Indholdsfortegnelse for July 2024 i Tatler GMT

As the hands of time continue their endless dance, I find myself reflecting on a journey marked by many significant firsts. Last summer, we launched Tatler GMT, and here we are, a year later, celebrating our first anniversary with this issue. That same summer we also attended our first Watches and Wonders as a team in Geneva. Since our launch, we have returned to the watch fair and released four issues, each with compelling narratives about global watch culture. This edition of Tatler GMT is thus a celebration of milestones and the ever-evolving story of timekeeping. In pages yet to be turned, we dive into the pulsating heart of the Paris Olympics, showcasing the intrinsic link between athletic excellence and Omega’s precision timekeeping. This issue also includes insightful conversations with…

Necklace watches, or pendant watches, trace their origins back to the 16th century, shortly after the invention of the spring-driven clock. The earliest portable watches, known as pocket watches, were developed around this time and were often worn around the neck by both men and women. These evolved during the 17th and 18th centuries into more decorative and fashionable items, particularly for women. They became intricately designed pieces of jewellery, often adorned with gemstones and elaborate engravings, serving both as timekeeping devices and as stylish accessories. This year at Watches and Wonders 2024, the evolution of this luxurious tradition was prominently showcased with remarkable innovations. Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Lady Kalla revisits its iconic lineage with a versatile design, featuring a watch and tassel sautoir that can be styled in four…

On a balmy evening in May, Town Club at the American in Central was abuzz with excitement as Watch Ho & Co (WH&C), a pivotal hub for horology enthusiasts, celebrated its first anniversary. Over the past year, WH&C has hosted more than 50 gatherings, each fostering deep connections among its members, prestigious watch brands and key figures in the pre-owned watch market. The evening served as a vibrant testament to the thriving community that WH&C has nurtured. More than 130 guests from across Asia—and from as far away as Dubai and Kazakhstan—gathered to celebrate this significant milestone. The highlight of the evening was a panel discussion with renowned independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, general manager of Ferdinand Berthoud Vincent Lapaire and talented Chinese indie watchmaker Logan Kuan Rao. The trio shared…

Are skinny watches back on trend? It would appear so, with record-breaking feats by two of the most ardent champions of ultra-thin watches—Bulgari and Piaget. Regardless of your position on the practice of “horological dieting”, there’s no denying the technical intrigue in flattening a wristwatch to a dimension that is less than the height of a coin, as is the case—no pun intended—with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. It surpassed the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari’s record set in 2022, to become the thinnest mechanical watch ever; thinner, in fact, than a coin. Unbelievably svelte at 1.70mm, it is 0.05mm thinner than the Richard Mille watch. It is also the thinnest watch to receive the COSC certification. While there is no denying how instrumental its brilliant R&D department and…

Van Cleef & Arpels once again used traditional métiers d’art decorative techniques for poetic storytelling this year at Watches and Wonders. How did you manage to bring jewellery crafts, as championed by the maison, to the world of watches? Métiers d’art [have been] at the heart of Van Cleef & Arpels since the early days; it’s [always been] an area that fascinated me. When I had the opportunity to join [the company] some time ago, I knew about the creations and the historical aspect of jewellery; but it’s [only] when you get to work in a workshop with the craftsmen that you start to understand what it takes, where it comes from, how complex or rich that world of craftsmanship is—and also, quite importantly, how exciting the opportunities are to…

COLLECTOR’S CORNER “My grandfathers on both sides of the family were very exploratory about the food,” says chef Christopher Ho, tracing the origins of his culinary journey, which began in the UK during his university days, when necessity transformed into passion. “I learnt how to cook everything [from] YouTube; I was at college and there was no Chinese food on the internet at the time, so all my food was more western style.” It wasn’t until his return to Hong Kong in 2016 that his culinary path truly took shape. Here, Ho immersed himself in professional kitchens, learning the rhythms and rituals that would take him from serving intimate groups to running pop-ups for more than 100 diners at a time. With the advent of Covid and the world retreating…

Known for his stunning Instagram feed of watch photos (his account, @watchstudies, boasts more than 267,000 followers), photographer Verne Ho is a go‑to resource among the watch community for tutorials on how to achieve such images. Combining his background in design and creative direction with his love of timepieces, Ho is able to bring a unique perspective to watch photography and make it more accessible for everyday enthusiasts. One of the most popular and common watch photography styles, especially on social media, is a wrist shot. “As watch owners, a wrist shot represents one of the most relatable ways you interact with your watch. It engages the audience by putting them in the shoes of the watch owner and giving them a more intimate view of what it looks and…

CAROLINE FISCHER Caroline Fischer, a passionate editorial design enthusiast and freelance graphic designer, finds her creative spark in crafting magazines and fine books. With a keen eye for marrying form and content, she creates graphic designs that not only convey meaning but also pay homage to the subject matter. Her talent shines through in this edition’s Portfolio, where she skilfully delivers a visual narrative that romanticises watches. OLIVIER MÜLLER Olivier Müller is a luxury journalist and consultant. He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics for a dozen or so magazines and specialist websites in Europe. He is also a regular speaker at events, and the author of several reference books. For this issue, he delves into the the latest material innovations by Audemars Piguet. ANANDHI GOPINATH…

