Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2023 i Tatler GMT

It was serendipity that led me to my first watch—a vintage Rolex Cellini. I bought it at a small watch fair with my hard-earned money, an inaugural step that ignited my drive for self-reliance and perseverance. Something in me told me that I had earned my stripes the day I brought it home. There have been several watches since that one, but every time I gaze into its yellow gold dial and consider its modest bearing, it reminds me to appreciate the rewards of diligent accomplishment, of humble beginnings, and the spirit of human endeavour. It also reminds me of the deep emotional connections people form with their watches. That watch still speaks to me of persevering spirit and holding true to oneself against life’s pressures, against all the odds…

The LUC collection by Chopard is terrifically diverse. Each model is classic and complex, and collectors can choose between diamond-dusted bezels and yellow-gold accents, orbital moon phase displays and manual-wind tourbillons. This line was state of the art when it was unveiled in 1997, and cemented Chopard’s reputation as a manufacturer of in-house movements. Fans will welcome the decision for the maison’s craftspeople to revisit the first timepiece in the collection, the LUC 1860. The new iteration, the LUC 1860 in Lucent Steel, now takes centre stage, and, with its warm, coppery glow and subtle, salmon-flushed dial, it’s set to make even more headlines than its namesake. Chopard is one of a handful of independent, family-owned watchmakers that still exist in Switzerland, so it makes sense that its designers breathe…

In a corner of the reception room of his apartment, he politely welcomes his guest. One can easily imagine that the subject of their discussions is the conquest of the sky. It is a completely ordinary scene—apart from the fact that the host and his visitor are perched on furniture raised off the ground. The little story surrounding this photo dated circa 1900 tells us that Alberto Santos-Dumont had acquired this strange habit in order to acclimatise to the effects of altitude. This aviation pioneer from Brazil was known for his eccentricity as well as his visionary spirit at a time when aeronautics was still in its infancy. An adventurer at heart and an impeccably groomed dandy, he never shied away from experimentation. He shared this daring temperament with his…

Hublot never shies away from breaking through the clutter with some of the most gorgeously daring designs in the market. What is your inspiration? The philosophy is always to be innovative and creative, and always try to be unique, different and first in everything that we do, based on our DNA, which is the art of fusion—connecting tradition with innovation. So every time, we have to come up with a product that has something different from a traditional watch brand; that’s why we succeed. Because if we make the same watches as everybody [else, it] doesn’t make sense. So how can we [differentiate ourselves]? We can [do it] through materials, using modern materials like rubber—we [were] the first brand to use rubber—ceramic, sapphire, carbon fibre. We’re always trying to break…

TRENDS Celebrities around the world have long shown us that there’s more than one way to wear a watch. They push boundaries with unconventional, never-before-seen styling choices—elevating timepieces from luxury accessories to becoming the showstopper of a look. Take a page out of their book and experiment with different ways to wear your favourites. STACK THEM UP There’s no reason to restrict yourself to wearing just one watch at any given time: make a statement and stack your full collection of timepieces on your wrist. If you’re just dipping a toe in the trend, you can start simple with two of your favourite watches in the same hue, taking a cue from style icon, Princess Diana, as seen in this picture shot in the 1980s. DOUBLE TROUBLE If multiple watches…

OLIVIER MÜLLER Olivier Müller is a luxury journalist and consultant. He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics for more than a dozen magazines and specialist websites in Europe. He is also a regular speaker at events, and author of several reference books. For this issue, he delves into the technology behind the Grand Seiko Tentagraph. JOY CORTHÉSY A talented and passionate photographer, Joy Corthésy uses her endlessly imaginative lens to stage the most beautiful watches in an original way through photo shoots that are a visual treat for watch lovers. DAVID CHOKRON Paris-based journalist David Chokron admits to being in awe of the power, poetry and ingenuity of watchmaking. However, he takes a pragmatic approach by focusing his writing on the watches’ technical and ergonomic qualities.…

