Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2024 i Tatler GMT

Let me share with you a small, personal revelation I had not long ago. There I was, in the hushed sanctum of a watchmaking workshop, the air redolent with the scent of polished brass and aged leather. As I watched the master at his bench, a delicate balance wheel in hand, I was struck by an epiphany—time, in its relentless march, is the most democratic of forces, and yet how we choose to measure it is an art form that reflects our deepest cultural roots and aesthetics. Our first in The Year of the Dragon, this issue of Tatler GMT is a love letter to that very art form as it flourishes across Asia. We take you behind the scenes of Minhoon Yoo’s world, where the tick of each second…

OVER THE MOON This limited-edition 41.5mm 18-karat red gold astronomical watch from Arnold & Son features a hand-wound movement displaying hours, minutes and moon phases, while the transparent caseback reveals a second moon phase indicator. The aventurine glass dial, available in black or blue, depicts a polished, hand-engraved 18-karat rose gold dragon over a hand-painted landscape with luminescent constellations, while a shimmering mother-of-pearl moon with luminescent details rotates above. The domed sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. Paired with an alligator strap with matching pin buckle, this finely crafted timepiece with elegant astronomical complications stands out for its artisanal detailing. SUCH A BLAST This limited-edition timepiece from Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin honours the Lunar New Year and the Chinese zodiac with a hand-engraved and micro-painted 5N rose gold dragon coiling…

In the world of luxury, attention to detail is what separates the exceptional from the ordinary. Whether it’s the sleek design of a car, the precision in a diamond’s cut, the majesty of a yacht or the craftsmanship of a custom-made jacket, this dedication is a universal principle. Chanel, known for its haute couture, exemplifies this dedication to craftsmanship, standing unmatched in the industry. However, the brand’s significant involvement in the high-end world of watchmaking is not as widely recognised. It all began in 1987 when Chanel made a historic entry into haute horlogerie with the introduction of the Première watch. This move wasn’t just an expansion of Chanel’s luxury offerings but a tribute to its storied heritage, drawing inspiration from the iconic shape of its Place Vendôme location and…

GUIDE The HM11 Architect seamlessly blurs the boundaries between architecture and watchmaking. Inspired by the post-war architecture of the 1960s, creator Maximilian Büsser envisaged a watch that was not just worn but lived in, mirroring the organic, humanistic designs of the era. A central flying tourbillon, reminiscent of a zygote undergoing cell division, forms the heart of the watch, with four symmetrical volumes extending outwards, creating the timepiece’s four “rooms”. The first three “rooms” of the watch display hours and minutes, the power reserve indicator and a thermometer. The fourth room is dedicated to time setting and features an oversized crown made of sapphire crystal. To wind the watch’s four-day power reserve, simply rotate the entire case on its base. This winding system is so efficient that a 90-degree rotation…

The Curta calculator embodies mechanical brilliance from an era before digital technology: it’s a device that dramatically expanded the realm of manual computation. Conceived by Austrian engineer Curt Herzstark in the 1930s, this handheld marvel was inspired by his deep experience in precision mechanics, a legacy from his family’s enterprise in calculating machines. Herzstark’s ambition led to the creation of the Curta, a calculator that bridged a significant market void. Taking place as it did in the Buchenwald concentration camp during the Second World War, the creation of the Curta is not merely a tale of technological progress but also a narrative of human endurance and determination. It stands as a crucial landmark in the history of computation, capturing the final advancement of mechanical calculating devices on the cusp of…

Joining Tatler GMT as the new watch director in Hong Kong fills me with great excitement and a deep sense of responsibility. Amid the significant growth of the watch industry in recent years, particularly during the pandemic, it’s become clear that a sustainable future requires more than speculative interest. 2023 brought its challenges but, as we look towards the rest of 2024, I am more enthusiastic than ever to share this horological journey with you. This is an ideal time to reignite our collective passion for the art of watchmaking and to appreciate these marvels beyond their investment value. Tatler GMT isn’t just about sharing knowledge; it’s about sharing a love for the craft. We invite you to explore the history, intricacy and artistry behind each timepiece with us. This…

Life in Gold All-gold watches are making a comeback Chiming Beauty The sound of luxury never looked better, thanks to these minute repeaters…

RESORT TO THIS Embrace the elegance of the Blancpain x Swatch Ocean of Storms watch as part of your resort wear this summer. This timepiece marries ecological mindfulness with carefree travels. Complement it with outfits in neutral shades that whisper quiet luxury and understated canvas sneakers, then stack your wrist with casually elegant bracelets and add a retro-modern pair of sunglasses. POP IT LIKE IT’S HOT How do you add a pop of audacity to the classic corporate look? Pick a timepiece with bags of personality, like Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Green Saxem; throw on an ever-so-chic trench coat and add a sleek, minimalistic messenger bag to carry those all-important mogul-in-the-making documents. LA DOLCE VITA The Bulgari Bulgari watch is back, dripping in 18-karat rose gold. Wear this new-age classic…