ARNOLD & SON The new Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium watches pay tribute to late English watchmaker John Arnold and his work in marine chronometers, which are specialised timekeepers for calculating longitude at sea. The curves and profile of the 42.5mm titanium case are inspired by the design of contemporary sailing boats; this version with a dial crafted in Kingsand gold is limited to 88 pieces. The sandy golden shade references the eponymous beach in Cornwall, where Arnold was born. BAUME & MERCIER Known for its classic and elegant aesthetic, Baume & Mercier’s Classima collection welcomed three new references in cool and contemporary colours. One of them is the Classima 10782, an automatic chronograph featuring a sand-coloured sunburst dial with anthracite accents in a 42mm polished stainless steel case. To…

Luxury sports watches stand out not only for their robust engineering and sophisticated aesthetics but also for their storied pasts, each intertwined with pivotal moments in human history. From being submerged in the profound depths of the ocean to navigating the vast expanse of space, these watches have not merely kept time but have also been integral to adventures that define the modern era. Let’s explore. Our journey begins in 1953, with the birth of the Rolex Submariner. This wasn’t just any timepiece; it was a revolution in stainless steel, meticulously engineered to conquer the ocean, with its water resistance initially going down to 100 metres, a figure that would later be enhanced to an impressive 300 metres. The Submariner was first introduced as a direct response to the growing demand…

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, Tatler GMT caught up with Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Studio, as he showcased the maison’s latest collection at the watch fair. Chastaingt has been at the forefront of Chanel’s shift towards crafting its own movements, having introduced five innovative calibres since his arrival in 2016. His notable contributions include Calibre 1 for the Monsieur watch in 2016, Calibre 2 for the Première Camélia Skeleton in 2017, Calibre 3 for the Boy.Friend Skeleton in 2018, Calibre 3.1 for the J12 X-Ray watch in 2020, and Calibre 5 for the J12 Tourbillon Diamond watch in 2022. The highlight of our discussion was Chanel’s unveiling of their latest Couture O’Clock Collection, which pays homage to the maison’s fashion heritage and its founder’s deep connection…

If you’re looking to elevate your chronograph wristwatch game, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope fulfils that wish perfectly—particularly these models created for the Olympic Games Paris 2024. But first, a quick history lesson. The Speedmaster Chronoscope is based on the Omega chronographs of the 1940s that featured three “snail” timing scales. These scales were precisely what made the Chronoscope stand out—the watch could measure speed (tachymeter), distance from something visible and audible (telemeter), and heart rate (pulsometer). The Chronoscope has since been updated for the present-day fan with new materials and calibres. On the occasion of Paris 2024, Omega, which has been the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games since 1932, recently added two new references to the range: a stainless steel model with an anodised aluminium bezel, and an 18-karat…

Early wristwatches for men were modest in size, as small as 30mm at the turn of the 20th century and did not commonly exceed 39mm until the 1980s. This period saw large watches become a status symbol, emblematic of the era known for its unabashed excess and the rise of the yuppie. Like fashion fads, watch trends ebb and flow, and modest case sizes measuring 40mm and less are back in favour. Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetuals and Patek Philippe Calatravas in 36mm are highly sought after at auctions, while delicate Cartier Tanks are a hot commodity in the pre-owned market. Brands have also taken notice and are producing new novelties in wrist-friendlier proportions. We love how these watches look on the wrist—refined, minimalist, and best of all, elegant. It’s quiet…

Meet the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar with a calendar reading that’s accurate until the year 3999. This astounding invention is mechanically programmed to take into account the complex nuances of the Gregorian calendar. Years in the Gregorian calendar divisible by four are counted as leap years, meaning a 29th day must be added to the end of February. There is, however, an additional correction required to keep the calendar in sync with the actual solar year. Only centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years; all others are common years. For instance, 2000 and 2400 are leap years, while 2100, 2200, and 2300 are common years. The perpetual calendar is calibrated for a four-year cycle, which means three common years are always followed by a leap…

Tell us about the first watch you owned. It was a Flik Flak that my parents bought me for my fourth birthday—I remember it had a big impact on me as a child. It’s funny, because last year they made a re-edition of it, and I immediately bought it for my daughter. She is now three and likes it very much too. What was the first timepiece you created? The very first piece I created was not a wristwatch, but an automaton called the Tortoise. I dedicated two full years of my savings to create it. It was an intense experience [during which] I conceived, designed and handcrafted the 352 components it is comprised of. When did you discover your passion for the craft of horology, and how did you…

Watches and Wonders is one of the most prestigious events in the world of horology, a stage where innovation meets tradition and every new introduction is a testament to masterful craftsmanship. In the midst of this grand spectacle, Tatler GMT seized a unique opportunity to speak with Philippe Delhotal, the creative director of Hermès Horloger. The focus of our conversation was Hermès’s very first grand complication, the Arceau Duc Attelé, a landmark achievement that not only highlights the brand’s deep commitment to horological excellence but also positions Hermès as a formidable player in the complex arena of luxury watchmaking. Can you share the creative process behind the new grand complication launched at Watches and Wonders, the Arceau Duc Attelé watch? The creative process at Hermès involves interpreting existing…

Ever imagined what a lightsabre would look like if it were a timepiece? The creative minds at Urwerk apparently did. The result is the SpaceTime Blade: it tells not just the time, but also the distance travelled by the Earth around the Sun. Employing traditional techniques, from lost-wax casting applied to bronze to retro Nixie bulb lighting by Dalibor Farny, the 1.7m-high instrument is mostly encased in a tall glass dome created in Unesco Heritage-listed “Crystal Valley” in the Czech Republic. Stacked vertically, the eight Nixie bulbs glow the time (hours, minutes, seconds, as well as 1/10th and 1/100th of a second) and the distance of the Earth’s rotation and revolution in kilometres. The name of this illuminating ornament is taken from the UR-100 SpaceTime wristwatch, which performs almost similar…