UP CLOSE PERSONAL When Morgan Stanley’s Top 20 Swiss Watch Company Ranking 2022 was released earlier this year, one name stood out—the French luxury brand Hermès. While many others on the list are dedicated watchmakers with centuries of expertise, Hermès is a relatively young player in the space, with the brand’s watch division, Hermès Horloger, having started production in 1978. This, however, gives the brand a unique advantage: in the traditionally conservative world of Swiss haute horlogerie, it has stood out for its French flair and creativity. Laurent Dordet, the CEO of Hermès Horloger, has been with Hermès since 1995 and took over the reins of the watch division in 2015. One of the reasons the maison has emerged as a formidable force in the industry in such a short…

The biennial Only Watch charity auction returns this year with no less than 62 lots from 73 watchmakers. Now in its 10th edition, it was founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, with the purpose of raising funds to accelerate research in Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD), a genetic condition that leads to the progressive weakening of all muscles, including the heart. Held under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco, it mobilises the watch industry to create unique timepieces every two years to be auctioned off. All proceeds go towards research on DMD and other genetic diseases. Some of the biggest names in the industry, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith, as well as independent players like Andersen Genève and Rexhep Rexhepi, are supporting the charity auction this year, and all…

Longines earned a stellar reputation in its early days as a producer of timekeepers of superlative precision. Over time, its intimate association with sporting events, from the Royal Ascot to the Birmingham 2022 Commonwealth Games, has only burnished its reputation in this department. Yet it has taken more than 50 years for Longines to revisit the flyback chronograph, a mechanism it had a pioneering role in developing. Well, wait no more: the flyback is back in the new Longines Spirit Flyback and it looks like it’s here to stay. But first, let’s rediscover Longines’ rich chronograph legacy. THE WONDER YEARS Sporty and sophisticated, the chronograph has a long history, dating back to the early 19th century. Longines was one of the pioneers of the pursuit of elapsed timing: in 1878,…

Manufacture Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage Department is a discreet little office that offers a window to the past. Here, all eyes and conversations converge on the same subject: the extraordinary heritage of the world’s oldest watch manufacturer which has enjoyed uninterrupted activity since 1755. Its rich heritage includes bold creations showcasing inimitable technique and elegance. The Heritage Department keeps a meticulous record of old registers and correspondence as well as rare timepieces procured at auctions. TWO CENTURIES OF SPECIAL DISPLAYS Watches that display more than regular timekeeping first appeared in the 18th century with the jumping hour. Vacheron Constantin’s first timepiece with jumping hours dates back to the early 19th century, in 1824. It was not until a little over 100 years later that the maison’s creativity was expressed through a…

While he has been fascinated by watches from a young age thanks to his watchmaker father, it wasn’t until Jackie Ho bought a timepiece as a reward to himself for a promotion that his passion for horology was truly ignited. Opening the box of his first significant watch purchase in 2012 gave him enough of a thrill that he decided to become a serious collector. As he began collecting more watches, such as an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a vintage double-signed Girard Perregaux and a vintage Omega Seamaster, he developed an interest in vintage Rolexes and neo-vintage independent brands like Daniel Roth. Ho, who works in finance, was born in Hong Kong but moved to Ireland with his family in the 1980s. He returned to the city in 2018 to…

Henry Chu’s office reflects his inventive spirit. On some days, he lounges by the swimming pool adjoining his workspace, seeking inspiration for his next AI creation. On others, he immerses himself in the art adorning his walls—paintings by Japanese, Hong Kong and other Asian artists that fuel his imagination—and an AI screen spanning the entire length of one wall of his studio, reflecting his passion for innovative technology. But he is equally passionate about the mechanical marvels on his wrists: luxury Swiss watches. What began five years ago as an interest in Apple Watches has transformed into a deep dive into the mysteries of mechanical timepieces. “I was fascinated by the idea of a watch powered by my wrist movements alone,” he says. He recalls his first mechanical timepiece, a…

