Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2024 i Tatler GMT

Let me start this note with a quote from Karl Lagerfeld: “Fashion is a language that creates itself in clothes to interpret reality.” I find this to be especially true as I reflect on my journey into the world of style and horology. I still vividly remember my first day as an editorial intern, stepping into the bustling office of a men’s fashion magazine. I was tasked with researching the latest watch releases and, as I immersed myself in the intricate details of each piece, I discovered something profound: watches are not just tools for telling time; they are powerful expressions of personal style. I found myself intrigued by how a beautifully crafted timepiece could transform an outfit, adding a layer of sophistication and individuality that words could not convey.…

Asymmetric Dials With their unexpected shapes, these watches will help you think out of the box While symmetry has long been the norm in watch design, a growing number of brands are embracing its opposite to create visually striking timepieces. This trend can be traced back to the post-war period of the 1950s and Sixties, when watchmakers and jewellers like Gilbert Albert and Andrew Grima experimented with unconventional case shapes and dial layouts. More recently, independent brands have pushed the boundaries of asymmetry even further. The MB&F HM3 and Urwerk UR-120 featuring daring case shapes and unconventional time displays are important examples. Even established brands like Audemars Piguet have embraced asymmetry, as seen in the brutalist [Re] Master02, which reinterprets a 1960s model with a faceted case and mosaic dial.…

Vacheron Constantin’s exhibition in June 2024, Eternal Connections: Metalworks Unveiled, held in Hong Kong, is a poignant celebration of traditional craftsmanship, showcasing the profound bond between master Liu Wing Sheung, one of the last remaining metal casters in the region, and his apprentice, Fanson Lam. This event not only highlights their artistic journey but also underscores the importance of preserving age-old techniques in a rapidly modernising world. Master Liu, who began his apprenticeship in 1962, has witnessed the decline of traditional casting in Hong Kong. He reflects on this loss with a heavy heart, saying, “The term ‘casting’ has gradually been forgotten in Hong Kong and this industry has essentially disappeared. Many young people today are unfamiliar with how significant pieces like the Big Buddha were created.” As one of…

CONVERSATION Louis Cartier produced the maison’s first wristwatch in 1904, for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont; today, nearly 120 years later, the maison continues to innovate with every collection it unveils. Its latest offerings at this year’s Watches and Wonders are a clear reflection of this enduring legacy of combining reinvention and tradition. Tatler GMT sat down with Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s image, style and heritage director, to dig into how the iconic designs of the early 20th century still pulse at the heart of the maison’s modern creations, proving that true style never ages, it only evolves. How are Cartier’s 20th century designs reflected in this year’s novelties at Watches and Wonders? The choices that were made in terms of type of shapes [in the early 20th century] were linked to…

The Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater is such a beautiful watch, and showcases a contemporary design while also paying tribute to Moser’s signature style. How difficult is it to balance these two elements? Thank you! We like to say that Moser is a bridge between traditional and modern watchmaking. In every product, we reinterpret this. For the minute repeater, we took inspiration from old pocket minute repeaters with the movement at the back and an enamel dial. Here, we decided to create an enamel dial with a modern steel integrated bracelet, almost sporty, with water resistance of 5 ATM [50 metres], which is unique for a minute repeater. The enamel itself is also very modern. It’s about understanding what it means to be traditional and modern, and then mixing these elements…

Fed Tan’s journey into the world of watches began in his childhood in the Philippines, where he was born and raised in a Chinese family. Today, he is well known as the founder of the media and communications firm Advisory Council, which deals with fashion and luxury brands including watches, but his initial fascination with horology was sparked by a timepiece belonging to his father. “I wouldn’t say that my family was into watches or anything,” he recalls, “but I would say when I was growing up, I just remember my dad had this Cartier Tank watch that I always kept seeing and then I ended up breaking it.” Little did he know, this early encounter would lead to a lifelong passion for horology. After studying at New York University,…

STEVEN ROGERS Steven Rogers is a senior editor at online watch publication WorldTempus. He has worked in watchmaking for over a decade, first as a communications consultant, then as a brand communications manager, before becoming a watch journalist. His skill lies in breaking down the world of complicated watchmaking and making it accessible to all. In this issue, Rogers reports on the intriguing world of preowned watches. ANANDHI GOPINATH A passionate writer with wide-ranging interests, Anandhi Gopinath covers the luxury lifestyle scene with a nuanced take on what discerning audiences look for when it comes to the good life. She writes primarily on watches, wheels and whiskies, but will never say no to a good story. For Tatler GMT, she discusses the bold, innovative shapes of contemporary watches. DAVID CHOKRON…

