined by measured ambition, technical know-how and unshakeable value. We sat down with CEO Niels Eggerding to talk about how the brand has changed—and where it is headed next. Frederique Constant is approaching its 40th anniversary. How would you describe the brand today? Let’s just say we have left adolescence behind and stepped into adulthood. We tried a lot of things and took an entrepreneurial approach—and I loved that energy. But now, we have reached a point where we think more carefully about the consequences before launching into new initiatives. That’s the discipline that comes with maturity!…

Sunday Rose Kidman Urban, the daughter of Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban, is beginning to make her mark in the fashion world. Her runway debut for Miu Miu’s spring-summer 2025 show at Paris Fashion Week signalled her entry into high fashion modelling, following in the footsteps of other celebrity children carving out similar careers. She also appeared in the Italian brand’s spring-summer 2025 campaign. Born in 2008 in Nashville, Tennessee, Sunday has largely grown up out of the spotlight, despite her parents’ fame. She has occasionally accompanied them to red-carpet events such as awards shows and film premieres, giving her early exposure to the entertainment industry. Kidman has spoken about her daughter’s creative interests, including acting and music, hinting that she may have inherited her parents’ artistic talents. Sunday’s recent…

DAVID CHOKRON A specialised watch journalist, David Chokron still finds himself amazed by the ingenuity of watchmaking. He nonetheless favours a pragmatic approach by focusing on the technical quality and ergonomics of the watches he reveals in his articles. Read all about how perpetual calendars are evolving in his article. ANANDHI GOPINATH A passionate writer with wide-ranging interests, Anandhi Gopinath covers the luxury lifestyle scene with a nuanced take on what discerning audiences look for when it comes to the good life. She writes primarily on watches, wheels and whiskies, but will never say no to a good story. For this issue of Tatler GMT, she explores the use of ceramic in watchmaking. OLIVIER MÜLLER This luxury journalist and consultant divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics…

The ticking of heritage timepieces has grown louder in recent years—not merely out of sentimentality, but because the current generation of collectors craves stories, substance and style that endures. Nowhere is this more evident than in the revival of King Seiko, a name that once stood quietly yet confidently within Seiko’s pantheon of horological achievements, and which now returns with renewed relevance. “King Seiko was first created in the Sixties, during an era when Seiko was determined to establish Japan as a leader in fine mechanical watchmaking,” Yukiaki Suganuma, senior vice president of Seiko’s global division, tells Tatler GMT. “It symbolised precision, refinement and bold design: values that remain at the core of Seiko today.” Originally launched as a parallel effort to Grand Seiko, King Seiko sought to express the…

If you’ve ever found yourself hypnotised by the whirling ballet of a tourbillon through a sapphire caseback, you’re not alone. A centuries-old solution to a problem that no longer exists, the complication has spun its way from horological breakthrough to ultimate status symbol. But not everyone is a fan. I sat down with Barry Cheung, partner at Classic Watch Repair and a man who’s seen more tourbillons than most, to talk about the myth, the mechanics and the very human madness behind the most coveted complication in watchmaking. When it was first made, the tourbillon was a mechanical breakthrough. How do you see its role today—does it still have mechanical merit or is it now more of a visual statement? The whole idea of a tourbillon is about offsetting gravity.…

Few are permitted to cross the threshold of Horométrie SA in Les Breuleux, Switzerland—a fortress of innovation disguised as an unassuming cluster of buildings perched more than 1,000m above the world’s noise. In this remote Swiss Jura outpost where winter reigns for half the year, time seems to both stand still and accelerate. In the hush of precision machinery and the gentle hum of human hands at work, the passage of hours is measured not by the ticking of a clock, but by the relentless pursuit of perfection—a synchronised rhythm where the traditional and the avant-garde beat as one. In fact, Richard Mille introduced ladies’ models to its collection from as early as 2005 with the RM 007, just four years after its founding. These were not simply scaled-down versions…

As if his crisp double-breasted suit weren’t enough of a power statement, Gregory Kissling has also opted to go double wristed. The CEO of Breguet is astutely on brand, wearing the Classique Souscription on one wrist and the Type XX Chronographe 2075 on the other. Both pieces belong to Breguet’s 250th anniversary collection, which is being unveiled gradually throughout the year. Kissling plays a pivotal role in overseeing this milestone—a towering task given Breguet’s stature as a trailblazer in modern horology, not to mention the brief timeline between his official appointment in October 2024 and the new year. It is safe to say he has pulled it off with aplomb, enticing collectors old and new with refreshing reinterpretations of historical models, balanced by a striking new invention: Breguet gold. This…