Nestled in the picturesque Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, Hôtel des Horlogers stands as a testament to the rich history of watchmaking and offers a unique experience for its guests. Owned by renowned watchmaker Audemars Piguet, this luxury hotel is more than just a place to stay; it embodies the spirit of the Vallée and creates a harmonious connection between nature, timekeeping craftsmanship and unparalleled hospitality. In an exclusive interview with André Cheminade, general manager of Hôtel des Horlogers, we delve into what makes this hotel exceptional and who it caters to. One of the distinguishing features of Hôtel des Horlogers is its remarkable design and architecture, which seamlessly integrate with the topography of Vallée de Joux. Designed by the acclaimed Bjarke Ingels Group, known for creations such as the…

POETIC COMPLICATIONS In our inaugural issue, we spoke about Van Cleef & Arpels’s Lady Féerie watch launched at Watches & Wonders—a delicious pink piece that stole our hearts. Just a few months on, the jeweller-watchmaker has expanded the line with the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée watch. A figure appears mid-dance on the dial with plique-à-jour enamel wings which become the focal point, within a 40mm white gold case, while white mother-of-pearl numerals complement this whimsical staging. The bezel is sculpted in 18-karat white gold and embellished with diamonds while a guilloché purple enamel dial forms the backdrop for the dance. Powered by a self-winding mechanical movement fitted with a retrograde mechanism, the complication allows the hands to point gracefully at the time, enhancing its poetic vision. Supplied with interchangeable straps…

They may be designed to milk nostalgia, but these are not the Mickey Mouse watches from your childhood. Still, the cartoon characters bring a sense of levity to the serious complexity of high-end watchmaking, a touch that somehow makes an 18-karat gold watch less intimidating—and perhaps even more relatable. Take, for instance, Oris’ latest ProPilot that features an image of Kermit, the beloved banjo-playing Muppet frog. On the first day of every month, Kermit appears in the date counter at six o’clock, his joyful face certain to bring a smile to yours. Taking a cue from Kermit, the entire dial is also in an atypical shade of green. Otherwise, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a solid watch with a 39mm titanium case powered by in-house calibre 400 with a…

Matthias Breschan joined Longines at the most inopportune time. It was July 1, 2020, the early days of the pandemic. “The day I joined, most of the points of sales around the world were closed. It was a very difficult and very complicated situation,” said Breschan, who came over from Rado, where he had been the CEO for nine years. He wasn’t too concerned: Longines is consistently among the top 10 Swiss watch brands, with sales of over CHF1 billion (US$1.3billion) in 2022—one of only seven brands to achieve this feat. Breschan was confident that this buoyant condition would continue. Tatler GMT met Breschan in Bangkok, where Longines presented its 2023 novelties earlier this year, to find out more about his plans for the brand. How did the pandemic influence…

The history of timekeeping devices goes back to when ancient civilisations first observed astronomical bodies as they travelled across the sky. Pre-dating the clocks and watches we rely on today, humankind developed a range of fascinating mechanisms to record the passing of time over the years. Sundials originated from ancient Egypt and were later used by the Babylonians, Greeks and Chinese. Medieval Islamic water clocks were unrivalled in their sophistication until the mid-14th century. Incense clocks, which may have been invented in India, were being used in China by the 6th century. And then there was the hourglass, a European invention and one of the few reliable methods of measuring time at sea. But while timekeeping as a concept existed all over the world, it was in the west that…

Some watches are pioneers, the first to take a major leap forward and establish a benchmark. The Royal Oak Offshore is one such. In terms of size and style, the Royal Oak Offshore redefined contemporary standards. At the time of its release in 1993, a watch that measured 40mm in diameter and almost 12mm thick was considered huge, and yet it was into this modest landscape that the Royal Oak Offshore made its first appearance. MORE IS MORE This new chronograph was based on the “6, 9, 12” configuration, considered sportier than the “3, 6, 9” style of the Royal Oak chronographs. The tachymeter scale on the flange said it all, being graduated up to 500 km/h. The diameter was expanded to 42mm, the thickness to 14mm and the weight…