For nearly a decade, watch brands have been hitting rewind and reviving iconic designs. Are they running low on fresh ideas and stuck in a creative rut? Not at all. By riding the nostalgia wave, watchmakers are capitalising on earlier triumphs, rejuvenating their collections and crafting compelling stories that resonate with today’s audience. SECOND LIFE Take Tag Heuer, for example. The reintroduction of the Monaco in 2003 and the Carrera in 2004—now key staples for the brand—demonstrates that revisiting classic styles can be highly effective when adapted for contemporary tastes. A case in point is a standout piece from Tag Heuer this year, a gold version of the Carrera Skipper that first debuted in steel in 1968. Similarly, Blancpain revived its legendary Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch in 2003, with the…

Tony Ma is not your typical vintage watch collector. An introvert by nature, he has largely shunned the limelight, preferring the quietude of his collection over the bustling gatherings of watch enthusiasts. But he agreed to speak to Tatler GMT on the subject of vintage Patek Philippes, sharing his unique perspective. “I really like the [TV] show Mad Men,” he says. “I really love that period. So when I think about or romanticise it, I wonder what kind of watches important figures would buy back in the day. They would probably buy a simple Patek Philippe, not a really extravagant, super-complicated watch.” This sentiment encapsulates his approach to collecting—an appreciation for understated elegance and timeless design. Ma’s love for watches began during his two decades in Canada, a place he…

2000 Lange 1 features its first tourbillon A Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 gets its first complication: the tourbillon, marking one of the final designs by Günter Blümlein. Chanel premieres the J12 The fashion house makes an entry into haute horlogerie with the J12, inspired by yacht racing. 2001 Ulysse Nardin unleashes the Freak The timepiece takes the watch world by storm. Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards its first gongs Vacheron Constantin takes home the Aguille d’Or Grand Prix for the Lady Kalla. Harry Winston launches the Opus series Overseen by Max Büsser, the Opus 1 drew inspiration from partner FP Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance. 2002 Audemars Piguet unveils the first Royal Oak Concept The inaugural endeavour, featuring an Alacrite 602 case—an alloy once reserved for aerospace—opens a…

ICON 2005 was a year full of explosive beginnings. K-pop began its ascent to global prominence, with groups like TVXQ and Super Junior starting to gain traction. In the world of technology, Japan was making headlines with the launch of the Sony PlayStation Portable (PSP), a handheld gaming console that would redefine mobile gaming. On the silver screen, Initial D, a movie based on the popular manga and anime series, was released, igniting a renewed interest in street racing culture across Asia. The Shanghai World Expo preparations began, signalling China’s growing influence on the global stage. Against this dynamic backdrop, at the other end of the world, Jean-Claude Biver was preparing to launch a new watch that would make waves in the luxury timepiece market: the Hublot Big Bang. The…

In the heart of Paris’ most prestigious square, Chopard has unveiled a new jewel in its crown—not a timepiece or diamond necklace, but an exclusive hotel that seeks to redefine luxury hospitality by offering a unique blend of historical charm and contemporary elegance that caters to the most discerning travellers. Named after its famous address among many other luxury watch and jewellery boutiques, 1, Place Vendôme is nestled in an 18th century hôtel particulier (French for a historic private mansion or townhouse) and officially opened in November last year. Notably, the Chopard brand is not in the name of the hotel, despite it being the company’s first hotel project, nor did Chopard actively promote the news of the opening. The unveiling was quietly and selectively shared; similarly, its location, despite…

AGATE TO HEAVEN The latest Sweet Alhambra watch by Van Cleef & Arpels features a guilloché yellow gold case complemented by blue agate. This Swiss quartz watch is crafted through a process that includes careful stone selection and precise gem-setting, with the motifs arranged in a beaded setting. With its unique materials and thoughtful construction, the Sweet Alhambra watch is a stylish choice for those who value artistry and functionality in their timepieces. Van Cleef & Arpels Sweet Alhambra watch with guilloché yellow gold and blue agate Style Tip: Wear with neutral outfits to let the 18-karat yellow gold case and blue agate dial take centre stage. Complement the timepiece with gold accessories and blue accents for a look that transitions seamlessly from day to night. COCO CALLING The…