Though it was a chance meeting that brought them together, Keith Bryan Haw and Gen See seemed instantly in sync. Now married with two young girls, the entrepreneurial couple admits to unintentionally matching outfits on the regular—something we ourselves witnessed at their recent photoshoot with Tatler GMT. “We’re lucky because we actually have the same taste in a lot of things, including watches,” says Keith. He recalls his fascination with wristwear starting at an early age, possibly preceding even his notable love of cars. The latter has brought him success in the automotive scene, particularly through his well-regarded supercar modification company, Import Hookup. Add to that his executive leadership at Advance Paper Corporation, his ownership in several of the city’s premier dining and nightlife spots, as well as his creative…

When Patek Philippe unveiled the Cubitus last year, it made a bold statement with the launch of the 45mm version—a daring size that instantly captured attention for its striking architectural presence and modern flair. This year, at Watches and Wonders, the collection grew with the addition of a 40mm version, offering a more classic and versatile alternative. Naturally, this sparked plenty of conversation among watch enthusiasts—including right here at Tatler GMT. One of us champions presence: a watch that commands attention across the dinner table. The other favours proportion, believing that elegance is best expressed in subtler, measured tones. So, in the spirit of good fun (and a healthy editorial rivalry), we decided to put our preferences on the page. What was your initial reaction when you saw the Cubitus?…

REFLECTIVE ART Bvlgari’s groundbreaking Octo Finissimo finds new dimension in a collaboration with South Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan. Echoing his sculptural works, the design centres on a minimalist mirrored dial that is paired with stark black hands and a lightweight titanium case. Limited to 150 pieces, it’s a distilled expression of Ufan’s philosophy: beauty not in complexity, but in presence, silence and the subtle interplay between material and meaning. REFINED DEPTH Two decades after its original debut, the Sub 750T resurfaces sleeker and sharper than ever. Still the largest in Doxa’s arsenal at 45mm, it now boasts a lighter, slimmer case measuring 11.95 mm—its first ergonomic evolution. Available in eight signature dial colours, and paired with a steel ‘beads-of-rice’ bracelet or colour-matched rubber strap, it’s a refined rethink of…

Raise your hand if, at the mere mention of Omega, your mind immediately turns to the Moonwatch. As the first wristwatch to walk on the surface of the Moon, the Speedmaster is well deserving of its hallowed spot in the history books. But beyond the cosmos, Omega has also ruled the oceans with the Seamaster. As one of the key pillars of Omega’s modern catalogue, it is both a rugged instrument—capable of surviving depths of 300m—and a suave companion to James Bond, becoming as much a cultural icon as it is an essential tool for professionals. Its origins, however, were not entirely utilitarian. Introduced in 1948, the Seamaster began life as a dress watch, albeit one designed to ward off water seepage. Conceived as an elegant gentleman’s watch for daily…

Classics last because they adapt. They evolve, experiment and push into new territory. That’s exactly what’s happening to one of watchmaking’s most revered complications: the perpetual calendar. The wave of fresh designs shown since the start of 2025, especially at Watches and Wonders Geneva, proves this point. For years, many saw the perpetual calendar as a finished idea, its definition fixed in stone. After all, it is a mechanism that automatically accounts for the different lengths of months—28, 29, 30 or 31 days—following the Gregorian calendar’s rules and quirks. On top of that, it can show the day, month, leap year status and sometimes a few extra touches that make it irresistible to collectors. And when brands decide to reimagine it, the changes can be subtle or sweeping—affecting how it…

There’s a particular thrill in fastening my Jaeger-LeCoultre onto my wrist before setting out for the maison’s manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. It provides a sense of connection to a lineage of innovation that began in 1833, when Antoine LeCoultre first set up his workshop in this remote Swiss valley. Our small group of editors left the frenetic energy of Watches and Wonders behind in Geneva and the city faded into the rolling green of the Jura—a gentle transition from the world of commerce to the world of craft. As the air grew crisper, the conversations in the car turned to the legends of Jaeger-LeCoultre: its more than 1,200 calibres, 430 patents and reputation as the “watchmaker of watchmakers”. We pull up to the complex with its historic façade,…

British actor Henry Cavill has long been associated with roles that evoke strength, integrity and understated power. These qualities make his ongoing partnership with Longines feel like more than just another celebrity endorsement; rather, it reflects a shared value system built around heritage, precision and quiet confidence. As Cavill helps introduce the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925, we sat down for a conversation that went beyond watches and into what makes Cavill tick. “Longines timepieces are not only beautiful, with that classic understated elegance the brand is known for, but they also come with the storied history of pioneers. Longines were at the forefront during a time of true adventure, when travelling the globe was still the stuff of stories and legend,” Cavill reflects, pointing to the brand’s aviation…