SMALLER WATCH CASES For years, larger watch cases dominated the scene, with 47mm diameters being quite common. However, a significant shift is under way, and the market is increasingly moving towards more refined and comfortable sizes. We began to see such a transformation several years ago, from 42mm to 40mm; now that 38mm is becoming more prevalent, this downsizing trend is hard to miss. There’s even a growing conversation around 36mm watches gaining favour. This change is more than just a fashion statement; it’s a reflection of a broader shift in consumer preferences towards elegance and comfort. The trend is towards smaller watches reminiscent of the classic styles of the mid 20th century, hinting at a revival of vintage aesthetics in modern watchmaking. Brands across price ranges have been focusing…

In November 2023, Panerai cut the ribbon to unveil Casa Panerai Paris, its flagship store at the iconic Avenue des Champs Elysées. Located within a historic mid-19th-century edifice, the Parisian boutique is a fusion of French baroque and Italian style, a space where every meticulously restored moulding and artisan-crafted detail exudes an old-world charm with new-age luxuries. At the opening, the Italian watchmaker also introduced a boutique-exclusive timepiece inspired by the Radiomir collection. The original Radiomir watches were developed in the 1930s when Panerai began supplying the royal Italian navy with precision timekeeping instruments. These early watches were designed to be legible under the extreme conditions faced by navy divers, featuring large, luminous dials and robust constructions. The distinctive cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and luminescent material, which was originally radium,…

Asia, the continent of contrasts, has had much to offer the world, and that includes the world of horology. Asia’s tryst with watchmaking dates back to ancient Chinese dynasties such as the Han (202 BC-9AD), Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279), when the measurement of time was a pursuit of both practical and philosophical significance. “Timepieces are living works of art,” says Sauwong Yeung, a Hong Kong-based collector of ancient Chinese pocket watches. “They are not just instruments for recording time; they embody a combination of humanity, history, art, aesthetics, mathematics, physics, astronomy and the creative thinking of watchmakers. Antique watches, in particular, are like teachers, representing the culmination of the craftsmanship of past artisans.” Another champion of Asia’s role in horological innovations was the late Kiu Tai Yu. Born in…

The name Gérald Genta is synonymous with the iconic forms of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. But for Evelyne Genta, his partner in life and business, her favourite works of her late husband are the ones he made under his name. “Gérald put so much into the Swiss [watch] industry that he deserves to be known for more than the Nautilus. I feel that he should be known for his own watches too because that’s where his DNA is,” says Evelyne. She established the Gérald Genta Heritage Association to properly tell the story of one of the pre-eminent figures in modern watchmaking. One would be hard-pressed to think of a greater watch designer, and Gérald is often regarded as the Picasso of watches. “I’m impressed…

There are watch influencers and dedicated watch appreciation accounts aplenty on social media—and there is certainly one for every kind of horological enthusiast. Still, it is very much a male-dominated space, even though things are changing with the rise of female watch collectors such as Singapore-based Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh. The close friends are co-founders of TickTockBelles (@ticktockbelles), a women-centric timepiece appreciation community that they started on Instagram in 2022. “We aim to support women’s interests in watch collecting by promoting watch appreciation as a passion and timepiece collecting as a hobby,” says Wong, who is a business development leader in the IT industry. “Our vision is to forge a gender-friendly watch community that embraces the female collector.” The bulk of TickTockBelles’ content centres on showcasing how watches, ranging…

FRENCHESCAR LIM Frenchescar Lim is a seasoned photographer who began her career in the world of magazines 18 years ago. A craftswoman at heart, she can often be found designing bespoke bikepacking gear in her atelier—yet another testament to her artistic dimensions. This issue, she captures the founders of TickTockBelles, Deborah Wong and Stephenie Soh, as they chat about setting up a women’s watchmaking platform in Singapore. JOY CORTHÉSY A talented and passionate photographer, Joy Corthésy uses her endlessly imaginative lens to stage the most beautiful watches and jewellery in an original way through photo shoots that are a visual treat for watch lovers, just like the one in this issue. OLIVIER MÜLLER Olivier Müller is a luxury journalist and consultant. He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering…