WHO TO KNOW With a shape reminiscent of Cartier’s Crash and Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, and a touch of Salvador Dalí’s magic, the uniquely designed Mirage was a sensation upon its release. Designer Sylvain Berneron also garnered considerable attention. The haute horlogerie community was quickly impressed by this bright talent, whose design credentials were established not only through his work at Breitling but also with his independent eponymous brand, Berneron. His career trajectory—from automotive design at BMW to leading creative projects at Breitling and eventually running his own brand—demonstrates his versatility, innovative spirit and challenge to traditional watchmaking norms. Growing up in France, Berneron was immersed in a culture that celebrated precision and design. His early fascination with timepieces led him to pursue a formal education in industrial design at the…

In the wake of Richemont’s recent leadership reshuffle, the luxury watch and jewellery landscape continues to evolve at a breakneck pace. LVMH, not to be outdone, has announced its own series of high-profile appointments, further intensifying the competition between these two luxury powerhouses. The latest moves by LVMH underscore the group’s commitment to strengthening its position in haute horlogerie. In a surprising turn of events, Ricardo Guadalupe is stepping down as CEO of Hublot after 12 years at the helm, transitioning to the role of honorary chairman, effective September 1. Guadalupe’s tenure at Hublot spans an impressive 20 years, during which he played a crucial role in shaping the brand’s identity and success. Julien Tornare, who recently took the reins at Tag Heuer, will lead Hublot as its new CEO.…

The luxury watch market is currently facing a troubling rise in thefts, compelling owners to enhance their insurance coverage to protect their valuable possessions. As high-end timepieces become increasingly desirable, criminal elements have adapted, targeting affluent individuals and watch retailers in urban centres around the globe. According to a study by luxury watch e-commerce portal Watchfinder & Co, in 2022 London was a major hotspot for luxury watch thefts, with more than 6,000 watches stolen, and a staggering £4 million in losses from just 300 incidents between April and September, as reported by Evening Standard in the UK. This trend is not limited to London; cities like Paris, Geneva and Zurich are also experiencing a surge in watch-related crimes. For instance, Paris saw a 31 per cent increase in luxury…

This June, on one of his visits to Hong Kong to unveil the new Dragon Masterpieces from Chopard’s LUC Collection, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the co-president of the brand, shared his vision for its creations. The Dragon Masterpieces represent not just a continuation of the maison’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship but also a celebration of diverse cultures, particularly through the use of the traditional Japanese urushi lacquer technique. In a dialogue with Tatler GMT, Scheufele’s insights reveal a deep respect for the artistry involved in watchmaking and a passion for storytelling that is embedded in each piece. The dragon watch completes the Urushi collection, Chopard’s range of timepieces featuring the Japanese urushi lacquer technique. What story did you want to tell through this piece? When we started the Urushi theme, over 12…

At 9.20am precisely on August 16, Anya Taylor-Joy, the global ambassador for Jaeger-LeCoultre, made time for a 20-minute chat with Tatler GMT, despite being in the middle of a photoshoot. Though her agenda was packed, the 28-year-old actress exuded warmth and genuine enthusiasm during our video call. As our conversation unfolded, it became clear that her punctuality and outlook on life embody the values of the Swiss watchmaker she endorses. The award-winning The Queen’s Gambit and Furiosa actor spoke about being a third-culture kid, time travel, and how she secured her place as a standout star in an industry where success doesn’t come easy. Tell us about that turning point or moment in your life when you felt everything just fell in place in your career? Oh, my God, it…

Have you ever ruined a silk blouse or woollen sweater because your watch’s clasp or case caught on the delicate fabric? If so, you’re not alone. Lung Lung Thun, a watch whisperer and style savant, has been there too—more times than she cares to admit. Picking the right timepiece to complement your outfit can sometimes feel like a game of fashion roulette. Do you go bold with a statement piece or keep it sleek and subtle? And what about that pesky cool-versus-warm-tone dilemma? Thun knows that while a flashy watch can make you feel like a million bucks, practicality is the unsung hero of style. Take a leaf out of her notebook. What key factors do you consider when choosing a watch to match your outfit? I check whether my…

ONE LAST TIME The Prague Astronomical Clock, also known as the Orloj, is a remarkable piece of mediaeval engineering and design. Installed in 1410 at the Old Town Hall, it remains the oldest functioning astronomical clock in the world. Crafted by master clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň and astronomer Jan Šindel, the Orloj’s intricate mechanisms include an astronomical dial, a calendar dial and moving statues of the Twelve Apostles, the primary disciples of Jesus. The astronomical dial showcases the positions of the Sun and Moon, zodiac signs and detailed astrological information. Below it, the calendar dial displays the day and month. The clock’s façade, adorned with Gothic sculptures and carvings, exemplifies mediaeval artistry. Each hour from 9am to 11pm, two windows above the clock open to reveal a procession of the…