There are bejewelled timepieces—and then there is the new Astronomia Sky by Jacob & Co. One highlight is its double axis tourbillon, a mechanism that defies gravity in an almost theatrical way. The watchmaker elevates the piece with its signature one-carat Jacob-cut diamond, featuring 288 facets, and a magnesium, blue-lacquered globe, both making a full rotation every 60 seconds. But the most arresting element—and raison d’etre for this watch—is the 18-karat rose gold, hand-engraved and hand-painted red dragon with ruby eyes that encircles the movement. Sitting beneath the dragon, the rotating globes and the titanium hour and minute subdial, the dial itself is set with 202 baguette-cut, white diamonds weighing 8.32 carats—but you have to look closely. Completing the watch is an alligator strap, fastened with an 18-karat palladium folding…

Are watch collaborations a good thing for the industry? DENIS FLAGEOLLET YES “I have nothing against it. But if I have to do it myself, it really has to make sense. Beyond the commercial [aspect], there has to be something complementary between the brands. And then, if the message [the brands are trying to send out] is clear, and that is the best way to bring something to the table, then I am really not against it and open to the idea [of collaborating with a big brand].” ANTHONY DE HAAS NO “It’s a bit cheesy that a huge company in a luxury industry comes to independent watchmakers and says, ‘Oh, I [will] finance you if we make a piece together’, because the real work is done by the independent…

Naoya Hida launched his independent watch brand in 2019. The resulting timepieces, inspired by traditional Japanese aesthetics and blended with avant-garde mechanisms and designs, exhibit a combination of minimalist style and tech-savvy flair that’s reflective of contemporary Japan. Hida tells Tatler GMT about his journey from novice to pioneering watchmaker, and the challenges he has faced. How did you get into watchmaking? I joined the watch business in 1990, working for Desco von Schulthess, a Swiss trading company. In Tokyo, [such] companies were the sole agents for Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre etc. I joined as a sales representative, dealing with department stores, watch retailers and so on. At that time, Japanese customers saw watches as a status symbol, which is why we mainly saw golden bracelets with diamond watches: very classic…

In watchmaking, Dr Rebecca Struthers and her husband, Craig, are a dynamic duo who defy convention and breathe life into the timeless art of horology. With a PhD in horology, Struthers boasts a deep understanding of the intricate mechanics of timepieces, while her husband brings an artistic touch to their collaborative efforts. Together, they helm a workshop, Struthers Watchmakers, that not only stands as a testament to their shared vision but also as a bridge between tradition and innovation. While restoring watches remains the core business, Struthers Watchmakers is also one of the world’s most fascinating bespoke ateliers, with three tailor-made collections: The Carter pocket watch, The Kingsley classic wristwatch and The Kelso octagonal wristwatch. The husband-and-wife team are also currently working on their own movement, Project 248, that will…

Winston Koo has a story for every watch he owns. His love for them started with a Mickey Mouse timepiece he received at Disneyland, a seemingly ordinary souvenir that would spark an extraordinary fascination. Since then, Koo has built a collection that reflects not only the evolution of horology but also his personal journey. Once numbering in the hundreds, the selection has been refined to a smaller number of pieces that mark significant life events and embody his life philosophy. The senior director at UCP International, a leading home furnishings manufacturer in Hong Kong, admits to a preference for black watches, an appreciation for practical functionality and a dedication to unusual materials. He tells Tatler GMT about the connections between his collection, his personal experiences and his unique approach to…

In the heart of Seoul, tucked away in a modest studio, a meticulous artist transforms time into something more than minutes and seconds. Minhoon Yoo, an independent watchmaker, is redefining the boundaries of traditional horology through his unique blend of artistry and craftsmanship. “I am an artist more than a businessman,” Yoo says, his passion for watchmaking palpable as he speaks to Tatler GMT over video call. Unlike the large-scale production of luxury watch brands, Yoo’s approach is deeply personal and refreshingly unhurried. “I am a single-man studio, so I have no pressure; I can make small quantities. That’s my plan for the next 10 years,” he says, hinting at the serenity that comes with such solitude. Yoo’s journey into the world of watchmaking began during his student years at…

VIP In the contemporary realm of high-end horology, the pursuit of exceptional customer experiences has become as vital as the craftsmanship of the watches themselves. Leading brands in today’s watch world are reinventing their approach to customer service, striving to offer more than just a product, and instead providing a gateway to extraordinary experiences. This transformation is evident in decisions like Audemars Piguet shifting distribution away from wholesale partners and bringing almost 100 per cent of sales into its boutiques, gaining more control over client experiences through its sales via AP House. Other high-end brands are also streamlining their sales activities, with the aim of enhancing customer interaction and experience; indeed, the concept of experience has evolved into a cornerstone of brand loyalty. However, not all experiences offered by the…